The main indicator of fishing, namely its success, probably depends on how you hook the fish. After all, who will listen to how well your fish bit if you don’t come with anything? And this will irritate the fisherman himself, and fishing, as you know, requires discipline and patience. However, correct hooking does not guarantee you the presence of a trophy; competent actions of the fisherman are also simply necessary, otherwise the fish will take the tackle away, confuse it and tear it. Although, a priori, if the fisherman is smart and experienced, then he does not need to learn how to hook if he already knows how to fish. The logical consequence will be this: if you have not yet learned how to hook a fish, you have no opportunity to gain experience in landing fish, so you will not catch many fish. This proves the importance of proper hooking.
Depending on the gear you choose, hooking will also vary, or rather, there will be different signals and movements of the gear that indicate when to hook the fish, although some types of fishing do not require hooking at all.
1. Cutting at float fishing.
It is immediately necessary to make a reservation that, depending on the weight of the float, the signals it gives may differ, for example, a float weighing 1 gram will, for example, go half under the water with a bite, and a float weighing 10 grams will only go under the water with the same bite. will send rings through the water. Therefore, we do not take such features into account. The classic rules for hooking when float fishing are:
1.1. If you are not specifically fishing for carp, then you do not need to constantly be near the rod or hold it at all. But you shouldn’t take this in such a way that you completely walk away from the bait. Move, warm up, but watch the float.
1.2. At the first bite, carefully take the rod in your hands and wait for the signal.
1.3. Signals for hooking: the float “jumps” more frequently, the float goes completely under the water, the float “floats” at an angle in any direction in the water, the float changes its main position, that is, if it was in a vertical position, it began to “lie” on water, and vice versa.
1.4. The first movement of the hook should be sharp, then we simply do not weaken the thrust.
2. when bottom fishing. Donka, feeder or spring are placed on a spinning rod, which means that we just need to understand the hooking rules applicable in spinning fishing.
Some fishermen practice fishing by touch, the fact is that the spinning rod transmits bites well, you feel “knocks”, as if from inside the spinning rod, when you hold it, and you hook at the moment of the strongest “knock” in your opinion. The method is good, but difficult when you have 2 spinning rods and completely impossible to apply when you have 3 or more.
You need some kind of bite recognition, such as bells. We advise you to attach them to the line, because they will not work if the fish drags the tackle to the shore, you may not even notice when the line begins to sag a lot, the bells on the line will pull it down, and everything will become clear to you.
We hook fish at moments of particularly strong bites with a sharp movement of the spinning rod and subsequent selection of fishing line with a reel.
Happy fishing!
How to hook a fish, 8.1 out of 10 based on 14 ratings
fishinggold.ru
Let’s imagine this option: a bite, a powerful hook, fishing and... escape. Sounds familiar, doesn't it? But here’s another option: having already pulled out the fish, we are surprised that it didn’t come off, it got caught on the very edge, and we didn’t hook it... How justified is hooking when fishing with spinning baits of different types? Is it possible to safely pull out a fish without resorting to hooking at all? And if so, what baits exactly?
Let’s imagine this option: a bite, a powerful hook, fishing and... escape. Sounds familiar, doesn't it? But here’s another option: having already pulled out the fish, we are surprised that it didn’t come off, it got caught on the very edge, and we didn’t hook it...
How justified is hooking when fishing with spinning baits of different types? Is it possible to safely pull out a fish without resorting to hooking at all? And if so, what baits exactly? Let’s try to at least partially understand this, and fishing experience is the main assistant here.
Bites as they are
First, an important point, from which in further discussions we will dance like a stove: based on the type of bite, we can roughly guess the location of the predator relative to the bait during the attack. There are three main types: the kick, the smooth pull, and the hang.
So, blow. Why is it happening? This is explained by the location of the predator on the side of the bait being held. He begins an attack with the so-called “starting speed”, which is always higher than that of potential prey - this is how nature ordered it, that’s why he is a predator, not a prey. After a successful or unsuccessful attack, it doesn’t matter, the predator does not have the ability to stop instantly; it still moves some distance by inertia. Here's a blow for you.
Most often, the fish disappears after a bite of this type. But it all depends on the force of the impact - the stronger it is, the less likely it is to go off. The blow can also fall on the leash - when the predator attacks in advance, but this does not happen so often. This bite is largely the privilege of pike perch, then perch and pike.
The second type is a smooth pull. Most often occurs when fishing with jig baits. This is how pike perch can bite - at the moment when the bait falls to the bottom. In this case, the fanged predator presses it to the bottom, and we observe a smooth movement of the tip of the spinning rod towards the bait.
The third type is hanging. In terms of frequency, it ranks on the same level with this type of bite such as a blow. Hanging can occur when fishing with any type of bait, when, after a pause and before starting to reel in the bait, noticeable resistance to the reeling is felt (as happens when caught on a tuft of grass or other object). Hanging can also occur during wiring. Often observed when using a rotating spoon in the current. This is how pike usually bite, attacking the bait after it.
Jig
You can fish with a jig in any conditions - from calm water to fast current. Naturally, the bites will be different - from a blow to a hang, but you should always try to hook, and especially with a smooth pull and hang.
First - a blow. It may hit the jig head (i.e. miss), and here we ourselves attack in pursuit, trying to hook the predator, but, more often than not, we miss because we don’t know from what point relative to the bait he attacked - from the right or from the left . Less often, when striking, a predator attacks from behind, and if this is the case, then a strike with a vertical component will be more justified.
Smooth stretch. More often, pike perch act this way. A hook is like an inevitability, and it’s better to be sharper in order to break through the bony mouth. As a rule, the lower jaw is cut through.
Vis is a type of bite that is typical when a predator attacks the bait in pursuit (along the course of the retrieve). Of course, the predator could simply close its jaws, tasting this “something”. The hook is more than justified. The most correct would be a hook with a vertical component - as already mentioned, we can only guess about the location of the predator during the attack of the bait.
Spinner
When fishing with spinners, a smooth pull is practically never encountered due to the fact that, as a rule, there is no pause in the retrieve (with the exception of front-loaded spinners, but they are not used very often). Basically - punch and hang.
When positioned from behind, the predator always attacks in pursuit, and if so, then the bite will be classified as hanging (caught up, closed its mouth, pause, assessment of what is happening), for everything about everything - no more than a second, or even a fraction of it, followed by a short resistance. The percentage difference is 50 to 50. The hook should be made before the fish begins to resist - as soon as the hang is felt (although a hook is not excluded).
The strike is a predator from the side, by inertia it travels some more distance, and a self-hook occurs. In such a situation, there is no point in hooking yourself - the predator could get caught on the very edge of the mouth, and when hooking, the wound gap will increase - as well as the percentage of the probable escape.
Oscillating spoons
Unlike a spinner, a spinner is an active, not a passive bait. Here, to increase the number of bites in most cases, pauses in wiring are simply necessary. Bites - a blow, a series of small blows, a hang and a smooth pull, the latter, as usual, is quite rare.
A series of short strikes following one after another indicates that the lure is being pursued by a pike, which fails to grab the bait the first time. In such a situation, hooking should be done only after the pike has clearly “landed” on the hook. Based on the resistance force, the sweep must be of a certain amplitude. For example, if the resistance is weak, the hook should be shorter and not very sharp. If the pike begins active resistance under water, which is felt as frequent twitching, then in 90% of cases it clings to the very edge of its mouth - and the probability of escape will be in the same percentage. Then, of course, cutting will be unnecessary. It is better to carefully force the landing. Ideally, hooking when fishing with “oscillators” is unnecessary.
Wobblers
Based on the location of the predator relative to the wobbler, we can say this: it can be everywhere - unlike the situation with a popper, because Wherever the predator is, the attack will be from below.
Because of more tees on its body (compared to other baits), the percentage of removal without hooking is very small. But in bites like “hanging” and “smooth pull” it’s better to play it safe and hook just once.
K. Luzhenkov “Swinging - “control shot” (“ Sport fishing» No. 5 from 2005)
club-rybaka.com
Sweeping
Sweeping- one of the most responsible and difficult actions in fishing, on which the size of the catch depends. Beginner fishermen usually start catching those fish that boldly grab a hook with bait, causing the float to confidently show a bite - simply disappearing under the water. This is how perch and some other fish bite.
When fishing with a float, the bite and hooking time depend on several reasons. What matters here is the type of fish you are catching, whether it is hungry, the type of bait, gear, etc. But you must immediately learn the basic rule: hooking will have an effect when it is done on time and with an effort sufficient to pierce the fish’s lip with a hook. In some cases, the timing of the start of cutting plays a special role. For example:
In reservoirs with a current, the fish immediately swallows the small bait, but if for some reason it does not like it, it immediately spits it back out. Therefore, you need to hook immediately as soon as the float moves;
When we fish from the bottom with a large bait, on the contrary, we need to give the fish time so that it can swallow it well. Sometimes the bream takes almost a minute to try on the nozzle and at the same time continuous oscillations of the float occur - so you have to wait.
The nature of the strike
Nature of undercutting when fishing with a float, it depends on the ratio of the length of the fishing rod and the length of the fishing line:
If the length of the fishing line is slightly longer than the length of the rod, you need to hook with a short movement of the rod, using your hand and partially your elbow. In this case, there is no need to swing the rod widely, since this will not give a sharp, but a slow hook, and when catching large fish it will easily lead to a line break;
If the line is long and the float is released far away, then we hook it with a wider swing of the fishing rod, in this case we also work with our shoulder in order to quickly remove the slack in the line that forms.
The effect of hooking depends both on the movement of the angler's hand and on some other factors. For example, if the hook tip is deeply hidden in the nozzle. In this case, you need to cut hard. You should also hook it hard if the heavy float is deeply immersed in the water, because additional effort is required to overcome water resistance.
Sweeping power
Sweeping power depends on how it is done:
When fishing lightly float rod for small fish on top of the water it is made with sharp and at the same time short movements;
When fishing with a light rod in the current, we smoothly hook with an accelerated, but not narrow movement;
When fishing with a large bait, for example, this is a whole earthworm - with a sharp, narrow wave of the hand;
If the line is not tensioned (with slack) or there is a heavy float with a load on it - with a sharp but wide wave of the hand.
When hooking correctly, the direction of movement of the float should be opposite to the swing of the rod. In this case, the force of the swing will be transferred to the hook faster, and the hook will grab the fish stronger.
Immediately after hooking, the rod should take a position convenient for subsequent landing of fish.
naribalke.com
We analyze the most common mistakes
The fish took the bait. What should I do? That's right, hook her right away. But many fishermen do not hook, but begin to make some unnecessary at the moment movements such as winding line on a reel. This is a serious mistake that often leads to fish disappearing.
Fishing with the help of any tackle involves hooking the object of fishing with a sting fishing hook. This requires cutting.
Another common mistake made by an inexperienced fisherman is over-hooking, but there can be several subtleties here. In each type of fish, the organs consist of tissues with different elasticity. For example, if the object of your hunt is a perch, then sharply pulling the tackle, you will simply tear its lip and, accordingly, you will not see the striped predator. In addition, there is a chance that the hook will simply fly out of the fish’s mouth.
If fishing takes place on a body of water where there are trees or bushes on the shore, then with a probability of 80-90 percent, your tackle will simply remain on the branches if it is strongly hooked. You need to hook in moderation, taking into account the size of the hook, the weight of the bait and the strength of the lips of the intended target.
A fairly common mistake made by inexperienced fishermen is premature or late hooking. In order to learn to do necessary movements, it is advisable to study the habits of fish: some swallow the bait immediately, others slowly. The most ideal moment is when the hook with bait is already in the fish’s mouth, and it begins to move with it. At this moment, the float either floats to the surface or, conversely, sinks deeper. Sometimes there is a sharp movement of the float in one direction.
If you start hooking the fish immediately with slight tremors, this will most likely not bring results, because in this way you will simply pull the food out from under the fish’s nose.
Many fishermen think this way: it’s better to wait until the fish has completely swallowed the bait, and then you can pull. But at the slightest suspicion (the line gets tight, or the hook moves), the fish will simply spit out the bait. This, by the way, also applies to those cases when the fish does not react actively to the bait - it simply savors the food and moves away.
The perfect hook. What is needed for this
In order for cutting to be carried out ideally, several conditions must be combined:
- The tip of the rod should be flexible. But, again, for each type of fish they choose their own bait.
- Different fishing tactics should be used. If you hunt small fish, then you need to hook it gently, and when catching predators, the hooking should be done more sharply.
rybalke.net
Errors when biting
If the angler does not hook immediately after the bite, but begins some manipulations such as winding the line with a reel, this is a serious mistake. A bite should always be followed by a hook. Fishing with any tackle includes an element of hooking - the tip of the hook must penetrate - accordingly, hooking is necessary.
The second mistake is cutting too hard. There are several nuances here - firstly, all fish are different, and not everyone’s lip can withstand a strong hook. For example, the soft lips of a perch tear easily. And the hook can simply be pulled out of the fish’s mouth without getting caught. And if there are trees behind the fisherman on the shore of the reservoir, with a strong but idle hook, there is a high probability of leaving the equipment in the branches. You need to strike moderately hard, taking into account the size of the hook, the size and strength of the lips of the intended fish.
The third mistake is cutting too early, or vice versa, cutting too late. Here you need to know the habits of the fish - not every fish grabs the bait confidently. The ideal option is when the fish has the bait in its mouth, and it swims away with it - at this time, either the float confidently sinks to the bottom, or it completely floats to the surface, or the float quickly moves to the side. When fishing with a feeder - a sharp bend or full straightening of the rod tip. Hooking at the first twitching of the float, when oscillating from side to side, is often ineffective - you simply pull the bait out from under the nose of the fish, which is wondering whether it likes your worm, or to look for another one. Late hooking is also often unsuccessful, which is determined by the fisherman’s thoughts “It’s better to wait until it swallows for sure” - if the fish feels something suspicious - the tension of the fishing line, the hook - it will spit out the bait, and there will simply be nothing to hook... The same thing with weak biting, when the fish takes it sluggishly and inactively - often, having savored the bait, it simply moves away.
Several factors are important to perform the perfect hook. Firstly, this is the structure of the fishing rod, or more precisely, the flexibility of the tip. If you are catching small fish, or fish with soft lips, for example roach, perch, you need to use a rod with a soft tip and hook the hook gently. If your goal is pike perch, asp, pike or bersh, we act exactly the opposite - a sharp hook is even recommended. With a soft hook, you simply will not break through the hard lips of the pike perch - this is precisely the reason for its numerous disappearances near the shore. The asp’s lips, although soft, are very dense, so a sharp hook will not tear them.
So, we have decided on the hooking technique, and we have spotted the fish - but this is only half the battle - the fish on the rod and the fish in the cage are two different things - the most important thing remains - to get it out correctly - because it is especially offensive to lose a trophy that was already on your rod .
The basic rules for proper fishing are simple: firstly, never loosen the line - it must be constantly tensioned while fishing. As soon as you give up the slack - if the fish is not hooked well - it will free itself from the hook. Or, if it is a carp or a barbel, there are often cases when, resisting, the fish winds a loose line around itself, and when it gets between the teeth of the dorsal fin, it is cut. These troubles are easy to avoid - always keep the line under tension while fishing.
An important factor is also the skillful use of the clutch. Especially if the line breaking threshold values are close to the weight of the fish being caught. By stubbornly and non-stop pulling the fish to the shore, you can tear the fishing line, the fish’s lips, or even a low-quality hook can become bent. All this is prevented by the friction, which absorbs strong jerks of the caught fish. Friction is a device that releases line on spinning reels under strong tension. The clutch activation threshold is adjusted mechanically by tightening or loosening it. The friction allows you to optimally combine the bend of the rod, the tension of the fishing line, and the shock absorption of fish jerks. Always adjust it based on the line tension from the rod tip, rather than trying to pull line off a stopped reel with your hand at the tip.
When landing fish, take into account the topography of the fishing area. Do not let the fish go into the grass and writhe, where it instinctively strives for shelter. This is clearly expressed in tench - after hooking, it rushes like a drill into the very thick of aquatic vegetation. Try to build a fishing route in such a way as to take her out of her comfort zone. It would be optimal to lift the fish to the surface of the water and let it take a breath of air - for example, bream then resists much less actively.
Have a landing net with you, even if there are no large fish in your plans - they can always hatch unexpectedly. When fishing a large fish to the shore at the top of the water, carefully place it over the landing net placed in the water and quickly remove it - the fish has practically no chance of slipping out of this trap. If it happens that a large fish bites, but there is no landing net nearby, carefully bring it to the edge of the water and grab it by the gills. Do not try to pull the fish ashore with a fishing line, especially if it is thin or the shore is not flat. Remember that on the shore the same weight will be greater than in the water - there is a risk of breaking the fishing line.
Happy fishing!
prorybu.ru
How to make a hook
You saw that the float was barely visible, as if dancing in place, moving slightly in one direction or the other. Having noted its displacements, it is necessary to catch the moment of a longer-term change in location. Often the float, swaying slightly from side to side, goes under the water for a second or two. The immersion can be very small, sometimes only a few millimeters. It is likely to rise out of the water by the same few millimeters or move to the side. It is in these often very short moments, sometimes no more than a couple of seconds, that the hook should be made.
5. Fishing in windy weather poses considerable problems for a novice fisherman, although it almost always promises a good catch. For many fish, wind is an additional incentive to bite. The most vigorous stirring of water and, naturally, accelerated concentration of it with oxygen have a positive effect on their well-being and, accordingly, appetite.
You need to know that some species of fish, such as crucian carp and bream, seek shelter in quiet, leeward areas during waves. In such weather, bream accumulate in pools, bays, backwaters protected from the wind, where foam and debris have been driven from the reservoir by waves. In these places, even with a strong wind, there is no disturbance that can seriously impede the bite, moving, for example, a hook with a nozzle along the bottom, which bream does not tolerate at all.
If it is not possible to find a section of the reservoir protected from the wind, you need to set up your fishing rod appropriately. Install a more weighted float, sitting deeper in the water, with only a thin antenna with a small windage on the surface. Use a sinker that can hold the float in place and ensure the attachment remains stationary, which is very important when fishing not only for bream, but also for carp and carp. Carp, as a rule, cannot tolerate even the slightest movement of the bait. This alarms him, and he moves away from the dubious place.
The main condition for successful fishing in windy weather is the increased attentiveness of the fisherman. Take a close look at the nature of the wind and the waves that appear. It is important to catch the joint rhythm of the movement of the waves and the float. When you can do this, any disturbance in these mutual movements will become easily noticeable. Any significant rhythm disturbance should activate the sweep. So, if the float stopped, slowed down or began to sink, this is a sign for an energetic hook. If he swims out and lies on his side, an extensive hook must be made, since the fishing line is slack and for hooking it is necessary to first remove its excess. When catching certain fish, active displacement of air masses can be your ally. A strong side wind or wind blowing from the back is mainly convenient for using them when fishing. How is this done?
It is necessary to install a float of the smallest size on the tackle, with less windage, and attach several small pellets as a sinker, the bottom of which is placed no closer than 70 mm from the hook. The float is launched in the wind in such a way that the hook with the nozzle practically drags along the bottom. Even very cautious fish grab this bait. If there are no bites, try fishing in half-water, allowing it to swim almost at the surface.
Only an assertive search and flexibility of the angler in the selection of fishing techniques can guarantee success, because the behavior of the fish and its bite sometimes change in completely unpredictable ways. But it is also necessary to remember that an experienced fisherman stubbornly seeks luck. There are no “completely biteless” days. Simply, on some days it is very difficult for the fish to select the necessary “menu” and find out where exactly it “wants to get it”.
Fish hooking
As I already wrote above about when it should be done, now I will say a few words about how this happens.
Technically, a more accurate and relevant hook is done at the moment when the line between the float and the tip of the rod is in a tense state, i.e. not weakened, but stretched into a more or less direct line. The movement of the spring in this case will almost immediately lead to the desired result. If the line is slack, cutting will occur only after this slack has been pulled out. Therefore, when fishing, you need to make sure that the vein between the edge of the rod and the float is close to a straight line. Every time you remove the hook from the water to replace the nozzle, check its location on the hook, etc. a control sweep is made. This is also done with a proportionate and gentle movement of the brush so as to prevent a significant breakthrough in the tissues of the fish’s mouth. The puncture should be such that the hook catches with the barb, penetrating deep only during the upcoming fishing, but does not further expand the immediately made gap in the tissue, otherwise it simply has the potential to end with the fish disappearing. Subscribe and receive the latest posts about fishing in your email. Sincerely, the author of the blog
Also read with this article:
blogdlarybaka.ru
Hooking is an art; an experienced fisherman will be able to determine by the bite who is biting: bream, perch, roach, ide or other fish. Accordingly, you need to hook depending on the type of bite.
The perch takes the bait sharply and decisively. The float instantly goes under water. It is at this moment that you should hook him.
The roach bites completely differently - the float easily bounces on the water and the main thing here is to have endurance. If you try to hook during this twitching, the fish will almost certainly have time to jump off the hook. But if you wait until the prey finally tastes the bait and grabs it, then fishing it out won’t be any problem. This can be determined by the fact that the float slowly floats to the side - which means that the roach has tightly swallowed the bait and you can hook it.
The ide bite is similar to the roach bite. Only he acts much more decisively. First, the float instantly goes into the water, then moves to the side. This is where instant hooking should follow, after which all that remains is to carefully fish the ide into a landing net or simply to the shore.
But the most interesting bite, without a doubt, comes from bream and silver bream. It is simply impossible to confuse his bite with someone else’s. At first, the float twitches subtly several times, as if some fry are trying the bait. Then it simply lies on its side, which is determined by the structure of the mouth and body of the bream itself. And it is precisely at that moment when the float lies on the surface of the water that a sharp but careful hook should be carried out. It should be especially careful if you are fishing for silver bream. Unlike bream, it has less fleshy lips, and a sharp hook will tear them, crippling the fish and leaving you without a trophy.
Of course, it is simply impossible to describe all types of bites; all that remains is to give general information. Predatory fish They always bite sharply and without fear, regardless of size. For example, a perch only ten centimeters long is capable of capturing and even swallowing bait from hooks three to four centimeters long, and the bite will be as usual - bold and even brazen.
Herbivorous fish take the bait slowly, carefully and fearfully. A slight movement of the fishing line, the shadow of a fishing rod, flashing across the water, or a loudly spoken word is enough for the treasured trophy - a roach weighing half a kilogram - to shy away from the bait and swim away into the depths.
You need to hook only at the moment when the fish is probably already firmly on the hook and will not be able to escape from the fisherman. Remember, the hook must be fast but smooth.
fishers.spb.ru
Anglers' mistakes when biting
- No hooking after a bite, and immediately there is a leisurely winding of the coil or other manipulations. This is a mistake. After the bite, hooking should be done in any case. Any application fishing tackle including a hooking element - the hook provides for hooking after a bite.
- The hook is too strong. The lip of not every fish will withstand a strong hook (you can easily tear the soft lips of, for example, a perch), and sometimes during a strong hook the hook will simply fly out of the fish’s mouth without catching. You need to hook in moderation and based on the strength of the fish’s lips, the size of the hook - the weaker these indicators are, the weaker the hook is needed.
- Cutting too early or too late. Not every fish takes the bait confidently. The ideal time for hooking is when the fish has taken the bait in its mouth and is trying to swim away with it, at this time there is a confident bite on the float or the tip of the rod.
Late hooking with the thought that the fish will swallow the bait better and the hooking will be successful also often does not bring the desired results. If the fish senses something negative (the taste of the bait, the tension of the line, or just a bad bite), it will spit out the bait and hooking will no longer be necessary, so you need to hook on time.
Perfect hook
Firstly, for a perfect hookup you will need the appropriate rod (namely its tip). If the fish you are hunting is small or its lips are not strong enough, then it is better to use soft tips of your fishing rod.
Perch, roach and a number of other fish have very soft lips, so you need to cut gently.
But for zander, bersh, pike, and asp, strong hooking is not scary, but on the contrary, it is recommended. If the rod whip is not hard enough, you will not be able to make a decent hook on the pike perch (its mouth is very hard and because of this, the pike perch often leaves either at the end of fishing or on the shore due to a weak hook at the beginning). And the asp and some other fish have very dense lips, although they are soft, so hooking is also not scary for them.
Secondly, do not make the mistakes discussed in the first subheading. You need to cut on time and with sufficient load.
Choosing a float fly rod and its equipment - an article about how to avoid making simple mistakes when choosing a light float rod.
Fishing with a float rod from A to Z - read the guide for the novice angler on how to catch fish 100% using a float.
7 simple tips how to make any fish bite - read in this informative review.
Basics of proper fishing
Here are a few basic rules that must be followed to prevent the fish from getting off the hook while fishing or breaking the fishing line:
- The line must be tensioned 100% of the time of fishing. You just have to give it some slack and if the fish is not hooked well enough, it will easily free itself from the hook. This will not happen if the line is constantly stretched.
- Use a clutch. You shouldn’t go too far with the tension of your fishing line; in the end, the fishing line can break and the fish’s lip can tear and the hooks can bend (if they are of poor quality) - the clutch comes to the aid of the angler when biting a large fish.
- Friction clutch is a device on spinning reels that releases the line in favor of the fish under strong tension. This will allow you to constantly keep the rod slightly bent, the line taut, and at the same time, with strong jerks of the fish, the clutch will be activated, which will not allow the tackle to break. Before fishing, make sure that the clutch releases the line precisely with a fairly strong (but non-critical) tension of the line from the tip of the rod, and not with your hand directly in front of the reel.
- Do not let the fish go into snags and other shelters. From the very beginning, try to take the fish out of its comfort zone. It’s best to go to the surface of the water, then it will be much less likely to take your equipment into the shelter, from where you won’t be able to get the fish and you’ll have to tear the line.
- Use a landing net. When bringing the fish to the shore along the surface, bring it into the exposed landing net. And if there is no landing net, carefully bring it to you and grab it by the gill covers, or by the gills, if this is more convenient in the case of catfish.
If you don’t have a feeling for the correct hook, then very soon it will definitely appear. Like any other skill, this skill comes with practice.
The moment of biting is absolutely determined if the tackle is selected correctly. How to hook a fish correctly? In some cases, this is done with sharp and short movements with the rod (fishing bleak, chub, ide, dace), in others - with a short, sharp swing of the tackle or an accelerated, narrow upward movement. The latter method is typical for hooking roach, dace, and gudgeon. The success of hooking depends on a number of factors, such as whether the hook point is hidden in the bait or whether it comes out, how attractive the bait is, what type of float is used, etc.
If the point of the hook is hidden in the nozzle, then the hook must be make stronger. If the point of the hook comes out, the hook should be softer. With a heavy float sitting deep in the water, hooking is performed more intensively. With a light float the opposite is true. When fishing with light and thin tackle, it is not recommended to use sharp and wide hooks - the leader may break. In some cases, for example, when catching bream from the bottom with a large bait, hooking is performed only after the fish has swallowed the bait well. This can continue for several minutes with the float continuously oscillating. On the contrary, when fishing for dace using maggots, hooking should be done immediately as soon as the float moves. This kind of hooking is also necessary when fishing for roach, submouth, and gudgeon. These fish immediately suck small bait into their mouths.
The recommendations that hooking should be done by moving the tackle in a circular motion to the right and left are not sufficiently substantiated. It’s still better to hook by lifting the rod from bottom to top. The need for immediate hooking is confirmed by observations of how the fish takes food in the aquarium. The fish swims up to the bloodworm, stretches out its lips, and sucks the food into its mouth. If the bloodworm is not to its taste, the fish immediately throws it back. The process of “playing” with bait takes about one second.
Any movement of the float, as a rule, serves as an indicator of a bite. It is very difficult to list all the circumstances that change the nature of cutting. The basic rule: a hook will only be successful if it is followed in a timely manner and with sufficient force. After hooking, based on the resistance force of the fish, you can predict its size and act in accordance with the forecast. At the first moment of hooking, sometimes it seems that you have been caught big fish. We must remember that the active resistance force of a fish caught on a hook is small and is unlikely to exceed its weight. Only in some fish, such as carp, the resistance exceeds the weight. Moreover, in winter, early spring and shortly after spawning, the resistance of the fish is weak and it increases in the summer and autumn, when the fish becomes stronger. To catch a big fish, it is not enough to have one physical strength and have strong tackle, you also need to maneuver the tackle correctly. For example, a fish is drawn to the water - you need to let go of the line a little; the fish has stopped - you need to immediately pull it to the shore. Excessively strong tackle relaxes the fisherman; he is already confident of success.
It happens that, hoping for the strength of the tackle, the fisherman boldly pulls the fish to the shore. But it ends with the catch being let off the hook. No matter how strong the tackle is, you cannot actively drag a large fish immediately after hooking. Only after she gets a little tired and calms down can she be slowly pulled towards you. In all cases, you should not use excessive physical strength and sudden movements. Catching large prey with thin gear is only possible with the correct actions of the fisherman. There is no need to allow the rod to stretch out in line with the fishing line. If you cannot achieve a normal position of the rod, you need to quickly follow the fish and when it gets tired, finally take possession of the prey. You can also take fish brought to the shore with your hands, but this method is not always suitable. Pulling out fish is greatly facilitated by a landing net, without which it is almost impossible to catch a large fish using thin tackle.
Based on materials from the fishing site
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Let’s imagine this option: a bite, a powerful hook, fishing and... escape. Sounds familiar, doesn't it? But here’s another option: having already pulled out the fish, we are surprised that it didn’t come off, it got caught on the very edge, and we didn’t hook it... How justified is hooking when fishing with spinning baits of different types? Is it possible to safely pull out a fish without resorting to hooking at all? And if so, what baits exactly? Let’s imagine this option: biting, powerful hooking, fishing and... getting off. Sounds familiar, doesn't it? But here’s another option: having already pulled out the fish, we are surprised that it didn’t come off, it got caught on the very edge, and we didn’t hook it...
How justified is hooking when fishing with spinning baits of different types? Is it possible to safely pull out a fish without resorting to hooking at all? And if so, what baits exactly? Let’s try to at least partially understand this, and fishing experience is the main assistant here.
Bites as they are
First, an important point, from which in further discussions we will dance like a stove: based on the type of bite, we can roughly guess the location of the predator relative to the bait during the attack. There are three main types: the kick, the smooth pull, and the hang.
So, blow. Why is it happening? This is explained by the location of the predator on the side of the bait being held. He begins an attack with the so-called “starting speed”, which is always higher than that of potential prey - this is how nature ordered it, that’s why he is a predator, not a prey. After a successful or unsuccessful attack, it doesn’t matter, the predator does not have the ability to stop instantly; it still moves some distance by inertia. Here's a blow for you.
Most often, the fish disappears after a bite of this type. But it all depends on the force of the impact - the stronger it is, the less likely it is to go off. The blow can also fall on the leash - when the predator attacks in advance, but this does not happen so often. This bite is largely the privilege of pike perch, then perch and pike.
The second type is a smooth pull. Most often occurs when fishing. This is how pike perch can bite - at the moment when the bait falls to the bottom. In this case, the fanged predator presses it to the bottom, and we observe a smooth movement of the tip of the spinning rod towards the bait.
The third type is hanging. In terms of frequency, it ranks on the same level with this type of bite such as a blow. Hanging can occur when fishing with any type of bait, when, after a pause and before starting to reel in the bait, noticeable resistance to the reeling is felt (as happens when caught on a tuft of grass or other object). Hanging can also occur during wiring. Often observed when using a rotating spoon in the current. This is how pike usually bite, attacking the bait after it.
Jig
You can fish with a jig in any conditions - from calm water to fast current. Naturally, the bites will be different - from a blow to a hang, but you should always try to hook, and especially with a smooth pull and hang.
First - a blow. It may hit the jig head (i.e. miss), and here we ourselves attack in pursuit, trying to hook the predator, but, more often than not, we miss because we don’t know from what point relative to the bait he attacked - from the right or from the left . Less often, when striking, a predator attacks from behind, and if this is the case, then a strike with a vertical component will be more justified.
Smooth stretch. More often, pike perch act this way. A hook is like an inevitability, and it’s better to be sharper in order to break through the bony mouth. As a rule, the lower jaw is cut through.
Vis is a type of bite that is typical when a predator attacks the bait in pursuit (along the course of the retrieve). Of course, the predator could simply close its jaws, tasting this “something”. The hook is more than justified. The most correct would be a hook with a vertical component - as already mentioned, we can only guess about the location of the predator during the attack of the bait.
Spinner
A smooth pull practically never occurs due to the fact that, as a rule, there is no pause in the retrieve (with the exception of front-loaded spinners, but they are not used very often). Basically - punch and hang.
When positioned from behind, the predator always attacks in pursuit, and if so, then the bite will be classified as hanging (caught up, closed its mouth, pause, assessment of what is happening), for everything about everything - no more than a second, or even a fraction of it, followed by a short resistance. The percentage difference is 50 to 50. The hook should be made before the fish begins to resist - as soon as the hang is felt (although a hook is not excluded).
The strike is a predator from the side, by inertia it travels some more distance, and a self-hook occurs. In such a situation, there is no point in hooking yourself - the predator could get caught on the very edge of the mouth, and when hooking, the wound gap will increase - as well as the percentage of the probable escape.
Oscillating spoons
Unlike a spinner, a spinner is an active, not a passive bait. Here, to increase the number of bites in most cases, pauses in wiring are simply necessary. Bites - a blow, a series of small blows, a hang and a smooth pull, the latter, as usual, is quite rare.
A series of short strikes following one after another indicates that the lure is being pursued by a pike, which fails to grab the bait the first time. In such a situation, hooking should be done only after the pike has clearly “landed” on the hook. Based on the resistance force, the sweep must be of a certain amplitude. For example, if the resistance is weak, the hook should be shorter and not very sharp. If the pike begins active resistance under water, which is felt as frequent twitching, then in 90% of cases it clings to the very edge of its mouth - and the probability of escape will be in the same percentage. Then, of course, cutting will be unnecessary. It is better to carefully force the landing. Ideally, hooking when fishing with “oscillators” is unnecessary.
Wobblers
Based on the location of the predator relative to the wobbler, we can say this: it can be everywhere - unlike the situation with, because Wherever the predator is, the attack will be from below.
Due to the larger number of tees on its body (compared to other baits), the percentage of escape without hooking is very small. But in bites like “hanging” and “smooth pull” it’s better to play it safe and hook just once.
K. Luzhenkov “Hooking - “control shot” (“Sports fishing” No. 5 of 2005)
For a beginner, biting on a feeder can be a very difficult task, since a novice fisherman will not always be able to distinguish a bite from a simple disturbance of the quivertip, as a result of a blow of wind or current. Vertical vibrations of the nod, its straightening or bending - this is what characterizes the bite on the feeder.
Accordingly, the first thing you should pay attention to is the trembling tip of the feeder and sudden fluctuations. If the movement of the tip is barely noticeable, then there is no bite at the moment. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the nature of the bite depends on the size and nature of the fish species.
It is surprising that small fish often bite with great intensity. I remember cases when, contrary to all expectations of a large catch, it was the little things that pecked on the floor of the palm so that the massive feeder simply fell from the stand. It is in choppy water that we can observe such cases.
At first glance, the entire technical side of such fishing may seem complicated, but it’s worth trying this technique several times and here it is, the desired catch. And neither the wind nor the current can prevent you from achieving your goal. And with experience, based on the nature of the bite, you can easily understand what type of fish is sitting on your hook.
Confident bite
Most often, after several sharp or calm movements of the soft tip of the feeder, you can hook. This is how a bite is characterized. Moreover, this is how bream and crucian carp bite. If the line begins to sag and the top of the feeder becomes vertical, then you have difficulties. You probably missed the moment of biting and hooking. The fish moved the feeder, swallowing the bait too deeply. In this case, you must use an extractor.
Carp bite
Nothing could look more spectacular. If the tip of the feeder unexpectedly, without preliminary vibrations, deviates almost 90° and stays in this position for several seconds, then don’t chalk, hook! You've got a carp on your hook! If you miss the moment of hooking, then this threatens to break the rod, as the tackle may fly off the stands. If such a situation does occur, it is recommended to immediately release the reel brake. Always keep an eye on your feeder.
There are almost imperceptible bites
Passive fish, small crucian carp or carp may exhibit this behavior. The tip of the feeder barely oscillates, and there may be no stretch at all. This caution is terribly inconvenient for the breadwinner. It is surprising that the quivertype is generally able to catch and demonstrate this type of bite.
With the experience gained, you will learn all the nuances, learn to hook in time and not pay attention to situations when the fish is simply “playing” with the feeder, slightly “punching” it.
Hooking when fishing on a feeder.
When fishing on a feeder, special attention should be paid to hooking. If you decide to use exclusively braided fishing line when fishing, then you should not make a sweeping hook, because these are not “oak” donks. Such an act can not only leave you without the desired catch, tearing the bait out of the fish’s mouth, but also deprive you of the leash as a whole.
To achieve a positive result, when hooking, it is enough to take the feeder from the stand, and quite quickly, but at the same time smooth movement move the top of the feeder about one and a half meters to the side.
At this stage, your main assistant will be the braid itself and its resistance to stretching. Using monofilament fishing line, for a good hook-up there is enough long distance, you will have to step back a couple of steps.
Do not forget that the ideal moment for hooking must be selected based on the bait used and the desired prey. So, if you plan to catch a cautious tench on a crawl, then you should hesitate a little to wait for the moment when the fish swallows the bait. Otherwise, you'll yank the crawl right out of the fish's mouth.
Bite on the feeder
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Another component of absolutely any fishing is the ability to hook correctly. But many novice fishermen sometimes ignore the need to do this, due to their inexperience, or because of a feeling of excitement, and therefore, immediately after the bite they begin to simply reel in the reel.
Basic rules for successful hooking
The first and most important rule is It is always necessary to hook a fish after a bite. Remember this. Since the fish itself may not catch on in all cases.
Second rule don't tug the rod too hard. A sharp swing with force will cause the hook with bait to simply slip out of the fish’s mouth, or it will return to the shore not with the fish itself, but only with part of its lip.
The third and final rule is do everything on time. This means you shouldn't jerk your rod every time the float jerks in the water. Give the fish time to swallow the bait.
The ideal moment for hooking is when the float not only goes under the water for a while, but also floats away in any direction. But it’s better not to overexpose it. Since, sensing something wrong, for example, a protruding hook, or strong resistance of the float, the fish can easily “spit out” the bait and swim away. Or he can simply remove the bait from the hook.
The method of performing a correct hook depends on certain conditions. So, for example:
If you catch small fish at shallow depths, using an ordinary float rod, the movement of the rod should be short and quite sharp.
If fishing takes place in the current, then the hook should be with a smooth acceleration of the short movement of the rod.
If the line lies on the surface of the water in a loose state, and the float is heavy, then the movement should be wide and sharp.
Don't worry if you do something wrong at first. Everything comes with experience. In order to achieve ideal results in this matter, it is necessary to use a suitable rod, namely its tip:
So, if you catch small fish, then its tip should be “snotty”. This will make the hooking soft and accurate for perch, roach, etc.
Well, if you are fishing for pike, pike perch, asp, then in this case the tip must be hard, otherwise the hook will not catch properly. And if the hook is poorly hooked, then the probability of fish disappearing near the shore will be high, and it will be very difficult to get the fish out of the water.
Proper landing of fish on shore
After the hook is made and the fish is on the hook, you need to pull it out of the water, and make sure that it does not come off. The following tips will help you not to be left without a catch:
- Don't let the fish loosen the line. Because in the absence of tension and if the fish is not firmly “sitting” on a hook - it can easily free itself. Therefore, try to maintain the tension, right up to the shore.
- Don't let the fish go into different hiding spots, otherwise it will simply swim behind the nearest snags, reeds, or other aquatic vegetation and you will easily tangle your gear. After which you will be left without them, and the fish itself.
- When catching large fish, in order to avoid breaking the rod or breaking the fishing line - use this convenient device any spinning reel like a clutch. The friction allows you to unwind the fishing line towards the fish, due to the strong tension it creates. The force with which the spool begins to move can be set by turning the regulator on the reel itself, and checked by simply pulling the line with force.
- Also, if the prey is large, do not ignore the possibility of using a hook or landing net. If you don’t have a landing net, you can make it yourself, you can read about this in -.