How to put a bearing on a speed bike. Rear hub types

In this video, I will show you a self-repair of a bicycle: namely, the replacement of bearings (Replacing the axle on a bicycle), on the axle of the rear wheel hub mountain bike, for industrial

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Bushing and axle. Hubs are an important and precise element in a bicycle. It is the third largest braking force (after air resistance and tire friction). Which, however, can become the first, if the sleeve is not taken care of at all.
Basically, there are two types of bushings, bulk and industrial bearings.
Bulk bearing bushings are more common and cheaper. The principle of operation is simple, the picture shows how it works. “Cones” are attached to the axis, which press the bearings to the “Cups”. The cones are secured in place with a lock nut. On the cone, there is an anther, which prevents water and dirt from entering the bushing. But everything is wonderful only in theory, in real life, the boot only holds the dirt in for some time. The better the boot, the longer it will last.
Such bushings sometimes need to be completely sorted out about once a season / two. It is necessary to use a thick lubricant, and it is better not to save it, the slots in the anther are just clogged with grease.
One-piece is more reliable both in terms of fracture strength and reliability of fixation in dropouts. In addition, there are, and are actively used by representatives extreme species skating, axles of large diameter, which are practically a hollow tube. Under such axes, it is necessary to use special forks, and for the rear wheel, it is necessary to initially manufacture a frame with a larger seat in the dropouts. Of course they also require a bushing designed for such an axle. Installing a semi-integrated steering wheel on industrial bearings. Replacing a soured bottom bracket on a bike! This is a cap! KT-305 how a sleeve with a foot brake works, maintenance, mechanism arrangement. Modernization of Auchan bike. Installation of promotions - successful or not? Rear wheel of a bicycle. Bearing lubrication. Wheel setup. How to choose tires for a bicycle? 26 wheels on an industrial-industrial bearing. A secret that not everyone knows. Bushing with foot brake! FROM DIRT TO PRINCE AFTER 10 YEARS OF Idle Time! | BIKE RECOVERY. Brazier for 1 hour 30 min Homemade BBQ Smoker. Bicycle rear hub repair. How to replace an open bottom bracket with cage bearings with a bottom bracket with industrial bearings. spoke wheel, how to spoke wheel. Lesson. Bike. How to knit, knit, insert, dial, replace, spokes on a bicycle wheel with 36 spokes. Replacement for eternal bearings in the bicycle carriage.

Some prefer cars, while others are more fond of two-wheeled vehicles, in particular bicycles. It is not necessary to purchase a helmet for them, as with motorcycles, you do not need a license, registration certificate and other documents. But there is something that unites them all - the need for repair. And often lovers of active or extreme sports are faced with the need to repair the rear hub of a bicycle.

Experienced bikers prefer to make repairs on their own. This allows not only to save money, but also to gain additional skills that have never interfered with anyone. Although a bicycle is not such a complex structure as a motorcycle or even a car, nevertheless, not everyone will be able to quickly disassemble it and then assemble it correctly.

What is the wheel made of?

The wheel of any classic bicycle consists of the following components:

• bushings;
• spokes;
• rims;
• tires.

The sleeve is the central part, due to which the torque is carried out. Brakes are usually attached to it. From a constructive point of view, the device of the rear hub of a bicycle is somewhat more complicated than the front one. In addition, not every product can be disassembled by yourself, as some bushings require special tools and equipment. In addition, certain knowledge and skills are required. Typically, the hub is connected to the rim by means of spokes, which gives rigidity to the wheel structure.

Varieties of bicycle bushings

A high-quality and reliable hub is able to minimize friction while the bike is moving. This, in turn, leads to improved rolling performance. There are a variety of bushings, depending on a particular characteristic:

• location;
• fixation method;
• brake type;
• used raw materials;
• the number of spokes;
• dimensions.

For two-wheelers Vehicle In addition to the front, there is also a rear hub of the bike. Moreover, the first one is simpler, since it is only responsible for fastening and rotating the wheel. A ratchet and a cassette are still attached to the rear hub. There are only two ways to fix the bushings. The first of them is the simplest and at the same time the cheapest - only two nuts for a 16 wrench. Another way is even simpler, but already more expensive - using an eccentric. To remove the wheel, you need to pull the handle of the mechanism. The process takes place in a matter of seconds. Eccentrics are used in the manufacture of almost any modern bicycle.

As for the brake system, some bike rear hubs are only compatible with V-brake rim brakes. There are bushings for drum type brakes. But these days, this phenomenon is very rare and does not occur on every city bike. The more reliable the sleeve, the longer its life. But there are some peculiarities in the use of each material. Steel structures are inexpensive, but corrode. Aluminum counterparts, on the contrary, are more expensive, but more resistant to rust. Thus, it all comes down to financial possibilities.

The number of wheel spokes, according to the common standard, can be 32 or 36. A lower number makes the wheel lighter but less rigid. Conversely, the more spokes, the heavier and stronger the wheel. It is important that both the rim and the hub are designed for the same number of spokes.

Regarding the size of the bushings - it all depends on their diameter. The larger it is, the stronger the part, but the weight will also be greater. The diameter of the rear hub of a standard bike is 9 or 10 mm. For more intensive and extreme use of two-wheeled vehicles, products with a diameter of 14-15 mm are suitable. As for the length, for the front bushings it is 108-110 mm. While the rear ones are longer - from 135 to 146 mm.

When is bushing repair necessary?

It is unlikely that someone will take it into their heads just to take and remove the wheel. Unless only to a person who specializes in disassembling bicycles. In all other cases, there must be a reason, since it is better not to meddle in a working mechanism once again. The following manifestations can serve as a sign of a malfunction of the bushing itself:

• Wheel play is noticeable while the bike is in motion.
• In some cases, a characteristic crunch is heard, which indicates worn bearings.
• The unsteadiness of the bushing body and the publication of a roar by it when driving.
• Deterioration of rolling dynamics.

Looseness and scrolling of the rear wheel hub housing of the bicycle, in fact, is not a particular problem. In this case, it is enough to tighten the fasteners. However, you should not overdo it (which sometimes happens), because if the nuts are tightened too tight, the wheel will be much more difficult to rotate. Bearing failure is easily determined by the deterioration of the degree of rolling and extraneous sounds. Sometimes this may indicate a lack of lubrication or its complete absence.

Common fault

The most common problem with a bicycle rear wheel hub is loosening or tightening. Weakening leads to wheel play, which over time, if no action is taken, can increase. As a result, this can lead to deformation, both of the bushing itself and of the wheel.

With a strong tightening of the cone of the rear sleeve speed bike his movement will be largely hampered. It is possible that in this case the bearings may begin to make a crunch, which is not good. In some cases, the bushing may be bent or completely broken. For the most part, this happens due to low-quality parts, and the only way to solve the problem is to replace it with a reliable option.

Maintenance

Just like cars, bicycles also need regular maintenance. This applies to all parts and bushings in particular. It is advisable to inspect it every two thousand kilometers. However, here, unlike four-wheeled vehicles, there is nothing to measure the distance traveled. Therefore, in the case of active driving, scheduled diagnostics should be carried out at least once every three months. With less intensive use it is possible even less often. If the wheels have not been serviced for a long time, you should not be surprised that soon the bearings of the rear hub of a bicycle with a brake will literally begin to crumble. Regular lubrication of such parts is the key to their long life.

Regular maintenance also includes:

• periodic tightening of the sleeve body so that it does not loosen;
• replacement of bearing balls with a high degree of wear;
• lubrication of all parts without exception from the inside;
• adjust the brake pads if necessary.

Removing an entire wheel is much easier than removing a hub alone, but this is not always necessary. However, when you need to replace the entire body, then you can not do without complete dismantling.

Removing the rear wheel

The whole process can be represented as a simple operation. Just to begin with, you need to remove all attachments that are. Mirrors, flashlights, and other necessary little things and accessories can interfere with work. In addition, you can inadvertently damage them.

Further steps for repairing the rear hub of the bicycle:

• The vehicle is turned upside down, placed on the seat and steering wheel. You can use a special rack for this, or you can do without it, it is important to ensure the bike is in a stable position.
• Next, you need to determine the type of brakes installed. With disc mechanisms, the wheels are removed easily. If this rim brakes V-brake, then you first need to unclench and remove them, otherwise dismantling the wheel is impossible. To unfasten the brakes, you need to move the cable towards the mounting screw and remove it from the clamp. Lowering it down, we spread the pads to the sides.
• Now it is worth paying attention to how it is fixed rear wheel on the axis. If these are nuts, then they are unscrewed with one or two corresponding wrenches. If this is an eccentric mechanism, then it is enough to unscrew the brake lever and twist the wheel.
• In the future, it will be necessary, observing caution and accuracy, to remove the chain.

That's all - the wheel has been dismantled, and now you can proceed to further work on disassembling and assembling the rear hub of the bicycle, servicing and repairing parts.

Repair and maintenance of a bicycle hub

For successful subsequent assembly, it is better to repair the hub on the removed wheel, but without dismantling the spokes. The process steps are as follows:

• The cassette is removed from the axis using a special tool (puller or whip).
• The retaining ring opens.
• Washers and bulk bearings (industrial bearings) are removed. The main thing is to remember the location of the parts, so that later you can assemble it correctly.
• Bearing diagnostics. Defective parts are replaced with new products. If they are not worn out yet, then they should be cleaned of dirt with a solvent.
• Complete axle removal.
• Cleaning the housing from dirt. To do this, use only a soft cloth, wiping each cavity with it.
• Sequential lubrication of all elements is carried out. First, a small amount of substance is distributed along the walls of the housing. Bearings can be lubricated more abundantly.
• The final process of repairing the rear wheel hub of a bicycle. Assembly is done in reverse order, including the installation of the stopper and the tightening of the fasteners.

When tightening the rear wheel hub, do not apply too much force. The bike should move freely, not drag.

Troubleshooting

All detected malfunctions should be immediately eliminated in order to avoid bad consequences. To remove the backlash, you need wrenches. Basically, this is a cone tool for 15 and an open-end wrench for 17. First you need to unscrew the lock nut and then, depending on the situation, loosen or tighten the cone nut. Ideally, there should be no backlash at all. After manipulating the conical fastener, install the locknut in place. ABOUT correct adjustment flare nut will indicate that the wheel turns easily due to the force of gravity perceived by the reflector or nipple.

Caution first and foremost!

It is worth noting that the design of the sleeve provides for many small details. As a rule, they are made of either hardened steel or hardened chromium-molybdenum alloy. This makes the details fragile, so you always need to act with increased attention and accuracy.

When carrying out scheduled repairs and maintenance of the rear hub of the Stealth bicycle, one should not forget about safety precautions. It would be rational to protect your eyes. When making repairs, it is highly not recommended to first remove the wheel spokes. Also, do not use a vise in relation to the bushing and its components.

Rear wheel installation process

Correctly following the reverse order of dismantling will help to correctly install the rear wheel. To do this, we adhere to the following algorithm:

• The chain is put on the smallest sprocket. After that, the wheel is inserted into the mount of the bike body. It is important to ensure that the axle is finally fixed in the grooves of the frame.
• On next step the nuts or eccentrics should be tightened with the necessary force so that the wheel does not then jump out of the frame.
• If the bike uses rim brakes, this is a further step. The main thing is to fasten them strictly in reverse order. Otherwise, the trip will not be so safe.

After completing the installation of the wheel, it is necessary to arrange a small test of the bike in order to check the performance of all parts. Do not neglect the maintenance of all parts and mechanisms of the bicycle. After all, this is the only way to extend their life.

Summing up

How to assemble a bicycle rear hub? The answer is simple: maintenance of an important bicycle part, mainly the back, which is not such a difficult job. Particularly large investments are not required here. However, if you ignore maintenance for a long time, then in the end, the final repair can result in a pretty tidy sum. In some cases, it will be easier to buy a new bike.

One of the most practical and healthy means of transport is the bicycle. However, its maintenance can cost you a pretty penny if you do not know how to repair at least minor breakdowns.

In such cases, it is simply necessary to have skills such as attention to detail and accuracy, since they will help you repair or disassemble any part, for example, the rear hub of a bicycle wheel.

Bicycle rear hub and its device

One of the most important parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front wheel, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and the cassette (sprocket block) are installed. The main focus is on the wheel when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly service it.

Bushing - wheel element, mounted on a bicycle frame, namely on dropaunts. This is the central part of the wheel, ensuring its free rotation.

The sleeve consists of such elements as:

1. Lock-nut.
2. Washer.
3. Cone.

Varieties of rear bicycle bushings, their differences from each other

One of the reasons for dividing the rear bushings into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear bushings are divided into:

1. Without brake.
2. With built-in brakes.

It should be said that bushings that are not equipped with a brake mechanism are also divided into those that are without free play and with free play. With an integrated foot brake, the hubs are designed with free play. If we are talking about the version of the hub with a brake mechanism, then their main feature is that you need to push the pedals in the opposite direction to stop the bike.

According to the fixing method, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or they can be fixed using an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts must be removed with a wrench, and to remove the wheel on the eccentric, it is enough to wring out its handle. It will only take a couple of seconds.

The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:

1. Aluminum(lightweight and non-corrosive).
2. Steel(strong, but heavy and very prone to corrosion).

The bushings also differ in the size of the axis, the standards are different - from 9mm to 15mm. It should be borne in mind that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.

When to Service a Rear Hub

For the correct operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be constantly maintained in good condition. It needs lubrication, and also its body must be periodically tightened. In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake hub will not interfere.

Maintenance of the rear hub is a must, because in cases where this does not happen, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is better to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than the front one.

Service is required in the following cases:

1. If you hear chassis noise when the bike is in motion or wobbles.
2. Backlash.
3. If the bearings are rattling.
4. Bad rolling dynamics.

If you do not pay attention to the signs of "disease" of your bike described above and use it for a long time if they are present, it can quickly fail.

Repair, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple maintenance of the wheel, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for play, and also that the bearings are not too tight.

Case disassembly, cleaning and lubrication

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean workplace, since it is very important to carry out all the steps very carefully and with the utmost care.

Initially, you should remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the retaining ring and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in the details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

If any part is damaged, even the slightest scratch, they should be replaced. Next, you need to pull out the axle, clean the body of dirt with a soft dry cloth, and then proceed to lubricate the parts. We do this as we install the parts in their places.

How to assemble a bicycle rear hub?

After lubrication, it is necessary to assemble the sleeve. To properly assemble the rear hub, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. We insert the axis in such a way as not to confuse which side to be Right side axis, which is fixed tightly. The axle is adjusted using the left cone.
2. Next, put the left cone on the axle until it stops.
3. We put on pucks.
4. We turn the locknut.
5. Adjusting bearings.

Rear wheel hub repair. Step-by-step instruction

1. Remove retaining ring.

Most often, repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either with backlash or with a cone constriction. So, step by step instructions:

1. Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace from unnecessary tools, things that will not be useful to you.
2. Loosen the locknut with a wrench.
3. Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
4. Tighten the locknut into place.

If the cause of the breakdown was a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:

1. After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
2. Remove the axle shaft. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.
3. Checking parts for defects.
4. We replace the broken part.
5. We install all the parts in place, tighten the flare nuts and locknut.

Causes of breakdowns

Bicycle wheel failure occurs different reasons. There may be a large number of them.

Bearings are special parts for maintaining the performance and fixing of rotating units. Their scope applies to everything where there is rotation and mating. The bicycle did not stand aside, because, in fact, it is a full-fledged transport with all its features.

Bearings for a bicycle are installed in all its parts that rotate, change position and are under load. They can be found in the device of the drive mechanism - the carriage, wheel hubs, and more complex devices - ratchets, switches, rear shock absorbers.

Types of bicycle bearings

According to the type of construction, parts are divided into two types: rolling and sliding.

Rolling bearings are two mating parts with grooves into which rolling elements are inserted - balls. Their uniform distribution minimizes friction in the assembly and, accordingly, extends the life of the entire bearing. Fixing the position of the balls is provided by special partitions - separators. Simple parts without baffles will require more frequent adjustment.

Separated ball bearing

They are used on a bicycle in mobile units where high resistance to abrasion and pressure loads is required and slippage is not allowed - steering column, bushings, bottom bracket. They can also be installed in complex mechanisms - shock absorber hinges and switch rollers.

Plain bearings are ballless parts. They are two elements, the rotation of which occurs relative to each other tangentially. Materials for manufacturing - bronze, steel alloys, metal-plastics and all that have a low coefficient of friction.

Compared to rolling bearings, they are less resistant to abrasion, since the two parts interact directly with each other. Wear provokes the appearance of a gap that causes play. Because of this, periodic replacement of the entire assembly or worn components, as well as adjustment, is more often required.

This type is used in carriage units of budget models, on switch rollers

Rolling bearings on bicycles are divided into two types: cone-cup and industrial.

The first - bulk bearings - open-type parts. Represented by a cup in which balls are distributed along the groove, fixed with a flare nut. The body is pressed directly into the part itself - steering column or carriage glass.

Industrial bearings are closed parts, fully inserted into the movable unit. This is their fundamental difference from bulk. The system is protected from moisture and dirt, resulting in a longer service life compared to cone-cup designs.

Advantages of bulk type rolling bearings:

• ease of removal and installation;
• can be adjusted in the field;
• it is permissible to change the components individually.

Disadvantages include frequent adjustment and the need to clean from trapped dust and dirt.

Industrial bearings do not require adjustment, lubrication and cleaning. The location of the balls, the amount of lubricant in the closed housing are kept constant. Water and abrasive do not get inside the cartridge.

Proms are put on bikes for aggressive riding

However, if the bearing is worn out, it will need to be replaced as a whole. Far from civilization, this is problematic. The price of “promos” is significantly higher compared to the cost of bulk ones.

Separately, it is worth noting ceramic and ceramic-metal bearings. They are fully or partially made of ceramic, which makes them more resistant to corrosion than their metal counterparts. In addition, they are better able to withstand temperature extremes. Parts of this type are installed on high-end bicycles.

Maintenance and replacement of bottom bracket bearings

Periodic cleaning, lubrication and replacement of worn parts will help to avoid sudden problems with the movement of the bike. Signs of a bad carriage condition:

• "Clamps" in the pedals - difficult rotation or cranking;
• connecting rods dangle;
• crunches.

To remove the connecting rods and bottom bracket cups, you will need special tools - pullers and an internal hex wrench. The dismantling process is as follows:
1. Turn over and fix the bike.

2. Unscrew the fixing nuts with a hollow wrench. You can also use a hammer with a chisel, however, the nuts must be knocked out carefully so as not to damage the connecting rods.

3. Using a puller, twist them off the axle. This will take a lot of effort.

4. Remove the cups from the glass with a dolly remover. The cup is first unscrewed from the side opposite to the stars. Then remove the axle.

5. Remove bearings, inspect and replace damaged parts.

6. Clean in kerosene, reinstall and lubricate. When installing, we carefully monitor the position: on the one hand, the bearing is placed with balls outward, on the other - inward.

After replacing, cleaning and lubricating, assemble the carriage in reverse order. After tightening the connecting rods, check their rotation: lack of effort and twists indicate that you need to tighten the cups, and vice versa. In these cases, you will have to repeat the disassembly and adjustment.

Prom bearings are installed immediately, adjustment is not required.

Disassembly and replacement of bearings on the front fork

The wear of the hinge assembly of the fork is manifested in backlash, heavy steering and extraneous sounds from the column. It is not recommended to put off the problem indefinitely, because the serviceability of the steering along with the brakes is a guarantee of safety.

How to change the fork bearing? At first glance, it is not easy to get close to him. The assembly is securely pressed in and hidden in the head tube. However, in practice, everything looks simple:

1. Flip the bike over and unscrew front wheel.
2. Put the bike in the normal position and pull out the handlebars with the extension (you will need a wrench or hex for the inner nut).
3. Unscrew the locknut with an adjustable wrench and remove the lock washer.
4. Unscrew the cup.
5. After dismantling the housing, carefully remove the bearing itself. The parts on the forks of most bicycles are not equipped with separators, so make sure that the balls do not crumble.
6. Inspect all components carefully. Rusty, broken balls must be replaced with new ones.
7. Clean the glass, bearing and cup from dirt, and then thoroughly lubricate.

From left to right: removing the handlebar, locknut and lock washer

Bearing cartridges are completely replaced with new ones. In fairness, it should be noted that partial replacement of bulk hinges is not good for the fork, and it is recommended to install another part as well. When buying a new bearing, you need to know exactly the prescribed dimensions - for different forks they may differ. If they are unknown, the part in the store is selected according to the old one.

The fork is installed in the opposite order: after the bearing is pressed in, the glass is twisted, then the washer and lock nut are thrown on. Checking the tightness of the glass: when the bike is tilted, the front wheel should deviate from the straight position by 15 to 20 degrees. If it practically does not move, it is necessary to loosen the hinge. A large deviation of the wheel indicates a weak tightening, and the glass needs to be tightened.

Wheel hub bearing replacement

The hub is not just the axis of rotation of the wheel. Without the built-in hinge mechanism, the forces on it would be transferred unevenly, and the bike would not be able to move. The same symptoms appear when the bearings are worn.

Disassembling the hub is as easy as disassembling the fork. For the rear wheel, the procedure will be slightly more complicated than for the front, as you will need to first remove the cassette with sprockets. On a single-speed bike, the retaining ring and the sprocket itself are dismantled.

In general, disassembly looks like this:
1. Remove the wheels from the dropouts.

2. Remove the sprockets using a cassette puller and a locking whip. On singlespeed, open the stopper with a screwdriver or a special spreader.

3. Using a 15 wrench, unscrew the fixing nuts. For the rear wheel hub, the nut is unscrewed from the side opposite to the stars.

4. Pull out washers and bearing units. Bulk are moved, industrial ones are replaced with new ones.

5. Clean parts and replace damaged components.

6. Pull out the axles, wipe the internal cavities of the bushings.

Assemble in reverse order. It is important to properly position the bearings and press in the cones, just as it was before disassembly. In no case should distortions be allowed, the parts should evenly fall into their rightful places. When sorting, it is not advisable to change their places. This threatens with backlash and deterioration of the wheel travel.

New bearings are pre-selected according to the old ones - they must be the same as they were before the repair. Lubrication - key moment bulkheads and replacements (in the case of the "mound"). When installing "proms", the assembly itself does not need to be lubricated, only the internal cavities of the bushing and the axle. After installation, we check the performance of the wheels: a smooth ride without play and clamps indicates that the parts are installed correctly.

Conclusion

So, a bicycle bearing, as we found out, is the most important part in every moving unit. Its good condition, timely maintenance and replacement will ensure good driving performance and safety of movement.

Removing the wheels from the frame is a mandatory procedure Maintenance bicycle. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of rim deformations, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear on the sprocket system for the rear wheel.

Experienced cyclists welcome self-repair of wheels, and for good reason: it’s cheaper, and you’ll gain skills. You can also contact a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. Moreover, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated in the wheels of the bike. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame will just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle disassembly. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if such problems are observed:

• noticeable damage to the rim;
• full wear when a wheel replacement is needed;
• deflated tube or burst tire;
• bushing bulkhead.

This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprockets and chain.

Bike tube replacement

Before removing the bike, you need to turn it over and install it on the saddle and handlebars. Canopies in the form of a mirror, a bell and a lantern are best removed in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and removed, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier - you can immediately remove the wheel.

I must say that the removal process itself consists only in turning off the eccentric or unscrewing the fixing nuts from the hub axle, whoever has what. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two keys.

Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the stud axle rotates, then the nuts are untwisted simultaneously in different sides. It is recommended to use an open-end wrench or box wrench. The adjustable version is undesirable, since its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to a loose fit and slip.

Bike tube replacement

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which happens more often with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you will need special mounting blades. Of course, the camera can be pry off with an ordinary screwdriver and even with a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of fittings, the tire is hooked from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it begins to shrink, you need to pry the beads a little further, until there is enough free part of the tire, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged chamber and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole of the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. At the bottom of the rim, there must be a flipper that protects from the points of the spokes. If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.

On top of the rim is put on outer part tires, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, the correct direction of the tread pattern must be taken into account. Arrows are usually drawn on the tires, and when the bike is upside down, the direction forward is backwards in the down position. It's easy to go wrong with a speed mountain bike rear wheel, though, thanks to the cassette on the side. After installation, the chamber is inflated.

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

The hub is one of the parts of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the bike rides worse, then it's time to remove it and inspect the hub.

The main problem with the bushing is play and insufficient bearing lubrication. Due to a misfit or increased friction, parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may even crumble. To gain access to the hub bearings, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The reverse speed device is removed using a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is a short process, but it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. Step by step it looks like this:

1. The puller is inserted into the cassette nut.
2. The large star of the system is held with a whip so that it does not turn.
3. With help wrench the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
4. We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then we remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, slightly loosen the tension of the spokes. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the spokes. It doesn't need to be loosened much, a quarter of a turn is enough. If the bushing needs to be replaced, then the spokes must be untwisted enough to easily pull it out of gear.

A complete replacement of the bushing is required if both the axle and the bearings have become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in a normal state, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.

Diagram of the rear hub of a speed bike

The bulkhead of the axial part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so the best option there will be a replacement.

Assembly and installation of the rear wheel on the bike

High-quality wheel repair is not only disassembly, replacement, lubrication or adjustment. On last step all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the sleeve mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is mounted on the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in this order:

• main stars;
• single stars, small stars;
• tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.

It remains only to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, it remains only to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to pedal and see if the chain runs normally on the stars. We turn the bike over and start riding calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bike will have to face wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel at first can take a lot of time. However, if you remember how important wheels are to a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. Moreover, with experience, the bulkhead of the wheel will take a few minutes.