Not just the health of the cyclist, but his life, and the lives of the other participants, depend on the proper operation of the brakes - an important part of the bicycle. traffic. Therefore, when buying this two-wheeled vehicle, it is important to choose a model with a reliable braking system that will allow you to stop the bike almost instantly in an emergency.
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Are V brakes or disc brakes used more often than others today? Making a choice in favor of a v brake or another is not always easy due to the wide variety of braking systems.
The first ones come in two types:
- mechanical, using a jacket with a cable for compression, are divided into cantilever and pincer;
- hydraulic, stopping using brake fluid pumped into the hydraulic line.
The second ones are:
- mechanical;
- hydraulic;
- hybrid ones, which have a disc brake on the front wheel and a rim brake on the rear wheel.
The choice of one type or another is influenced by the following factors:
- operating mode, i.e. how and where you are supposed to travel;
- the amount you can spend.
The rim group includes vibration brakes, which are much cheaper than disc ones.
This also includes:
- cantilevers;
- tick-borne
The principle of operation of the v brake (if you do not pay attention to some details) is unusually simple: the pads on both sides simultaneously compress the rim due to the force transmitted by the cable from the brake handle, as a result of which the wheel stops.
From the nineties until recently, there was no alternative to rim brakes. Most of the designs were equipped with rim brakes for the bicycle. Then disc brakes appeared, but vibration brakes have not lost their relevance due to a number of advantages. These days they are still popular and are found on many bikes. So, which one should you prefer - disc or rim brakes?
Advantages
Their high popularity is explained by their low weight, normal braking force, lightness, low cost, and ease of maintenance. It is easy to replace the cable and pads, for example, in any conditions, with a hexagon.
The advantages are also:
- the braking force they create is sufficient for driving on city and dirt roads;
- there is no alternative to them in terms of price (unless the quality is worse);
- simple design allows adjustment to be made by any cyclist who has a hex screwdriver of the required size;
- it is easy to replace brakes due to the fact that parts are available in any store;
- behave well when transporting a bicycle: the wheels are quickly released and there is nothing to break;
- have the least weight.
Flaws
Of course, like others, they have shortcomings. The most important of them is considered to be poor braking in bad weather and driving through puddles. True, it helps to somewhat correct the situation by briefly pressing the brake handle, allowing it to dry out.
The braking force is also reduced if there is a figure eight on the wheel, as well as if the gap between the block and the wheel rim is incorrectly adjusted. In order to prevent this, it is recommended to periodically tighten the cable.
Another reason for the reduced braking performance of disc brakes is the wear of the rim and pads, which accelerates when dirt gets on them. To eliminate this, special pads are installed that have grooves to drain away dirt.
Prolonged braking, during which the rim heats up, also leads to rapid wear of the pads and damage to the tires. Some consider the disadvantage of v brakes to be the fact that it is impossible to install a tire wider than 2.5 inches on the wheel.
The listed disadvantages are not so significant for the average cyclist, so we can talk about brakes of this type as the best choice.
This type came from motorcycles and at the beginning of its expansion was a brake used by extreme sports enthusiasts. Today its niche has expanded, so it is found on recreational bikes and budget cross-country bikes.
This type of brakes is divided depending on the type of drive into mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes. In the first case, the force is transmitted to the pads using a cable, in the second - by brake fluid filling the hydraulic line.
Mechanical ones have the same problems that the v brake cable drive has, but they have improved braking.
Advantages
The advantages include:
- the most powerful braking among brake systems for bikes;
- work without loss of power in bad weather (snow and rain);
- no fear of “eights” and no wear on the rims;
- longer life of discs and pads;
- no need for maintenance (for hydraulic);
- heating of the brake disc, rather than the wheel rim, on long descents;
- Tire size is not important;
- attractive appearance.
Flaws
But they also have many disadvantages:
- design diversity even in one model range, which eliminates interchangeability;
- difficulty in finding spare parts and maintenance;
- difficulty of repair in the field (requires special tools, cleanliness, concentration;
- difficulty in transportation (it is easy to bend the disc when the wheel is removed), but straightening it is quite difficult;
- the danger of oil getting on the disc during lubrication, which leads to brake failure and requires replacing the pads, which is quite expensive;
- toxic brake fluid used in many DOT models). In case of careless maintenance, contact with the frame leads to damage to its coating;
- the risk of brake fluid boiling during long descents, which leads to loss of control over the bicycle;
- problems with installing the trunk;
- greater weight than v-brake;
- high cost (2-4 times compared to analogues).
From the above, a conclusion suggests itself: in the segment of bicycles priced above 20 thousand rubles, v brake brakes have clearly lost their position. This is due to the fact that frames and suspension forks are increasingly being produced with holes designed for disc brake calipers installed on expensive bicycle models.
But, on vehicles in the segment up to 15 thousand rubles, i.e. On budget models, they are not installed, so this niche still belongs to v-brake brakes.
Whether to buy a bike with mechanical or hydraulic disc brakes depends on how the bike is going to be used. It is recommended to give preference to disc brakes if their advantages are truly necessary. In other cases, choose a reliable, lightweight, simple and durable V-brak.
Setting up the brakes
Setting up the v brake is not a tricky matter, because the pads can be adjusted in several planes. The pads need to be replaced if the abrasion has reached the grooves designed to drain dirt. Even in this case, the surface of the pads should have uniform wear. Otherwise, it can be argued that they are not installed correctly. But they will still have to be replaced. To do this you need to have the appropriate tool, including a hexagon. The trunk, if any, must be removed so that it does not interfere. Next, holding the brake levers together, remove the tip of the shirt, which serves as the beginning of the cable. After this, they proceed to replacing the spare part.
Cartridge pads are easier to change. The rubber gasket requires replacement. The metal frame is not used. Having taken out the rod that holds the pad, it is carefully moved to install the pads, which are marked “right” and “left”. Having installed them in place of the worn ones and secured them with a rod, the work is considered completed.
When installing conventional pads, the main thing is not to confuse the sequence of installation of parts after replacement. After installation, it is necessary to adjust the pads.
The adjustment is necessary because, operated by pressing the brakes on the handlebars, they must grip the rim tightly to brake the wheel. In addition to correctly adjusted columns, the quality of braking is affected by the condition of the cable, so it is recommended to make sure that it moves freely in the jacket, that the weave is intact, and that there are no tears. If this is not the case, the cable needs to be changed so that in a critical situation you are not left without brakes.
The adjustment is made using the nuts available in the pad fasteners and adjusting the angles of inclination in them. All of them need to be loosened by squeezing the brake all the way. Then manually set the pads to a horizontal position and press them firmly against the rim (first the back part, then the entire pad). But at the same time, they should not touch the tires. Once you are sure of this, tighten the nuts without changing the position of the pads.
It is also necessary to adjust the levers. To do this, there is a cross-shaped screw that regulates the tension of the spring that holds the levers. The spring will be more elastic if the screw is tightened more. But it will be harder for the lever to move. Unscrew the screw and loosen the stroke.
Video: Setting up rim brakes
The process of setting up disc brakes cannot be called complicated. This can be done without the help of specialists.
Necessary:
- center the caliper, securing the wheel, in relation to the rotor, using the included washers of various thicknesses, which should be installed between the caliper and the mount on the frame;
- The position of the caliper can be changed by tightening different strengths bolts and selecting the thickness of gaskets to the millimeter;
- The pads should be moved apart if the rotor rubs against them by unscrewing the special hexagon on the caliper. This will cause the brakes to work later;
- You need to screw in the hexagon to reduce the stroke of the brake lever;
- To prevent air from entering the system when carrying out work, there is no need to turn the bike over and press the handle when there is no oil in the system and the rotor is not installed between the pads. Otherwise, they may shrink, and to open them you will have to remove the caliper;
- After completing the operations, the bolts must be tightened again and checked to see if the brake disc is warped.
Video: How to set up a disc brake
These brakes are very sensitive to wheel axis displacement, so to prevent the rotor from rubbing against the pad in the future, it is recommended to tighten the eccentrics or bolts while sitting on the bike or pressing the front shock absorber.
- The adapter must be screwed tightly, for which a caliper is installed in the same way as described above. Adjust the position of one of the pads by extending it by unscrewing the screw half a turn.
- Before this operation, for Hayes systems, the locking hexagon is unscrewed, which is returned to its place after the adjustment is completed.
- The caliper is carefully pressed against the rotor until its plane coincides with the stationary block.
- After this, you need to alternately tighten the caliper mounting bolts. During the operation, the jacket and cable are disconnected. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the planes of the pad and the brake disc do not move relative to each other.
- When both hexagons are tightened, return the pad adjusting bolt to its original position.
- Check friction by spinning the wheel. If there is none, you can slightly pull out the block, which is motionless, using the adjusting bolt. If it is present, reverse actions are required.
- The lever with the attached cable is then tightened, pressing the movable block. In this case, the rotor moves slightly towards the static block.
- Having installed the cable with the jacket in the desired position in the lever, check the outer block, which must be pressed, tightening the required bolt.
- The brake lever is squeezed out before the working stroke begins, placing the cable in the desired position, tightening its fastening. Next stage– checking the pad for friction: slightly tighten the adjustment knob if the pad is rubbing and vice versa.
Video: How to set up mechanical disc brakes
Now you can decide for yourself which bike brake is best?
It is unlikely that anyone will argue with the fact that brakes are one of the most important parts of any vehicle. And, in particular, a bicycle. Bicycle brakes carry a lot of responsibility. They are responsible for health, and sometimes even for human life. Therefore, when purchasing a bicycle, you should pay attention to their quality. An inexperienced cyclist coming to the store may get confused by the variety of systems. Therefore, first you need to understand what brakes are and how they can differ from each other.
Brake types
The bicycle market is growing and developing rapidly. Every year more and more new technologies, solutions and spare parts appear. Therefore, some parts become outdated and cannot withstand the competition. Today we will discuss those types of bicycles that are actively used in our time.
So, bicycle brakes come in the following types:
- Drums.
- Rim (in turn divided into: cantilever, pincer, hydraulic, and V-break).
- Disc (there are: mechanical and hydraulic).
According to popular classification, the first type is called a pedal brake, and the rest are called manual brakes. Now let's look at each type separately.
Drum brakes
This type has been known to many since childhood. These are the brakes that were installed on the legendary “Ukraine” bicycle, as well as children’s bicycles “Orlyonok”, “Lastochka” and others. It is often called rear or pedal. This is true, because it is located in the rear wheel hub and is activated by rotating the pedals in the direction opposite to the stroke. As a result of the rotation of the carriage in the opposite direction, the brake pads installed inside the drum move apart and press the drum. Braking occurs due to the friction force between the pads and the drum. To date this type used in children's bicycle models, as well as in budget models of adult city bicycles.
Advantages of drum brakes:
- Durability. It is mainly due to the fact that practically no moisture, dust and dirt get into the closed mechanism.
- The drum brake does not wear out
- Simplicity. These brakes do not require constant maintenance.
- Work even if the wheel is bent, do not require fine adjustments.
Flaws:
- Heavy weight.
- It takes a lot of effort to brake.
- Inability to use on multi-speed bicycle models.
- Presence of a dead zone. When the connecting rods are in a vertical position, braking is impossible.
- If the chain falls off the sprocket, the brake will stop working.
- Bicycle drum brakes make it difficult to brake quickly. When everyone counts it is very important.
Drum brakes are used on simple ones. In case the chain falls off, for greater safety, many use front wheel additional brake of a different type.
Bicycle rim brakes
The drum brake bushing is gradually becoming obsolete. And the leading positions in the market are occupied by rim and disc brakes. Rims are by far the most popular because they are more practical than drums and cheaper than discs. The principle of operation of this mechanism is quite simple: when the cyclist presses the handle located on the handlebar, a cable is pulled, which transmits force to the brake levers, and they, in turn, press the pads to the wheel rim. Here, again, the force of friction is at work. Now let's talk in more detail about each type of rim brake.
Cantilever brakes
The mechanism consists of two levers, each of which has brake pads. The levers are attached to the pivots on the fork. With the help of two rods, the cable moves the levers that press the pads. The device is reliable and simple, but it is becoming less and less common on modern bicycles. Other types, with more efficient mechanisms, are gradually replacing it.
Clamp brakes
Bicycle brakes of this type are most often used on road bike models. Their name perfectly characterizes the design: the pads are pressed against the rim using curved levers that look very much like pliers. Clamp brakes, like cantilever brakes, are gradually becoming obsolete.
Hydraulic rim brakes
Unlike the two previous types, the design of such brakes does not include rotating levers on which the pads are attached, and cables that operate these levers. The principle of operation here is slightly different. The brake handle, located on the steering wheel, contains a cylinder with fluid. When pressed, it transmits pressure through special tubes to two cylinders mounted on the fork. These cylinders push the pads in a direction perpendicular to the rim, resulting in friction and braking. Bicycle brakes of this type are very effective, which is why they are used in trials. Due to their heavy weight, difficulties in maintenance, poor modulation (the ability to dose the braking force with a handle) and inability to repair in difficult weather conditions, hydraulic rim brakes have not taken root in other types of cycling.
V-brake
As practice and reviews show, this is the most common type of rim brake today. According to the principle of operation, they are very similar to cantilever ones. The cable is routed from the side, to the top of one of the brake levers. When you press the handle, the levers on which the cartridge pads are mounted move towards each other and stop the wheel. Thanks to parallel pressing of the pads, braking is very effective. Cartridge pads bicycle brakes Easily replaced using a simple hexagon.
Since this type of rim brake is the most common on the modern market, we will dwell in more detail on its advantages and disadvantages noted by users.
So, the advantages:
- A simple and very effective design that provides good braking force.
- Light weight compared to drum and disc brakes.
- Low cost.
- Durability of the mechanism.
There were also some drawbacks:
- Reduced efficiency when moisture and dirt get on the rims.
- Acceleration of rim wear if dirt gets on it.
- Inability to use wide tires.
- If the wheel is uneven (has “figure eights”), it is difficult to set up brakes of this type to perform well.
Bicycle disc brakes
Disc brakes migrated to the bicycle industry from the automobile and motorcycle industries. As reviews from athletes and ordinary people show, this type is the most practical. Depending on the drive, disc brakes can be mechanical or hydraulic. In the mechanical version, the force from the handle to the brake is transmitted through a cable, and in the hydraulic version, through a system filled with liquid. In both types of brakes, the force ultimately reaches the pads, which press against a special disc mounted on the hub.
So, a disc brake consists of a rotor (disc) and a caliper (brake machine). Rotors can have a diameter from 140 to 220 mm. The higher this indicator, the larger the lever arm and the more effective the brake. The caliper is mounted on the frame or bushing. There are pads installed inside it, which are driven by special pistons. Bicycle disc brake pads are made from organic materials or metal filings. The first option allows for smooth braking and quickly breaks in, while the second takes a long time to break in and wears out longer.
Mechanical
Mechanical disc brakes, judging by reviews, have the following advantages:
- They provide much more powerful braking than rim ones.
- Allows you to control the braking force.
- Work in any weather. Dust, dirt and moisture have virtually no effect on braking quality.
- Doesn't wear out the rim.
- Does not interfere with the use of wide tires.
- Work effectively on curved rims.
- They serve for a long time.
- They do not require special maintenance.
- The rotor aligns much more easily than with hydraulic brakes.
- Cables do not require special maintenance, unlike hydraulic lines.
Of course, reviews also note disadvantages:
- Cannot be repaired in the field without special tools.
- Due to the variety of models and modifications, finding spare parts is a little difficult.
- When transporting a disassembled bicycle, there is a high probability of the rotor bending due to any mechanical impact.
- Sometimes they interfere with attaching the bike rack.
- Have heavy weight relative to rim brakes.
- They are more expensive than rim models.
Hydraulic
Hydraulic disc brakes have the same advantages as mechanical ones, plus a few of their own:
- The most powerful braking force of any type.
- Excellent braking force control.
- Work in any weather conditions.
- Easy movement of the brake lever.
Disadvantages of hydraulic brakes:
- Repairing a hydraulic line is quite problematic.
- If the rotor is bent, it is difficult to align it.
- The highest price relative to other types.
In addition, hydraulic ones have the same disadvantages as mechanical ones.
Brake selection
As a rule, bicycles are sold already with brakes. Therefore, the average buyer does not have to rack his brains over their choice. Professionals love to assemble a bike from the parts they like best. In the first case, there are several points to consider. Firstly, the manufacturer of the bicycle is the company that made its frame and wheels. The remaining parts, including brakes, are purchased from other companies. Many companies that produce bicycles put not very good components on them in order to reduce the cost of the finished bicycle. Please take this into account when purchasing. Secondly, the type of brakes depends on. For example, inexpensive road bikes usually have drum brakes. They may come with rim-type front bicycle brakes. Cheap mountain bikes are equipped with V-brake brakes, while expensive ones, as a rule, have disc brakes. Third, bicycle parts companies can produce products in a wide price range. For example, if you ask a store clerk to show you Shimano bicycle brakes, he may bring out a whole box of products, varying in design and price.
The ability to brake is the key to active and safe driving. The ability to quickly stop a bicycle is necessary not only for competitive cyclists, but also for ordinary users - changes in the situation on the road can happen so suddenly that you have to maneuver on a subconscious level.
Regardless of what kind of brake system is installed on a bicycle, the key to successful braking is its good condition. Every time, before going on the road, it is necessary to check the condition of the brake cables or hydraulic system, and monitor the condition of the pads.
Modern bicycles are capable of achieving car-level speeds in city traffic. The braking system can also effectively slow down the bike.
Today, bicycles mainly use three types of braking systems:
- System with V-shaped brakes.
- Disc brakes.
- Hydraulic brakes.
Unfortunately, unlike a car, a bicycle does not have electronic assistants for effective reduction speed and stop. Here you have to rely only on your own strength. Take the time to practice the most frequently occurring situations on a suitable platform.
Before we begin to consider common situations, let's understand the physics of the process. A cyclist experiences two forces during braking. One of the forces is gravity, which pulls the cyclist toward the ground. The second force of inertia, which pulls the cyclist forward. The main task for effective braking is to balance these two forces.
The simplest and most common situation is reducing speed on dry asphalt. As you know, a bicycle bike has two brake systems - front and rear.
The braking effect can be increased by about thirty percent if you learn to apply the brakes to the point of blocking the wheels. Locked wheels will only worsen braking performance. If the wheels are locked, braking will be achieved only by the friction of the tires on the asphalt, and the specially designed braking system will be inactive.
When decelerating on dry surfaces, the most effective deceleration, both in theory and in practice, will ensure proper application of the bike's front brake. If you spend a little time learning how the front brake works, cycling will be less dangerous.
A significant number of cyclists are wary of using the front brake for fear of flying forward over the handlebars. This can only happen to cyclists who are unfamiliar with the changes that occur when the bike brakes.
Flying over the handlebars does not occur due to sudden braking, but due to the force of inertia, which pulls the cyclist forward. To avoid such a situation, it is necessary to move your body weight onto the pedal assembly before starting braking and maintain this position during the entire braking process.
Naturally, when using the rear brake, the danger of flying over the handlebars disappears, but in practice it has been proven that the braking distance is twice as long when using only the rear brake than the front.
Hand strength is important when braking hard. You must have a secure grip on the steering wheel during sudden deceleration. You must use arm strength and correct technique landing to keep the center of gravity as far back as possible. This allows the braking distance to be reduced as much as possible. Such skills must be used constantly, regardless of which brake is applied.
How can a person who has just ridden a bicycle achieve such skills?
As in any other matter, the only and most reliable method is constant training.
At the very beginning of training, you need to deliberately control your actions. You need to get rid of your fear when using the front brake. During training, avoid using the rear brake if possible.
At the initial stage, you need to clamp the brake lever smoothly in order to learn how to dose the braking force. Under no circumstances should panicky sudden movements be allowed. Let the braking distance be longer than usual at the beginning until the skill of using the front brake is brought to automaticity.
For training, it is advisable to choose a level area of sufficient size.
To achieve maximum effect It is necessary to adjust the brake mechanism so that the wheel locks only when the brake handle is fully depressed.
Proper use of the front brake does not mean you can forget about the rear brake. The rear brake serves as an additional brake when braking on dry asphalt. It comes into effect when the front wheel is almost locked but continues to rotate.
At this point, it is necessary to add braking force from the rear brakes. Similar to a car, where the front brakes account for seventy-five percent of the braking force and only the remaining twenty percent for the rear brakes. The most important thing is to avoid wheel locking when braking. Locked wheels prevent the cyclist from maneuvering during braking and lead to unwanted falls.
A bicycle is not the best vehicle for riding in the rain and, naturally, no one will ride a bicycle in the rain. But if it rains along the way, you need to be prepared for such a turn of events.
In wet conditions, the grip of tires on asphalt becomes much less compared to dry weather. The most dangerous time is the first minutes of rain. The streams of water had not yet had time to wash away all the dust from the road, but only turned it into a slippery substance. This must be taken into account when choosing a speed limit and maneuvering. Also, wet brakes lose their effectiveness.
Only disc brakes remain quite effective in rain. Braking in the rain, like any other maneuver, must be planned in advance. Before braking, it is necessary to dry the pads with several short, gentle presses on the brake handles. This simple operation will help restore the brake pads to their original properties. At least, if it doesn’t return one hundred percent, then improve the braking properties as much as possible.
Due to the reduced traction of tires with the road, when using the front brake, you may not be able to calculate the braking force. As a result, the front wheel will lock and a fall cannot be avoided. Therefore, it is recommended to start braking on wet roads with the rear brake.
Even if the rear wheel locks and the bike starts to skid, it is possible. If it becomes obvious that the wheels are about to lock, you need to overcome yourself and release the brakes a little. Then gradually add braking force.
To more effectively reduce speed with the rear brake, the cyclist needs to move the center of gravity of his body from the front axle to the rear axle of the bicycle. This can be achieved by rising from the saddle and moving your body a little back, while keeping the pedals parallel to the road. Thus, creating additional load on rear wheel and increasing traction. You can increase the traction properties of tires with the road by lowering the tires a little.
It is also necessary to take into account that during rain, road markings and sewer manhole covers become slippery. If possible, you should avoid braking on them. If it is necessary to brake, then this must be done with extreme caution.
Taking all the circumstances into account, in rainy weather it is necessary to use two brakes - front and rear. Starting the process of reducing speed, the rear brake gradually adds force to the front brake system.
Separately, it is necessary to say about braking in a puddle. The puddle itself is fraught with many dangers for the cyclist. There may be pit stones and other things hidden under it. If a cyclist gets into a puddle, braking will occur, of course, due to increased resistance.
If the cyclist is not ready, then an unpleasant flight over the handlebars awaits him. To reduce the effect of a sudden change in speed, it is necessary to move the cyclist’s center of gravity as far back as possible and, if the design of the bicycle allows, downwards. Having extinguished the first effect of getting into a puddle, you can begin the braking process. Without changing the location of the center of gravity of the body, smoothly, in short, measured movements, squeeze the rear brake handle.
Braking on uneven surfaces
When using the brakes while going downhill, you need to feel the moment when you need to apply the brakes. The brake force when descending a mountain must be selected very correctly. When descending, you must remember that the front wheel carries a much greater load than the rear.
By using the front brake, you can control the bike while avoiding skidding. It must be taken into account that excessive force on the front brake will inevitably lead to the cyclist falling over the handlebars.
In order to avoid this unpleasant moment, it is necessary to shift the center of gravity to the rear wheel, while increasing its braking force. By shifting the center of gravity to the rear axle, the load on both axles of the bicycle is equalized. Thus allowing you to effectively use both brakes.
When driving on uneven roads full of bumps, it is better to refrain from using the front brake. As a result of hitting bumps, the bike bounces and the wheels alternately unload or even hang in the air.
If you use the front brake when the front wheel is unloaded or has lost traction with the ground, the wheel will immediately lock. Landing on a locked wheel will certainly result in a fall. Therefore, when driving on uneven surfaces, it is better to use the rear brake.
Braking in a corner
It is better not to use the brakes when cornering. The speed must be reduced before the maneuver begins. If you enter the turn quickly, you won’t be able to go through the turn faster; you will still have to slow down, and even more than if you entered the turn correctly. But if it already happens that the speed in a bend exceeds the permissible limit, then it is necessary to apply two brakes simultaneously. This will avoid demolition of both the front and rear axles.
When braking in a turn, it is necessary to take into account the fact that during the turn the bicycle wheels are in an unloaded state. The smaller the mass of the bicycle and the cyclist, the less braking force must be applied to reduce the speed in a turn.
Braking if one of the wheels is damaged
Anything can happen while traveling. A tire puncture is not such a rare situation when cycling. In cases where one of the wheels has become unusable, you need to apply the brakes of the second intact wheel to stop immediately.
Using the brake on a damaged wheel is strictly prohibited. Continuing to drive with a damaged wheel is quite dangerous. A tire that comes off the rim can instantly block a wheel, and it will be even better if it turns out to be the rear wheel. Otherwise, it could be a pretty nasty fall.
In situations where a cyclist finds himself on a slippery surface, the main task is to maintain balance. Therefore, it is better not to undertake any maneuvers at all. It is advisable to bypass such a section of the road or if it is not possible to overcome it at extremely low speed. If a cyclist finds himself on a slippery section of the road and it is necessary to apply braking, then this must be done using the rear brake. Using the front brake risks causing the front wheel to skid.
Braking with the rear brake is necessary with smooth, short presses on the brake handle. Simulating the operation of the anti-lock brake system that is installed on cars. The braking force must be precisely dosed to prevent the rear wheel from skidding.
If the rear wheel begins to skid, you must immediately release the braking force and allow the rear wheel to resume rotation. When rotation resumes, the rear wheel itself tends to return to its previous trajectory, while the front wheel, on the contrary, always tries to leave this trajectory.
Drop braking
Oddly enough, such a method also exists. Naturally, it should only be used in emergency situations. But you need to be prepared for them and, if possible, get out of such situations without consequences. If you stop the bike to prevent emergency situation If there is no other way, then it is best to use a controlled fall to the side.
When flying over the handlebars, there is a fairly high probability of injury to the head, spine, and neck. When jumping off a bicycle backwards, when the bicycle seems to jump forward from under the cyclist, there is a possibility of injuring the back and tailbone.
Falling backwards can even be fatal if the back of your head hits the asphalt. So falling sideways to stop the bike is the safest method. In order to carry out such a maneuver, you need to block the rear wheel and tilt the bike to the side in which you plan to fall.
The most dangerous are falls over the steering wheel, which can damage the skull, spine and neck. It’s a little better to fall backwards, when the bike seems to “jump” forward from under the rider. Then you can hurt your back, damage your tailbone, or simply lose your life from hitting the back of your head on the ground.
Controlled side falls are the safest. It is most convenient to do this on slippery or loose soil, but if the place to fall is replete with roots and stones, and you need to fall, then it is best to do it as follows. It is necessary to move back as much as possible, squeeze the rear brake as much as possible and push off the bike with your hands and feet at the safest moment.
Naturally, it is best to practice these actions in advance, without waiting for critical situations. Best suited for training winter season, during which the ability to ride on ice itself requires the cyclist to be able to maintain balance on the bicycle.
To conduct training, you need to select a small area with snowdrifts around it. On slippery surfaces you can practice falling sideways, and soft snowdrifts can soften impacts.
Brief summary
If for a bicycle owner a two-wheeled friend is only vehicle to get from point A to point B, and at a snail’s speed, then the problem of effective braking is absent as a class.
In all other cases, it is necessary to constantly develop braking skills, bringing them to automaticity. It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the brake mechanisms.
Article topic: What is a bicycle brake? Which type of brakes is more effective? What type of brakes is the most practical? And, of course, let's talk about the best brakes for tourists!
Who is the article for: For beginner cyclists and for those who collect new bike, or decided to upgrade yours. Also, the article will be relevant for people who often travel on their bike, or want to make their bike as comfortable and easy to maintain as possible.
Articles on the topic: . .
Conclusion: The choice of brakes depends on your driving style and the financial capabilities of the owner. For correct selection brakes is worth reading the entire article.
Although the brake is an attribute of underpants, our article will be devoted to the topic of bicycle brakes! Paradoxically, but in order to dial good speed– you need to have good brakes, and nothing else. For some, the phrase “good brakes” means “the lightest brakes,” and for others, “the most powerful brakes,” etc. That’s why we recommend reading about each type of brake to determine which is the best solution for you. As always, our words will be based on many years of experience and practice. Happy reading! Or reading..? In short, let's go!
From this article you will learn:
1. Claw brakes.
2. Drum brakes.
3. Cantilevers.
4. Roller brakes.
6. Hydraulic rim brakes.
7. Hydraulic disc brakes.
8. Brake levers.
9. Video: types of bicycle brakes.
Clamp brakes
Claw brakes are perhaps the oldest type of brake. Despite this, the old man has his invariably eternal plus - it is as light as possible! But, like all old things, it has significant drawbacks, which became an obstacle to installation on modern bicycles. After all, such brakes cannot provide high clamping force of the pads, which means that in order to achieve wheel locking you need to press on the brake lever, literally, with both hands :)
Who assigned this to themselves, describe it in the comments, it will be interesting to read and laugh together! And to those who tried to do this, we express our deepest sympathy... But it wasn't just weak braking power that relegated caliper brakes to the background. Such brakes are mounted on with just one bolt; this reduces the rigidity of the structure and can also contribute to the distortion of the mechanism itself during braking. Yes, and also, this type of brakes is not compatible with suspension fork. On at the moment The best analogues of such brakes are V-brake. They have advantages and do not have such disadvantages. But read about this a little below.
Drum brakes
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We think you've seen drum brakes at some point. The operating mechanism is primitive and simple. There are wheels and two semicircular blocks. Braking is carried out by releasing the pads. There are two-cam and single-cam brakes. Just the last type can be found on a bicycle.
We are sure that the majority of those reading this article are hearing about such brakes for the first time, and the other half do not even realize that it was drum brakes that were installed on the first Marin mountain bikes of the 70s of the last century.
Cantilevers
The design of such brakes was invented to increase the clearance between the tire and the brake mechanism. This is done so that the wheel collects less dirt on the frame and makes rolling more pleasant and comfortable. Yes, this goal was achieved, but with a serious drawback. The cantilevers have two curved short arms, on one side of which a block is screwed on, and on the other side a cable is pulled. So, the angle between adjacent ends of the levers on the cable side is 120 degrees. We will not get into the theory of engineering mechanics (although we don’t care 🙂), we will write everything clearly and in human language. The force generated by cantilever brakes is limited. No matter how much strength you have in your hands, you will not squeeze them as tightly as possible. Either the cable or the brakes themselves will burst. Oh, and adjusting the brakes requires the attention of aliens. Why? Yes, because it is simply impossible to install the pads without a third hand! Of course, our grandfathers set, rode, and set world records, but with the development of current technology, it is better to spend effort on training yourself, rather than on growing a third arm. And then V-brake bypassed the old type of brakes. But, we will draw out the intrigue a little more and talk about V-breaks a little lower.
Roller brakes
Anyone who has seen a dynamo hub can imagine the appearance of roller brakes. This is, let's say, a drum type of brake located in the left half of the hub. The design of such brakes is similar to the design of modern motorcycle brakes. The advantages of such brakes are very important. Firstly, it is efficiency, and secondly, it is ease of maintenance. After all, the braking device of such brakes is hidden from environmental influences. What’s also good is that the rim is not worn out by the pads. What's bad? The bad thing is that such brakes are only suitable for city bicycles, where the load is light, and it is extremely difficult to repair such brakes while hiking. For example, girls simply adore such brakes - all you have to do is ask your cycling friend to clean the hub once every two years, and that’s all :)
V-brake
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And so we come to the discussion of this type of brakes. V-breaks are unique brakes. For starters, why V-break? V – vector, vector type brakes. Although since 2000 there have been vivid debates that this type of brakes is inferior to disc brakes. Let's look at the sales ranking and see that both V-brake and disc brakes are sold almost equally on the market. This means that there is a significant number of advantages of this simple type, if they can still compete with disc brakes, which at first glance are much better. Advantages of V-breaks: simplicity, efficiency, light weight, reliability, ease of setup. Adjustment includes tension bolt and pads.
Braking efficiency directly depends on the stiffness of the lever. That’s why many people don’t like V-breaks, although they themselves bought the cheapest ones on the market, for about 2 dollars, and are worried why they don’t slow down? Our advice is that it is better to buy used top-end V-brake brakes, which have significant rigidity and manufacturing precision than today's Chinese manufacturers. Good vector brakes, when set up correctly, will help you fly through the saddle with little effort. Don't believe me? There is only one way - install them for yourself.
Hydraulic rim brakes
Magura is the main manufacturer of such brakes. You know that too much is not very good. It’s the same as smoking a cigarette and smoking a filter with the phrase “It’s still a cigarette!” But it's not all bad. These brakes lock easily, but are very difficult to adjust and adjust. The only reasonable use for such brakes is a trial, in which the strength of the brakes, and, of course, steel balls, is really important.
Disc brakes
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The design of the disc brake is also simple, but more unreliable and expensive to maintain. If you need to install correct pads on V-breaks, they will both slow down and not wear out the disc. In the case of disc brakes, it is much simpler; the harder the brake pads, the better; the steel disc does not wear out quickly, and this is good. Some owners of Auchan cars produced in 2007-2010 were lucky enough to ride on brake discs (not in the literal sense, of course 🙂) made of titanium alloys. The diameter of the brake discs varies from 140 mm to 200 mm. As a rule, a larger disc is installed on the front, and a smaller one on the back. Disc brakes are much more convenient than vector brakes when, under bad road conditions, the discs slow down, and vibration breaks are no longer very good. But to install disc brakes, a special bushing is required, and vibration brakes require brake grooves on the rims. It's worth reading about the rims. Also, when braking with disc brakes, there is a large load on the spokes, which also does not play into the hands of the cyclist.
Everyone has seen cable disc brakes at some point. In such brakes, the lever pulls the cable, as a result of which the brake pads are pressed against the disc. We will not specify where everything is moving and with what force, fortunately, our readers are not stupid.
Hydraulics are a relatively new and highly efficient type of disc brake. Braking efficiency is excellent. Enough to grab the brake lever with the edge of your little finger - and you will have time to maintain stability on the bend. Being unaccustomed to it, you will have to fly over the steering wheel a couple of times in order to learn how to subtly feel the brake clamp limit. But for everyone this period and the amount of fall ranges from zero to infinity. So, we can only wish you good luck! Compared to cable brakes, hydraulics are a fairy tale. There is no need to adjust the cable tension for two hours, re-tension the cable after 100 km, tighten the brake pads, or clean them from dust. But you have to pay for everything; in addition to the high cost, hydraulics are also difficult to maintain. In fact, servicing a regular Shimano or Tektro Auriga Comp is easier than ever and only requires caution. But, in hiking conditions Replacing a hydraulic line is very problematic. It's easier to slow down with one brake. But, this is dangerous, and even under the load from the trunk, it is harmful for your horse. This is why disc brakes are easier and better for touring bikes. And even better for tourists are V-breaks that have no reason to break. I took a spare cable and went around the world! Hydraulics also require good wheel clamping in the drop-outs. After all, most disc hubs have a conventional eccentric mount, which does not provide reliable wheel clamping. There were cases when, during sharp braking and at the same time tilting the wheel, the bushing was torn out of the mount. And this risks breaking the rear caliper and, of course, the bones of the arms or legs.
Who has heard of hybrid brakes? About hybrid disc brakes? If you have heard about this before, write in the comments, we are interested in how many people know about them. Such brakes are both hydraulics and mechanics in one device. First, the cable transmits force from the handle on the steering wheel to the lever on the brake machine. And this lever presses on the hydraulic cylinder, which compresses the pads. Somehow we didn’t manage to find such brakes, but my dreams are to buy an old bike with such brakes and feel what it is and is it effective? We can tentatively conclude that such brakes are not effective, because if there was even a slight improvement in braking, then marketers would have been trying to “sell” it a long time ago. Instead, we don't see these types of brakes on the shelves of bike shops. If anyone has or has photos like this, post them, we’ll evaluate them and discuss them!
Brake levers
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- this is a kind of lever that pulls the cable, or presses the oil in the cylinder. The brake levers are designed differently for hydraulic and cable brakes. Outwardly, they can be easily distinguished from one another. Fast braking and high force are provided by the servo mechanism. This is a system that automatically monitors the adjustment of cable tension, for example. If we hear the word automation, this does not mean that there is a chip there. It's just a well-calibrated engineering design. The system simultaneously increases the pressing force and informs the biker about the compression force. No one thought that with one finger it is possible to stop an object whose inertial force is over 100 kg! Try stopping a cyclist without a servo mechanism. It will look something like this: your friend is driving towards you. You go out and stop in the path of his movement. The cyclist continues to drive straight towards you. You look into his eyes, he into yours, a drop of sweat runs down your cheek. Tension hung in the air. And so. Your movement right hand. You put your hand in front of you with your fingers unclenched. Your friend barely manages to pass you, and at that moment you grab his jacket with your fingers. Will he stop? Most likely not. He will move on, and you will painfully pull your hand. We hope you understand the importance of the servomechanism, which provides greater braking force.
And finally. There is one more thing, one might say, a small addition to the brake levers. This is a brake force modulator. It is an ABS function that is installed on the car. Such a system prevents the wheel from locking, which means the probability of skidding or going over the steering wheel is close to 0. In practice, we know craftsmen who managed to break this modulator in a split second and fly over the steering wheel in 1 millisecond. The principle of the system is simple - prevent the pads from locking, but at the same time compress the pads as much as possible. Only an experienced person can feel the delicate moment between wheel locking and maximum effective braking. This system copes with this with a bang! The result of using such a system is that you can safely press the brake lever all the way and not be afraid of flying out. But imperfect brake modulators may simply prevent you from braking effectively in an emergency. Be careful when choosing!
Finally, I would like to say that the best option for a person and his bike there will be good V-brake or high-quality disc brakes. On a hike, these brakes will never let you down. The only thing worth taking with you on a hike is a few spare cables, and that’s it.
Thank you for reading to the end of this difficult article! We hope, friend of Alexander and Evgenia, you will appreciate the article and perhaps even subscribe to the newsletter to always be aware of new articles! See you again!
A bicycle, like any other type of transport, must be equipped with brakes that can be guaranteed to stop it, but will not be excessively large in size and weight. City, folding, children's, that is, predominantly single-speed bicycles are equipped with a rear hub brake. Rim brakes are installed on the wheels of road, touring, hybrid, mountain bikes or on the front wheel of city, folding, and children's bicycles. Disc brakes should be installed on a bicycle if you plan to ride it mainly on mud and snow.
There is a large selection of bicycle brakes, which can be divided into three types according to the type of working, braking surface. In addition, they differ in design.
- Bushing: drum, roller.
- Rims: pincer, cantilever, V-breaks, U-breaks.
- Disc: mechanical, hydraulic.
A disc brake for a bicycle can be varied in design, as it can be used different ways transmission of motion to the brake mechanism. Namely: using a cable in mechanical structures or liquid in hydraulic systems.
Disc brake device
- The handle is a control mechanism on the steering wheel that activates the actuator.
- The rotor is a brake disc.
- Adapter – mounting bracket for attaching the caliper to the bicycle frame.
- Caliper is a caliper that is an actuator. It does a useful job, namely, braking the wheel. It is called a caliper by analogy with English name caliper - caliper, caliper.
- Pads are plates that stop the rotor due to the abrasiveness of their surface.
- The brake line is a link that transmits mechanical action from the handle to the brake actuator.
Design Features
Disc brake rotor sizes can be: 140, 160, 180, 185, 200, 220 mm. The larger the rotor diameter, the more effective the brake. But not every bike needs the largest diameter disc.
On mountain bike, intended for trips through the forest, descents from hills (trail), it is enough to install rotors of 160, 180 mm. On a mountain bike that will be used for riding down overgrown slopes (freeride), you need to install 180, 185 mm discs. And for mountain descents (downhill), you need to equip the bike with 200, 220 mm discs. If you want to install a rotor of the largest size, then before doing this you need to change the old wheel to another with the strongest possible spokes.
A hydraulic brake lever is a more complex mechanism than a mechanical brake lever. The hydraulic brake kit consists of a handle in the body of which there is a control piston, a hydraulic line with solid walls and a caliper. The bicycle hydraulic system can be closed or equipped with an expansion tank on the handle for adding oil.
Mechanical disc brakes can be equipped with a handle from other types of brakes: vibration brakes, cantilever brakes, and pliers.
Bicycle calipers use two types of brake pads, depending on the type of abrasive material.
- Metallized;
- Organic.
Metallized pads have a contact surface consisting of an alloy of carbon and metal filings. The thermally conductive material of these plates conducts heat away from the contact point, heating the caliper, which is especially detrimental to the performance of hydraulic brake systems. The abrasive material of metallized pads is hard and, as a result, takes a very long time to wear off; it rubs in well even on wet rotors.
U organic records The abrasive surface consists of a mixture of rubber and organic cellulose-based materials. The contact material of organic pads does not conduct heat, so in disc brakes for a bicycle with such pads, only the rotor heats up. The soft material of organic pads, especially when overheated, wears out quickly. But on the other hand, the soft abrasive material does not creak when rubbing against the rotor and breaks in very quickly.
The hydraulic caliper of bicycles is a piston mechanism, and has the same design as that of car or motorcycle calipers, only smaller in size, because it is designed for lower braking forces. Structurally, it consists of a cast body, on one base of which a fixed brake block is fixed, and on the other side a movable piston, or several pistons, with a movable block are inserted. The rotor is seized when the pad is moved by a piston, or pistons, under the pressure of the brake fluid.
Mechanical disc brakes are assembled with calipers, which have a different design than hydraulic calipers. Essentially, a mechanical caliper is a cam mechanism. It has a lever on the outside, unlike a hydraulic caliper; a cable is attached to this lever. In this mechanism, movement from the lever to the piston is transmitted through a multi-thread screw, wedge or cam. It is obvious that the movement of the lever and the blocks occurs in mutually perpendicular planes.
Mounting the brakes
The brake lever body is clamped to the steering wheel using a clamp clamp.
The rotor is fixed to the base of the wheel and rotates with the wheel. On a bicycle, the base of the wheel is the hub. To secure the rotor, you need a bicycle hub with threaded fasteners for it on one of the flanges. In addition, it is necessary to install bushings with flanges of increased diameter to reduce the length of the spokes in order to increase their strength.
Brake lines should not stick out on the sides of the bicycle frame, otherwise they can be caught by a branch, fence or your own leg, and if not broken, then seriously damage the outer sheath - the cable jacket. It's best to secure all the cables sheathed to the bike's frame and fork using electrical ties.
The front brake caliper is mounted on a fork, which has fastenings at the bottom of the legs (feathers) in the form of two posts with internal threads.
The rear caliper is mounted underneath the rear triangle stays. You will need to use an adapter to attach the rear caliper.
Bicycle calipers need to be finally secured only after they are centered relative to the rotor. Therefore, you need to tighten the caliper mounting screws in several approaches, and with the brake lever depressed, turning the wheel a full turn.
Advantages of disc brakes over rim brakes
Have excellent modulation. I mean: on a bike with disc brakes you can more accurately control the braking force than on a bike with vibration brakes, cantilever brakes, etc. Even after installing large pads on the rim levers, you cannot get the same response sensitivity as from small pads in the caliper. By the way, braking sensitivity is higher in calipers with a large number pistons. In addition, the use of organic, rather than metallized, brake pads in calipers increases modulation.
Less polluted. The rotor gets significantly less dust, dirt, water or snow than the wheel rim. Of course, any abrasive or liquid lubricant on the contact surfaces will interfere with the operation of the brakes. This is especially noticeable when riding a bicycle with rim brakes on a wet road: the modulation deteriorates significantly, since in order for the pads to start locking the wheel, they first need to wipe the brake track on the rim from water and dirt.
Eights on wheels do not affect the operation of disc brakes. Everyone understands that with rim brakes the working surface is the wheel rim, and the quality of braking depends on the evenness of its walls. Ideally, to achieve maximum modulation, the braking surface should be completely flat. If the wheel rim is bent, then you have to move the pads further apart. This reduces not only sensitivity, but also braking efficiency. On bicycles with particularly large figure-eight wheels, the rim brake handles need to be pressed all the way to the grips (handlebar handles) in order to somehow brake.
Do not wash the wheel rim. Due to the fact that disc brakes, in addition to the pads, have a separate wear part - the rotor - after a very long time only this disc will need to be replaced. On a bicycle with rim brakes, over time, after prolonged scratching by the pads, the aluminum rims have to be replaced when their walls break due to thinning.
Have a long service life. Metallized pads last especially long before they need to be replaced, and they wear out almost simultaneously along with the rotors. Rubber-cellulose rim brake pads are often coated with water and abrasives in the form of dust and sand, and therefore wear out faster than cleaner disc brake pads made of the same material. It should be noted that brakes whose pads wear out quickly need to be adjusted frequently, bringing the pads closer to each other.
Advantages of hydraulic brakes over mechanical ones
Have better modulation. As you know, mechanical brakes use a cable to transmit movement from the handle to the actuator. The cable, especially if not lubricated, rubs when moving along the jacket. The fluid inside hydraulic brake lines moves without noticeable resistance, which is why hydraulic disc brakes allow you to brake with just one finger on the handle.
Brake pads compress with greater force. Brake fluid in hydraulic lines does not actually compress unless it boils. Whereas a cable, even a thick one, will probably stretch if you press on the handle with great force.
Pads release faster. Hydraulics have fewer rubbing mechanical parts inside the caliper. In hydraulic brakes, especially those with oil in the hydraulic lines, the pistons in the calipers are well lubricated by brake fluid.
Disadvantages of disc brakes
Main disadvantage. When disc brakes operate, braking force is transmitted to the road surface first through the spokes, and then through the rim and tire. In short, when braking, a bending force is applied to the spokes. To prevent the knitting needles from breaking, you need to increase their thickness or reduce their length. Trying to reduce the length of the spokes as much as possible, bicycle manufacturers install hubs with flanges of the largest diameter on wheels with disc brakes.
Significant disadvantage. The entire set of disc brakes has more weight than rim brakes. The weight gain is also provided by the large diameter bushings required for mounting such brakes.
Minor disadvantage. It is difficult to find a replacement for a failed part, such as pads or a brake line. Even from the same manufacturer, but on different caliper models, brake pads of different sizes and mounting methods are used. Different hydraulic brake manufacturers use different types of fluid in their brake lines. So, for example: at the Hayes, Avid, Formula factories it is customary to pour antifreeze into the brake lines, while others best manufacturers Shimano, Tektro, Magura bicycle parts use low-viscosity oil instead of antifreeze. They have a reason for this, since antifreeze is made from castor oil and a solvent, so it burns the skin of your hands and dissolves or discolors paintwork.
Minor problem. The rear disc brake makes it difficult to secure the rack to the bike. For many cyclists who use a bicycle as daily transport, it is very important to be able to remove the weight from the handlebars or from the shoulders in the form of a backpack, and attach it to the rack. Most bicycle models with disc brakes do not have additional mounting holes on the frame, and the installed caliper makes it difficult to secure the rack supports evenly. You can buy a cantilever rack that attaches to your seatpost, but it costs twice as much as racks with legs. There are also console racks with additional supports, and although these supports are attached at a significant angle to the frame, they make it possible to transport fairly heavy loads on a bicycle.
To summarize, it must be said that you should only buy a real mountain bike, with large rotors and a hydraulic braking system, if you really plan to use it for its intended purpose, that is, on mountain roads. Hydraulic brakes cost a lot of money, so at the same price, a vehicle equipped with such brakes will have worse other parts than a bicycle with rim or disc mechanical brakes.