Pedal axle. Types of bicycle pedals

Perhaps, lovers of simple periodic bike rides are not familiar with this term, but those who often use a bicycle as a vehicle and even more so, professionals in the field of cycling are aware of what a carriage mechanism is.

Like any mechanism, this part is exposed to external influences over time, wears out or even becomes unusable, which requires maintenance, full or partial replacement. In any case, you must first remove the carriage, determine the suitability of the part, and then decide whether to repair it or replace it with a new one.

The carriage is a node located in the middle part of the frame, placed in a special cavity - a glass. Where to look? It's simple: it is hidden where the cranks with pedals and stars are located. The main functions of the bottom bracket are connecting the cranks to the frame of the bike and providing torque when pedaling.

A quite reasonable question may arise: what, you can’t do without this device at all? There is no bike without a carriage. If one is nevertheless caught, it means that it is not in use now.

Depending on the bike model, the carriages differ in size and maintainability. Most widespread received 68 mm knots, but other diameters can be found. Range of bottom bracket shaft lengths: 110mm, 113mm and 122.5mm.

Types of bottom brackets:

• cartridge (disposable);
• collapsible, which are subject to repair.

The first type includes carriages installed in the frame and not subject to disassembly. Obviously, the service life of such a mechanism is equal to the time of complete wear of the bearings or the axle. Complete sealing of the unit allows it to be used for a long time even in extreme conditions, not to mention measured driving.

Collapsible mechanisms will require periodic inspection and maintenance from the owner. The last is to replace worn bearings and lubricate the entire assembly. We’ll just talk about them further: how to remove the carriage, fix the problem and reassemble the assembly.

Fault definition

The fact that the carriage has become “buggy” can only be found out when pedaling. Visually, assembly problems are difficult to determine, so it is better to prick up your ears and move your attention to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bottom of the frame. You should not hear too much, especially if you are moving along a busy road. However, if the state of the carriage is unimportant, it will “scream” about itself without delay.

A faulty carriage will not allow you to quickly ride a bike. Clogged dirt, worn bearings, and lack of lubrication will permanently hamper movement. All this is accompanied by an unpleasant creak and a characteristic knock from below. Also, the assembly may begin to play (broken bearings and axle misalignment).

You can finally check whether it is really worth disassembling the carriage using the “standing ride” method. To do this, you need to accelerate a little, get up from the seat and turn the pedals. If the carriage mechanism is jammed, the sounds and the deterioration of the pedal travel will only intensify.

Removing the carriage: do it right!

It is absolutely logical that in order to eliminate the malfunction, you first need to remove the assembly from the bicycle frame. To be precise, then pull it out of the glass. Just about how to do it yourself, and the conversation will go.

So, before proceeding with the removal procedure, you will need a set of tools:

• Connecting rod squeeze.
• Wrench. If the size of the nut is unknown, then an adjustable wrench will do.
• Flat screwdriver.
• Small hammer.
• Carriage remover for extraction from a glass.

Before proceeding with disassembly, you should clean the entire area around the carriage. With a damp cloth, all dirt and dust is removed from the frame, the bottom bracket area and the connecting rods. This will be enough so that when parsing, excess dirt does not get inside. But it would be better if you wash the whole bike. Cleanliness is the best assistant in repair. Proven!

Plugs are removed from the connecting rods. Basically, these are plastic covers that are easily pry off with a screwdriver and are also easily inserted back. Next, you need to unscrew the nuts securing the connecting rods to the carriage. The squeeze will help in this matter: we put it on the nut, then we take the key and unscrew it. Depending on the type of thread, the direction of loosening and tightening the nuts may change. There is an option where on the left side the thread is right-handed (counterclockwise - loosening), and on the right side - left-handed (counterclockwise - tightening). Maybe on both sides there is only a right-hand thread, it will not be difficult to figure it out.

The next step is to remove the connecting rods. The squeeze is inserted with the other end and twisted into the connecting rod. The squeeze bolt is screwed into the connecting rod with force, as a result of which it gradually comes off the axis. It is recommended to start the removal from the side where there are no transmission stars.

The bicycle carriage is held with the help of special cups fixed with rings. A screwdriver is attached to the ring so that its end looks to the left. With light taps of a hammer on a screwdriver, the ring turns smoothly to the left and jumps off. Similarly, by turning to the left, by the shock method, the calyx is also removed.

So, finally got to the carriage bearings. These small parts can be removed with the same screwdriver: pry and they will pop out.

And, finally, a carriage shaft is pulled out of the glass with a removable device - a rotating part that plays leading role in the mobility of the bicycle cranks.

Troubleshooting: maintenance, cleaning, replacement

We dismantled the carriage, pulled it out of the frame, and what do we see? The condition of the bottom bracket shell depends on how much dirt got into it and how much the bearings are worn. Sometimes bearings simply shatter and need to be completely replaced. This often happens if the carriage assembly has been in operation for more than three to five years.

First, all parts must be checked for defects. First of all, this applies to bearings. Then we inspect the carriages, cups with latches. If any component has visible damage, then you need to change it to a new one. The rest of the parts are cleaned in a solvent. The most difficult thing will be to clean the bearings: the dirt is very firmly held between the balls.

The space inside the carriage glass is cleaned with a rag. It is better to sprinkle fine dirt with a lubricating spray (WD-40, for example) and wipe the walls with a soft, dry cloth.

Lubrication and carriage assembly

Using a screwdriver, the walls of the glass are processed. Apply the product in an even thin layer. No need to put mountains of grease inside. It's useless. Grease is then applied to the bearing, which is inserted from the side of the stars. The flat frame should face outward. Then you need to lubricate the bottom bracket shaft and insert it so that the long end is on the transmission side. In general, the assembly of the carriage occurs in the reverse order.

The bearing on the other side is inserted the other way around, framed into the glass. Cups are lubricated from the inside, and then dressed. It is necessary to tighten until the axial play is completely eliminated. In this case, the rotation of the shaft should be slightly constrained. As soon as the fixing rings are mounted, the cup will move slightly and the axle will spin freely.

It remains to collect the connecting rods. The most important thing here is to put them on so that when pedaling they, God forbid, do not fall off. Procedure for efficient crank assembly:

1. The square is lubricated with a small amount of grease, this will help to put it deeper on the axis.
2. Processing a screw with a thread lock.
3. Tightening the connecting rod nut with maximum force until it stops. You can even lengthen the key - the thread will not break.
4. Plug insert.

A bicycle is an extremely unstable unit, so it must be carefully fixed when carrying out any repair work. The frame will not dangle back and forth, which will eliminate the risk of the bike falling on your feet or hands.

The carriage is assembled and ready for use. In general, the procedure is simple even for the first time, and in the future it will not be difficult at all to disassemble and install the mechanism.

Bicycle pedals are a part that allows the cyclist to set the bike in motion by pressing on them. With the help of pedals and a system of connecting rods, the carriage shaft is set in motion and torque is transmitted through the flail to the rear wheel hub.

The pedals themselves do not affect the speed or control of the bike, but the better the pedals, the more comfortable it is for the rider to pedal. And some modern pedals not only allow you to save energy, but also improve the feel of the bike. Although the design of all existing pedals is generally the same, they can still differ in purpose and types of platforms. Further in the article, we will look at how a bicycle pedal works, what types of pedals are, how they are attached to a bicycle, and what sizes they are.

Pedal device - hub, axle, platform and bearings

The device of a bicycle pedal is quite simple and we will consider it using the example of a conventional road pedal. Free rotation of the pedal is provided by a sleeve, which consists of a body and an axle. The axle is threaded on both sides for attaching to the connecting rod on one side and screwing a cone with a lock nut on the other. The cone on the connecting rod side is part of the axle. Free rotation is provided by bulk bearings, caged or industrial bearings. The body and lining form the platform of the pedal.

Types of pedals by purpose and types of platforms

• Pleasure - the simplest and cheapest type of pedals. The platform of such pedals is made of plastic. Vulnerable to impact and often break when dropped on their side. The advantage of walking pedals is a penny price, and the higher it is, the stronger the plastic used. The platform of such pedals does not provide normal grip with the shoes, as a result of which the feet can slip off. Touring pedals are used on children's, touring and the cheapest sports bikes.

• Universal - these pedals are suitable for all types of bikes and are used mainly for walking and cross-country. The body of such pedals is made of metal, most often aluminum, which provides good resistance to shock. Almost all bikes average price equipped with these pedals. The platform of the universal pedals is equipped with studs for better grip with shoes.

• - these are the same universal pedals, only better and more reliable. Aluminum is predominantly used as the material. Spikes are often present for better grip, and the area of ​​​​the entire platform is increased. Toptalks are not very suitable for aggressive riding, they are most often used in cross-country and on BMX bikes. The picture below shows professional aggressive pedals with removable cleats.

• - These are pedals that provide excellent foot grip and allow you to not only press the pedals, but also pull them, which solves the problem of dead spots. Touklips pedals have not only the usual platform, but also straps for fixing the legs. The disadvantage of such pedals is the difficulty in quickly releasing the legs. It takes practice to use them effectively. Toe clips are not used in extreme disciplines, but are well suited for hiking and track racing.

• Contact - these are the most modern and technologically advanced pedals, which were the prototype of touklips. Contact pedals have all the advantages of touklips, but at the same time the release of the legs is much easier. Perhaps the only drawback of such pedals is the need for special shoes. These shoes are equipped with special spikes that come with the pedals. These spikes are clipped into a special mechanism on the pedal and thus provide the maximum possible grip. In order to quilt the leg, it is enough to turn the heel. Quilting time is almost instantaneous and after a little training you quickly get used to them. Clipless pedals are the most expensive of all, and special shoes are partly to blame.

• Semi-contact - these are pedals with a regular platform on one side and a contact platform on the other. The advantage of such pedals is that you can first buy the pedals themselves, and buy shoes later.

• Highway - these are the same contact pedals, but optimized for the needs of road bikes, namely, a more rigid and clear mount, reduced weight of the pedal itself. In addition, the area of ​​contact between the pedal and the shoe is significantly increased. Road pedals are always single-sided, this is done to reduce weight due to the complex design of the pedal. All these features make such pedals narrowly focused, so they are used exclusively on road bikes.

• folding - This is an exotic type of pedal and it is extremely rare. Most often, folding pedals are used on folding bikes for ease of transportation and indoor storage. These pedals are very convenient if you store the bike in the apartment, fold the pedals and will not touch them when passing by. The axis of folding pedals is shorter than all other types. Despite the fact that it is short, it must withstand normal loads, so it is most often made of high-strength alloys.

Dimensions, thread and fastening of the pedals.

The size of the pedal depends on the purpose of the bike on which it will be used. There are two threads on the pedal axle, one for attaching the pedal to the crank and the other for adjusting the bearing tightening. For attachment to the connecting rod, it is customary to use the M14-0.1 thread, less often M14-1.25. At the other end of the axis, the thread is most often M7-1; a bearing adjustment cone is screwed onto it. It is worth noting that the thread for attaching the pedal to the crank is versatile. Left - left thread, right - right, this is done so that the pedals do not unscrew during operation.

Thanks to the well-thought-out design, maintenance of Shimano pedals is a pleasure. Moreover, this prolongs their life and reduces the rolling resistance in the bearings, which ultimately affects the efficiency of pedaling.

The following instructions apply to all SPD pedals, road and mountain, as well as Saint, XT and DX models.

What you need to know

Bearings: All Shimano SPD pedals still use loose bearings, so if you have some difficulty with assembling loose bearings, it's best to never completely disassemble the pedals.

Housing material: SPD pedal bodies are made of aluminum alloy or special carbon composite (in premium country versions), so don't worry about any cosmetic damage. It is very difficult to break the insides of the pedals.

Springs: Spiral wound steel springs are probably the main feature of all Shimano SPD clipless pedals. It is impossible to confuse the fastening in them with any other pedals.

axes A: Shimano prefers the stiffness and durability of steel axles. All Shimano SPD pedals use 6mm or 8mm hex or 15mm open end wrenches for installation.

Adjustment screws: All Shimano SPD Clipless Pedals have a 3mm Allen key to adjust release force from the pedals. Everyone will be able to choose the effort to their liking.

To begin with, we will tell you how to conduct an ultra-fast service, and after that we will describe the full service algorithm, do not switch!

Tool:

• 7, 10 and 17 mm wrenches
• Hexagons
• Grease
• Degreaser
• Chain lubricant
• Spline puller (if needed)

Clean the pedals

To avoid the possibility of dirt getting inside the pedal, and to make your work more pleasant, clean the pedals of dirt. You can use a degreaser or hot water with liquid detergent from your kitchen (just don't take too much so that it doesn't fly in from your wife / mom). Ideally, let the pedals dry out or dry them with compressed air from a compressor.

Pull axle

Unscrewing the axle from the pedal body is not difficult at all, use 17mm wrench or a spline puller if you have splined pedals. Be careful! The right pedal has a reverse thread and must be unscrewed clockwise!(Don't use a wrench, I'm just a lazy ass and couldn't find a 17mm wrench).

Clean the axle and its seat

After unscrewing the pedal housing, simply remove it from the axle. If the grease is black, then it's time to change it. Remove old grease and dirt from the axle, and if you are not lazy and have a degreaser or kerosene, then wash the axle in it. After the procedure, thoroughly wipe the pedal with a rag.

Pedal Assembly

Use grease, fill the inner cavity of the pedal body with it, and return the axle to its place. Tighten the axle, taking into account the direction of the thread. The case has a mark with the direction and the inscription TIGHTEN, but if you have it erased, then know that the axis is twisted clockwise for the left and counterclockwise for the right.

Grease will come out of the slots between the body and the axle, don't worry, this is normal. If dirty grease comes out, then clean grease squeezes it out, and that's good! Repeat the procedure with filling the cavity of the pedal body with grease until clean grease comes out. This will mean that you have almost completely replaced the old grease.

Don't forget to tighten the axle to the required torque (10Nm). If you don't have a torque wrench, then know that you don't have to go too far. Just screw the axle into the pedal body with the required force.

Lubricate the spring

It's good to lubricate the spring that holds the spike from your boot to the pedal. Great for chain lube. Don't overdo it and don't use a lot of lube, you don't want that extra dirt sticking to the pedal, right?

clean threads

Clean the threads in the crank and on the pedal axle with a degreaser. And do not forget to lubricate it, you do not want the pedal to boil?

Complete disassembly of the pedal

Now let's talk about the complete analysis of the axis itself. If you have a backlash, or you suspect that the bearings are already quite worn out and want to check it, then you should completely disassemble the axle.

Loosen the locknut

Using a 7mm wrench, unscrew the lock nut, and then with a 10mm wrench, unscrew the cone that holds the bulk bearings on the axle and regulates their preload.

Visually assess the condition of the bearings. Be careful! If you take hold of the sleeve in which the bearings are installed, then most likely they will fly loose from it. Nothing holds them inside the bushing, and the bearing balls themselves are located both at the adjusting cone and on the opposite side, where this bushing meets the axle itself. If the bearings still run away, then use the method described in paragraph 8 of the article “How to eliminate pedal play” Alternately assemble the “inner” part of the bearing first, and then the outer one.

Eliminate backlash

Lubricate the bearing and tighten the adjusting cone so that the bearing rotates freely around the axis, but does not play. Secure the result with a locknut.

Assemble the pedal

Go back to " Pedal Assembly and complete the repair.

Additional life hacks

The axle nut on older and budget models of Shimano SPD pedals can be made of nylon and can be disassembled using the special tool TL-PD40 instead of the usual 17mm wrench. Use it if you want to disassemble the pedal.

If your shoes do not pedal well, then find the place on the sole where exactly the “conflict” occurs. More often than not, it's some sort of rubber spike that's preventing you from buckling up properly. Using a sharp blade, remove part of the thorn until you are satisfied with the result.

To prevent the mechanism that holds the spike from the boot into the pedal from creaking, regularly lubricate it with a lubricant containing paraffin. You can use the same lubricant for your chain. We already wrote about its advantages in the research article "".

Bicycle pedals are the most important mechanism that provides not only reliable support for the biker, but also transfers the energy of mechanical movement. This mechanism converts the reciprocating motion (piston) into torque.

It is the expression “pedaling” that not only most accurately conveys not only the biomechanics of the movement of a bicycle, but also simply replaces the words “I went for a ride”.

Parts of a bicycle pedal

Whatever the innovations of this node, the main components remain unchanged:

• Axis. Attention! The pedals are the only bike assembly that has symmetrical threads, with which the axle is firmly screwed into: right for the right and left for the left. If the thread is of the same name, then sooner or later one of the pedals will unscrew by itself and fall. In conventional bikes, the axle is made of simple steel, but chrome-molybdenum or chrome-vanadium is better.
• Actually the body on which the shoe sole rests. It is the case that provides inexhaustible food for designers and allows the bicycle pedal to look beautiful and unique.
• Bearings provide easy rotation of the pedal body around the axis.

Classification

The pedals on the bike only to the uninitiated look seem the same. In fact, they are divided both by purpose and by design. To choose the right pedals, you need to know their main types:

Ordinary pleasure

The name "walking" is not entirely correct. Rather, they should be called “auchan pedals” by analogy with “auchan bikes”. As a rule, they are included in the package of the cheapest bicycles. Made up of 100% plastic. They often split when hitting an obstacle, have a small area, do not have a good "aggressive" relief or spikes, which is why the foot often slips off. By and large, these are not pedals at all, but a “temporary hut”.

Pedals for a mountain bike, or mountain bike (MTB)

These pedals are of higher quality, able to last for many years and go thousands and tens of thousands of kilometers if you do not use aggressive riding styles. They are lightweight, based on aluminum alloys. Their second, everyday name is "toptalki". And this is the right word: they literally “tread on”, different parts of the sole are loaded without fear, standing on them “screw” up the hill (after all, they are for mountain bike). They have reliable wavy protectors around the perimeter, sometimes spikes.

Elite, the best mountain bike pedals should meet the following criteria: have the right shape and thoughtful clutch and mounting system, reliable bearings that can and should be changed, shock-resistant platform and balanced weight. For example, the Burgtec Penthouse MK4 model pictured below is a masterpiece, costing up to £150 for 1 pair (13 thousand rubles).

Contact pedals

The popularity of contact pedals is very high. They have a clip-on mechanism and are light and compact, but they require special cycling shoes. Contacts are fastened to shoes in two ways, there are two fastening systems, Look and SPD.

Contact pedals are needed primarily in order for the foot to work with great efficiency. With normal pedaling, only when you press the pedal, work is done, and the rise to complete a new cycle is done due to the work of the second leg.

When riding in contacts, the foot works in both phases, when lifting, it pulls the pedal up, or, what is the same, helps to press the second leg. In addition, the knee is unloaded, and when jumping in cross-country, the bike is fixed.

The Look mounting system is used by road racing pros. The thing is that the leg is very rigidly fixed according to the “insert and forget” principle, but you can not unfasten it so quickly. If you have a track in front of you without obstacles and oncoming traffic, this system is for you.

The SPD mounting system was developed by one of the bicycle leaders, Shimano. Perfect compromise for a hybrid road bike and mountain bike.

Quality contacts should not come off when climbing uphill if you stand on straight legs, but if there is the slightest threat of falling, the feet should be released as quickly as possible.

Semi-contact

Finally, there are compromise semi-contact pedals. On one side there is a contact plate on the surface, on the other side there is a regular pedal surface.

Touklipsy

Good old touklips, that is, straps. Although they lose to contact and semi-contact in fixation, they are better than usual. Their cost is lower than contact ones. They can be used by enthusiasts on both track, touring and mountain bikes.
The second argument of deadly power belongs to cyclists with shoes in size 49-51. In Russia, and even abroad, it is extremely rare to buy cycling shoes with contacts for these sizes.

It is enough to equip the pedals with a reliable swivel mechanism, and ordinary toptals turn into folding ones. The purpose of folding pedals is the convenience of transporting and storing the bike. As you can see in the photo, it's hard to find good folding pedals with aggressive treads. Therefore, it is easier to use them while walking.

How to remove and change pedals

In order to remove the pedals, unlike the carriage assembly, various tools can be used: an adjustable wrench, a regular 15 mm open-end wrench, a special pedal wrench. When using an adjustable wrench, pay attention to its thickness: the distance between the pedal mount and the pedal itself is small.

Rules to know when changing pedals:

• You need to change so that the wheels touch the ground. If the bike is “on the butt”, you can confuse how to name the pedals: right (from the side of the stars), left - on the other side.
• Which way to turn? The right one must be unscrewed like a normal thread - counterclockwise, and the left one - on the contrary, must be unscrewed clockwise.
• It is necessary to screw in the pedals, remembering the different threading. The left pedal is screwed in counterclockwise.

Maintenance

The pedal assembly is one of the most loaded, so it is advisable to check the condition of the bearings every season. Both no-load and under-load rotation should be easy. Under load - no backlash along and across the axis, no crunch and creak. Full service is as follows:

• disassembling the assembly, cleaning the pedals from old grease and dirt;
• changing bearings and filling places with bearing grease;
• lubrication of nodes.

In conclusion, it should be said that engineering thought does not stand still, and in order to increase the coefficient useful action bike and increase speed, a prototype bike has been developed that uses the power of the hands, that is, it has conventional pedals and hand levers.

The figure shows a prototype of a bicycle that uses the power of a foot and hand drive for movement, created by the Dutch specialists from TSG Essempio. As they say, even in such a simple topic as bicycle pedals, there is no limit to perfection.

Edited: 04/19/2019

A situation has arisen that it is necessary to unscrew the pedals from the bike, but you don’t know how to do it correctly. Let's see how to perform this operation quickly and easily.

When you may need to remove bicycle pedals

• For Maintenance. For example, a crunch or creak appeared and they need to be cleaned and lubricated.
• When replacing old pedals with new ones, or replacing cranks.
• When packing the bike in a bag or to reduce the space it takes up when transporting in transport.
• When preparing a bike for. Again, to minimize the space occupied by the bike
• How . The method is very effective - well, where will you go on such a bike. Here the trick is that they should be removed easily and simply. The tool for this and a small bag in which the removed pedals will be folded should always be with you in. You don't have to wear them all the time.

The peculiarity of the pedals is that they have symmetrical threads.

Each of them must be labeled: which is left and which is right. Usually these are the English letters L - Left (left) and R -Right (right), respectively, for the left and right pedals.

The left pedal is always manufactured with a left hand thread. This means that it twists counterclockwise and unscrews clockwise.

On the right - the usual right-hand thread. Screws in clockwise and unscrews counterclockwise.

This is done so that when the pedals are twisted while the bike is moving, they do not unscrew.

It's easier to remember the rule: the pedals are unscrewed against the direction of the bicycle - turn to rear wheel, but twist in the direction of travel - twist to front wheel.

What tool to remove the pedals

• Open end wrench 15 mm
• Various, which have a 15 mm key.
• Wrench.
• Some models are removed and installed with 6/8/10 mm hex keys
• There are special pedal wrenches that combine a 15mm open-end wrench and hex wrenches in one tool.

When using an adjustable wrench, be sure to pay attention to its thickness. The fact is that the distance between the pedal mount and the connecting rod is not large, and not every adjustable wrench will fit through there. Some types of these wrenches come with thin jaws that can be used. Open-end wrenches or special pedal wrenches are great for this operation.

How to remove the pedals

1. This is best done when the bike is on wheels. Why? The fact is that sometimes it takes quite a lot of effort to unscrew it and you have to use the mass of the whole body. This is easier to do with the bike standing on wheels than when hanging from a rack.
2. Removing the right pedal. To do this, it is best to put the right crank in the 3 o'clock position: the crank is horizontal to the ground and turned towards the front wheel. Given that the right pedal has a regular thread, unscrew her like a regular thread - counterclock-wise.
3. Then remove the left pedal. We put the left crank in the 9 o'clock position. It is again horizontal to the ground and turned towards the front wheel. Remember that the left pedal has a left-hand thread and, unscrew it clockwise.

If the thread on the axis has "become stuck" to the connecting rod and is not removed

• You can apply WD-40 to the junction for 10-15 minutes and try to unscrew it again.
• If WD-40 is not available, you can use other means (analogues of WD-40) or, for example, kerosene (you need to wait 2-3 hours).
• If after that it is difficult to unscrew - try increasing the length of the lever. Just take a longer key or put a metal pipe on it to increase the shoulder (the law of Archimedes has not yet been canceled).
• Some cyclists offer another way. At the junction of the axle and the connecting rod, water is gradually poured from a boiled kettle, causing the metal to warm up a little and because of this, reduce the density of planting. Personally, I have not tried this option and it seems to me that a boiling water temperature of 90-100 degrees will not heat up the connecting rod very much, although it will wash for sure.

  It is more logical to try to warm up this place with a building hair dryer or a powerful soldering iron. When working with a hair dryer, heat exactly the junction of the axle and crank and monitor the temperature of the pedal body, especially if it is plastic.

  It is definitely not worth warming up this place with an open fire.

• To be honest, you can also try and hit the key several times with a hammer to at least move the thread off the dead center. It is useless to strike on the pedal itself and, moreover, on the connecting rod - just bend them.

How to put a pedal on a bike.

One more little tip.

How to check the pedal

It is advisable to check the condition of the pedals, their tightening, the absence of play and the condition of the body before each trip. You can just stand with your foot on it, and then, spinning, look and listen to how it spins on the axis. If there is no visual beating and extra sounds - everything is fine, you can go.

Remember, if during the movement the pedal is unscrewed, broken or lost, it is unlikely that you will be able to go somewhere, and the risk of injury is quite high.

Video about replacing bicycle pedals.