How justified is the use of additional reins today? Opinions among horsemen on this issue vary. Some believe that aids are indispensable when working with young horses or when training inexperienced riders, others believe that extra “ropes” lead to bad habits in the horse, and in the hands of a layman can be harmful or even dangerous for the horse. So is the game worth the candle?
The knot will tie...
Any auxiliary reins are designed to make training easier for both the rider and the horse. The simplest devices that will make the horse lower his head and neck and relax his back are tie-downs, which are "elastic bands" or leather belts with rubber inserts. They help to teach the horse to hold the reins, neck and head, to develop balance, to move in correct gaits, therefore they are mainly used for work in the hands or on the lunge. At first, do not fix the horse's head rigidly, so as not to suppress the desire to move forward. Then, as the horse begins to take the reins, the reins can be shortened. When working on side reins, one should remember that hard, non-stretch side reins are harmful to the horse's mouth and dull its sensitivity. In addition, it is worth bearing in mind the certain danger of using this tool under the top. Everyone has probably seen horses in the rental under the saddle and in interchanges - it is believed that in this way it is easier for a beginner to cope with a horse that is "badly behaving". However, nervous animals can even roll over at interchanges, and such cases, alas, are not uncommon. That is why interchanges are considered a strict type of equipment. The head of the animal is fixed to a certain limit, that is, the horse cannot stretch its neck and thus support itself when jumping or falling, therefore, if it stumbles or slips at the junctions at a fast gait, it will fly by inertia into the ground.
With the precision of a pianist
The rein, or sliding rein, has a less severe effect on the horse than the reins. Sliding reins can be leather, cord, or a combination; they are attached to the girth, then passed through the snaffle rings and fixed in the rider's hands in the same way as a bit rein. It is very important to be able to work correctly with a groove. Sliding reins help to “soften up” the horse if he is pushing too hard and holding his head like an axe. If the horse “lays down on the rein”, “leaves behind it”, then the design is good, when the girth from the girth passes through the ears, then through the snaffle and to the hand.
Shprunt - good remedy, but only in competent hands, they need to constantly work: recruit, dismiss, fix ideal moments. In “dead” hands with a tongue, you can “drive the horse by the reins” in a week, and then fix it for a very long time. Thus, it is best to work with this tool under the supervision of a trainer. If the rider is literate and there is a problem with collection, a slip rein will help solve it, however, if the problem is that the horse is not pulling down, it is better to lunge on a properly fitted chambon.
To have muscles, like an antique sculpture
The main task of chambon is to strengthen the shoulders, neck and back of the horse through the involvement in work. the right muscles. Chambon is designed to relax the back and improve the work of the buttocks, and it also helps to balance the animal. Chambons are either solid or combined (rubber + leather (or braid)) and are used only when working on a lunge. The reins pass through the rings on the neck strap and are attached to the snaffle ring. Chambon holds the horse's head at a certain height, which relaxes the neck and lower back and "rocks" them, but it must be used very carefully. You can work with champon only for a limited time and give a strictly dosed load. It should also be remembered that they do not begin to drive at a gallop on a chambon far from immediately. Chambon work is long and painstaking: it is important to tighten the reins correctly (when the horse moves correctly, they should sag freely) and it is better, again, to resort to the help of a trainer.
Room for Maneuver
Both chambon and gog are used when working on the lunge, but if chambon is suitable for developing the muscles of the back and neck of the horse when working only on the lunge, then the latter performs the same functions also under the saddle. Gog allows the horse to relax and lower the neck, putting extra pressure on the horse's poll. Gog can be put on a horse in two ways, so it is more versatile. The design of the gog is similar to chambon, but the ropes are not attached to the snaffle, but are passed through snaffle rings. When working on a lunge, ropes with carabiners at the ends cling to the belt ring, which then goes to the girth. When working under the saddle, the ropes are attached to the reins, however, it is not recommended to work with one rein and it is best to fasten another rein to the snaffle rings. Gog is usually used when teaching horseback riding for beginners, inexperienced riders, when working on a lunge dragging horses, for animals with a heavily loaded, “heavy” front. At the beginning of work with chambon and gog, it is recommended to fit them loosely enough so that the horse gets used to the new equipment. Chambon and gog allow you to strengthen certain muscle groups of the horse without stiffening the rest of the musculature, which makes their use more preferable than junctions and sheets.
Perfect balance
The Todeman rein, or balancing rein, is used when working with young horses, helping the animal to lower the neck and create an even emphasis on the reins. Todeman's rein is, in fact, a mixture of a martingale and a sliding rein, only the rider has one rein in his hands, which is fixed in three positions by refastening the carabiners. It is very easy to “pull” a young horse with a sliding rein (as a result, the horse goes over the reins), so it is not advisable to use it. The balancing reins have a softer effect and at the same time give the horse a rounded and elevated position, the horse's muscles are activated, and the movements become freer. However, a soft hand is also important when handling the Todeman rein. Balancing the occasion is a very reasonable, logical and at the same time gentle means. Unlike a tongue, it can be given into the hands of even an inexperienced rider.
"Candles" fight!
With a martingale, you can jump and work the entire workout. It does not fix the horse's head rigidly, just slightly limits its position. In addition to the fact that the martingale does not allow the head to be lifted (including when the horse is frightened and suffered something), it prevents the "glow", it also prevents the rider's hands from improperly affecting the horse's mouth. Excessive raising of hands occurs not only in beginners, but also in more experienced athletes, for example, when entering an obstacle. Martingales are mainly made of leather with rings of small and large diameters: the smaller the diameter, the stricter the martingale and the stronger the effect on the horse. The martingale is put on as follows: a girth is passed through one end and then tightened, and a rein is passed through the rings. Of the minuses of the martingale, it can be noted that it does not carry any training purpose and is not a 100% panacea for the possible whims of the horse. In addition, the martingale can interfere with good contact with the horse's mouth.
Not sure - don't overtake
Does the horse (or rider) need additional reins? Firstly, it depends on what the horse is used for: if it’s just for a pleasant pastime, it’s unlikely, if you have serious sports ambitions, you can’t do without auxiliary equipment, because the horse itself, alas, will not do anything, and it needs to help to some extent. In addition to special devices for working with a horse, a person has come up with a lot of tools to help achieve the goal faster and more efficiently. Today, athletes have at their disposal a lot of ultra-modern simulators that simulate various loads, weather conditions, and even create virtual reality! The situation is similar with the training of a horse: if a horse is needed for oneself, for the soul, it can be prepared in this way - go to the fields, drive on a lunge. However, if you need an athlete, an athlete, then various adaptations are needed to properly build and strengthen muscles. The main thing is an individual approach to each horse and attentiveness when working with additional reins, because if you try hard, you can harm anything and “pump up” the horse’s mouth so that you can’t hold it with any hands. Therefore, if you are not very confident in your abilities, it is better not to experiment and trust a professional.
This article is about devices that are made and used to lower a horse's head. All of them have the same function - they limit the height to which the horse can raise his head, and force the animal to solve the problem - how to cope with the pressure they create.
For my part, I am convinced that it is necessary to look for other methods of influence, not to achieve a mechanical lowering of the head into the desired position, but to stretch and lengthen the neck, which causes the horse to stretch and raise the back. This is what makes her "liberated" ...
The attachments only work on the front of the horse - the hindquarters can work normally.
Devices can be defined as any piece of equipment worn on a horse, other than the usual saddle and bridle with a snaffle or headband with a mouthpiece, or as "tackle items that affect the horse mechanically", as opposed to controls. I like the second definition better, although its boundaries are fuzzy. In some cases, something that is not in the "composition" of a simple bridle and saddle may benefit the horse, but is not intended to be directly "used" by the rider, such as snaffle stabilizers ("bibs"), which prevent the snaffle ring from getting into the horse's mouth when pulling gnawed in the mouth.
So, let's look at the most common auxiliary controls.
Sliding reins (reins)
The most talked about aid used in dressage is the sliding reins. On German they are called Schlaufzugel (loop reins) and, jokingly, Schlafzugel (sleeping reins). No other device is abused as often. Some riders, in principle, cannot imagine their work without them.
Shprunt - the simplest device. These are just two long reins that are attached at one end to the girth between the horse's legs, or on the sides. From there they, passing through the rings of the snaffle on both sides, return to the hands of the rider. The fixed length between the girth, snaffle and arms prevents the horse from lifting its head or sticking its nose out further than the bridle will allow.
The sling is used for a variety of purposes. Many riders use it as last resort in the fight against acceleration and spacing. It is believed by some to help prevent mishaps at the beginning of a horse's training in air changes. However, most riders use the tongue because they are unable to get contact from their horses, or in memory of the times when their horse ran with its head up due to lack of balance or other difficulties. Why do I find sheet piles unacceptable? Will explain…
Power and capture
The sliding function of the bridle and the fact that it is attached in two places (below and behind) opposite to the direction the horse wants to move its head (up and out) makes its action many times stronger than that of a simple rein. Working with a simple rein, the horse can raise his head, while the length of the rein from hand to mouth remains unchanged. To overcome the resistance of the horse, the rider must pull his head, lowering his hands down (see photo on the right). Without the necessary skills, he will not succeed. Thus, the tongue is an instrument of power, not of cooperation and trust. He will easily make an incredulous horse with back pain, racing with his neck and head up, obedient ...
But what do sliding reins actually do? Are they good and safe?
Head positions possible with a certain length of reins.
The active splint pulls the snaffle down and in, in a direction between the girth attachment and the rider's arms. It becomes a trap for the horse. There is room to move inside the restraint, but not in the right direction - front-down-out, and the horse can twist his neck back (green position). She may also clench her neck and raise her head (red position) in an attempt to ease the action of the iron.
In order for the horse to relax the jaw and the back of the head and stretch the neck forward-down-outward as we would like, the rider needs to increase the length of the sliding reins, but bridlers usually do not do this, preferring to pull on themselves and shorten the frame. Problems also arise from the insensitive hands of the riders, who are reluctant to soften and give and rarely do it on time. It is difficult to release the sliding rein while maintaining contact with the mouth through the regular rein. At best, the horse is tucked in with a drawstring when it sticks out its nose, and dropped when it softens its jaw. But after all, one should strive to naturally relax the horse, and not fight it!
A horse tied with a string.
It is also undesirable to use a sheet as a safety net, since ideally it is necessary to be able to change the length of the horse's neck and encourage him to periodically stretch forward-down-out during the entire training. A loose line that comes into play when the horse sticks out its nose, affects it and when it pulls forward-down-out. In such a situation, the rider should change the length of the line whenever he allows the horse to lower his head, shorten it by asking him to raise his head. Otherwise, the long sheet would not do any work!
Initiation of deflection
You will not be able to lower the head of the stargazing horse by pulling the reins down - it will resist. But she will also begin to struggle with the downward pressure of the tongue. The normal rein does not serve to lower the horse's head. It is needed to relax her jaw and tongue so that the horse itself pulls its neck forward.
The vertebral column of a horse, bent due to a reflex awakened by the action of a sliding rein.
The tightened tongue has on abdominal muscles horses the same effect as in rollkur - they are reduced, the nuchal ligament is stretched, the topline is shortened. The bottom of the S-curve is pushed forward and you end up with a horse with a sagging back. At the same time, the increased pressure on the tongue causes tightness in the jaw and occiput, which causes the same tension in the topline as when working with a raised head. Whether the horse lifts its head itself or fights with the tongue - the effect will be the same, since it depends on the same reflex.
"Elastic bands"
The horse's neck is broken at the third vertebra.
They have a mechanical effect and at the same time they cannot be adjusted directly during the ride. Elastic bands are attached to the girth and go through the snaffle rings up to the back of the head. This device does not go to the hands of the rider.
The rubber bands are elastic and therefore can invite the horse to contact. Their main disadvantage is that they are not adjustable by the rider - they cannot be softened and released to reward the horse or allow him to fully stretch. Rubber bands do not teach a horse anything other than lowering its head. Their use relieves the rider of the need to hold and manipulate the tongue. But the fact that the rubber bands have a mechanical effect and do nothing to help the rider "talk" to the horse speaks against them.
Too short rubber bands.
The elastic bands stretch and lengthen so that the horse can stretch forward-downward-outward, but only if they are not too short. However, if you adjust them loosely enough, they will not prevent a stubborn horse from shortening his neck and lifting it. In defense of the rubber bands, all I can say is that the horse can use them to calm the snaffle in the mouth if the rider has restless hands. The hard, steady pressure of the horse is more pleasant than jerking from sag to tension and back again. The horse can lower his head and lock the snaffle in his mouth using the elasticity of the rubber bands.
Side reins (interchanges)
Decoupling with rubber rings-shock absorbers.
In the Spanish School of Riding, interchanges are traditionally used when working on the lunge and on the reins. My opinion is that instead of longing the horse in the crossovers, provoking him to fight with them or move behind the vertical, hide from the snaffle or learn to hang on it so that it stops rattling on the teeth, it is better to spend time working on the reins or just by hand. Much more can be done by putting only a bridle on the horse and working with him in his hands on a line located at a distance of a meter from the wall of the arena, bending and working on stretching at the walk. Bending and shoulder-in at the walk are often more beneficial than trotting at crossovers.
Reversals only force the horse to turn its head inward.
Some riders claim that they can straighten the horse only by lunging in the crossovers. They shorten the inside halfway to get a curve in line with the path of the circle and then lunge the horse. But the reins cannot feel the horse's straightness/curvature, cannot move on both sides of the horse with the horse's legs, or soften to allow the horse to stretch. They can only fix the head. I have seen many horses after such work: they are twisted - overbent on the inside, with the shoulders dropped out, and their hips move along the inside path closer to the center than in front.
Do not fix the horse's head! Shoulder in in your hands on the volt, then on the reins, and work your horseback on rhythm, relaxation, contact, and schwung (momentum) before you start working on straightness. occasion, forcefully lowering her head.
Reinings do not improve the horse's stretching skills, but rather train him to hold a certain position of the neck and jaw and drop down the withers.
They fix the distance between the mouth and a point on the girth or edge. The horse can resist this in many ways - shortening the neck, twisting, etc. To force the horse to "get on the bit" using the reins, you need to be an expert in lunging - moving the horse forward and releasing pressure frequently so as not to provoke cramps caused by resistance. The horse should listen to you perfectly. So what's the point of using junctions then? If the horse is well trained and you know how to manage it properly, then why not work it on the reins or under the saddle?
The horse in the photo is well trained. The junctions on it seem too short. On the step, she is bent and twisted. She arches her neck during the piaffe, but does not engage her hindquarters enough, her hind legs are raised higher than her forelegs, the reins are long enough (although I would like to see a longer neck). Yes, interchanges can be helpful during very short reprises in exercises that require a high degree of collection. But they can teach the horse to avoid contact by hiding behind the reins.
Rubber rings dangle up and down.
Using reins to shorten the horse is counterproductive - the horse will soon learn to strain against the action of the unyielding ropes attached to the bit.
The side reins also block the movement of the head and neck at the walk and canter, leaving the trot the only gait at which they can be used. During the trot, the rubber rings on the interchanges begin to rock them up and down, and they weigh much more than the reins. The only thing that helps the horse to evade this rather unpleasant influence on the rein is to lean hard on it.
Reinforcements block the stretch and encourage the horse to pull his head to his chest.
Problems also arise if the horse stumbles, loses balance, plays along on the lunge: the fixed leather tie hits the horse in the mouth with the same force with which he jerks his head. This traumatizes the horse's mouth, making it less sensitive. The horse gradually becomes stiff.
Some people think that side work can teach the horse "correct contact". If they mean that the rider must be able to hold the reins at a fixed length for a long time and that the horse must constantly adapt to it, then the reins can help. But if "correct contact" means to you that the horse is reaching for the reins, that the rider can adjust the length of the reins to influence the work of the horse's hindquarters and back, to reward him, to allow him to stretch, to raise and lower his head, while maintaining the same pressure in occasion, then interchanges can teach the horse to ignore the rider's hands, not to "mess around" with them.
The reins cannot properly position the nape of the horse. It is possible to make one halfway shorter than the other, but by lunging you will not be able to control the condition of the horse - whether it is bent at the shoulders, in the middle of the neck, or in the correct position.
The main problem with interchanges is the lack of control. You cannot control their length from the opposite end of the lunge, nor can you control the horse's shoulder or bend. You cannot instantly soften or shorten them. If you can't attach them to the primer, can't find the lightest rubber rings, can't loosen the decouplings long enough, and can't ride neatly, then why do you need them?
Balancing rein (Todeman's reins)
Todeman's reins are semi-sliding reins that an unskilled rider can use without holding extra straps. They are attached to the girth, pass through the snaffle rings and are attached to the sides of the reins.
Some riders praise this device as being gentle on the horse. The reins only work until the horse has his head in the correct position, and then automatically loosens.
Todeman's rein advocates don't realize that they can't get the horse's head in the right position just by locking it in place with force. Correct position The head is achieved by activating the hindquarters, resulting in a lift in the back and front and a natural rounding of the neck!
Metal rings for fastening.
You can, of course, ask, why then at all a reason !? Why don't riders ride without reins when it's so damn simple? Because first "the back of the head should relax, and the position of the head under the influence of the snaffle on the jaw should approach the vertical." This is the work of the hands if the horse is on the bit. Hands are asking: "Please relax your jaw, surrender the back of your head, stretch your neck, and I will give you a rein if you do this."
The horse's head must be free, and we must independently control it, reacting in time to everything that happens to it. We must feel the horse's mouth, relax it if it is tight. And here we will be helped not by reins of a fixed length, each time pulling the horse's head down, but by training.
Todeman's reins add weight to the usual reins. They not only forcefully fix the position of the horse's head and create tension in his neck, but also add discomfort to his mouth, constantly affecting the snaffle during movement.
Elastic adapters on the reins
These are reins with a ring at the end and an elastic section - an insert in the middle that allows them to stretch a little. Behind the insert is a leather section of the rein, so the stretch is limited (2-3 cm).
Such reins are used by riders who cannot create and maintain elastic, lively contact based on the horse's feel and cushioning, whose hands are not independent of the horse's movements and their own seat.
Unfortunately, they won't help in the long run.
If you use these inserts, they will provide contact elasticity for you, and you will not correct and progress. Your hands will be restless - you will constantly pull on the reins, as the elastic inserts will automatically correct you. This way you will not learn to feel the soft chewing of the horse on the bit.
Chambon and Gogh
Gog looks like chambon, but additionally passes through the snaffle rings to the main belt.
Gogh and Chambon are much more complex than sheet pile and work through a system of blocks. They are designed to work on the lunge and encourage the horse to reach forward and down, but many people use these devices when working in the hands and on horseback. I do not understand why riders prefer to mask their inability with the action of "ropes".
Chambon in action.
Chambon works satisfactorily when used for its intended purpose - on the lunge. This is the only device that allows the horse to fully stretch forward and down.
Chambon is very simple. You will need a lead to attach the main strap (blue) (if you don't have one, use a saddle and girth). A short strap (green) is attached to the occipital strap of the bridle. At each end of the strap there is a ring (yellow) through which the cord (red) passes from the attachment to the snaffle.
Chambon parts.
Chambon is included in the work, as soon as the horse raises his head and exposes his nose, his cords are pulled. The distance to the raised head (nape) becomes longer than in the relaxed state, and the exposed nose also uses its part of the cord. The cord puts pressure on the mouth and also pushes down on the top strap. Any attempt to move the head in the right direction is instantly rewarded. If the nose goes back to the vertical, and especially if the back of the head drops, the pressure is relieved. When fully stretched forward and down, the distance from the girth to the back of the head and to the mouth becomes shorter than when the head is raised. The device hangs.
Horses usually don't even fight this device because its action is quite mild.
Additional equipment for working with champon on cord
Chambon puts pressure on the back of the head and mouth.
If you absolutely need to use something to stretch your horse, choose a chambon - it is cheaper and softer than the Pessoa system or the Abbott-Davies reins. The money you spend will not help your horse. Use the cheapest and gentlest system, and spend the money on massages for your horse and cord lessons.
Chambon takes the pressure off when the horse is stretching.
Put a chambon on the horse, and on the back, on both sides, attach an “elastic band” to the edge, adjusting it just above the hocks. I guarantee that the horse will feel the same pressure in the back as with the Pessoa system, but the chambon will allow him to stretch from front to front and down!
Remember that the horse can only stretch if it starts moving forward from the hindquarters, so train it slowly.
Pessoa system
The horse pulls his mouth, moving his own hind legs.
The Pessoa system is used for lunging. It is supposed to make the horse stretch and engage the hindquarters, encourage him to put his hind legs deeper under the body, so it's good for the back. I have seen the system in action several times, and as long as it kept the horse head down, the most striking effect was that he was able to hit the horse with the snaffle in the mouth with every movement of the hind legs.
The system has knots that connect the back and front of the horse through the edge. My guess is that the rope that wraps around the horse from behind should encourage him to put his hind legs deeper under his body, while also limiting the height of his head. But what is more sensitive - the skin on hind legs or mouth! The horse will lower his head down, but not stretch behind the snaffle, as the snaffle hits him with each step along the toothless edge and teeth ...
I haven't seen horses really engage their hindquarters in this "system" - they keep moving forward and hiding behind the reins. The system can be adjusted to lower (for more stretch) and higher (for collection), but even so it will not be effective enough.
Hock Hobbles (system interacting with the hocks)
When moving, the horse receives blows to the mouth.
Some of these devices are so ignorant of the fact that the horse has a sensitive mouth that I am horrified. What else can be achieved by using a device that connects the mouth to the hocks?
Abbott-Davies balancing rein
The Abbott-Davies balancing rein connects the snaffle to the horse's tail. In fact, this is a dead martingale, attached to the tail, stretched between the buttocks of the horse. Perhaps someone thinks that a horse will let his hindquarters down if he is pulled by the tail in this way? To bring the hindquarters in and step deeper under the body with the hind legs, the horse must move! In this case, the greatest impact will again be on the mouth. Don't forget about the weight of the straps. In addition, this adaptation does not allow the horse to stretch his neck forward and down, prompting him only to stick his nose between his front legs.
"Cowboy dressage" dead martingale
Eitan Beth Halachmy called his riding "Cowboy Dressage". "Discipline and dressage" he was taught by an officer of the Hungarian cavalry. Subsequently, Eitan became fascinated with the riding style of American cowboys and decided to combine the knowledge of both systems. The device he created involves connecting the snaffle to the horse's tail so that the rope runs along the side of the horse. This should make the horse bend over and help get him into obedience...
Martingales and dead maringals
There are several types of martingales that limit the height to which the horse raises his head. The simplest ones are attached to a snaffle and a girth or strap around the shoulders. Some are attached to the snaffle rings or to the nose strap of the primer, some are attached to the reins with rings.
Sliding (hunting) martingale often used by competitors. It is really very useful on jumps, especially with horses that tend to slip the reins when approaching the barrier.
Hot or stubborn horses tend to throw their heads up sharply, and this is not like being in front of the reins in dressage. It looks like "nose to the sky and away we go". The advantage of the sliding martingale is that it is designed in such a way that it starts working only when it is needed. When the rein rises above a certain level (the horse lifts its head), the rings hold it and bring the horse's head back down. The rein is pushing down, not back. When the horse carries his head in a more acceptable position, the martinagal straps hang loosely. The martingale also serves to prevent the rein from slipping down and prevents the horse from stepping into it if the rider suddenly disappears from his back.
Irish martingaleperforms the same functions regarding rein support. You pass the reins through the rings, and the belt lies around the horse's neck. If the horse raises its head, the strap rests on the neck and resists. When a horse behaves well, he doesn't work.
The problem with martingales, however, is that most of them are not long enough or too open to allow fine rein work. This is convenient on jumps, but disastrous in dressage. The Irish martingale allows almost no sideways movement of the reins and can sometimes hold the reins closer than necessary in a neutral position. Therefore, martingales are not suitable for basic arena work.
Many variations of dead martingales are known. These are belts of a certain length, going from the head to the chest. One of them - harbridge.
It attaches to the primer nose strap like any dead martingale. It's not that bad, but it's not elastic, so when it starts to function, it can work extremely sharply, with a jerk.
For some horses with a tendency to shine, the use of such martingales can be life threatening. The martingale gives the horse enough room to lift his neck, and with a sharp jerk, the horse can get scared, stand on the candle and roll over.
With the help of an additional adapter, a dead martingale can be attached to the snaffle rings. So it becomes many times stricter and tougher. In addition, with such fastening, the snaffle rings are pulled down and come together, which creates the effect of pincers: the bit additionally breaks at the articulation point and rests against the sky. This can cause the horse to flash or run.
Alliance Back Lift ( Integrated system back lift)
I haven't tested this device yet, but it seems to work correctly by acting on the front, trying to raise the base of the neck. The system is not connected to the mouth and does not seem to cause the horse to twist its neck and go beyond the vertical. This device MAY be used to force the horse to lower its head, but does not "ask" it to stretch.
Teresa Sandin; translation
There are the following types of auxiliary reins:
1. Decoupling. The horse is "untied" when contact is made between the snaffle ring and the girth on the right and left using this type of rein. The horse is shortly "untied" when his nose goes beyond the vertical, with his mouth close to his chest. And the horse is long "untied" when the line of his forehead is up to the vertical. Except for lunging, dressage reins are not used because this type of rein contributes to the overall stiffness of the horse. These reins are used in the first hours of riding, while the novice rider has not yet learned to maintain balance.
2. Martingale is also called "jumping rein", it is a two-piece harness, one end of which is attached to the girth and passes between the front legs of the horse or is attached to the chest strap. Both other ends the same length and end with rings through which the snaffle reins pass. The martingale should be of such length that it hangs in an arc at an angle to the snaffle. If the horse hits his head or wants to raise it too high, then the martingale will not be able to prevent this, but he must limit this movement. And this will enable the rider at such moments not to completely lose power over the horse, and she will not hit him with her head in the face.
Martingale is by no means an aid to horse dressage. But its use is beneficial, and above all in show jumping, horse hunting and when riding hot horses in the field.
3. Sliding reins. The sliding reins consist of two straps about 2.75 m long. On one side, the ends of the straps are attached at the height of the rider's knee to the girth. From here they pass from the inside through the snaffle rings below it and end in the rider's hand; the right rein passes through the right snaffle ring into the rider's right hand, and the left rein into the left. Inner sides both straps of the first half should be facing the horse so that the smooth sides slide in the snaffle rings without much friction.
The rider must use the sliding reins carefully because too much force pulls the horse's mouth to his chest. These reins can only be used by a rider who understands perfectly well how a properly obeying horse feels when he holds his head in front of him, as if fixed between two levers.
Sliding reins tempt with the ability to achieve "correct head placement" with the hands, without pushing the horse from behind to the reins, that is, without collection.
Sliding reins are used correctly if their action is intermittent and accompanied by a strong enough message as long as the horse has stiffness in the muscles of the neck, nape or ganaches. With slight pressure from the outside hand on the inside sliding rein, the horse is urged to yield. This method is described in detail in the book. Accordingly, the sliding rein should only act on one side and never on both sides at the same time. The essence of its action lies in the fact that, acting on one side, it turns off on the other. If the horse yields on both sides, then the use of sliding reins loses its meaning.
If these reins are used to get the horse to take a certain position or take, then reasonable dressage is out of the question. The logical consequence of this will be the refusal of the horse to obey.
If the sliding reins are not successful in a few minutes after they have been started, there is evidence that they cannot be used correctly and that it is better to leave them, otherwise the difficulties will only increase.
Whip
When dressage and riding, the rider uses an elastic whip, the upper end of which is much heavier than the lower one, so the rider holds it by the center of gravity. In this position, the whip springs and can be used without making sweeping hand movements. It is more comfortable than a stack or a short whip held by the handle. With a whip, a short blow of suitable strength is applied close to the girth. The impact of the blow is enough, therefore, it is not necessary for the horse to be frightened also by the whistle of a whip cutting through the air. If you need to hit with a whip, then this is done with appropriate force, and by no means playing, uncertainly and figuring out how the horse will react to this. One should not strike in anger, and one should always be aware of the force of one's blow.
If a horse is mounted with a whip, then it is held in the left hand. In this case, it is necessary that the horse does not see the whip, otherwise it will be afraid of it from the very beginning.
If the rider wants another athlete to pass the whip to him, then this should be done in such a way that the horse does not notice the whip, because he is always afraid of it.
The whip is used: when training horses that have not been ridden, in order to inspire the sending effect of the legs and muscles of the lumbosacral region, when riding bad-ridden or spoiled horses, when they do not obey and lie down on the rein, they do not go forward enough after exposure to the legs (as horses that are not ridden do) if they are lazy or in punishment.
If the horse does not respond or is reluctant to respond to leg pressure, he can be reminded to do so by lashing the whip. This can be done both to support the forward leg drive and to support the leg drive to the side. A light blow is enough, but it is necessary to simultaneously influence the leg. If, however, to strike only after an unsuccessful leg impact, the horse will not understand the relationship between the impact and its cause. In this case, the horse will only be intimidated, but there will be no success.
The whip is unsuitable for riding in the field or in show jumping. Here you can, if necessary, use a stack 60-80 centimeters long.
Spurs
Until the beginning rider has mastered his legs, he is not allowed to use spurs, because with them he can only injure the horse, tickle it and induce him to jump, from which he himself will fly out of the saddle. If the rider has learned to sit so firmly that he is able to control his legs, then he can be allowed to use spurs. Spurs are needed only in those moments when the legs need to be given an increased emphasis. If spurs are used excessively, then more and more dull the horse's sensitivity. The less the rider resorts to the help of spurs, the better. Resisting the use of spurs, the horse kicks with its hind legs. In most cases, this is a sign that the spur thrust was given with inappropriate force, hesitantly, or it lasted too long. A single thrust given at the moment when something is demanded of the horse is never resisted. If the horse kicks with the hind leg, then the rider should take this as a statement from his horse that he has not yet learned how to properly use the spurs. She makes the same reminder to the rider, waving her tail. Many horses constantly wag their tails when they are tickled by their spurs. Some riders respond to a trainer who points out their inability to use spurs: "I can't get anything out of a horse with spurs because he can't feel them." Any rider should feel his legs close to the horse's torso. If he has not learned this, then he needs to remove the spurs and first learn to feel it.
Spur injections should be short and close to the girth; by raising the knee, the rider will touch the horse's body more with the spur. At the same time, the toe of the foot goes down a little and in outside. Spur thrusts are not useful and wrong if the rider does not work simultaneously with the lumbosacral region and the leg.
Spurs should be used with particular care when riding sensitive horses and mares in hunting.
The voice is an aid always available to the rider. They can send or calm the horse. The voice is used just as carefully as the spurs. A kind, soft voice has a calming effect, while a sharp, sonorous voice, rather, excites the horse.
You should never speak loudly in the stable.
Korda
Cord - an auxiliary tool for working with horses in hands, this is a cord about 7 meters long, which is held in the left hand, driving the horse along the cord to the left, and chasing to the right - to right hand. The cord is attached to the snaffle ring. The other end of the cord and the 2-3 meters of cord remaining when moving in a circle are in the other hand of the cord. At the same time, you need to pay attention so that the part folded into several circles does not hang low and the cord does not get tangled in it. The cord must be held in the hand so that it can be lengthened or shortened at any time.
The dominant hand is at the height of the horse's mouth and controls the tension of the line. Lunging with the arm down and the lunge hanging is horse movement, not lunging.
Lunging is the very first work with young horses, it is practiced to train the horse to walk under the saddle, when jumping, correcting stubborn horses and, above all, with horses with weak backs. Lunging is also used if the rider has not yet learned to enter into the rhythm of the horse's movement and with horses that have lost their course and sweep, as well as with those who, after an illness, should be spared. On the lunge, the horse works correctly when it moves in calm, sweeping gaits.
When working on the lunge, the attachment of auxiliary reins, uniform, skillful use of the lunge, whip and voice play an important role. Both last possibilities of action replace the lumbosacral region and the leg of the rider, while the actions of the reins are more or less actively transmitted through the cord and passively through the appropriate attachment of the reins. Attaching the reins, as well as using voice and whip, require skill and focused attention. During operation, it is often necessary to correct the attachment of the cord. Lunging a horse is more difficult than many people think. Riders who have not learned to get into the rhythm of the movement of the horse will never replace the missing skill with work on the lunge. With the help of a lunge, the horse can be temporarily corrected, but if the rider does not sit correctly in the saddle, then he will quickly ruin it again. Therefore, it is better to correct your horse by learning to enter into the rhythm of its movement.
Cavaletti
Cavaletti are poles laid along the course of the horse at a height of about 20 centimeters and spaced from each other by about 1.40 meters. When the horse under the rider is forced to walk or trot through the cavaletti, they achieve:
1) have the horse keep a close eye on the ground and encourage him to higher leg movements. If the rider does not interfere with her, then she will, as a rule, stretch her neck forward and down and relax the muscles of her back. If the demands on her are too high, especially in working with hot horses or horses with weak backs, or if the cavaletti is placed in such a way that the horse, hitting them, pushes them, and the next one steps on them, then as a result of this there will be more harm. than good;
2) so that the rider feels relaxed and able to adapt to the rhythm of the horse's movement. And in order not to lag behind the rhythm of its movement and not to disturb the mouth and back of the horse, the rider must try to enter into the rhythm of its movement by strengthening the closing of the knees.
Working on cavaletti benefits horses with short, broad back, forcing them to relax, as well as badly ridden horses with stiff backs and stepping out of time.
Nevertheless, work on Cavaletti is greatly overestimated. The horse, striding over them, of course, stretches his neck forward and down, but the rider in no way learns to achieve this movement by himself with the help of a message in the same way that he would not learn it if the stretching of the neck were stimulated by bringing a bag to the head.
Everyone strives to make their life as comfortable as possible. If, for example, your car has a carburetor or camber, clutch or speed not adjusted, you need to fix it urgently. After all, only when everything is in order with the “iron horse”, you can not worry about the upcoming trip and any long journey will seem like a pleasure trip.
Pretty much the same with the horse. If she has something “not adjusted”, training and competitions turn into torment. To make it easier for the equestrian to work with the horse, so that education does not turn into a struggle between man and animal, so that the contact between the rider and the horse is the most complete, a lot of auxiliary ammunition has been invented, which will be discussed today.
Harmful head
Martingale does not educate, he helps the horse find the right position of the head, which the rider requires of him. If the horse is sufficiently trained, but begins to get nervous, “glow”, a simple variant of the martingale is used. It is considered the most harmless, the softest. Martingale rings come in small and large diameters. The smaller the diameter, the stricter the martingale, the greater the effort transferred to the horse, and the stronger the influence. Martingales are mostly made from leather. They come in different widths, which, however, does not affect anything other than strength. You can also make a braided martingale to order, but the question is - why?
floating reins are used when the horse lifts its head, twists it, “drags”, does not chew, bites the bit, etc. Such reins are now undeservedly forgotten, but they have a complex effect. In fact, this is a pair of reins, on which, at a certain distance, seven half-rings are sewn directly along the length of the rein closer to the muzzle, in order to fasten carabiners from additional belts to them. An additional strap is attached with one carabiner to the half ring on the rein and passed through the martingale ring to the bits, to which it is attached with a buckle, as on a regular rein. The closer to the muzzle an additional belt is fastened, the softer it acts. When the rider takes the reins, the martingale and the reins begin to act simultaneously. But this action is so gentle that even the most inexperienced riders easily find contact with the horse without harming it. The floating rein is always made of leather.
If the horse perceives the work with anger, constantly “glows”, lifts its head so that it hits the rider’s face with its head (this happens often, and if the bridle has a buckle on the back of the head, then it falls clearly on the rider’s nose), then put on "dead" thread. Sliding reins are often referred to as a sliding sheet, so for clarity, an ordinary sheet was dubbed "dead". The “dead” sprue is fastened to the primer (if the sprue is branched, then to the bit) and to the girth. It is of a certain length and is adjustable by the rider. The dowel prevents the horse from raising its head above the level at which it is fastened. But when using a "dead" sheet, the rider must be experienced, otherwise the horse may fall. A “dead” dowel is most often a leather single and a leather double (with leather stitching). It is usually made very powerful as it is worn on problem horses.
Sliding reins (trains, from German Schleifen - to slide and Zugel - rein) - an additional rein passed through the rings of the snaffle (or through rings that are connected by short straps to the rings of the snaffle) and fastened with the ends to the girth or front of the saddle. By pulling on the sliding rein, the rider forces the horse to surrender at the poll.
sliding reins designed not only to control the horse, but also for re-education. An experienced rider can pick up the sliding reins or, on the contrary, let go, that is, let the horse rest and stretch its neck. Sliding reins are detachable and one-piece. One-piece fastened to the girth (raising and lowering the head in a certain plane). Split sliding reins have two straps underneath. You can fasten both belts to the girth, or you can separate and fasten to the girth. If the sliding reins are fastened to the girth, then a kind of triangle is obtained. In this case, the action exerted on the horse is harsher. If the sliding rein straps are fastened at the sides, the action will be no less strict, but at the same time it will make it easier for the rider to work with turning the horse's head left and right (with some loss of effort directed up and down).
The best option is when such reins are made of leather. But with braided sliding reins, you can greatly erase your hands.
Suspended saddle
Webbing (chest harness)- This is a belt with leather stitching, where felt or foam rubber is laid, passing along the chest of the horse, with a neck strap that is adjustable up and down. The main purpose of the strap is to hold the saddle so that it does not move back. The underarm has exactly the same purpose. The strap differs from the underarm in its shape, lies low enough and does not hit the muscles. There is also a strap with a martingale belt, which is sewn in the center (or a ring is inserted in the center, and a belt is already attached to it). If the rider uses a martingale and at the same time it is necessary to support the saddle, then in order not to use two parts at once, a strap with a martingale strap is put on. There are also straps with such a belt on the ring, where the belt is not sewn tightly to the ring, but fastened. If necessary, the martingale is fastened, and if it is not needed, then only a strap can be used. Leather straps with leather soft stitching are usually worn on trotters. Rubber straps are used for racehorses so as not to hinder the movement of the horse.
Underarm (bib) has the shape of a triangle. Two straps on the sides go to the rings, the straps coming from the rings are attached to the saddle, and the bottom strap runs between the front legs of the horse and is attached to the girth. The underbelly prevents the saddle from sliding back on climbs. It is most often used for walking and hiking. The underbelly is lace, leather, leather with soft stitching (for horses with delicate skin) and rubber. Braid differs from leather only in price and durability (leather, with proper care, lasts longer), and rubber is mainly used for sports horses.
trok- this is, one might say, a circular cinch. There are tracks for blankets and tracks for saddles. Troc for blankets is most often made of wide braid and serves to hold the blanket on the horse. The saddle track is used for Cossack or racing saddles. For the Cossack saddle - a leather track. They are attracted to the saddle pillow. For a racing saddle, a rubber track with a buckle, with a long leather strap on the other side. In this way, the race saddle is additionally fixed.
Not cashier's checks
Ober check(from the English over-check - upper limiter), the so-called "dead" check, which is used in trotting trials and regulates the position of the trotter's head. At the same time, additional iron is inserted into the horse's mouth - a snaffle. Two straps depart from it, pass through the muzzle, converge into one strap, the end of which is thrown over the saddle. The ober-check serves to raise the horse's head and extend it at the nape. It has a very small degree of freedom and is only available in leather.
Side check ("floating" check) passes through a loop on the bridle's sugolovny strap from the half ring on the saddle to the ring, at which it bifurcates and goes to the bit. The side check does not prevent the occiput from bending, but it also allows the horse's head to rise. The most common use of a side check is when riding cross country to keep the horse from falling if it stumbles. In trotting trials, side checks can be put on horses that “lay down” in an over check and just tear it. Cross-country hiking, mountain climbing, etc. necessarily require the use of a side check. The effect of a side-check and an over-check is basically the same, but side-checking does not require additional hardware. Side check is leather and rawhide (rawhide stretches, but does not tear).
Spring-lever system
Obergut(gurt, edge, from it. gurt - cinch) is used to work with interchanges in the hands. In fact, this is a saddle, but not like a trotting, hard, on the lever, but soft. The continuation of this saddle is a girth. The obergut has a central ring and rings on the sides. It happens with one pair of rings and with two pairs. Obergut with two pairs of rings has more options for fastening interchanges. In the absence of an obergut, the decoupling can be attached to the saddle (by fastening it to pruners or side rings / half rings). A circus edge with two handles at the top is used for vaulting. Obergut is leather and braid.
interchanges fix the horse's head in the desired position. This is a belt of complex configuration, which is fastened from the bit to the saddle or to the wrap (gurt). If there are two pairs of rings on the obergut, then the decouplings can be placed higher or lower. If the horse lifts its head, then the decouplings are lowered, if, on the contrary, it “buries”, then they are raised. Interchanges are leather, braid and rubber. There is no difference between braid and leather, except for price and durability, and rubber gives an additional degree of freedom.
Chambon- a type of connection. Chambon cords are fastened on each side to the snaffle ring, then passed through the rings sewn in at the junction of the forehead strap with the cheek strap (or through the rings of a special strap that is attached to the shoulder strap with additional straps), converge through the ring into one strap passing between the front legs horses and fastened to the girth or herd. Chambon does not limit the extension of the head and neck, so it is used in dressage of horses that have excessively tense back muscles. Basically, chambon is used when working in the hands.
gog it resembles a chambon, only it is attached with carbines not to the snaffle rings, but is passed through them and fastened to the rings on additional straps sewn to the main strap. It turns out a kind of triangle with a complex lever system. In action, the gog resembles a kind of symbiosis of a side-check and a floating rein. The upper (with rings) part of chambon and gog and the belt attached to the girth are most often leather, and the plaits are silk, nylon and rubber. But it is always a round flagellum that ends with a carbine.
Inspection
The main thing when choosing the above described ammunition is to know exactly what you want from the horse. Otherwise, instead of correcting the mistake, you can spoil, or even cripple the horse. And it is impossible for beginners to work with these items of ammunition without a trainer!
When choosing ammunition, you don’t have to chase after cheapness, but you shouldn’t buy an expensive thing without looking either, because the price can vary greatly depending on what kind of cheating the trading company does. Therefore, you need to pay attention not only to the manufacturer, but also to the trading company.
When choosing ammunition, you should carefully examine the thing from all sides. And let them accuse you of suspiciousness. Such suspiciousness in the store can later save lives in competitions or training. Buckles and rings should be well sewn, as there is a strong load of "breaking". Rings must be welded or chopped, checked for stretching. The rubber ring in leather and braid interchanges inside should have a safety strap in case the ring bursts. In rubber junctions, such a strap is not always the case.
The next step is to check the seams. Everything should be well stitched with dense threads, with a bartack. The bend must be sufficient to power units. For example, in the bridle the bend is 5 cm, and in the junctions near the ring it is 8 cm.
Since all this ammunition carries power load The quality of the leather matters a lot. When choosing, you can bend the skin in half - the front part should not crack. If they say in the store: “Don’t do it - ruin it,” then move away from the counter: nothing will happen to good skin with such bending.
When choosing braid ammunition, you need to pay attention to those places where metal rings (half rings) are inserted. In these places, reinforcement from chafing with leather pads is desirable. By the way, such amplification is present in Belarusian-made ammunition, but not in imported items.
On cheap imported ammunition, the pegs on the buckles can be bent. If, when pressed with your fingers, the so-called tail bends, you cannot take a thing with such a buckle. Either it will unfasten all the time, or it will fasten so that it will be possible to unfasten it only with pliers.
The firm of brooms does not knit
Expensive well-known companies make good quality ammunition. For example, French products have always been distinguished by quality, although their price is not affordable for everyone. But now cheap French products have begun to appear on the domestic market, which is very strange and suspicious. French ammunition cannot fall in price like that, especially in one single Russia! So before you begin to joyfully rub your hands in connection with the successful purchase of French production, think about whether this ammunition was made around the nearest corner by the novice saddler Vasya Frantsuzov.
Good ammunition is produced by Italian firms (for example, Daslo, DMS). Italian ammunition is of high quality and cheaper than French, about average in price. Also High Quality and German ammunition. But the Polish one is mainly made of pressed leather.
With cheap imported goods, problems may arise after some time of operation. The fact is that it is made from a split leather with a special impregnation, ironed with a hot roller. Such a product can only be lubricated from the inside out. But domestic skin can be oiled through. From this, the skin changes color, is better preserved and lasts longer.
Very often, people "prick" on cheap and low-quality imported amulets. The basis of a good obergut (a belt that is sewn inside and on which everything rests) is leather or other powerful material. The cheap base is cardboard, when it breaks, everything breaks. In the store you can’t determine this in any way, everything is sewn up, nothing is visible. You need to focus on the company and the price. If the seller allows, then you can bend the wrap in the center, and if after 10-20 movements it becomes too easy to bend in this place, then inside is cardboard. This means that you have already broken the foundation, and the one who buys this wrap will buy a new one in a month.
Unfortunately, no one is immune from buying a low-quality product. In this regard, I would like to repeat once again that you should buy ammunition in a reputable store and, if possible, with a professional! And also we must remember that the service life of ammunition depends on its periodic preventive examination, timely repair and proper care of the skin or raw material. A well-groomed ammunition is the key to victory.
Many thanks to the staff of the Good Pony Club LLC (CMI saddlery workshop) for their help in preparing the material.
