To climb a rope, instead of grasping knots (see Fig. 12. ll section “Knots”), special devices are used - clamps. According to the principle of operation, there are bending type and cam type clamps. It is also possible to combine both principles in one design (Petzl clamp), as well as the use of other principles (for example, a system with a roller). The material for making the clamps is light alloys, although for industrial mountaineering they, like descenders, can be made of steel. Let's look at the main types of clamps (Fig. 13-lll).
"Abalaz" (1)- the simplest wire structure of the bending type, created by V.M. Abalakov. Shown here as a prototype of this type of clamp. For
Application at heights is not recommended, as it requires constant attention (there is a danger of the rope jumping out). In addition, in it, as in all bending clamps, the idle speed is too large, the result is too much energy consumption.
Hibeler system (2) is a combination of the bending and cam principles. The clamp is more difficult to manufacture, holds more securely, without slipping, but there is also a danger of the rope jumping out. Both of these systems (1 And 2) are given here for historical overview rather than as recommendations for use.
Clamp with swivel segment (3)- bending type. Reliability of holding is increased due to the rotating segment. It is reliable, since the rope, after being inserted into the clamp, is geometrically closed by the jaws of the clamp and the carabiner. The existing drawback - on a taut rope, an unloaded clamp can move down - can be eliminated if the rotary eccentric is slightly spring-loaded.
Jumar (4)- one of the common types of clamp. It was named after the inventors: the Swiss Juzy and Marty. Type - cam. Convenient to use due to the ease of putting on and taking off the rope, even with one hand. As a rule, it has a comfortable handle. Including under the left and under right hand. According to our custom, having met jumars for the first time many years ago, we now call all similar clamps from any company that way (and even jumars). These are the “Yvanovs” we are.
Floating roller system (5)(design by O. Dushin) works on a completely different principle than the previous ones: cylinders freely floating in the slots are captured by a rope due to friction and automatically jammed into the jaws of the clamp located at an angle to each other. If the cylinders are slightly spring-loaded from below, then the possibility of the loaded clamp slipping down the rope will be eliminated.
The diameter of the rope does not matter for this clamp. The strength of the clamp is determined by the strength of its body.
Shunt- bending action clamp. Can be used on double rope, has smooth cams that do not damage the braid. When working on two ropes, they must have the same diameter.
Croll- Petzl clamp (see photo 2 colored tabs). Attached directly to the ASC (chest harness or harness). Convenient for securing the rope when descending (location below the descender) and as belay and fixation when climbing the rope. Since with this arrangement there is no free flight in the event of a stall, it can be used without additional insurance devices. Such designs (including those from other companies) are also called chest clamps.
Of course, only the main types of clamps are listed here. There can be many modifications: bending and jamming, detachable and non-detachable, with a comfortable handle or only with a working unit, for a single rope or for a double rope, etc. When choosing a clamp for work, you need to consider the following requirements:
It must be strong enough and reliable (the clamp must have a certificate,
passport or test report),
It should not be possible for the rope to jump out of the clamp,
The cam and all parts in contact with the rope must not have sharp edges,
breaking the rope braid when clamping or when jerking,
In clamps of detachable structures, all parts must be secured to each other.
The scope of application of clamps is not limited to rope climbing. They are also used to create pulley systems for lifting loads, for temporarily fixing ropes, etc. In particular, in Fig. 13-ll (item 6) shows a device that is a combination of a cam-type clamp with a roller and is designed for pulling out loads (Minitraxion, Petzl, for example).
In practice, the question is often asked, Can lanyard clips be used instead of a catch knot?
The main danger in mountaineering is rappelling. However, you have to resort to this very often. Before starting such an operation, you should take into account all the little things, such as the choice of support, the length of the rope, the height, the possibility of subsequent removal of the rope, etc. You need to pay attention to all the little things and reduce the risk as much as possible.
DESCENT EQUIPMENT
Today there are a lot of devices for belaying and rappelling. It makes sense to have a device that performs both functions. Modern belay devices provide excellent rope descent, so in this article we will proceed from the fact that it is very stupid not to have an important detail of our safety.
INDIVIDUAL DESCENT
Below we will consider the best method for most situations, suitable for most situations. No additional equipment other than standard is required.
- The extension cord is equipped with 2 carabiners, one is attached to the loop of your harness, and the second is attached to the rope passed through the safety plate.
- Make sure the free end of your rope is at the bottom of the plate. Tie a French Prusik onto this end, subsequently connecting its loop to the trigger loop using another carabiner below the extension carabiner. (It’s written about nodes
- While moving, use your hand to maintain the prusik in a relaxed state, releasing the knot as needed to stop. For additional control of the descent with the other hand, the free end of the rope can be passed between the legs.
Italian embossed knot with a free carabiner on top of it
DESCENT USING ITALIAN SHAKING KNOT
The method will be useful if you drop the belay plate, or in conditions where the rope freezes and “stiffens” to such a state that it will not be possible to set it into the belay device. You need to use a triangular carabiner, which ensures a smooth descent.
■ When going down a double rope, tie both ends into one large Italian knot and fasten it into a carabiner. Be sure to control the lower end so that it does not hit the carabiner latch and screw off the coupling. Fasten the carabiner to the loop in the opposite direction from your dominant hand (if your hand is right, then fasten the carabiner with the latch to the left) and then the end of the rope will bend around the solid side of the carabiner without touching the latch.
CONSEQUENTIAL Descent
The principle is that the group leader controls the descent of less experienced members from below. The main advantage of this method is that on the route you, as the leader, descend first and set up an intermediate position.
When considering this method, we will assume that there are two inexperienced team members and will omit the details of ensuring safety at stops.
All three descenders are attached to the rope. The first two at the support are for beginners. Strap into your descender and belay device as usual. Attach a loop about a meter long to the other two devices and fasten the beginners to the loops. Then start descending.
The weight of your body will cause the rope to become taut and the beginner's descenders will become blocked. After you have descended and ensured your safety, the first of the newcomers can begin the descent. Belay the person descending without pulling on the rope, so as not to restrict movement and allow the person to control the speed of descent. At the same time, keep an eye on him and be ready at any moment to pull the rope and stop the descent. After the first one has descended, the second beginner can begin in the same way.
EMERGENCY DESCENT
A situation may arise (darkness, worsening weather, the wrong path, poor health, etc.) in which you will need to return from the slope. The procedure is described point by point in a logical sequence. In such a situation, climbers use a single rope.
- The second in the bunch gets to the position with a loop belay at the fastening point with an Italian knot.
- A support point is equipped.
- Climbers are secured to the support using loops passed through the harness with the lark's foot.
- The original safety system is removed.
- One of the climbers unties the rope and passes it through a new fulcrum until the middle mark appears.
- The one who gets untied clamps the rope in the hook, while the second one unties his harness.
- Knots are tied at the ends of the rope, the rope is wound around the hand and thrown down.
- The first person descending attaches the descender and belay devices to the rope, collects excess equipment, unfastens the lanyard loop from the support, hangs it from the back of the harness and begins the descent.
- Having descended to the next position and remaining fastened to the rappel rope, he prepares the next support point.
- Next, he fastens himself to a new support point through a loop on the harness and removes the descender and belay devices from the rope. Now he can help his partner go down. holding the ends of the rope loosely.
- The second descends in the same manner and, upon arrival, is fastened to the fulcrum and removes the descender and belay devices from the rope.
- The knots at the ends of the rope are untied.
- One end of the rope is pulled through the fulcrum, and the rope is pulled down to the middle mark.
- The rope at the level of the mark is clamped by one of the partners at the fulcrum, and the other pulls out the other end.
- Knots are then tied again at the ends of the rope, the ends are dropped to the next position, and the descent is resumed.
SAFETY MEASURES
The safety prusik is tied under and above the descender. It is necessary to take into account the mechanics of the system. If the knot is under the device, it is the latter that bears most of the person's weight, and the knot simply holds the rope at a safe 180° angle, providing maximum braking. If the prusik is placed above the descender, the entire weight of the climber falls on the knot, and the device is unloaded. The problem in this case is that the person is suspended from a 6mm cord, and if there is a jerk, the French Prusik can slip off. If, in order to avoid slipping, you use a prusik klemheist in this situation and it turns out to be loaded, then it will be almost impossible to loosen it again.
Thus, the upper location of the control unit is only possible when using an Italian blending unit. In this case, if the prusik is under the tapping knot, the latter will be held open with the ends of the rope at an angle of 180°, that is, in the position of least friction.
At the fulcrum
In case of organizing an emergency descent, it is advisable to have something with you that can be used to equip a support point. This could be a couple of old loops or pieces of tape. In the worst case scenario, you can use a knife to cut off a small piece from the main rope. There is no need to hang a carabiner on a fixed loop, and this is the only case when it is allowed to thread the main rope directly into the loop, that is, its contact with another element of soft equipment. During descent, the rope will be in a static state. When you pull the rope, it will rub against the loop, generating heat, but it will be the loop that heats up, not the rope.
For this reason, never use rope or tape loops found on slopes. It is possible that they were used for emergency descent and therefore may turn out to be extremely unreliable.
Tying the ends of the rope
The ends of the rope should be tied with one knot or another to avoid blocking the descent. It is best to use cloverleaf knots. As a result, any twists created during the descent process will be eliminated through the ends, rather than collecting in huge knots and weaves, which can easily happen if the ends of the rope are tied.
Tying rope
If two ropes are used to rappel, or the rope has been damaged by a falling rock, you will have to tie the two ends together. You can use a double fisherman's knot. The knot tends to tighten under load, so you can first tie the ropes with a reef knot, and then with a fishing knot. The reef knot will not allow the entire bundle to get confused and overtightened. On the other hand, each of these knots is quite voluminous and can get caught on stones when pulling the rope.
The method we recommend is simpler, although it may look a little scary. Bring the ends of the ropes together and... leaving tails approximately 45 cm long, tie a clover leaf in a knot and tighten. When pulling the rope from below, the knot itself will turn its flat side towards any obstacle and the likelihood of it getting caught will be less. It is clear that the knot should be at the end of the rope by which you will pull it in order to remove it from its fulcrum.
Dropping the rope
This simple action becomes especially important when there is wind or when the rope has to pass through a narrow crevice. Leaving two or three meters of rope free on the side of the fulcrum, do not put it in a coil, but wind it around your hand, placing the turns crosswise. Remove the skein from your elbow, grab it in the central part and throw it with force to where you intend to go down. Coiling the rope is better than laying it, since in this case the rope does not get tangled as it unwinds.
Position of the rope at the fulcrum
It would seem a small, but extremely important detail. When pulling the rope, pull at the end coming out from under the loop on the support. In this case, the rope does not press either the loop or the carabiner to the rock, it is subject to minimal friction, and you special effort bring it back to you.
Zhumar is a device for climbing a rope.
Officially, this piece of hardware is called a “clamp,” but the popular term “zhumar” is adopted, after the name of the first manufacturer.
Its purpose is to move up, not to move down.
For beginners, the clamp is the second most important tool. The first is the head.
Remember:
Do not allow the jumar with which you are attached to the rope to be below waist level. It's dangerous.
- I don’t do that!
- You're great. But read the article, it contains useful numbers.
If a load weighing 80 kg is tied to a piece of dynamic rope 60 cm long and dropped, it will create a load of 5.7 kN. And if the load is dropped from the same height, but using a Dainima lanyard, then the load will be 16.7 kN.
That is, if the jumar is attached to a rope lanyard, it will probably remain intact, but if it is attached to a Dainima sling, it will break. We recently wrote about loads in an article.
As experiments show, the clamps do not wait for destruction. With a load of 6 kN they tear the braid from the rope. Different clamps do this under different loads. The old Petzl in the video breaks the braid at a load of 6.14 kN, and the Vento clamps at 5.4 kN.
Grasping knots proved to be the “kindest” in relation to the rope. They tear off the braid at a load of 12 kN. There is a good article about grasping knots on Risk.ru - grasping knots at Risk.
Zhumar - climb the rope and open the beer
Zhumar is a device for climbing a rope. Officially, this piece of hardware is called a “clamp,” but the popular term “zhumar” is adopted, after the name of the first manufacturer. Its purpose is to move up, not to move down. For beginners, the clamp is the second most important tool. The first is the head.
Let's consider the strength of the clamps and errors when using them.
Remember:
Do not allow the jumar with which you are attached to the rope to be below waist level. It's dangerous.
This happens if you climb along the railing and move the clamp “for safety.” This is usually justified with the phrase: “It’s easier for me!”
You can't do that!
I don't do that!
- You're great. But read the article, it contains useful numbers.
The passport for Petzl clamps indicates a maximum load of 4–6.5 kN, for Ropeman from Wild Country - 4 kN, and Vento speaks of a maximum load above 550 kg.
If a load weighing 80 kg is tied to a piece of dynamic rope 60 cm long and dropped, it will create a load of 5.7 kN. And if the load is dropped from the same height, but using a Dainima lanyard, then the load will be 16.7 kN. That is, if the jumar is attached to a rope lanyard, it will probably remain intact, but if it is attached to a Dainima sling, it will break. We recently wrote about loads in the article “Comparison of nylon and Dyneema loops.”
We're exaggerating. Dynamics of a rope (even static), tightening of knots, relief and softness human body will make the load on the clamp less. We don’t have data to what extent, but we don’t want to check on ourselves.
Due to their aggressiveness, conventional clamps are not used in rescue operations.
If you have to climb a diagonal railing, secure the clamp with a carabiner.
Insert it into the hole at the top of the clip:
Or pass the rope through the carabiner on which the jumar hangs:
Manufacturers (in particular Petzl) allow both methods.
When moving, do not push the clamp against a knot in the rope. In this case, you will spend extra time removing it. Due to its structure and main function (to go up and not go down), the zhumar will get stuck in place. To remove, push it forward a little and open the cam.
We will not touch on the technique of moving on a zhumar in this article. Note that there are different ways to climb a rope:
- On one jumar
- On two:
- Arm-leg
- Leg-leg
- Chest-leg
- Using gripping knots
- Using a semi-automatic belay device (Gri-Gri and analogues) in combination with a gripping unit/clamp
You can also use the clamp to open beer.
Methodological material, developed as a teaching aid for teaching rope access techniques at the Industrial Mountaineering Training Center.
Methodological material developed as a teaching aid for teaching rope access techniques in Training Center "Industrial Mountaineering". Author: Anton Yuryev ( Notes from a rescuer)
Important
- It is necessary to constantly ensure that all carabiners are coupled and loaded along the main axis;
- The descender installed on the rope must be locked whenever the free end of the rope is not held in the hand;
- Keep hair and loose clothing away from the descender and other moving parts of the equipment;
- Avoid the possibility of high dynamic loads (breakdown) on the hand and chest clamps;
- It is necessary to constantly monitor correct position safety device;
- The belay device must not pass under the arm;
- By attaching the safety device first and removing it last, the worker eliminates the possibility of forgetting about the insurance;
Individual equipment
The whiskers are made of dynamic rope (EN 892 single rope). A figure eight or conductor is tied into the abdominal tying point. At the ends there are barrel, figure eight or conductor knots. The long mustache should be such that the worker, hanging on it, can reach the carabiner with his hand. The length of the short mustache should be such that its carabiner almost reaches the chin.
Devices
The ASAP safety device is attached to the thoracic point, and the worker’s harness is connected to an Absorbica or Asap’sorber shock absorber. The ASAP shock absorber is attached with an OK Triact-Lock carabiner.The descender is attached to the ventral point of the harness. The carabiner must be positioned in such a way that the latch is on the worker’s side during lowering. The latch axis should be on the side of the trigger device.
A hand clamp is attached to the long whisker.
The pedal is attached with a separate carabiner to the carabiner of the hand clamp. The pedal length is chosen so that when the leg is fully extended, the hand clamp is directly above the chest. 
Installing a rope into a descender (DS)
a) Storage, transportation
b) Lock
c) Descent
d) Anti-panic activation position (for ID)
e) Partner insurance
Rappelling
The descent is carried out by threading the rope through the SS. The speed of descent is regulated by the holding force of the free end of the rope. While descending, do not let go of the hand holding the free end of the rope. To start the descent, move the control handle to the descent position and gently press it.
The descent should be smooth, without jerks, maximum speed- 2 m/s.
When descending along a wall, rest against the wall with your knees slightly bent.
Stop
To stop, slowly release the handle. To free both hands, move the handle to the lock position. Do not release the free end of the rope until the device is locked.Freeing yourself from being stuck on a belay device
Exceeding the permissible descent speed results in the activation of the belay device. In this case, the device will be fixed to the rope and will be loaded with the worker’s weight.What to do when hanging on a belay device while descending
- Remove weight from the belay device: to do this, install a manual clamp on the working rope and stand on the pedals or climb up the rope on the descender;
- Unlock and lower the belay device;
- Continue actions interrupted by hanging on the belay device;
This method is used for lifting short distances. For longer distances, use clamp lifts. 
- Unlock the control system if it is blocked;
- Stand on the pedals, while simultaneously taking up the slack in the rope through the rope. Own weight rises with the help of the leg, and not by pulling up with the arms. The body is parallel to the rope;
- Transfer weight to the control unit;
- Repeat steps 2–4 until the goal is achieved;
Attaching the Clips to the Rope
Lifting technique
- Raise the hand clamp on the rope as high as possible while simultaneously performing a yielding flexion with the foot inserted into the pedal. Keep your foot underneath you;
- Stand on the pedals and move the chest clamp to the hand clamp. Your own weight is lifted using your legs, not by pulling yourself up with your arms. The body is parallel to the rope. When lifting, the rope should slide through the chest clamp without the intervention of the worker. To do this, the shoulder straps of the harness must be well tightened, the rope must be located between the worker’s legs and not cling to the equipment attached to the harness. For the first few meters of the climb you may need to pull the rope through the chest clamp by hand;
- Shift your weight to the chest clamp;
- Install a manual clamp with a pedal on the rope;
- Open the chest clamp cam;
- Stand on the pedals with your leg fully straightened;
- Place the chest clamp on the rope above the control system, transfer your weight to the chest clamp;
- Remove the SU from the rope;
- Place the descender on the rope below the chest clamp, but as close as possible to it, and block it;
- Remove the chest clamp from the rope, transfer the weight to the descender;
- Remove the hand clamp from the rope;
- Lower the hand clamp to the chest;
- Stand up slightly on the pedals to unload the chest clamp, press its cam with your finger;
- Bend the leg inserted into the pedal at the knee and lower the chest clamp down the rope;
- Remove your finger from the cam of the chest clamp before the mustache attached to the hand clamp tightens, transfer the weight to the chest clamp;
- Repeat these actions until the goal is achieved;
Passing the guy line
rise
- Pull yourself up by the quickdraw and unfasten the first quickdraw carabiner located above the devices. Holding onto the ropes extending down from the guy rope, smoothly move horizontally;
- Continue climbing;
Descent
Passing intermediate fastening
Descent
rise
- Go up to PZ. Leave 1–2 cm from the hand clamp to the knot;
- Continue climbing;
Passing nodes
- Move the hand clamp above the knot;
- Rise a little more on the clamps so that the chest clamp is a few centimeters from the knot;
- Place the descender on the working rope below the chest clamp and block it;
- Stand up on the pedals, unfasten the chest clip and move it above the knot, transfer your weight to the chest clip;
- Remove the descender from the working rope;
- Continue climbing;
- Go down to the node. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the trigger;
- Move from the trigger to the clamps;
- Lower the clamps to the knot. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the chest clamp;
- Install the descender below the knot, remove the slack so that the knot rests against the device, and block it;
- Stand on the pedals, disconnect the chest clamp from the rope, and smoothly transfer your weight to the descender. The hand clamp should be positioned so that it does not hang on its mustache;
- Remove the hand clamp;
- Continue descent;
- Descend/ascend to a node;
- Create a second attachment point to the safety rope: tie an Austrian guide knot and insert a mustache into its loop or install and block the descender;
- Move the belay device through the knot;
- Remove the second attachment point created in step 2;
- Continue driving;
Transition from one pair of ropes to another
Important!
During horizontal movement, the worker must be attached to four ropes: two working and two safety ropes. This method of organizing insurance prevents a fall along the trajectory of the pendulum if one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident when colliding with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.
Passing a long karem
rise
Descent
- Stand on the pedals of the hand clamp and disconnect the chest clamp, smoothly transfer your weight to the release device. Disconnect the hand clamp and belay device from the ropes to the PZ.
- Continue descent;
Working on spaced ropes
The method of working on spaced ropes allows you to expand the available space. The worker uses two pairs of ropes: two working ones holding him in the required position, and twosafety nets This method of organizing insurance prevents a fall along the trajectory of the pendulum if one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident.
in case of collision with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.
By issuing or retrieving the rope through the descenders, the worker can move horizontally and vertically. The use of descenders is similar to their use for
descent and ascent. 
If there are kinks between the descent area and the points where the ropes are secured, when the worker moves horizontally, the loaded ropes will move along the kinks, which can
lead to their damage. Ropes should be prevented from moving by using guy ropes or intermediate anchor points.
Overcoming the tread
During the climb
- Climb to the tread
- Remove the protector
- Rise above the tread installation location
- Continue driving
During the descent
- Go down to the tread
- Pull the rope away from the friction point
- Remove the protector
- Go below the tread installation location
- Restore the location of the tread on the rope
- Continue driving
Moving along structures using a mustache with a shock absorber
The worker moves around structures by climbing. Insurance is carried out by sequentially rearranging the mustache, containing a shock absorber and attached to point A on the worker’s harness.
If it is necessary to free his hands to perform any actions, the worker, in addition to the yoke with a shock absorber, attaches to the structure with a yoke connected to the abdominal
strapping point, and hangs on it.
To free your hands, you can also join the girth structure. The mustache that encircles the structure is connected to the side points of the harness or to the abdominal point. On the design
located above the attachment points to the harness, the depth of possible sliding of the mustache along the structure in the event of a fall is no more than 0.5 meters. The worker leans with his feet. 
Important:
Moving along artificial support points in the horizontal direction
Moving along pillars using loops
Three loops are used for movement: one as a support for the leg, the second to support the worker’s weight, and the third for insurance. On surfaces with good friction, the hinges are attached toon a pole using a semi-grasping knot, on slippery ones - using a Prussian knot.
The holding loop is attached to the abdominal point of the harness, the safety loop is attached to the thoracic point
A. The leg loop is not attached to the harness.
rise
- Stand on a leg loop
- Raise the holding and safety loops higher up the pole
- Hang on the holding loop
- Raise the leg loop higher up the post
- Repeat these steps until the goal is achieved
Rescue of the victim when hanging on the descender
- It is necessary to give the victim as vertical a position as possible. To do this, the chest point of the harness of the victim is connected with a sliding carabiner to the rope above his descender (or a carabiner to the carabiner of his descender), after which, if necessary, the shoulder straps of the harness are tightened;
- Lower the clamps until the short mustache is tensioned. Release the chest clamp and transfer your weight to the short arm. Disconnect the hand clamp and your belay device;
- Carry out descent using the descender device of the victim;
Important!
The use of a victim's ropes for a rescue operation is permitted only if they and their anchorage points have not been damaged. Unacceptable
use equipment subjected to high loads.
Rescue of a victim hanging on a chest clamp
- Climb up to the victim using clamps, using his safety rope as your working rope, and his working rope as your safety rope. You need to be on the same level as the victim: if necessary, raise his belay device higher along the rope, you can move the hand clamp above the victim’s belay device;
- Attach a long mustache to the abdominal harness point of the victim, and then move the safety device above his chest clamp;
- Pull the victim’s chest towards you and attach the chest point of his harness with a carabiner to the carabiner of your descender. If the length of one carabiner is not enough to perform this action, use a chain of two or three carabiners or a short anchor loop (no more than 30 cm, you can fold a longer loop several times);
- Disconnect the victim's whisker from his hand clamp. Disconnect the victim’s safety device from the rope;
- Attach the pedal to the chest point of the victim’s harness and pass it through the carabiner attached to the victim’s hand clamp. Adjust the pedal so that its length is maximum;
- Disconnect the victim's chest clamp. Take out as much slack as possible in the trigger device and block it;
- Bend the leg inserted into the pedal at the knee and transfer the weight to the trigger device. Disconnect the pedal from the victim, remove the hand clamp from the rope;
- Pass the rope coming out of the descender through an additional carabiner to increase friction. Carry out descent;
Important!The program was developed by rope access specialist Anton Yuryev for
The use of a victim's ropes for a rescue operation is permitted only if they and their anchorage points have not been damaged. It is unacceptable to use equipment that has been subjected to high loads.
Original taken from mr_aug V
Original taken from survivalpanda in Vertical training for beginners. Educational program. Entry-level theory and practice
In this article I will try, to the best of my understanding, to explain the basics of mountain training as simply as possible for absolute beginners in the topic.
I’ll tell you about the terms and simple techniques of descent and ascent that anyone can master.
Just a few months ago, I had to surf the Internet for quite a long time to collect this information, so I decided to systematize and present it as simply as possible, I think it will be useful.
The article turned out to be long, but you can’t erase the words from the song. It took a long time to write. Directly in parallel with writing, I tested or mastered something new and included it in the article.
I also do not rule out some mistakes that I could well have made.
Warning: it is better to do such things under the supervision of professionals. Otherwise, you can very easily get killed or injured.
So. It all started with a great bang. All mountain training, according to my classification, is divided into two types of organization of rope movement. This is an upward movement i.e. ascent and downward movement i.e. descent.
Now we will slowly begin to examine each piece of equipment and term that may come across on the thorny path of a beginner who wants to get a little familiar with this topic.
The first thing we need is rope.
Without a rope, we won’t climb anywhere and then we won’t get down from there.
There are two types of ropes used in mountaineering: static(statics - slang) and dynamic(dynamics - slang). They are distinguished by dynamic qualities, namely the ability to elongate under load.
The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb the shock that occurs when a climber falls (we will talk about the fall factor below). Therefore, dynamics are very often used for insurance when climbing. For bottom belay it is generally required.
For simple descent and ascent along a rope, a beginner will only need to purchase a static rope. A bay of 50 m is enough for everything and there will still be some left. A budget option would be to purchase domestic rope (Kolomna, Dzerzhinsk, etc.).
Standard diameters used in mountaineering are 9-11 mm (in industrial alps - 10-12). The more, the stronger and heavier the rope. The more it slows down in the trigger device.
I advise you to stay at the golden mean - 10 mm.
And if we touched the ropes, then we cannot ignore cord(repik, repchik - slang). This is an auxiliary static rope with a diameter of 3-8 mm. It has a bunch of uses, from organizing self-insurance to making laces.
In general, there was no paracord lying around.
I use a 5mm cord, a coil of which is almost always in my backpack.
Looks like we've sorted out the ropes.
From the ropes we smoothly move to the knots.
There are a lot of different knots and you can learn them endlessly. I will focus only on a few that, in my opinion, are most in demand.
Firstly this eight, one might say, is the main unit that can be used in almost any case. A very reliable knot that practically does not weaken the rope.
A figure eight is used for tying both to an individual safety system (ISS) and to a support. For connecting and extending ropes, in general for almost everything.
You need to learn how to knit a figure eight stitch.
Bowline- a very common knot for tying and creating loops. Less reliable than figure eight, but knits faster. A control node is required. Not completely reliable. Better tie a figure eight.
You need to know at least one grasping knot. Then we will use them to insure ourselves.
What a knot UIAA(UIAA), needed for emergency descents and descents with a minimum of equipment.
Pay attention! The free end of the rope should come out from the side opposite to the carabiner coupling.
Have you bought a rope, mastered the knots, can you now climb and descend?
In principle, yes, you can rappel without any equipment, just like in the good old days.
To rappel - to rappel down. Many people think that this is any descent, but this is not so. Dulfer is a technique of descent named after the inventor.
So, it is possible to go down this way, but it is not safe and inconvenient.
For convenience and safety, they have been invented for quite some time. Personal Safety Systems(ISS, system, gazebo, hanging).
They serve to distribute the load on the body when hanging and falling and prevent you from falling.
There are systems full And waist.
I use a belt system. If desired, it can be turned into a full one by purchasing special straps.
For beginners, I would recommend a regular ASC without shoulders.
If needed budget option, then a domestic company Vento. In any case, you should not take systems consisting only of slings. People affectionately call them “egg slicers.” If you have enough money, then it’s better not to skimp and take something from famous brands Petzl, Black Diamod, etc.
The following photo shows the main elements of the safety system:
Leg loops
Waist circumference
Safety ring (green)
Loops for hanging equipment - they are not load-bearing, and under no circumstances should you belay or hang on them.
We've sorted out the safety systems.
Now we need combine the rope with the iss. There are two ways to do this. With a knot and through a carabiner.
The knot is the same figure eight, and I’ll tell you about the carbines a little lower.
The carabiner clips into the central safety loop. This is a strong recommendation from all manufacturers.
Very often they teach how to fasten into a belt loop and a leg loop at the same time - this is a mistake because... increases the chance that the carabiner will skew and it will be loaded in the transverse direction. Only a knot can be attached to both loops at the same time.
If you don’t believe me, then read the instructions for your ISS.
Now let's move on to carbines.
So, what are there carbines.
Firstly, they are either coupled or uncoupled.
Their difference is that the clutch ones are equipped with a special clutch that prevents the carbine from opening spontaneously.
Couplings There are threaded, bayonet and automatic.
Automatic ones are easy to operate with one hand, but their reliability leaves much to be desired. I recommend using carabiners with threaded couplings. And the main thing is to always make sure that the carabiner is locked.
Also, carbines differ in shape and are: oval, trapezoidal, triangular, pear-shaped, etc.
Oval carabiners are the most versatile and inexpensive.
Trapezoidal ones with the same weight have greater strength than oval ones.
Triangular and pear-shaped carabiners have increased rope clearance. They are more convenient to fasten and use the UIAA knot.
Carabiners are made from different materials. These are steel, aluminum alloys and titanium.
Steel carabiners are heavy and very durable, aluminum carabiners are much lighter. Titanium ones are quite rare and I have not communicated with them.
Now for strength.
Each carabiner is marked like this. It means that the carabiner from the photograph in a locked state will withstand a load of 22 kN (2.2 tons) in the longitudinal direction. 8 kN if the latch is open and 8 kN in the transverse direction.
You see how important it is to couple the carabiners and make sure that they are positioned as they should.
Pay attention! The carabiner coupling should always be facing you. This way you will see if the carbine has accidentally become loose.
If there is a possibility that the load will be applied from several sides, so-called rapids are used. These are steel carabiners that do not have a folding latch, but only a threaded coupling.
For a beginner, I would advise buying 3-4 carabiners of different shapes with threaded couplings. Manufacturing material - optional.
Let's move on to Descenders(SU, trigger).
The main principle of operation of all control systems is the creation of rope friction in the mechanism. As a result, you can control the descent with very little effort.
There are SUs manual And automatic.
In manual control systems, the speed of descent and braking depends only on the method of threading the rope and on the force with which the person pulls the rope below the control system.
Automatic release devices have a special mechanism. Pull the handle and go down. Let go of the handle and freeze. In this case, the free end of the rope must still be controlled.
In this article I will only talk about hand-held devices because... For a beginner who does not plan to engage in industrial alpine activities, automatic devices are completely redundant.
And I’ll tell you about two types of triggers - the figure eight and the Shikht washer.
SS eight- This is one of the most classic devices. It looks something like this.
The horn is needed to fix the rope, there are eights and without horns.
The disadvantage is that the figure eight twists the rope. This means that after several descents the rope will be full of “lambs” that will then have to be untangled.
The advantages include several options for threading the rope.
There are two of them. Through the carabiner (the descent speed is higher) and through the neck of the figure eight.
Well, at any moment the horned eight can be blocked by winding a rope around the horn.
Another, more modern version of the figure eight is the Petzl piranha. Has even more ways to clip in and adjust the release speed. More details about this trigger will be in a separate review.
By the way, take a look at this carbine. When it is uncoupled, the red anodizing strip is visible - a great idea, in my opinion.
The second type of manual control system is washer charge. They are: glass, basket, reverso, etc.
Works great with single and double rope. They don't spin it. In general, I recommend starting with just such a trigger.
Threading the rope is carried out as follows. A loop is created and threaded through a slot on the device. The free end of the rope is directed towards the SU jaws.
A carabiner is attached inside the loop.
Pay attention! The cable is a non-loadable part and is used only for transportation.
Let's say the stars align. You have purchased a coil of rope, an ASC, carabiners and a belay device.
Good, still needed helmet. But I’ll leave that up to your conscience.
Although even a banal construction helmet won’t hurt.
I use ballistic helmets, which doesn't always cause a healthy reaction.
Will not be superfluous knee pads. Otherwise, bruises on the knees cannot be avoided.
Good ones are just as important. gloves. When descending quickly, the rope rubs and burns your palm; you may instinctively let go of the rope out of pain, which can be fatal.
Now we take all this and go to an impromptu climbing wall.
Don’t forget to invite a friend with you who will provide insurance. Have you forgotten? Well done!
Our climbing wall will be a small wall from which you can climb down. In the photo, for example, a retaining wall.
For the first training, the lower the better.
Now we put on the harness. Tighten and check all buckles. We ask a friend to check again.
The first step is to secure the rope. In mountaineering, it is customary to fasten either to one absolutely reliable point, or to two less reliable ones. These rope attachment points are called stations.
We will be tied to a living tree. This is a very reliable attachment point.
We tie ourselves to the tree with the same blessed eight, or with a bowline, not forgetting the control knot.
There is another option to buy yourself guy from a 120 cm long sling and use a carabiner to create a station like this.
Using a half-grabbing knot reduces strength by 50 percent, but the "noose" ( semi-grasping knot) allows you to gain a foothold higher.
We'll do it like this.
Well, in general, such sling guy lines are very useful on the farm. You should take a couple.
The station was created. First of all, we secure ourselves to it with a lanyard. If you don’t know what it is, then you can play it safe with a replica, like I do in the photo.
And while we're on the subject, I'll say a few words about lanyard mustache.
These are pieces of sling or dynamic rope, which are attached to the system at one end and to the belay point at the other.
There are industrial production and self-connected.
The purchased ones look like this.
Self-connected like that. The mustache is attached to the system using a figure eight knot.
The first mustache, as a rule, has a standard length of 55 cm. It is mainly used for securing to surrounding objects, such as the station that we made in the previous step.
The zhumar is usually attached to the second mustache. Its length should be such that, hanging on this mustache, you can reach the latch of the zhumar (I’ll tell you what the zhumar looks like, where its latch is and what it actually is a little below).
At the free ends of the lanyards, knots are tied into which carabiners are fastened. I use a half grapevine with three turns. If you don’t know how to do this kind of knot, use a figure eight.
Now let's go back to the beginning of the "cycle". We found support. We created a station on it, clicked on the lanyard. Did it work? Well done!
Now, at the end of the rope along which we will go down, we knit a figure eight and snap it into the carabiner that we hung at the station.
At the other end of the rope we also tie a knot and throw the bay into the “abyss”.
This knot ensures that even if the rope does not reach the bottom, you will simply stop and not fall by slipping past the end.
Even if you think the rope has reached the bottom, you still need to make sure. Ask a friend below.
If the rope passes through the edge of the wall and rubs against it, then you should put it on it tread. This is a strip of dense material (teza, a piece of fire hose, etc.) with Velcro. Wraps around the rope and protects against abrasion.
If you don’t put on the protector, then after a couple of times you get this picture. Agree, that’s not the point.
We thread the rope into the descender (I hope you didn’t forget it below). Pull the free end up and take up the slack.
Now, if you pull the free end of the rope, you will not be able to fall.
At this stage, you can snap the lanyard arm out of the station.
By the way, your insurance will be based on the same principle. There should be a belayer standing below, and it is advisable that it is not yours worst enemy, who is already rubbing his sweaty palms in anticipation of your fall.
The belayer must be ready to pull the free end of the rope.
He should not be distracted from belaying by pretty climbers or talking on his cell phone. All his attention should be focused on you.
We place the hand with the rope under the butt, while the rope will be additionally controlled on the thigh.
We go out with our backs to the edge, slowly giving out the rope by easy relaxing the palm.
While resting your feet, we hang the fifth point so that your legs are at right angles to the wall. The back is straight and parallel to the wall.
We make the first descent slowly, in steps. We rearrange our legs and slowly release the rope until we touch the ground.
Congratulations, the first descent is completed!
In the future, the descents can be made more difficult as desired.
You can and should move from an insuring comrade to self-insurance(and also, for maximum security, both of these options can be combined).
This is precisely why we learned the grasping knot.
The knot is usually knitted either above the SU or below. What's the difference?
If we knit a grasping knot above the suction knot, then in case of failure we hang on it. The descender becomes unloaded.
To continue the descent, we need to loosen the knot and load the descender again. In order to loosen the knot we need to rise a little. To do this, we will need a clamp (I will talk about them later) or tie a stirrup on a rope.
In general, the task is not very trivial.
A simpler option is to tie a catching knot below the tie knot. The autoblock unit is used in the photo.
In this case, during a breakdown, we remain hanging on the knot, while the trigger remains loaded.
We only need to grab the rope between the control system and the knot, thereby unloading the knot, it will be possible to loosen it and continue the descent.
Like good method, but it also has disadvantages. If the reason for the failure is the destruction of the control system, then we will be turned upside down, which is very unpleasant. Although this probability is quite small, it should not be neglected.
Read more about attaching lanyards below the control system in a very sensible article:
That's it, the descent is mastered. You can not stop there, but continue training, for example, master the elements of assault mountaineering, which basically consists of spectacular descents.
Even if you stop after mastering only the basics, you have already acquired skills that can, in the event of certain circumstances, such as a fire in a stairwell, save your life.
Everything about the descent.
Now is the moment to touch upon rise along the rope, but first I’ll tell you a little about the clamps.
Clamp- a device that moves freely along the rope, but when a load occurs, the device is fixed, clamping the rope, hence the name.
To climb a rope you need two clamps or one clamp + an automatic belay device.
The most common clamp is zhumar. This is a clamp with a handle that is comfortable to hold. The most convenient tool for lifting (this is where the term zhumarit comes from, meaning to rise). It is advisable to have at least one.
Jumars can be left or right, for any hand.
The operating principle of the zhumar is quite simple. It is based on pressing the rope with a spring-loaded cam with spikes.
We put the open jumar on a rope and snap it into place. It slides upward freely along the rope, and when loaded it is fixed. It is impossible to remove a loaded jumar.
For greater security, you can click the carabiner like this.
A pedal is attached to the handle of the jumar. Still the most strong muscles at a person's feet.
The pedal should be such a length that when standing in it with a fully straightened leg, the jumar is at chest level.
Let the jumar be our first clamp. The second clamp can also be a jumar, but for the left hand.
Lifting on two zhumars is done like this.
We stand on the left pedal. We push the right jumar along the rope as high as possible, while bending the right leg at the knee. Making a push right foot- "let's go up a step." Then we push the left jumar, etc.
It is better to secure both jumars with a self-insurance mustache.
Instead of the second zhumar, you can (and even need) take crawl. This is a clamp that is very similar to a jumar with a sawn-off handle. He hangs himself on his chest. In case of use with a waist-mounted ASC, it is necessary to additionally hang a special rope around the neck.
The principle of lifting using a pair of jumar + crawl.
I will further demonstrate this method in a separate video.
We hang out on the crawl. We push the jumar as high as possible, bending the leg with the pedal on the knee. We pull ourselves up on the pedal. The rope itself passes through the crawl. Then we hang on the crawl and push the jumar further.
In this case, you can hold onto the jumar with both hands, and put both legs into the stirrup of the jumar.
Lifting using jumar + crawl is the fastest and easiest to learn.
There is an option to do without jumar altogether.
For example, using the crawl + pantin pattern.
Pantin- this is the same crawl, only attached to the boot. The lifting principle is similar.
But I would advise you to buy at least one zhumar. In addition to climbing, you can also insure yourself on it, although it is not recommended.
The second type of clips that I highlight are safety clips.
You climb, and the belay clip rides next to you on the second rope, or above you if there is only one rope.
They go up freely, and when they fall down they are blocked and prevent you from falling. The most famous representatives: various drops, shants, backups and asaps.
I also want to mention the various mini-clamps. They are capable of performing functions similar to large ones, although they are less reliable and convenient. Their undeniable advantage is their low weight and size.
As a result, one or two of these clips can always be kept on the harness. You can read more about them in the review.
In general terms, everything about the climb.
Now about the unpleasant, namely about breakdowns. And even more specifically about the jerk factor.
A newcomer entering any forum to discuss any hardware almost immediately sees this term.
Its essence is very simple to understand.
"Jerk Factor" is the ratio of the height of the fall to the length of the rope that stops it.
A rather rough indicator by which it is easy to determine whether a given piece of hardware will fall apart when jerked or not.
I strongly recommend avoiding falls with a factor greater than one.
Quite simply: if we have secured something (a guy rope, belay device on the second rope, etc.), the belay point should not be below the waist.
That's all. Thank you for your attention!
