Lifting technique with the help of jumars. mountain training

To climb the rope, instead of grasping knots (see Fig. 12. ll section "Knots"), special devices are used - clamps. According to the principle of operation, there are bending type clamps and cam clamps. It is also possible to combine both principles in one design (Petzl clamp), as well as the use of other principles (for example, a system with a roller). The material for the manufacture of clamps is light alloys, although for industrial mountaineering they, as well as descenders, can be made of steel. Consider the main types of clamps (Fig. 13-lll).

"Abalaz" (1)- the simplest wire structure of the bending type, created by V.M. Abalakov. Shown here as a prototype of this type of clamps. For

it is not recommended to use it at work at height, as it requires constant attention (there is a danger of the rope jumping out). In addition, in it, as in all bending clamps, the idling is too large, the result is too high energy costs.

Hiebeler system (2) is a combination of the principle of bending and cam. The clamp is more complicated to manufacture, holds more securely, without slipping, but it also has the danger of the rope jumping out. Both of these systems (1 And 2) are given here for historical review rather than as guidelines for use.

Clamp with swivel segment (3)- bending type. Reliability of holding increases due to the rotary segment. Reliable, since the rope, after being inserted into the clamp, is geometrically closed by the cheeks of the clamp and the carabiner. The existing disadvantage - on a stretched rope, an unloaded clamp can go down - can be eliminated if the swivel eccentric is slightly spring-loaded.

Jumar (4)- one of the common types of clamp. It was named after the inventors: the Swiss Juzy and Marty. Type - cam. Easy to handle due to the ease of putting on and taking off the rope, including with one hand. As a rule, it has a comfortable handle. Including under the left and under right hand. According to our custom, having met jumars for the first time many years ago, we now call all similar clamps of any firms (and even jumars) like that. Here we are "Yvanovs".

Floating roller system (5)(designed by O. Dushin) works on a completely different principle than the previous ones: cylinders freely floating in the slots are captured by the rope due to friction and automatically wedged in the cheeks of the clamp located at an angle to each other. If the cylinders are slightly springed from below, then the possibility of slipping the loaded ascender down the rope is eliminated.

The diameter of the rope for this clamp does not play any role. The strength of the clamp is determined by the strength of its body.

Shunt- bending action clamp. Can be used on a double rope, has smooth cams that do not damage the sheath. When working on two ropes, they must have the same diameter.

Croll (Croll)- Petzl clamp (see photo 2 of the color tab). It is attached directly to the ISS (chest harness or harness). Convenient for fixing the rope when descending (located below the descender) and as an insurance and fixation when ascending the rope. Since there is no free flight in case of stall in this arrangement, it can be used without additional insurance devices. Such designs (including those of other companies) are also called chest clamps.

Of course, only the main types of clamps are listed here. There can be many modifications: bending and jamming, detachable and one-piece, with a comfortable handle or only with a working knot, for a single rope or for a double one, etc. When choosing a clamp for work, the following requirements must be considered:

It must be strong enough and reliable (you need to have a certificate for the clamp,
passport or test certificate),

It should not be possible to jump out of the rope clamp,

The cam and all parts in contact with the rope must not have sharp edges,
breaking the sheath of the rope when the clamp is working or when jerking,

In clamps of detachable structures, all parts must be secured to each other.

The scope of clamps is not limited to rope climbing. They are also used in the creation of chain hoist systems for lifting loads, for temporary fixation of a rope, etc. In particular, in fig. 13-ll (pos. 6) shows a device that is a combination of a cam-type clamp with a roller and is designed to pull out loads (Minitraxion, Petzl, for example).

In practice, the question is often asked can lanyard clips be used instead of a grappling knot?

The main danger in mountaineering is rappelling. However, this has to be done very often. Before starting such an operation, all the little things should be taken into account, such as the choice of support, the length of the rope, the height, the possibility of subsequently removing the rope, etc. You need to pay attention to all the little things, and reduce the risk as much as possible.

LOWERING EQUIPMENT

Today, there are a lot of devices for belaying and rappelling. It makes sense to have a device that performs both functions. Modern belay devices are excellent for rappelling, so in this article we will start from the fact that it is very stupid not to have an important detail of our safety.

INDIVIDUAL Descent

Below we will consider the best way for most situations, suitable for most situations. No additional equipment other than standard is required.

• The extension is equipped with 2 carabiners, one is attached to the loop of your harness, and the second to the rope passed through the safety plate.
• Make sure the free end of your rope is on the bottom of the plate. Attach a French Prusik to this end, subsequently connecting its loop to the trigger loop with another carabiner below the extension carabiner. (It is written about nodes
• Keep the prusik loose as you move your hand, release the knot as needed to stop. For additional control of the descent with the other hand, the free end of the rope can be passed between the legs.

Italian wash knot with a loose carabiner over it

DESCENT USING THE ITALIAN BLEED KNOT

The method will be useful if you drop the belay plate, or in conditions when the rope freezes and "hardens" to such a state that it will not be possible to set it into the belay device. You need to use a triangular carabiner, which provides a smooth descent.

■ Descending the double rope, tie both ends into one large Italian knot and fasten into a carabiner. Be sure to control the lower end so that it does not fall on the latch of the carabiner and unscrew the coupling. Fasten the carabiner to the loop in the opposite direction from your leading hand (if the hand is right, then fasten the carabiner with the latch to the left) and then the end of the rope will go around the solid side of the carabiner without touching the latch.

SEQUENTIAL DESCENT

The principle is that the leader of the group controls the descent of less experienced members from below. The main advantage of this method is that on the route you, as the leader, descend first and equip an intermediate position.

When considering this method, we will proceed from the presence of two inexperienced members of the group and omit the details of ensuring safety at stops.

All three descenders are attached to a rope. The first two at the support are for beginners. Buckle up to your descender and belay device as usual. Fasten on the other two devices in a loop about a meter long and fasten to the loops of beginners. Then start descending.

Under the weight of your body, the rope will be taut and the beginners' descenders will be blocked. After you descend and ensure your own safety, the first of the beginners can begin the descent. Belay the descender without pulling on the rope, so as not to hamper movement and allow the person to control the speed of descent. At the same time, keep an eye on him and be ready at any time to pull the rope and stop the descent. After the first one descends, the second beginner can start in the same way.

EMERGENCY Descent

There may be a situation (darkness, worsening weather, wrong path, feeling unwell, etc.) in which you need to return from the slope. The procedure is described point by point in a logical sequence. In such a situation, climbers use a single rope.

• The second in the chain gets to the position with loop protection at the anchor point with the Italian bleed knot.
• An anchor point is provided.
• Climbers with the help of loops passed through the strapping with the lark's foot are fixed on the support.
• The original safety system is removed.
• One of the climbers unties the rope and passes it over the new pivot point until the middle mark appears.
• The untethered person clamps the rope in the hook, while the second one unties his harness.
• Knots are tied at the ends of the rope, the rope is wound around the hand and thrown down.
• The first descender fastens the descender and the safety device on the rope, collects excess equipment, unfastens the lanyard loop from the support, hangs it on the harness from behind and starts the descent.
• Descending to the next position and remaining strapped to the descent rope, he prepares the next foothold.
• Then he fastens to a new fulcrum through a loop on the harness and removes the descender and safety devices from the rope. Now he can help his partner down. loosely holding the ends of the rope.
• The second one descends in the same manner and, upon arrival, fastens to the fulcrum and removes the descender and safety device from the rope.
• The knots at the ends of the rope are untied.
• One end of the rope is pulled through the fulcrum and the rope is pulled down to the middle mark.
• The rope at the level of the mark is clamped by one of the partners at the fulcrum, and the other pulls the second end.
• Then knots are tied again at the ends of the rope, the ends are dropped to the next position, and the descent resumes.

SECURITY MEASURES

A safety prusik is tied under and over the descender. It is necessary to take into account the mechanics of the system. If the knot is under the device, it is the latter that bears most of the person's weight, and the knot simply holds the rope at a safe 180° angle for maximum braking. If the prusik is placed above the descender, the entire ascender's weight is on the knot, and the device is unloaded. The problem in this case is that the person is suspended from a 6mm cord, and in the event of a tug, the French Prusik can slip off. If, in order to avoid slipping, the Clemheist prusik is used in this situation and it turns out to be loaded, then it will be almost impossible to loosen it again.

Thus, the top location of the regulating unit is only possible when using the Italian bleed unit. In this case, if the Prusik is placed under the bleached knot, the latter will be held open with the ends of the rope at an angle of 180°, that is, in the position of least friction.

At the point of support

In case of organizing an emergency descent, it is advisable to have something with you from which it will be possible to equip a fulcrum. It can be a couple of old loops or pieces of tape. In the most extreme case, it will be possible to cut off a small piece from the main rope with a knife. It is not required to hang a carabiner on a fixed loop, and this is the only case when it is allowed to thread the main rope directly into the loop, that is, its contact with another element of soft equipment. During the descent, the rope will be in a static state. When you pull the rope, it will rub against the loop, generating heat, but the loop will heat up, not the rope.

For this reason, never use rope or ribbon loops found on slopes. It is possible that they were used for emergency descent and therefore may be extremely unreliable.

Tying the ends of the rope

The ends of the rope should be tied in one knot or another to avoid blocking the descent. It is best to use cloverleaf knots. As a result, any twists that form during the descent will be eliminated through the ends, and not be collected in huge knots and weaves, which can happen if the ends of the rope are tied.

Rope tying

If two ropes are used to descend, or if the rope has been damaged by a falling rock, you will need to tie the two ends together. You can use a double fishing knot. The knot tends to tighten under load, so you can first tie the ropes with a reef knot, and then with a fishing knot. The reef knot will not allow the entire bunch to go astray and overtighten. On the other hand, each of these knots is quite voluminous and, when the rope is pulled out, it can catch on stones.

The method we recommend is simpler, although perhaps a little intimidating. Bring the ends of the ropes together and. leaving the tails about 45 cm long, knot the cloverleaf and tighten. When pulling the rope from below, the knot itself will turn with its flat side to any obstacle and the likelihood of its snagging will be less. It is clear that the knot should be at the end of the rope for which you will pull it in order to remove it from the fulcrum.

Dropping the rope

This simple action takes on special significance in the presence of wind or when the rope has to pass through a narrow crevice. Leaving two or three meters of the rope free from the side of the fulcrum, do not lay it in the bay, but wind it on your hand, laying turns crosswise. Remove the skein from your elbow, intercept it in the central part and throw it with force to where you intend to go down. Coiling the rope is better than laying it, because in this case, as the rope unwinds, it does not get tangled.

The position of the rope at the fulcrum

It would seem a small, but extremely important detail. When pulling the rope, pull on the end that comes out from under the loop on the support. In this case, the rope does not press either the loop or the carabiner against the rock, it is subjected to minimal friction, and you special efforts bring it back to you.

Zhumar is a device for climbing a rope.
Officially, this piece of iron is called "clamp", but the term "jumar" is popularly accepted, after the name of the first manufacturer.
Its purpose is to move up and not move down.
For beginners, the clamp is the second most important tool. The first is the head.

Remember:
Do not allow the jumar with which you are attached to the rope to be below the level of the belt. Is it dangerous.

- I do not do that!
- You are well done. But read the article, it contains useful numbers.

If a load weighing 80 kg is tied to a piece of dynamic rope 60 cm long and dropped, it will create a load of 5.7 kN. And if the load is dropped from the same height, but on self-insurance from Dyneema, then the load will be 16.7 kN.
That is, if the jumar is attached to a mustache made of rope, then it will probably remain intact, and if it is attached to a sling from Dyneema, it will break. We recently wrote about loads in an article.

As experiments show, clamps do not wait for destruction. With a load of 6 kN, they tear the sheath off the rope. Different clamps do this under different loads. The old Petzl in the video breaks the braid at a load of 6.14 kN, and the Vento clamps at 5.4 kN.
The most "kind" in relation to the rope proved to be grasping knots. They break the braid at a load of 12 kN. There is a good article about grasping knots at Risk.ru - grasping knots at Risk.

Zhumar - climb the rope and open the beer

Zhumar is a device for climbing a rope. Officially, this piece of iron is called "clamp", but the term "jumar" is popularly accepted, after the name of the first manufacturer. Its purpose is to move up and not move down. For beginners, the clamp is the second most important tool. The first is the head.

Consider the strength of the clamps and the errors in their use.

Remember:
Do not allow the jumar with which you are attached to the rope to be below the level of the belt. Is it dangerous.
This happens if you climb along the railing, and move the clamp "for safety net". This is usually justified with the phrase: “It’s easier for me!”.

You can not do it this way!

I do not do that!
- You are well done. But read the article, it contains useful numbers.

In the passport for Petzl clamps, the maximum load is indicated - 4–6.5 kN, for Ropeman from Wild Country - 4 kN, and Vento speaks of a maximum load above 550 kg.

If a load weighing 80 kg is tied to a piece of dynamic rope 60 cm long and dropped, it will create a load of 5.7 kN. And if the load is dropped from the same height, but on self-insurance from Dyneema, then the load will be 16.7 kN. That is, if the jumar is attached to a mustache made of rope, then it will probably remain intact, and if it is attached to a sling from Dyneema, it will break. We recently wrote about loads in the article “Comparison of loops from nylon and Dyneema”.

We thicken the colors. Rope dynamics (even static), knot tightening, relief and softness human body make the load on the clamp less. We don’t have data to what extent, but we don’t want to check for ourselves.

Due to aggressiveness, conventional clamps are not used in rescue work.

If you have to climb a diagonal railing, secure the clamp with a carabiner.
Insert it into the hole at the top of the clip:

Or pass the rope through the carabiner on which the jumar hangs:

Manufacturers (in particular Petzl) allow both methods.

When moving, do not rest the clamp against the knot on the rope. In this case, you will spend extra time trying to remove it. Due to its structure and main function (to go up and not to go down), the jumar will get stuck in place. To remove, push it forward a little and open the cam.

We will not touch on the technique of movement on the jumar in this article. Note that they climb the rope in different ways:

• On one jumar
  On two:
  
  • Hand leg
  • leg to leg
  • Chest-leg
• Using gripping knots
• With the use of a semi-automatic belay device (Gris-Gris and similar) in combination with a grappling knot/clamp

You can also open a beer with a clip.

Methodical material, developed as a teaching aid for teaching the technique of rope access at the Training Center "Industrial Mountaineering".

Methodological material developed as a teaching aid for teaching the technique of rope access in Training Center "Industrial mountaineering". Author: Anton Yuriev ( Rescuer's Notes)

Important

• It is necessary to constantly ensure that all carabiners are sleeved and loaded along the main axis;
• The descender placed on the rope must always be locked when the free end of the rope is not held in the hand;
• Keep hair and loose clothing out of the descender and other moving equipment;
• Do not allow the possibility of high dynamic loads (breakdown) on the hand and chest clamps;

• Need to constantly monitor right position safety device;
• The mustache of the belay device should not be held at hand;
• By attaching the belay device first and removing it last, the employee eliminates the possibility of forgetting about insurance;

Individual equipment

Whiskers are made from dynamic rope (EN 892 single rope). They are tied into the abdominal point of the strapping with eight knots or a conductor. At the ends are barrel knots, figure eight or conductor. Long mustaches should be such that the worker, hanging on them, can reach out to the carabiner with his hand. The length of the short mustache should be such that its carabiner almost reaches the chin.

Devices

The ASAP belay device is attached to the chest point, and the worker's harness is connected with an Absorbica or Asap'sorber. Attached to the ASAP shock absorber is an OK Triact-Lock carabiner.

The descender is attached to the ventral harness. The carabiner must be positioned in such a way that during the descent, the latch is on the side of the worker. The axis of the latch must be on the side of the trigger.

A hand clip is attached to a long mustache.

The pedal is attached with a separate carabiner to the carabiner of the manual clamp. The length of the pedal is chosen in such a way that with a fully extended leg, the hand clamp is directly above the chest.

Installing the rope in the descender (SU)

a) Storage, transportation
b) Blocking
c) Descent
d) Panic trigger position (for ID)
e) Partner insurance

Rope descent

The descent is carried out by etching the rope through the SS. The speed of descent is controlled by the holding force of the free end of the rope. During the descent, do not let go of the hand holding the free end of the rope. To start the descent, move the SU handle to the descent position and gently press it.

The descent should be smooth, without jerks, maximum speed- 2 m/s.

When descending along the wall, rest against the wall with your legs slightly bent at the knees.

Stop

Slowly release the handle to stop. To free both hands, move the handle to the lock position. Do not let go of the free end of the rope until the device is locked.

Relief from hanging on a belay device

Exceeding the permissible speed of descent leads to the operation of the belay device. In this case, the device will be fixed on the rope, and will be loaded with the weight of the worker.

Actions when hovering on a belay device during descent

1. Remove the weight from the belay device: to do this, install a hand clamp on the working rope and get up on the pedals or climb up the rope on the descender;
2. Unlock and lower down the belay device;
3. Continue the actions interrupted by hanging on the belay device;

This method is used for climbing short distances. For longer distances, use the clamp lift.

1. Unlock SU if it is locked;
2. Get on the pedals, at the same time taking out the slack in the rope through the SS. Own weight rises with the leg, not with the pull-ups on the arms. The body is parallel to the rope;
3. Transfer weight to SS;
4. Repeat steps 2-4 until the goal is reached;

For ease of climbing, it is allowed to pass the rope coming out of the landing gear through a carabiner or a roller attached to a manual clamp.

Attaching Clamps to Rope

lifting technique

1. Raise the hand ascender on the rope as high as possible while performing a yielding bend with the foot inserted into the pedal. Keep your foot under you;
2. Get on the pedals and bring the chest clamp to the manual one. Your own weight is lifted by the leg, and not by pulling up on the hands. The body is parallel to the rope. When lifting, the rope must slip through the chest clamp without the participation of the worker. To do this, the shoulder straps of the harness must be well tightened, the rope must be located between the legs of the worker and not cling to the equipment attached to the harness. The first few meters of the ascent may require you to pull the rope through the chest ascender with your hand;
3. Shift your weight to the chest clamp;

1. Install a manual clamp with a pedal on the rope;
2. Open chest clamp cam;
3. Stand on the pedals with your leg fully extended;
4. Place the chest ascender on the rope above the SA, transfer the weight to the chest ascender;
5. Remove the SU from the rope;

1. Install the descender on the rope below the chest ascender, but as close as possible to it, block it;
2. Remove the chest ascender from the rope, transfer the weight to the descender;
3. Remove the hand clamp from the rope;

1. Lower the hand clamp to the chest;
2. Slightly stand on the pedals to unload the chest clamp, press its cam with your finger;
3. Bending at the knee the leg inserted into the pedal, lower the chest clamp down the rope;
4. Remove your finger from the cam of the chest clamp before the mustache attached to the hand clamp is taut, transfer the weight to the chest clamp;
5. Repeat these actions until the goal is achieved;

Passage of a quickdraw

Climb

1. 
   
2. Pull up on the quickdraw and unfasten the first quickdraw carabiner located above the devices. Holding on to the ropes coming out of the guy down, smoothly move horizontally;
   
3. 
   
4. Continue climbing;

Descent

Passing an intermediate fix

Descent

Climb

1. Climb up to PZ. Leave 1-2 cm from the hand clamp to the knot;
   
2. 
   
3. 
   
4. 
   
5. 
   
6. 
   
7. 
   
8. Continue climbing;

passing knots

1. Rearrange the hand clamp above the knot;
2. Rise a little more on the clamps so that the chest clamp is a few centimeters from the knot;
3. Set the descender on the working rope below the chest clamp, block;
4. Get up on the pedals, release the chest clamp and move it above the knot, transfer the weight to the chest clamp;
5. Remove the descender from the working rope;
6. Continue climbing;

1. Get down to the node. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the descender;
2. Change from descender to clamps;
3. Lower yourself on the clamps to the knot. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the chest clamp;
4. Install the descender below the knot, take some slack so that the knot rests on the device, block it;
5. Get up on the pedals, disconnect the chest clamp from the rope, smoothly transfer the weight to the descender. The hand clip should be positioned so as not to hang on his mustache;
6. Remove the hand clamp;
7. Continue descent;

1. Go down / go up to the node;
2. Create a second point of attachment to the safety rope: tie an Austrian guide knot and fasten a mustache into its loop or install and block the descender;
3. Rearrange the belay device through the node;
4. Remove the second attachment point created in step 2;
5. Continue driving;

Transition from one pair of ropes to another

Important!
During horizontal movement, the worker must be attached to four ropes: two workers and two safety ropes. This way of organizing the belay prevents falling along the trajectory of the pendulum when one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident when colliding with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.

Passing a long karem

Climb

1. 
   
   
2. 
   
   
3. 
   
   
4. 
   
   

Descent

1. 
   
   
2. 
   
   
3. 
   
   
4. Stand on the manual clamp pedals and release the chest clamp, smoothly transfer your weight to the descender. Detach the hand clamp and belay device from the ropes to the FZ.
   
   
5. Continue descent;

Working on spread ropes

The method of working on spaced ropes allows you to expand the available space. The worker uses two pairs of ropes: two workers holding him in the required position, and two
safety. This way of organizing the belay prevents a fall along the trajectory of the pendulum when one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident.
collision with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.

By extending or selecting the rope through the descenders, the worker can move horizontally and vertically. The use of descenders is similar to their use for
descent and ascent.


If there are kinks between the descent zone and the anchoring points of the ropes, when the worker moves horizontally, the loaded ropes will move along the kinks, which can
cause them to be damaged. The ropes should be prevented from shifting by means of quickdraws or intermediate anchoring points.

Overcoming the tread

During the ascent

1. Climb to the tread
2. Remove protector
3. Climb above the tread installation site
4. Continue driving

During the descent

1. Go down to the tread
2. Take the rope away from the point of friction
3. Remove protector
4. Go down below the tread installation site
5. Restore the location of the protector on the rope
6. Continue driving

Traversing structures using mustaches with shock absorber

The worker moves along the structures by climbing. The insurance is carried out by sequential rearrangement of the mustache containing the shock absorber and attached to point A on the worker's harness.


If it is necessary to free his hands to perform any action, the worker, in addition to the mustache with a shock absorber, joins the structure with a mustache connected to the abdominal
binding point, and hangs on it.

To free your hands, you can also join the design in the girth. The mustache, clasping the structure, is connected to the side points of the strapping or to the abdominal point. On the design of the mustache
located above the points of attachment to the harness, the depth of the possible sliding of the mustache along the structure in the event of a fall is not more than 0.5 meters. The worker leans on his feet.

Important:

Movement on artificial support points in the horizontal direction

Moving on poles with loops

For movement, three loops are used: one as a support for the leg, the second to hold the weight of the worker, the third for insurance. On surfaces with good friction, the hinges are attached to
pole with the help of a semi-grasping knot, on slippery ones - with the help of a prussik knot.
The holding loop is connected to the abdominal point of the harness, the safety loop is connected to the chest point.
A. The leg loop is not attached to the harness.

Climb

1. Get on the leg loop
2. Raise the holding and safety loops up the pole
3. Hang on a holding loop
4. Raise the leg loop up the post
5. Repeat these steps until you reach your goal

Rescue of the victim when hovering on the descender

1. 
   
   
2. It is necessary to give the victim as vertical a position as possible. To do this, the chest point of the harness of the victim is attached with a sliding carabiner to the rope above his descender (or the carabiner to the carabiner of his descender), after which, if necessary, the shoulder straps of the harness are tightened;
3. 
   
   
4. Go down on the clamps to the tension of the short mustache. Disconnect the chest clamp and transfer the weight to the short mustache. Disconnect the hand clamp and your belay device;
5. 
   
   
6. Perform a descent on the trigger device of the victim;

Important!
The use of the victim's ropes for the rescue operation is only permitted if they and their anchoring points have not been damaged. Unacceptable
use equipment that has been subjected to high loads.

Rescue of the victim when hanging on the chest clamp

1. Climb up to the victim on the clamps, using his safety rope as your work, and his work as your safety. It is necessary to be at the same level with the victim: if necessary, raise his belay device higher along the rope, you can rearrange the manual clamp above the victim's belay device;
2. Attach a long mustache to the abdominal point of the victim's harness, then rearrange the safety device above his chest clamp;
3. 
   
   
4. Pull the chest of the victim towards you and attach the chest point of his strapping with a carabiner to the carabiner of your descender. If the length of one carabiner is not enough to perform this action, use a chain of two or three carabiners or a short anchor loop (no more than 30 cm, you can fold a longer loop several times);
   
   
5. Disconnect the victim's whisker from his hand clamp. Disconnect the victim's safety device from the rope;
6. Attach the pedal to the victim's thoracic harness point, pass it through a carabiner attached to the victim's hand clamp. Adjust the pedal so that its length is maximum;
   
   
7. Detach the victim's chest clamp. Maximally choose the slack in the trigger device, block it;
   
   
8. Bending at the knee of the leg inserted into the pedal, transfer the weight to the descender. Disconnect the pedal from the victim, remove the manual clamp from the rope;
9. Pass the rope exiting the descender through an additional carabiner to increase friction. carry out the descent;
   
   

Important!
The use of the victim's ropes for the rescue operation is only permitted if they and their anchoring points have not been damaged. It is unacceptable to use equipment subjected to high loads.

The program was developed by rope access specialist Anton Yuryev for

Original taken from mr_aug V

Original taken from survivalpanda in Vertical training for beginners. Likbez. Theory and practice of entry level

In this article I will try, to the best of my understanding, to explain the basics of mountain training in the most simple way for absolute beginners in the subject.
I will tell you about the terms and the simplest techniques of descent and ascent that everyone can master.

Just a few months ago, in order to collect this information, I had to climb the Internet for a rather long time, so I decided to systematize and present it as simply as possible, I think it will be useful.

The article turned out to be big, but you can’t throw out the words from the song. She wrote for a long time. Right in parallel with writing, I experienced or mastered something new and included it in the article.
Also, I do not rule out some mistakes that I could well have made.

Warning: it is better to do such things under the supervision of professionals. Otherwise, you can very easily get killed or injured.

So. It all started with the great bang. All mountain training, according to my classification, is divided into two types of organization of movement on a rope. This is an upward movement i.e. ascent and downward movement i.e. descent.

Now we will slowly begin to disassemble each item of equipment and the term that may meet on the thorny path of a beginner who wants to get a little familiar with this topic.

The first thing we need is rope.

Without a rope, we won’t climb anywhere and then we won’t go down from there.

Two types of ropes are used in mountaineering: static(static - slang) and dynamic(dynamics - slang). They are characterized by dynamic qualities, namely the ability to elongate under load.

The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb the jerk that occurs when a climber falls (we will talk about the fall factor below). Therefore, dynamics is very often used for belaying climbing. For lower insurance, it is generally required.

For a simple descent and ascent on a rope, a beginner will only need to purchase a static rope. A bay of 50 meters is enough for everything and still remains. The budget option would be to purchase domestic rope (Kolomna, Dzerzhinsk, etc.).

Standard diameters used in mountaineering are 9-11 mm (in promalp - 10-12). The more, the stronger and heavier the rope. The more it slows down in the descender.

I advise you to stop at the golden mean - 10 mm.

And if we touched the ropes, then we can not ignore repsnur(repic, repchik - slang). This is an auxiliary static rope with a diameter of 3-8mm. It has a bunch of applications, ranging from the organization of self-insurance and ending with the manufacture of shoelaces.

In general, the paracord was not lying around.

I use a 5mm cord, a skein of which is almost always in my backpack.

With the ropes sort of figured out.

From the ropes we smoothly pass to the knots.

There are a lot of different knots and you can learn them endlessly. I will focus only on some of the most in my opinion demanded.

First it eight, we can say - this is the main node that can be used in almost any case. Very reliable knot, practically does not weaken the rope.

The figure eight is used for bindings, both to an individual safety system (ISS) and to a support. For connecting and lengthening ropes, in general, for almost everything.

You need to learn how to knit a figure eight loop.

Bowline- a very common knot for tying and creating loops. Less reliable than the figure eight, but knits faster. A control node is required. Not absolutely reliable. Tie a better eight.

You need to know at least one grasping knot. Then we will insure ourselves.

Well, knot UIAA(UIAA), needed for emergency descents and descents with a minimum of equipment.

Note! The free end of the rope should come out from the opposite side of the carabiner sleeve.

Have you bought a rope, mastered the knots, now you can climb and descend?

In principle, yes, you can, like in the good old days, rappel without any equipment.
To rappel - to descend with a rappel. Many people think that this is any descent, but it is not. Dylfer is a descending technique named after the inventor.

So, it is possible to go down in this way, but it is not safe and inconvenient.

For convenience and safety, it has long been invented Individual Harness Systems(ISS, system, gazebo, suspended).

They serve to distribute the load on the body when hanging and falling and do not let you fall.

Systems are full And waist.

I use a belt system. If desired, it can be turned into a full one by buying special straps.

For beginners, I would recommend a regular ISS without shoulders.

If needed a budget option, then the domestic company Vento. In any case, you should not take systems consisting only of slings. In the people they are affectionately called "egg cutters". If there is enough money, then it is better not to be stingy and take something from the famous brands Petzl, Black Diamod, etc.

The following photo shows the main elements of the safety system:
Leg loops
Waist girth
Safety ring (green)
Loops for hanging equipment - they are not cargo, in no case should you insure and hang on them.

Dealt with insurance systems.

Now we need combine rope with ISS. You can do this in two ways. Knot and through a carabiner.

The knot is still the same figure eight, but I will talk about carbines a little lower.

The carabiner is fastened into the central safety loop. This is a strong recommendation of all manufacturers.
Very often they are taught to fasten into the belt loop and the leg loop at the same time - this is a mistake. increases the chance that the carabiner will warp and it will be loaded laterally. At the same time, only a knot can be attached to both loops.

Do not believe me, then read the instructions for your ISS.

Now let's move on to carbines.

So what are carbines.
Firstly, they are sleeved and non-sleeved.
Their difference is that the clutched ones are equipped with a special clutch that prevents the carbine from opening spontaneously.

Couplings There are threaded, bayonet and automatic.
With automatic it is convenient to manipulate with one hand, but their reliability leaves much to be desired. I recommend using carabiners with threaded sockets. And most importantly, always make sure that the carbine is muffled.

Also, carbines differ in shape and are: oval, trapezoidal, triangular, pear-shaped, etc.

Oval carabiners are the most versatile and inexpensive.
Trapezoidal with a similar weight have greater strength than oval.
Triangular and pear-shaped carabiners have increased rope clearance. They are more convenient to fasten and use the UIAA knot.

Carabiners are made from different materials. These are steel, aluminum alloys and titanium.

Steel carabiners are heavy and very strong, aluminum carabiners are much lighter. Titanium ones are quite rare and I did not communicate with them.

Now for strength.

Each carbine is equipped with this marking. It means that the carbine from the photo in the muffled state will withstand a load of 22 kN (2.2 tons) in the longitudinal direction. 8 kN if the latch is open and 8 kN in the transverse direction.

You see how important it is to lock the carabiners and make sure they are positioned properly.

Note! The clutch of the carabiner should always "look" at you. This way you will see if the carabiner has accidentally disengaged.

If it is possible that the load will be applied from several sides, so-called rapids are used. These are steel carabiners that do not have a folding latch, but only a threaded coupling.

I would advise a beginner to buy 3-4 carbines of various shapes with threaded couplings. Production material - optional.

Let's move on to Descenders(SU, trigger).

The main principle of operation of all control systems is the creation of rope friction in the mechanism. As a result, you can control the descent with very little effort.

SU happen manual And automatic.

In manual landing stages, the speed of descent and braking depend only on the way the rope is threaded and on the force with which a person pulls the rope below the landing stage.

Automatic descenders have a special mechanism. We pull the handle - we go down. We release the handle - we hang. In this case, the free end of the rope must still be controlled.

In this article, I will only talk about hand-held devices. for a beginner who does not plan to engage in industrial alp, automatic devices are completely redundant.

And I will tell you about two types of triggers - this is a figure-eight and a Shikht puck.

SU eight- This is one of the most classic devices. Looks like this.

The horn is needed to fix the rope, there are eights and without horns.
The disadvantage is that the figure eight twists the rope. This means that after several descents, the rope will be full of "lambs" that will then have to be untangled.

The advantages include several options for refueling the rope.

There are two of them. Through the carabiner (the speed of descent is higher) and through the neck of the figure eight.

Well, at any time, the horned figure eight can be blocked by winding the rope around the horn.

Another, more modern version of the figure eight is the Petzl piranha. It has even more ways to fasten and adjust the speed of descent. More about this trigger device will be in a separate review.

By the way, take a look at the non-Petselevsky carbine. When it's decoupled, the red anodizing strip is visible - a great idea in my opinion.

The second type of manual SU is washer charge. They are: glass, basket, reverse, etc.

Works great with single and double rope. They don't spin it. In general, I recommend starting with just such a descent.

Threading the rope is carried out as follows. A loop is created that is threaded into a slot on the device. The free end of the rope is directed towards the SU jaws.

A carabiner is fastened inside the loop.
Note! The cable is not a loaded part and serves only for transportation.

Let's say the stars align. You have bought a coil of rope, ISS, carabiners and a belay device.

Good, still needed helmet. But I leave it on your conscience.
Although even a banal construction helmet will not hurt.
I use ballistic helmets, which doesn't always elicit a healthy reaction.

Will not be redundant knee pads. Otherwise, bruising on the knees cannot be avoided.

Just as important are good gloves. When descending quickly, the rope rubs and burns your palm, you can instinctively release the rope from your hands from pain, which can be fatal.

Now we take all this and go to an impromptu climbing wall.

Do not forget to call a friend with you who will carry out insurance. Haven't forgotten? Well done!

Our climbing wall will be a small wall from which you can go down. In the photo, for example, a retaining wall.

For the first workouts, the lower the better.

Now we put on a harness. Tighten and check all buckles. Ask a friend to check again.

The first step is to fasten the rope. In mountaineering, it is customary to fasten either to one unconditionally reliable point, or to two less reliable ones. These anchor points are called stations.

We will be attached to a living tree. This is a pretty safe anchor point.

We are tied to the tree with the same blessed eight, well, or bowline without forgetting the control knot.

There is another option to buy quickdraw from a 120 cm long sling and using a carabiner to create just such a station.

Using a semi-grasping knot reduces strength by 50 percent, but the "choke" ( semi-grasping knot) allows you to gain a foothold higher.

We'll do it like this.

Well, in general, such braces from the sling are very useful in the household. You have to take a couple.

The station was created. First of all, we secure ourselves to it with a mustache of self-insurance. If you do not know what it is, then you can play it safe with a repic, as I am in the photo.

And since we are talking, I will say a few words about lanyard mustache.
These are segments of a sling or dynamic rope, which are attached to the system at one end and to the insurance point at the other.

There are industrial production and self-linked.

Purchased looks like this.

Self bound so. A figure-eight mustache knot is attached to the system.
The first mustache, as a rule, has a standard length - 55 cm. It mainly serves to attach to surrounding objects, such as the station that we made in the previous step.

A jumar is usually attached to the second mustache. Its length should be such that, hanging on this mustache, you reach the latch of the jumar (how the jumar looks like, where it has a latch and what it is in general, I will tell you a little lower).

At the free ends of the self-insurance mustache, knots are knitted into which carabiners are fastened. I use a semi-grapevine with three turns. If you do not know how to such a node, use the figure eight.

Now let's go back to the beginning of the "cycle". We found support. They created a station on it, snapped a self-insurance. Happened? Well done!

Now, at the end of the rope on which we will descend, we knit a figure eight and snap it into the carabiner, which was hung at the station.

At the other end of the rope, we also knit a knot and drop the bay into the "chasm".

This knot ensures that even if the rope does not reach the bottom, you will simply stop and not fall over the end.

Even if you think that the rope has reached the bottom, you still need to make sure of it. Ask a friend downstairs.

If the rope passes over the edge of the wall and rubs against it, then it is worth putting on it tread. This is a strip of dense material (basin, a piece of a fire hose, etc.) with Velcro. Wraps around the rope and protects against abrasion.

If the protector is not worn, then a couple of times this picture is obtained. Agree, it's not.

We thread the rope into the descender (I hope you didn’t forget it below). Pull the free end up and take out the slack.

Now, if you pull the free end of the rope, then you will not be able to fall.

At this stage, you can click the mustache of the lanyard from the station.

By the way, your insurance will be based on the same principle. An insurer should stand below, and it is desirable that it was not yours. worst enemy who is already rubbing his sweaty palms in anticipation of your fall.

The spotter must be ready to pull on the free end of the rope.
He should not be distracted from insurance by pretty climbers or talking on a cell phone. All his attention should be focused on you.

We start the hand with the rope under the ass, while the rope will be additionally controlled on the thigh.
Back we go to the edge, slowly giving out the rope by easy palm relaxation.

Resting with our feet, we hang out the fifth point so that the legs are at right angles to the wall. The back is straight and parallel to the wall.

We make the first descent slowly, in steps. We rearrange our legs and slowly give out the rope until we touch the ground.

Congratulations, the first descent is completed!

In the future, the descents can be complicated at will.

From the insurer, you can and should go to self-insurance(and also, for maximum security, both of these options can be combined).

Just for this, we learned the grasping knot.

The knot is usually knitted either above the SA or below. What is the difference?

If we knit a grasping knot above the SU, then in case of a breakdown, we hang on it. The descender becomes unloaded.

To continue the descent, we need to loosen the knot and load the descender again. In order to loosen the knot, we need to rise a little. To do this, we need a clamp (I will talk about them later) or tie a stirrup on a rope.

In general, the task is not very trivial.
An easier option is to knit a grasping knot below the SU. In the photo, an autoblock unit is used.

In this case, during a fall, we remain hanging on the knot, while the trigger remains loaded.

We only need to grab the rope between the SU and the knot, thus we will unload the knot, it will be possible to loosen it and continue the descent.
Like good method but it also has disadvantages. If the reason for the breakdown is in the destruction of the SS, then we will be turned upside down, which is very unpleasant. Although this probability is quite small, it should not be neglected.

Read more about securing a self-insurance below the SU in a very sensible article:

Everything, the descent is mastered. You can not stop there, but continue training, for example, master the elements of assault mountaineering, which basically consists of spectacular descents.

Even if you stop after having mastered only the basics, you have already acquired skills that, in certain circumstances, such as a fire in a stairwell, can save your life.

All about the descent.

Now it's time to touch climb on a rope, but first I’ll talk a little about clamps.

clamp- a device that moves freely along the rope, but when a load occurs, the device is fixed by clamping the rope, hence the name.

Rope climbing requires two ascenders or one ascender + auto belay device.

The most common clamp is jumar. This is a clip with a handle that is comfortable to hold. The most convenient tool for lifting (hence the term zhumarit, means to climb). It is advisable to have at least one.

Zhumars are left and right, under any hand.

The principle of operation of the jumar is quite simple. It is based on clamping the rope with a spring-loaded cam with spikes.

We put an open jumar on a rope and snap it into place. Up, it slides freely along the rope, and when loaded, it is fixed. A loaded jumar cannot be removed.

For more security, you can click the carabiner like this.

A pedal is fastened to the handle of the jumar. Still the most strong muscles at the man's feet.
The pedal should be of such length that when standing in it with a fully extended leg, the jumar is at chest level.

Let the jumar be our first clamp. The second clamp can also be a jumar, but already under the left hand.

The rise on two jumars is done as follows.

We get up on the pedal of the left jumar. We push the right jumar up the rope as much as possible, while bending the right leg at the knee. Making a push right foot- "Let's go up the stairs" Then we push the left jumar, etc.

With the mustache of self-insurance, it is better to insure both jumars.

Instead of the second jumar, you can (and even need to) take crawl. This is a clamp that is very similar to a jumar with a sawn off handle. It hangs on the chest. In the case of using with a waist ISS, it is necessary to additionally hang a special rope around the neck.

The principle of lifting on a pair of jumar + crawl.
I will show this method in a separate video.

We depend on the crawl. We push the jumar as high as possible, bending the leg with the pedal put on at the knee. Pull up on the pedal. The rope itself passes through the crawl. Then we hover on the crawl and push the jumar further.

At the same time, you can hold on to the jumar with both hands, and pass both legs into the stirrup of the jumar.

Climbing with jumar + front crawl is the fastest and easiest to learn.

There is an option to do without jumar.
For example, using the crawl + pantin scheme.

pantin- this is the same crawl, only attached to the boot. The lifting principle is the same.

But I would advise at least one jumar, but buy it. In addition to lifting on it, you can also insure, although it is not recommended.
The second type of clamps that I highlight are safety clamps.

As you ascend, the belay ascender rides alongside you on the second rope, or above you if there is only one rope.

They ride up freely, and when they fall, they block and prevent you from falling. The most famous representatives: various drops, shants, backups and asaps.

I also want to mention various mini-clamps. They are capable of performing functions similar to large ones, although they are less reliable and convenient. Their undeniable advantage is their small weight and size.

As a result, one or two such clamps can always be kept on the harness. You can read more about them in the review.

In general terms, everything is on the rise.

Now about the unpleasant, namely about breakdowns. And more specifically about the jerk factor.

A newcomer entering any forum in the discussion of any iron sees this term almost immediately.
Its essence is very simple to understand.

"jerk factor" is the ratio of the height of the fall to the length of the rope that stops it.

A rather rough indicator by which it is easy to determine whether this piece of iron will fall apart during a jerk or not.
I strongly recommend avoiding falls with a factor greater than one.

It’s quite simple: if we insure against something (sling, belay device on the second rope, etc.), the belay point must not be lower than the waist.

That's all. Thank you for your attention!