To run comfortably with a classic stroke, skis must glide forward and “hold” back. Unsupportive skis are a torment for a skier. We have already covered this in a separate article. Today we will tell you how to wax skis for... classic move so that there is no “recoil”. The process is very similar to preparation skating skis, but you need to additionally lubricate the holding area.
Where is ski holding ointment applied?
Grip ointment is applied to skis to the “pad” area. Last - the area under the boot and forward about 30 cm.
This image shows the approximate last length (based on ski length) for beginner skiers.
When selecting a pad, you should not accurately calculate centimeters and strictly follow the instructions. The ideal holding zone is different for everyone. Start with the recommendations on the diagrams, and then adjust, depending on the glide and grip of the skis.
There is “kickback” on skis - increase the block forward.
Skis glide poorly and slow down with ointment - reduce the block.
Important! Adjust the block only at the front of the ski. At the back, the holding ointment should reach a maximum of the heel of the boot.
Once you find your last length, mark it on your skis with a marker or sticker.
Quick preparation of classic skis
What is needed to prepare skis without an iron and other equipment?
- slip ointment for quick application
- holding ointment for quick application
In this method, everything is simple: the sliding area is smeared with sliding ointment, the holding area is smeared with holding ointment. We wait 2 minutes and you can ride. Learn more about applying liquid gliding ointments.
The method is very convenient and fast. But it is not as effective as preparing skis with solid ointments. Quick ski preparation is enough for an average of 5 km. If you plan to ski more, then you will need a different way to lubricate your skis.
Preparing classic skis with solid ointments
The principle is the same, but holding ointment is applied under the block, and the sliding area is treated with paraffins using an iron. We wrote how to treat skis with paraffin in the article:.
What is needed to apply the holding ointment?
- solid holding ointment
- synthetic rubbing
- masking tape (preferred, but not required)
- 100-grit sandpaper (preferably, but not required)
How to apply grip ointment to skis?
It is advisable to treat the block with fine sandpaper under the holding ointment. Ideal with 100 grit. Carry out this operation only when you find a block that suits you. Rough plastic will hold the ointment better and it will last longer.
To make smearing more convenient, you can mark the area of the block with masking tape. This way you will not stain the sliding surface of the ski with grip ointment when you rub the ointment.
The ointment is applied in thin layers, each layer must be rubbed with a synthetic cork. It is better to apply 2-3 thin layers than one thick one. A thick layer of ointment is difficult to spread evenly.
To increase the mileage covered with one application of holding ointment, the primer layer can be applied under the iron. That is, first sand, then fuse a thin layer of ointment with an iron, and then everything is as usual.
This treatment of skis will be enough for 50 km or more. If the weather has changed, then the old ointment must be removed and a new one applied according to the weather.
How to remove old grip ointment from skis?
The old holding ointment is removed with a scraper. To do this, it is better to have a separate scraper so as not to stain the sliding surface with ointment.
After removing the ointment with a scraper, the residues are washed off with special solvents. The procedure is optional, but after 2-3 treatments it is better to completely clean the holding area using washes.
Play sports, move, travel and be healthy! 🙂
If you find an error, a typo, or you have something to discuss, write in the comments. We are always happy to communicate :)
Skiing is a rewarding and fun activity for the whole family. But it’s not enough to just buy skis; they need proper care, including lubrication. Lubrication sports equipment made from plastic is different from the same process with wood. This article is devoted to how to properly lubricate plastic skis.
Lubrication of skis “for sliding”
The technology for lubricating plastic skis varies depending on how you plan to ski. In order for the skis to glide, they are lubricated with hot paraffin, and to keep them on the snow - with a special ointment. for better glide?
How to lubricate plastic skis “on hold”
The technology for lubricating skis “on hold” differs from that described above. In order for the skis to have a tighter grip on the snow cover, they are lubricated as follows:
Ski waxes
You have already learned how to properly lubricate plastic skis, but what kind of ointment should you use for this? Ski treatment products come in regular, low-fluoride and high-fluoride. Regular ointment is suitable if it does not exceed 55% when skating. In other cases, it is better to use products containing fluoride in one quantity or another. Such ointments are more expensive, but skis glide much better after applying them. Be aware that if the temperature of the iron exceeds the expected limit, fluoride will begin to be released from the ointment. Lubricate the equipment in a respirator or in a well-ventilated area.
If you are wondering “how to lubricate plastic skis,” then go straight to a sports equipment store, where sales consultants will select the ointment that suits you.
Even the highest quality ointment will not keep your skis in order if you do not familiarize yourself with the basic rules of lubrication:
- Apply lubricant only at room temperature. Skis must be clean and dry.
- If you use a solid ointment, always apply it in several layers. Moreover, each layer must be ground separately, and the skis must be cooled after the procedure. If the temperature outside the window is down to -15° C, then 15 minutes will be enough for cooling, but if it’s frosty outside, cool the skis longer.
- How to properly lubricate plastic skis? For classic skiing, apply ointment or paraffin to the front and back of the skis, treat the surface in the middle with a compound for gripping on snow.
Do you want to know if you have lubricated your equipment correctly? Go on a ski trip of at least a couple of kilometers. How to lubricate plastic skis in case of failure? If your skis roll too poorly, use a harder wax. If they are too slippery, use a higher temperature ointment.
Secrets of lubrication of skis
In order for skiing to bring you only joy, you must clearly know how to properly lubricate plastic skis. This business, like any other, has its own tricks and secrets.
Always check the weather forecast on the day of your ride. If the weather was sunny in the morning, and by lunchtime there is an increase in air humidity and fog, be sure to take an extra bottle of ski wax with you. This will allow you to adjust the lubrication on the spot. Don't know which ski wax to choose? Keep a special notebook and write down in it all the nuances of the “behavior” of skis after using this or that product. This will help you find the perfect ointment!
Be sure to store ski wax out of the reach of children and ensure that it does not get wet. Otherwise, the product will simply be spoiled. When outdoors, close the tube immediately after use.
Proper storage of plastic skis
Skis require careful cleaning and lubrication at least once a year. Of course, professional skiers and people who rent equipment at resorts do this much more often. As a rule, this is done after each ride. For an ordinary person who prefers to take a leisurely ski trip on a day off, this is of no use.
You already understand how to properly lubricate plastic skis. But how to properly store them? Be sure to store them lubricated and tied in two places (at the heel and toe). Place the skis in a dry place with
Having chosen equipment for snow walks, lovers winter holiday They complain that the plastic ones don’t slide. What is this connected with, how to avoid incidents? Why don't skis move, but slide backwards? To prevent rollback when pushing, it is recommended to use a ski.
Among amateurs winter walks prefer plastic equipment. Appearance no different from elite equipment, and the price is more affordable. Plastic equipment is made from the latest, durable materials. There are models with notches on sliding surface(transverse notches) along the central part of the ski track, similar to fish scales.
Plastic gear with notches is used for walking. The equipment is suitable for connoisseurs of comfort and convenience, and not for racers. Skis are suitable for relaxed walks for beginner athletes of any age.
Kit for lubricating skis from jars of ointment, rubbing plug, scraper
They constantly slide backwards poorly, what should I do? Classic skiing requires ski lubrication. For this purpose, a minimum processing set of tools is purchased. The middle part is lubricated with ointment by the holder, which prevents slipping during shocks.
For comfortable movement, buy a kit with jars of ointment, rubbing plugs, and a scraper (Wisti, Uktus, Festa, Ray). The skis are lubricated under the block and rubbed with a cork until a smooth, shiny layer is obtained.
How to wax skis at 5 degrees?
For example, at a temperature of -5, a Visti set (5 briquettes) is suitable. The blue ointment contained in the kit is intended for frost temperatures from -2 to -8. When going for a walk, it is recommended to take additional lubricant of purple (from 0 to -2) and light green (from -5 to -13). Additional funds will help adjust the protective layer if it gets warmer or colder.
Upon returning home, the old grease is removed with a scraper and a new coating is applied. To clean skis (to give them a fresh look), gasoline or turpentine is suitable. Special cleaners are also available for sale.
Economy sets of ointments for lubricating skis
What to do if plastic skis slide backwards? Leading manufacturers have economy kits in their arsenal. With ointments for equipment (2-3 products, rubbing plug). Extended kits include an additional 2 packages of liquid product, a scraper, and a can of cleaner.
Belt bags are provided for the sets. Having an economy kit for a walk, the skier is armed under any circumstances.
Paraffins for lubrication
Plastic equipment has good glide, unlike wooden equipment. Over time, microscopic cracks form on the sliding surface. Wear is caused by ice and snow. Examining the surface with a microscope, it is similar to a mountain landscape; the sliding properties deteriorate. A hydrocarbon lubricant is used to fill microdamages and restore an ideal surface.
Paraffin waxes are designed to impregnate skis. Liquid paraffin is available in the form of an aerosol and ointment.
- The ointment is no different from solid paraffin.
- Aerosols are more convenient to apply, but not economically.
Liquid paraffin is applied to a clean and dry surface.
How to improve ski glide?
Skis don't work in cold weather, what should I do? In frosty weather (-18 and above), gliding becomes difficult and slow. In frosts above 23 degrees, it is completely impossible to ride. There are 2 ways to correct the situation:
- Paraffinizing with frosty paraffin with an iron, brush, scraper on a machine.
- Treating equipment with a proprietary spray lubricant for severe frosts.
How to properly lubricate plastic skis: important recommendations
Perform inventory processing with technical knowledge:
- For long walks and in the spring, equipment is treated with ground paraffin (in frosty weather with hard snow). When the ski track is soft and the weather is smooth, it is not necessary to apply dirt (for short skiing).
- Ointments are applied to dry, clean surfaces. The application layer is thin and even. To walk, your toes and heels rub. To do this, a slip is used. The loading area is treated with a traction agent.
- Equipment with notches is rarely lubricated with ointments for adhesion.
- Plastic skis slide back a lot, what should I do? This is usually observed on an icy road or in warm weather, then even equipment with notches is processed.
- Why are they giving away skis? You can cope with recoil by applying a grip agent (the cargo area is treated). If the result is insufficient, then the area of application of the product to the sock is slightly increased. To eliminate full kickback, a clutch aid is added to the cargo area.
- To avoid incidents with poor gliding, skiers are advised to take equipment with them when going for a walk.
Proper storage of plastic skis
In the winter months, equipment is cleaned after each walk and wiped dry. Store inventory better at home or on the balcony. In order to prevent water from entering the fasteners, equipment is stored vertically. If you leave wet equipment on a loggia or balcony in sub-zero temperatures, the fasteners will break or not work the next time you fasten them. Dry snow will not cause damage to equipment.
Skiers or amateurs in spring winter leisure preparing skis for summer storage. A preservative, varnish and fine sandpaper are suitable for this. Before preparing the equipment for summer storage, the sports equipment is washed with warm water with the addition of detergent and dried.
Defects in the form of chips, microdamages, and scratches are considered on sports equipment. If there are any irregularities, they are smoothed out with a sanding knife (there should be no burrs or roughness). The varnish is applied in 3 layers, then the sports equipment must dry.
The safety of the equipment is ensured with the help of a preservative lubricant applied to the surfaces of the projectile in contact with the snow. The product is selected taking into account the material of the skis. The plastic surface is treated with paraffins, the wooden surface with (heated) resin. The product covers uneven areas.
After processing, the equipment should be packed. Spacers are provided for the wooden projectile (prevent deformation). The equipment is tied at the edges and secured with a cord. The spacer is installed in the center (wooden block). Plastic equipment is stored without a spacer.
Stores sell special covers (fabric) for skis. If sports equipment is stored on a balcony, it must be protected from light so that the lubricant does not oxidize, otherwise the surface will be damaged.
Storage sports equipment allowed vertically (hang) or horizontally (in 3 places with support). When stored vertically, equipment should not come into contact with floors. The service life of the product and the quality of sliding depend on the correct preservation of the projectile. Amateur skis do not require expensive surface treatment products; professional equipment is more capricious.
…I rode in Bitsa on the first snow this year. On one of the climbs I was stopped by a man who admitted that he had just bought himself plastic skis.
- Why do you easily climb the mountain, but my skis roll the same way both forward and backward?
- What did you smear them with?
- What, they also need to be smeared?!
This dialogue, for all its apparent implausibility, is nevertheless very characteristic. Do I need to lubricate plastic skis, and what should I use?
Master of Sports of the USSR in cross-country skiing,
editor-in-chief magazine "Skiing".
I. Should I buy skis with notches?
This is a question to which, unfortunately, there is no clear answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the skiing population of our planet, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using skis with notches are more than obvious - you will never have to bother yourself with the question of how to wax skis. Agree, this way of putting the question is captivating - I took my skis, got up and went.
The disadvantages are just as obvious. Such skis will hold up well on soft, loose snow, but will not hold up on more or less hard ski tracks. And, the most annoying thing is that if the skis with notches do not hold, it is almost impossible to lubricate them.
I will say right away that I am not a fan of using these skis and from an early age I taught my children to oil their skis. This is a more complex option, which nevertheless guarantees normal skiing in any weather. However, the final choice is still yours, and the article below is addressed precisely to those who have made their choice in favor of “regular” classic skis, and are faced with the question of how to apply them to the grip (so that they do not give up or slide back ).
II. A set for lubricating skis consisting of two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, a rubbing plug, and a scraper.
This is the bare minimum kit you'll need to lubricate your skis. To ski on the track in the classic style, the skis must be coated with holding ointment under the block. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upward from the binding. It is this middle part of the ski (block) that needs to be smeared with holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push your foot back.
For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported holding ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing cork. It is quite enough to buy a set of 4 holding ointments (for example, domestic Visti, Uktus, Festa, Zet, Ray or imported ones - Swix, Toko, Briko, Start, Holmenkol, etc.). etc.) and lubricate the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork.
So, having smeared the ski under the block with holding ointment, it (the ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. Ideally, after rubbing you should get an even, slightly shiny layer.
If for some reason you can’t get an even layer, don’t worry about this, it’s enough to simply smooth the ointment.
Now about one more nuance. If you go into the woods to ski, it is advisable to always take with you a warmer and cooler holding ointment than the one you just applied, as well as a cork and a scraper. Let's look at the two most typical cases of ointment failure.
1. The skis don’t hold, or, as skiers say, they “give away” that is, they do not allow you to push confidently; when you push with your foot, they slip back. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can enjoy skating again. It will only take you a couple of minutes to correct the grease.
2. Skis, as skiers say, are “dull”
that is, they don’t move at all, and sometimes they also become covered with ice or snow under the block - in the middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation “sticking” if snow sticks to the wax, or icing if ice forms on the wax. There is a way out, you only need a little more time.
After this, intensively rub the ski block, first with a glove, removing the grease from the remaining snow and droplets of moisture, and then intensively with a cork, warming up and drying the ointment. You will have to exert much more effort compared to rubbing in a warm room. Now that the ointment has dried and warmed up, you can put an additional layer of cooler ointment on top of the unsuccessful lubricant. As a rule, in 99 percent of cases, this technique corrects the situation and allows you to continue your walk in the forest.
III. Let's look at a specific example: how to wax skis at minus five degrees?
For example, the temperature outside is minus five degrees. Do you have a kit ski waxes"Wisty", consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees below zero would be to apply blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember golden rule: on a ski trip you should always take two briquettes (cans) of borderline ointments in your pocket or pouch. In this case it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, both when it warms up and when it gets colder, you can make adjustments to your lubrication and enjoy your skiing.
When you return home, remove the old ointment from the ski with any plastic scraper (a piece of a plastic ruler, an old audio cassette case, etc.). After this, you can safely apply new lubricant to the remains of the old grease. If you want to clean your skis completely (which, in general, is completely optional), you can do this with a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline or turpentine. If funds allow, buy a normal plastic scraper and a bottle of branded cleaner - it has almost no smell, so you won’t “offend” anyone in your household with the smell of gasoline.
IV. A set of liquid ointments, a wash, and a scraper for skiing in positive weather.
As I already said, four inexpensive jars of ointment, a scraper and a rubbing plug will be enough for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already above zero. Sunday afternoon, sun, drops drive you out into the street with your skis, you smear yourself with the warmest briquettes of ointment you have (say, VISTI 0-2 or Swix + 1 - 0), but the skis... categorically do not hold, they “give away”. It's a shame? Yes! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski ointment (skiers sometimes call liquid ski ointments klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will put you in the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fiddling and experience. But the gain in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable.
So, you can get by with a set of two tubes of liquid ointment – red (plus) and purple (zero and a slight minus). We apply red ointment at any above-zero air temperature, and purple ointment at zero or slightly below zero. It is important to understand here that spring snow is almost never soft and fluffy like in winter. As a rule, in the spring it consists of hard, large snow and ice granules. Skiers call this snow firn. For such icy snow in sub-zero weather you will need a purple klister.
How to apply liquid ski wax to skis? This should be done in a warm room, evenly squeezing fat drops of ski wax onto the last (middle part) of the ski and then rubbing this ointment with a scraper.
And now about why you have to fuss a little more with liquid ski waxes compared to solid ones (jars or briquettes). The fact is that liquid ski waxes, whose consistency is very reminiscent of condensed milk, tend to stain hands and clothes, and in order to avoid these sad consequences, after training, skis should be immediately cleaned with a scraper and then with a wash. The second option is to pack your skis in a case, take them home and clean them there. Still, most skiers prefer to clean their skis immediately after finishing training - there is less soiled clothing and sticky hands, and the inside of the ski cover does not get dirty. Mandatory necessity Cleaning your skis after a walk is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments. But the constant companions of liquid ointments are usually spring sun, wonderful skiing and a wonderful mood. So, believe me, the game is worth the candle.
V. Economy kits of ointments for lubricating skis.
As a rule, all leading manufacturers sell economy ski wax kits containing two or three cans of solid wax and a rubbing stopper.
Sometimes this kit also includes one or two tubes of liquid ointment and a scraper. It happens that this kit is packaged in an inexpensive belt bag (skiers call it a “pouch”), and sometimes it also includes a can of wash. This is very good option in order to solve all your problems with ski lubrication for the next few years in one fell swoop, so be sure to use it if possible.
VI. Gliding ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.
This is an area that I strongly advise you not to trespass into. Believe me, modern plastic skis glide perfectly on the snow without any special treatment. This glide will be enough for you for any, even the longest walks through the forest in any weather.
Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below relative to the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not treat them with anything.
It’s another matter if your walks in the forest brought you to such a state that you wanted to go to the start of, say, the 50-kilometer “Moscow Ski Track” or, even more so, to test yourself in a very difficult classic MVTU Race.
In this case, you need to learn how to wax skis; you need to acquire not only a set of gliding ointments (paraffins), but also an iron, a brush, a hard metal scraper, a machine for preparing skis, etc. But these are pleasant chores. This means that you are already firmly hooked on the needle. cross-country skiing, which means skiing has already become very important for you integral part your life. But this time we won’t talk about all the intricacies of preparing skis with gliding ointments - this is beyond the scope of our conversation today. VII. How to improve ski glide?
I admit to you, this chapter is an insertion; I am forced to write it several years after writing the article itself. I am forced because I see that many of you, our readers, still have questions even after reading this article, and I have to answer them after receiving your letters. That is, it seems that I still failed to explain some important, basic things in this article. For example, there are a lot of questions about how to improve ski glide. Therefore, this chapter is a summary of everything that has already been said in this article and in the answers to your questions (as well as what has not been said) about ski sliding.
So, what affects ski glide??
Fork #1.
Smooth skis or knurled skis? Remember that skis with notches will always glide significantly worse than skis without notches. More details about this in the very first chapter of this article and here is my response to one of your letters:
Fork #2.
Type of sliding surface plastic . Again I direct you to my answer to Natalya Sinitsyna Skis with notches don't work - it's just terrible!- I spoke there in some detail about two types of sliding surface plastic - high molecular weight (expensive and fast) and low molecular weight (cheap and relatively slow). Please read. Look at mine car analogy. Remember that a wheelchair can be improved and modernized in some way, but making it drive like a Porsche 911 or even like a Ford Focus is unrealistic.
Fork #3.
Should I use sliding lubricants? Let me emphasize that I wrote this article with beginners in mind, people just taking their first steps on skis. Within this concept I believe that plastic skis do not need to be prepared for gliding- modern plastics glide quite well in the snow. And yet, since this question is asked constantly, I will answer. The first thing you need to do is learn to distinguish between sliding lubricants and holding lubricants, so as not to fall into the situation described in this letter, when our reader Tatyana Shalimova smeared her skis along the entire length with holding ointment and wondered why her skis weren’t moving.
So, have you already learned to distinguish holding ointments (“plasticines”) from gliding ointments (“candles,” sprays, applicators, etc.)? Then -
Fork No. 4.
Quick application gliding ointments ("lazy") or professional ones? First, you should keep in mind that there is a fairly large selection of quick-apply gliding ointments (sometimes called “lazy” ointments) at your disposal. To apply these ointments to the sliding surface of skis, you do not need to have any equipment.
And finally, the pinnacle of technology for preparing skis for gliding: the use of so-called paraffins, sprays, emulsions, powders, accelerators, etc. You will need: a strong, non-wobbly table, ski machine, two clamps, a professional ski iron (in no case a household one!), brushes, scrapers, fiberlen (special non-woven napkins for treating skis), paraffins, powders, accelerators... I’m not sure that it’s advisable to describe this quite complex and expensive ski preparation process. However, if I see that within the framework of even this articles for beginners: what brushes are needed for a beginner when preparing the sliding surface of cross-country skis?
QUESTION AND ANSWER
After the publication of this article, letters began to come to me from time to time with “naive” questions that readers could not find answers to in this material. At first I answered them privately, until suddenly it occurred to me that these answers might be of interest to a wider circle of our readers. So if you did not find the answer to your question in the article, write to me at my mailbox [email protected], send your questions, I will definitely answer them. In the meantime, here are the first questions and answers to them.
2. Aluminum ski poles bend. What to do?
3. Is it worth waxing skis for grip in orienteering?
And how to move to pump up your arms well. Today we will reveal three more secrets.
Secret three: ski training helps pump up your abs
I myself was surprised when, after my second ski winter, I found myself dry and relief press- cooler than he was when I was studying at gym. But during the ski season I don’t pump it separately at all - I have neither the energy nor the time! The secret, as the instructors explained to me, is simple: that year I switched to a track where there were many steep and long climbs.
When skiing uphill (no matter, skate or classic), you have to bend your legs strongly, and either tilt your body low forward or lift it slightly. In fact, you work your abs at the same time by bending and lifting your legs. And since you do this dynamically and with a fairly high frequency (otherwise you’ll just start sliding back downhill), the effect is higher than from measured twisting.
And one should not assume that this method is only suitable for those who are prepared. That year, when I first pumped up my abs only through ski training, I couldn’t ride most of the slides to the end. Choose a route with hills. And even if you ride them halfway or at all, as much as possible, and then go in a herringbone pattern, your abs will still work and your stomach will lose weight.
Secret four: don't let your skis slip
Classic style skiing is the most popular in the world. However, when switching from wooden skis to modern plastic skis, many begin to complain that they are “too slippery” and constantly slip back. Why and how to avoid this?
Plastic skis for classics must be coated with the so-called grip ointment under the block.
How to find this block
Place the skis nearby on a flat, clean floor (lift the carpet).
Put on your boots and fasten to the bindings.
Distribute your body weight equally on both legs, that is, put even pressure on both skis.
Ask your assistant to place a piece of paper under one ski in the middle, under the boot, and move it back and forth across the floor several times. (If the paper doesn’t move, it means the skis are too soft. I’ll tell you what to do with them below).
At the extreme points where the sheet can no longer move, ask an assistant to mark a line on the ski with a marker or pencil.
Do the same with the second ski.
The distance between these lines is your block, on which holding ointment should be applied. When pushing off, your body weight will be transferred to one leg, you will “step” on the lubricated block and will be able to push off without slipping. And while moving, the ski will be unloaded and will not cling to the snow. If the skis are soft (as described above), make a minimum last: 15 cm forward and backward from the toe of the boot.
Hold ointments for different air temperatures. It is better to have 2-3 types in your arsenal. Please note that on icy, hard ski tracks and on a route with a lot of climbs, the block is smeared according to the measured maximum length. But for soggy, wet or freshly fallen snow, not only do you need ointment just for this temperature, but you can also “sweeten” the block 1-2 cm shorter in front and behind. Focus on your feelings: if the block catches the snow when moving, shorten it next time.
And one last thing. Classic skating requires mastery of... the foot! You roll forward, transferring the main weight to the heel of the supporting leg (you cannot tilt your body back and straighten your knees). To push off, roll along your foot from heel to toe and straighten your knee, pushing your toe straight down, not back. Otherwise, no holding ointment will save you, you will slip. Practice, feeling your foot is not as difficult as it seems.
Secret five: in slush, lubricate your skis with fluoride ointment
Wet, muddy snow is perhaps the least favorite weather for skiers: skis stick to it and ride poorly. It takes a lot of strength to push them through. What if you are doing a 50 km marathon? That is why products that improve gliding have long been invented. First of all, these are sliding paraffins with fluoride additives: the more fluorine they contain, the better skis driving through wet snow. There are also accelerator powders, there is even more fluorine, with them the skis simply fly even on a muddy track.
Such means are mainly needed for competitions, but if the budget allows, they can also be used during training in heavy wet snow to enjoy sliding and not fall off after half an hour from fatigue. Typically, paraffins are used in training, since powders are expensive. They are applied either cold (smear the ski and rub it with a cork), or hot - using an iron. Of course, not the one you use to iron skirts, but a special ski one: it has a different spout shape and a different temperature range.
As you can see, ski training has many tricks and subtleties that will help you significantly save energy, extend your training time and get the maximum effect from it!
