So, cats loving skiing, but not loving fat-assed capitalists, fighting for all sorts of garbage at exorbitant prices .... Now I'll tell you how to save money.
A beautiful, light and all such a fashionable machine for preparing cross-country skis in stores costs from 3 thousand and more, usually 4,500 - 10,000 rubles only for the machine itself, and for the frame (legs or a special table) you will be asked the same amount.
There is absolutely no point in spending that kind of money. It took me 1000 (one thousand) rubles to make such a machine.
He may not be pretentious, but he performs the functions of holding the ski during procedures with slippery skis perfectly. For stability, you can fix it with clamps on any table, or drill holes in the base and fix it with bolts again on the table.
For manufacturing you will need:
1) Wooden glued canvas at least 1650 x 250 x 40 mm, I bought a regular window sill made of glued wood in a hardware store for 900 rubles (2014) - 1 pc
2) Mounting plates 40 x 80 mm with 10 mm holes (again, there are any building) - 4 pcs
3) A pair of bolts (or a piece of threaded stud) 50-60 mm long, 10 mm in diameter and wing nuts to them. I took a stud and cut it, it is more convenient to tighten the wing nuts on both sides than to hold the bolt head and tighten the nut.
4) 100 g stain with varnish (Belinka will do)
5) A piece of hose with a wall thickness of 3-5 mm. I used old grips from a bike (rubber grips from the steering wheel)
Tool:
Electric jigsaw and long saw blades for soft wood carving
- drill (screwdriver)
- drill for metal D10 mm
- wood drill D10 mm
- coarse skin 300 x 300 mm
- small skin 300 x 300 mm
- brush for coloring medium width
How to do?
We mark and cut the window sill (or whatever you have) according to the following drawing:
After cutting the base, we round the ends of the tops, as seen in the photo above.
We cut out the grooves (see photo) convenient for attaching the machine to the table. No need to get carried away and reduce the strength of the machine in critical places, especially close to the middle, where the mount will hang. By the way, on real machines, it is for the mount that they attach the ski to the machine (you can implement it, but I can’t figure out how).
We grind all the sections with a large sandpaper, then a small one.
We drill holes in the mounting plates (usually there are 6-8 mm, we drill up to 10)
Trying clamping plates. It is necessary to place them so that their edges can clamp the ski, but at the same time the ski should lie on the machine itself, and not on the edges of the plate. Andestend? We mark up. We drill holes for the clamping plates in the machine.
On the ends of the clamping plates we put on pieces of hose cut to size.
We customize everything, trying on a ski.
We remove the plates, paint the machine. I dyed Belink "oh. You can not paint, but paraffin and other production waste stick to the dyed one less.
We collect and get something like this:
You can prepare skis.
I use a simple set for preparation.
3 more tips for a skier in a crisis))))
To prepare the skis, buy an old Soviet iron from the ad, it will cost 200-300 rubles, and it is regulated and warms no worse than the TOKO branded iron for 3-5000 rubles.
Instead of a branded hard brush for 700 rubles at the household one, buy the hardest one for 50 rubles and cut the bristles in half with a knife.
Instead of Swix's proprietary wash of the old layer of paraffin, white spirit or refined gasoline is quite suitable, the main thing is not to use harsh solvents.
Ride on health))) Last Saturday I ran 17 km in 1.5 hours, for an amateur at my age it’s normal)))
Small holder for transporting skis and poles made of polypropylene pipe and fittings.
He invented and made a small device to facilitate the carrying of skis for his schoolgirl daughter. It is not very convenient to carry a backpack, a shift, ski boots and skis with sticks at the same time. It is much easier to carry skis with poles in one set.
Materials needed
To assemble the holder, I used light materials: a 20 mm polypropylene pipe and fittings of the same diameter.
In total it took:
ten corners of 90 degrees;
two connecting tees;
four clips from 16 mm pipe wiring;
four screws.
Tools:
soldering iron for polypropylene pipes;
scissors for polypropylene pipes;
screwdriver;
Making a device
To begin with, five parts of the holder were soldered separately.
After empirically determining the required gap for inserting skis, I soldered the entire structure as a whole.
On top near the handle I put clips for attaching sticks.
Attaching skis to a fixture
The process of attaching the skis themselves is simple: it is enough to squeeze the skis and insert them into the gap of the holder, release.
After that, the skis are straightened and fixed themselves. And the sticks are simply inserted into the clips until they click.
The weight of the holder turned out to be about 300 grams.
This ski holder was assembled to make life easier for my schoolgirl.
And the consultant suggested taking such holders (I myself looked at Velcro, which is cheaper). After our short discussion, I realized that he was right: Velcro is easy to lose, especially for children (she later became convinced when she saw them on the street in the winter on a snowy "spread"). Velcro can also stick to gloves and mittens (also a small "nuance"). Perhaps, if I take skis for myself (so far our family has a "full" set of only skates), then I will take these Velcro for comparison and as a more budget option.
Place of purchase - store "Sportmaster"(I left my review on it. If you yourself look at the official website of the company, then according to this link find just this product.
The cost was 140 rubles, but this is taking into account the payment of 30% by bonuses from the card (if there are no bonuses or a card, then the regular price is 199 rubles).
Here is what the manufacturer says:
Holder for easy carrying of skis and poles over long distances. The model is made of lightweight plastic, easy to attach and securely holds the skis together with the poles. Includes 2 holders.
I was even a little surprised long term Warranty for this "trifle" - 1 year.
This year I already noticed ski covers (black) on sale, but only one size, as I understand it. In any case, it is much more convenient to store in cases (it will allow you to keep the presentation longer). We have skis in the corridor (in the corner), nowhere else.
Holders allow you to connect poles and skis together (this is convenient not only for storage, so that nothing in different sides did not fly apart, but also a nice bonus when carrying). We have physical education at school 2 times a week (in winter, when there are no severe frosts and the weather allows, the children go skiing). We also sometimes go for walks on the weekends. Most of all, I take my son to school myself, but it’s not always easy to place a ski kit in the cabin of a car (in addition to it, there is also an unbearable backpack, a bag of shoes, a bag of sportswear, crafts and much more). The presence of holders also acts as a small helper - everything is compactly located on the floor where the rear seat is.
In general, you can store skis with boots at school, most often we leave them there if we don’t plan to ride them on the weekend.
My son's skis have bindings for boots (boots were taken separately), so they are quite "weighty".
Two holders are needed so that one fixes (holds) skis with sticks on the upper side, and the second on the lower side. It turns out that the sticks serve as a kind of carrying handle, but I carry it by holding the skis themselves (somewhere in the middle). It seems to me that this method of carrying (holding on sticks) is not entirely reliable.
Nuance: rings that are placed at the ends ski poles will interfere with each other when inserted into the holder. That is, one stick will be inserted, but the second one is not completely and can fly out, because. rings interfere with each other (raising one stick up will not solve the problem).
The photo below just shows that one stick is in place, and the second one has come out of the "nest". I lowered the holder on purpose.
Therefore, it is better for adults to insert skis and poles into such a holder, or for a child to practice with adults. During the PE lesson, there is no guarantee that the child will not lose these holders (depending on where they leave / fall / forget somewhere, etc.).
The holders are dimensionless, so they should also fit adult skis (my son has a size of 140 cm, in a year or two you will have to take new ones). The width of the ski is about 4 cm, the thickness is about 1.1 cm. I am writing for information: we still have free space "inside" the holders.
The material is plastic and the manufacturer writes that it is made in Russia (wow, not China). The plastic is quite high-quality in appearance and pliable (it is also well processed, there are no rough areas anywhere). So far, nothing has cracked anywhere, although children do not differ in special "care" for things. There was no smell from the product, they were sold in a package.
I don’t know what temperature range it will withstand, most likely it is designed for “comfortable” storage along with skis (skis are also all made of different materials).
The size of one holder, if anyone needs:
length (total) - 9.5 cm
width (at the widest point) - 4.7 cm
plastic wall thickness (partitions) - 4 mm
length of hole for holding skis - 6 cm (together with the thickness of the partitions)
the width of each ski hole is 1.8 cm (without the thickness of the baffles)
===================================================================
Does the holder peel off the coating (paint) on the skis? In general, the item is very smooth and well-crafted. I think that if you use it carefully, incidents will not happen (but in general, children can "tear off" with the help of something else).
I will still recommend it, but I would advise you to go to Sportmaster and look at this product live (there is in the window and on some skis, as a sample; ask the seller). If you also have skis bought in the same chain, you can even estimate and measure them. In general, this is such a "trifle" that many take without much hesitation (they won't suit children's skis, they leave it to themselves).
Today we offer a selection of simple ski attachments designed by the inventors different countries. Do what suits you without delay - the winter holidays are ahead.
INSTEAD OF RIBBON AND STRAP. Kai uzyazy, they put skis and sticks on the road, everyone knows. Most often, the ends of the skis are tied with a ribbon or strap. And only then they tie sticks to the skis. The seeming simplicity of such a link sometimes turns into a nuisance - on a hike or a walk, a ribbon or strap is lost.
Figure 1 shows a screw clamp by the Swedish inventor H. Auberg. For a pair of skis with poles, you need two of these clips. How to use them? Having folded the skis as usual, put the sticks on the sides. Open the clamps (the halves are connected by loops), throw them over the ends of the skis and tighten them with long screws. Finally, the stick is fixed with semicircular grips with short screws.
And here's another clamp. It was proposed by the Finnish inventor U. Saari-nen. Unlike the Auberg clamp, it is much easier to make it. This is understandable, because he clamps the skis without poles (Fig. 2).
Two clamps will require 4 springs and 6 steel parts. How
the device of Saarinen works, it is not difficult to understand. Pulling on the steel plate releases the latch from the hook and the curved plates open up. Between themselves, they are now connected by only one spring.
The American inventor J. Karlsteb came up with a device, thanks to which the skis not only tighten, but also receive the so-called weight deflection, which is so necessary to maintain the springy properties of the tree.
Let's get acquainted with the Karlsteba clamp (Fig. 3). Limiters with ears are put on the front ends of the skis. A steel cable is passed through them. Two loops of the cable are thrown over the ends of the steel rod. Another cable is pulled between the rod and the stop screw at the opposite end of the skis. It acts as a press - if its length decreases, the compressive force increases and the deflection
ski increases. Pay attention to the strap around the skis in the middle. This is a limiter that does not allow you to tighten the skis too much.
When winter comes to an end and the skis need to be removed for the summer, an invaluable service can be provided by the adaptation of the Scottish inventor K. O "Neill (Fig. 4). Short crossbars are welded across a steel pipe, the length of which is equal to the length of the skis.
Both the pipe itself and the cross members are made of a pipe of the same diameter. The crossbars serve as a kind of emphasis for the skis, giving them the required deflection.
SOMETHING ABOUT A SKI STICK. The Italian inventor D. Gambesi believes that nothing should annoy the skier during the competition. Even such a trifle as straps on
I myself come from Krasnodar Territory, I got to Siberia by the age of thirty and at that time I knew absolutely nothing about skis and bindings. Prior to that, he served in Kazakhstan and was fond of hunting, but there was no need for skiing.
And therefore, having arrived in Novosibirsk for winter hunting went on what was "at hand" - on ordinary soldier's skis. I dug around on the sites and found only one photo of how they look:
What is good - versatility for any size of foot (shoe). But the shortcomings immediately showed up.
1. The toe stop is metal and over time it "wipes" on the sides of any, even the most durable shoes.
2. Elastic bindings pull the foot forward all the time and put pressure on the heel, and the loop on the toe pushes the toe from above.
3 and most importantly - it is very difficult to control such skis in the bush, turning the ski left and right.
4. unreliability. All on screws / bolts, which flew out more than once during the hunt, the consequences are unpleasant.
5.small area of the ski = deep fall through the fresh snow and drifts.
Here are approximately such mounts, only on soldier skis they consist of two halves and are adjustable in width:
It so happened that then he tore the ligaments in his legs, he had to forget about skiing for a while, then he left for his geographical homeland again, but nevertheless after some, albeit a long time, he returned.
And again there was a problem in skiing.
By that time, "Taiga" and "Hunting" were sold in stores, 2 times I tried to be like them, taking from friends. With my weight over 90 kg, they also seemed to me too small in area and too big in weight.
Accidentally in the "Albatross" I came across skis, which I bought at a price of about 3 with a short tyre. What they are made of and who the manufacturer is - I will not say and was not interested. judging by the photos on the forum, that is the so-called "Kemerovo" skis, according to further photos, someone can correct me. I did not understand, because there were only 2 pairs, different lengths. I took which are more authentic. The most important thing is their weight. I did not weigh them "in their pure" form, but then, compared to the "Taiga" or "Hunting" ones, they seemed to me much lighter. The size is 171 cm (between the extreme points in height) with a width of 19 cm. I figured in my mind that it would be enough for my weight. Three-layer. So in terms of strength, too, they should not have failed.
I consulted with more experienced comrades about tarnishing (the top of the ski was immediately varnished, and something seemed to be applied to the bottom, but what exactly was not clear, and even the wood was “palpable” to the touch). after listening to a number of opinions about resins and lubricants, as well as the need for burning with a blowtorch, I once went to the "Start" on Dzerzhinsky Avenue, bought a bottle of "Utkus" resin (110 rubles). I decided not to use a blowtorch, limiting myself to an ordinary small burner, here is the whole kit for grinding:
The operation was carried out on the balcony, applied 2 layers, the bubble was enough for 2 skis (total 2 hours of work).
Nevertheless, it is difficult to control a "small flame" when heating a large surface - a soldering iron would be more convenient, as it seems to me. The skis acquired such a bottom view (although this is already 3 years after the "operation"):
I drilled holes in the "nose" - it was even earlier in practice that I realized that if you suddenly have to go, then it is much more convenient to carry skis with you than to drag them in your hands:
Well, I put a piece of 5 mm nylon cable 3 meters in my pocket. I still use it, including for other purposes, incl. for skinning game (or drag it to the place of cutting) or tie / attach something else.
Now directly there was a question on fastenings. I repeat - almost "from scratch" I began to study, I did not know anything about the hunting site, so I used the advice and open spaces of the Internet. Found good article http://www.sakhalin.ru/Rover/TEXTS/skins.htm , I read and even bought the so-called "semi-rigid fasteners", but something raised doubts about their reliability, because a large load falls on the very first fastening screw , and the idea that the back of the shoe will be constantly rubbed with a cable, although dressed in a steel spring sheath, but iron against the skin will always be stronger. I also bought simple bindings with a loop on the toe - both canvas and leather. The idea of "strings" on these loops did not inspire either, and swept away the canvas loops, imagining how to "communicate" with them if they get even a little wet, and then "stubborn" in the cold.
The main thing is that I would like to have bindings that would allow the ski to be well controlled left and right when walking through the bushes.
