How to install a bearing on a speed bike. Rear Hub Types

In this video I will show you how to repair a bicycle yourself: namely, replacing bearings (Replacing an axle on a bicycle) on the rear wheel hub axle mountain bike, for industrial

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Bushing and axle. Bushings are an important and precise element in a bicycle. This is the third largest braking force (after air resistance and tire friction). Which, however, can become the first if you don’t take care of the bushing at all.
Fundamentally, there are two types of bushings: bulk and industrial bearings.
Bushings with bulk bearings are more common and cheaper. The principle of operation is simple, the picture shows how it works. “Cones” are attached to the axle, which press the bearings against the “Cups”. The cones are secured in place with a locking nut. There is a boot on the cone that prevents water and dirt from getting inside the bushing. But everything is great only in theory, in real life, the boot only holds dirt for some time. The better the boot, the longer it will last.
Such bushings sometimes need to be completely rebuilt, about once every season or two. You need to use thick lubricant, and it is better not to skimp on it; the cracks in the boot are clogged with lubricant.
One-piece is more reliable both in terms of fracture strength and reliability of fixation in dropouts. In addition, there are, and are actively used by representatives of extreme types of skiing, large-diameter axles, which are practically a hollow tube. For such axles it is necessary to use special forks, and for the rear wheel, it is necessary to initially manufacture a frame with a larger seat in the dropouts. Of course, they also require a bushing designed for such an axle. Installation of a semi-integrated steering wheel on industrial bearings. Replacing a soured carriage on a bicycle! This is a bummer! KT-305 how a hub with a foot brake works, maintenance, mechanism design. Modernization of Auchan-bike. Installation of promos - successful or not? Rear wheel of a bicycle. Bearing lubrication. Wheel setup. How to choose bicycle tires? 26 wheels on industrial bearings. A secret that not everyone knows. Hub with coaster brake! FROM RAGS TO RICHES AFTER 10 YEARS OF IDLE! | BICYCLE RESTORATION. Barbecue in 1 hour 30 minutes Homemade BBQ Smoker. Bicycle rear hub repair. How to replace an open carriage with cage bearings with a carriage with industrial bearings. Spoking a wheel, how to spoke a wheel. Lesson. Bike. How to knit, knit, insert, dial, replace, spokes on a 36-spoke bicycle wheel. Replacing permanent bearings in a bicycle carriage.

Some people prefer cars, while others prefer two-wheeled vehicles, particularly bicycles. It is not necessary to purchase a helmet for them, as with motorcycles; you do not need a license, registration certificate or other documents. But there is something that unites them all - the need for repairs. And often lovers of active or extreme sports are faced with the need to repair the rear hub of a bicycle.

Experienced bikers prefer to make repairs on their own. This allows you not only to save money, but also to gain additional skills that have never hurt anyone. Although a bicycle is not as complex a structure as a motorcycle or even a car, not everyone can quickly disassemble it and then reassemble it correctly.

What does the wheel consist of?

The wheel of any classic bicycle consists of the following components:

• bushings;
• knitting needles;
• rim;
• tires.

The bushing is the central part through which torque is generated. The brakes are usually attached to it. From a design point of view, the design of the rear hub of a bicycle is somewhat more complicated than the front one. In addition, not every product can be disassembled yourself, as some bushings require special tools and equipment. In addition, certain knowledge and skills are required. Typically the hub is connected to the rim via spokes, which adds rigidity to the wheel structure.

Types of bicycle hubs

A high-quality and reliable bushing can minimize friction while the bicycle is moving. This, in turn, leads to improved roll-on performance. There are a variety of bushings, depending on one or another characteristic:

• location;
• fixation method;
• type of brake;
• raw materials used;
• number of spokes;
• dimensions

For two-wheelers vehicles In addition to the front, there is also a rear hub of the bicycle. Moreover, the first one is simpler, since it is responsible only for fastening and rotating the wheel. The rear hub still has the ratchet and cassette attached. There are only two ways to fix the bushings. The first of them is the simplest and at the same time the cheapest - only two nuts for a 16 key. Another method is even simpler, but more expensive - using an eccentric. To remove the wheel, you need to pull the mechanism handle. The process takes place in a matter of seconds. Eccentrics are used in the production of almost any modern bicycle.

As for the braking system, some bike rear hubs are only compatible with V-brake rim brakes. There are also bushings for drum brakes. But these days this phenomenon is very rare and does not occur on every city bike. The more reliable the bushing, the longer its service life. But there are specific features of using each material. Steel structures are inexpensive, but are subject to corrosion. Aluminum analogues, on the contrary, are more expensive, but are more resistant to rust. Thus, it all comes down to financial capabilities.

The number of wheel spokes, according to a common standard, can be 32 or 36. A lower number makes the wheel lighter, but less rigid. Conversely, the more spokes, the heavier and stronger the wheel. It is important that both the rim and the hub are designed for the same number of spokes.

Regarding the size of the bushings, it all depends on their diameter. The larger it is, the stronger the part, but the weight will also be greater. The diameter of the rear hub of a standard bike is 9 or 10 mm. For more intensive and extreme use of two-wheeled vehicles, products with a diameter of 14-15 mm are suitable. As for the length, for the front bushings it is 108-110 mm. While the rear ones are longer - from 135 to 146 mm.

When is bushing repair necessary?

It’s unlikely that anyone would think of just taking off a wheel. Perhaps only to a person who specializes in disassembling bicycles. In all other cases, there must be a reason, since it is better not to meddle with a working mechanism again. The following symptoms may indicate a malfunction of the bushing itself:

• When the bike is moving, the wheel play is noticeable.
• In some cases, a characteristic crunching sound is heard, which indicates worn bearings.
• The bushing body is unsteady and makes noise when driving.
• Deterioration of rolling dynamics.

Looseness and rotation of the hub housing of the rear wheel of a bicycle, in fact, is not a particular problem. In this case, it is enough to tighten the fasteners. However, you should not overdo it (which sometimes happens), since if the nuts are tightened too tightly, it will be much more difficult for the wheel to rotate. Bearing malfunction is easily determined by deterioration in the degree of rolling and extraneous sounds. Sometimes this may indicate a lack of lubrication or its complete absence.

Common fault

The most common problem with a bicycle rear hub is that it is loose or too tight. Loosening leads to wheel play, which can increase over time if no action is taken. As a result, this can lead to deformation of both the hub itself and the wheel.

When the rear hub cone is tightly tightened speed bike its movement will be greatly hampered. It is possible that in this case the bearings may begin to make a crunching sound, which is not good. In some cases, the bushing may be bent or even broken. For the most part, this happens due to the fault of low-quality parts, and the problem can only be solved by replacing it with a reliable option.

Maintenance

Just like cars, bicycles also need regular maintenance. This applies to all parts and bushings in particular. It is advisable to inspect it every two thousand kilometers. However, here, unlike four-wheeled vehicles, there is nothing to measure the distance traveled. Therefore, in the case of active driving, routine diagnostics should be carried out at least once every three months. With less intensive use, you can do it even less often. If the wheels have not been serviced for a long time, do not be surprised that soon the bearings of the rear hub of a bicycle with a brake will literally begin to crumble. Regular lubrication of such parts is the key to their long life.

Regular maintenance also includes:

• periodically tightening the bushing body so that it does not become loose;
• replacement of bearing balls with severe wear;
• lubrication of all parts without exception from the inside;
• if necessary, adjust the brake pads.

Removing an entire wheel is much easier than removing just the hub, but this is not always required. However, when you need to replace the entire body, you cannot do without complete dismantling.

Rear wheel removal process

The whole process can be represented as a simple operation. Just first you need to remove all the hanging items that are there. Mirrors, flashlights, as well as other necessary small items and accessories can interfere with work. In addition, you can inadvertently damage them.

Further steps when repairing a bicycle rear hub:

• The vehicle is turned upside down and placed on the seat and steering wheel. You can use a special stand for this, or you can do without it; it is important to ensure the bike is in a stable position.
• Next you need to determine the type of brakes installed. With disc mechanisms, the wheels can be easily removed. If this rim brakes V-brake, then you will first need to unclench them and remove them, otherwise dismantling the wheel is impossible. To release the brakes, you need to move the cable towards the mounting screw and remove it from the clamp. Lowering it down, we move the pads apart.
• Now you should pay attention to how it is fixed rear wheel on the axis. If these are nuts, then they are unscrewed with one or two appropriate keys. If this is an eccentric mechanism, then it is enough to unscrew the brake lever and twist the wheel.
• In the future, you will need to remove the chain using caution and accuracy.

That's all - the wheel has been dismantled, and now you can move on to further work on disassembling and assembling the rear hub of the bicycle, servicing and repairing parts.

Bicycle hub repair and maintenance

For successful subsequent assembly, it is better to repair the hub on a removed wheel, but without dismantling the spokes. The process steps are as follows:

• The cassette is removed from the axle using a special tool (puller or whip).
• The locking ring opens.
• The washers and bulk bearings (industrial bearings) are removed. The main thing is to remember the location of the parts so that you can assemble them correctly later.
• Bearing diagnostics. Defective parts are replaced with new products. If they are not yet worn out, they should be cleaned of dirt using a solvent.
• Complete axle removal.
• Cleaning the housing from dirt. To do this, you should use only a soft cloth, wiping each cavity with it.
• All elements are consistently lubricated. First, a small amount of the substance is distributed along the walls of the housing. Bearings can be lubricated more abundantly.
• The final process of repairing a bicycle rear wheel hub. Assembly is carried out in reverse order, including installing the stopper and tightening the fasteners.

When tightening the rear wheel hub, do not use too much force. The bicycle should move freely, and not barely drag.

Basic Troubleshooting

All detected malfunctions should be corrected immediately to avoid bad consequences. To remove the play, you will need wrenches. Basically, these are a 15-point cone tool and a 17-point open-end wrench. You must first unscrew the lock nut and then, depending on the situation, loosen or tighten the cone nut. Ideally, there should be no play at all. After manipulating the cone fastener, the locknut should be replaced. ABOUT correct adjustment the cone nut will indicate easy rotation of the wheel due to the force of gravity perceived by the reflector or nipple.

Caution comes first!

It is worth noting that the design of the sleeve includes many small parts. Typically, they are made from either hardened steel or hardened chrome-molybdenum alloy. This makes the parts fragile, so you always need to act with increased attention and accuracy.

When carrying out routine repairs and maintenance of the rear hub of a Stealth bicycle, do not forget about safety precautions. The rational thing to do is to protect your eyes. When making repairs, it is highly recommended not to remove the wheel spokes first. Also, do not use a vice on the bushing and its components.

Rear wheel installation process

It will help to correctly install the rear wheel by strictly following the reverse order of dismantling. To do this, we adhere to the following algorithm:

• The chain is put on the smallest sprocket size. After this, the wheel is inserted into the bicycle body mount. It is important to ensure that the axle is finally secured in the grooves of the frame.
• On next stage The nuts or eccentrics should be tightened with the necessary force so that the wheel does not later jump out of the frame.
• If the bike uses rim brakes, this is a further step. The main thing is to fasten them strictly in the reverse order. Otherwise, the trip will not be so safe.

Upon completion of the wheel installation, it is necessary to conduct a small test of the bicycle in order to check the functionality of all parts. Do not neglect the maintenance of all parts and mechanisms of the bicycle. After all, this is the only way to extend their service life.

To sum it up

How to assemble a bicycle rear hub? The answer is simple: maintenance is important bicycle parts, mainly the rear, which is not such a difficult job. No particularly large investments are required here. However, if you ignore maintenance for a long time, the final repair can end up costing you quite a lot of money. In some cases, it will be easier to buy a new bike.

One of the most practical and healthy vehicles is a bicycle. However, its maintenance can cost you a pretty penny if you don’t know how to repair even minor breakdowns.

In such cases, it is simply necessary to have such skills as attention to detail and accuracy, since these are the ones that will help you repair or disassemble any part, for example, the rear hub of a bicycle wheel.

Bicycle rear hub and its structure

One of the important spare parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and cassette (sprocket block) are installed. The wheel is the main focus when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly maintain it.

Bushing is a wheel element, mounted on a bicycle frame, namely on drop-mounts. This is the central part of the wheel, ensuring its free rotation.

The bushing consists of the following elements:

1. Lock-nut.
2. Washer.
3. Cone.

Types of rear bicycle hubs, their differences from each other

One of the reasons for dividing rear bushings into varieties is their design. Depending on it, rear bushings are divided into:

1. Without brakes.
2. With built-in brakes.

It should be said that bushings that are not equipped with a brake mechanism are also divided into those without free play and with free play. With an integrated foot brake mechanism, the hubs are designed with free play. If we are talking about the version of the hub with a brake mechanism, then their main feature is that you need to press the pedals in the opposite direction to stop the bike.

According to the method of fixation, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or they can be secured using an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts need to be removed with a wrench, and to remove the wheel on the eccentric, you just need to press its handle. It will only take a couple of seconds.

The material of manufacture also matters. The bushings are:

1. Aluminum(lightweight and non-corrosive).
2. Steel(strong, but heavy and very susceptible to corrosion).

The bushings also differ in the size of the axle; the standards vary - from 9mm to 15mm. Keep in mind that the larger the bushing, the heavier it is.

When to service the rear hub

For proper operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be constantly maintained in good condition. It needs lubrication, and its body must be periodically tightened. In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake hub will not hurt.

Servicing the rear hub is essential because if it doesn't, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is better to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than the front one.

Maintenance is necessary in the following cases:

1. If you hear any noise from the body when the bike moves or wobbles.
2. Backlash.
3. If the bearings crunch.
4. Poor rolling dynamics.

If you do not pay attention to the signs of “illness” of your bicycle described above and use it for a long time when they are present, it can quickly fail.

Repairs, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple wheel maintenance, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for play and that the bearings are not too tight.

Housing disassembly, cleaning and lubrication

Before disassembling the case, you must clean workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with extreme caution.

Initially, you should remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the retaining ring and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in the details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

If any parts are damaged, even the slightest scratches, they should be replaced. Next, you need to pull out the axle, clean the housing from dirt with a soft, dry cloth, and then start lubricating the parts. We do this as we install the parts in place.

How to assemble a bicycle rear hub?

After lubrication, it is necessary to assemble the bushing. To properly assemble the rear hub, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. We insert the axle in such a way as not to confuse which side it is on. right side axis, which is tightly fixed. The axis is adjusted using the left cone.
2. Next, you should put the left cone on the axle until it stops.
3. We put on the washers.
4. Screw on the locknut.
5. We adjust the bearings.

Rear wheel hub repair. Step by step instructions

1. Remove the retaining ring.

Most often, repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either when there is play or when the cone is overtightened. So, step by step instructions:

1. We check the workplace. We clear the workplace of unnecessary tools and things that are not useful to you.
2. Loosen the locknut using a wrench.
3. Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
4. Tighten the locknut into place.

If the cause of the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:

1. After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
2. Remove the hub axle. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the sprockets.
3. We check the parts for malfunctions.
4. We replace the broken part.
5. We install all the parts in place, tighten the flare nuts and the locknut.

Causes of breakdowns

Bicycle wheel failure occurs when various reasons. There can be a large number of them.

Bearings are special parts to maintain the functionality and fixation of rotating components. Their scope of application concerns everything where there is rotation and conjugation. The bicycle did not stand aside, because, in fact, it is a full-fledged transport with all its features.

Bearings for a bicycle are installed in all its parts that rotate, change position and are under load. They can be found in the drive mechanism - carriage, wheel bushings, and more complex devices - ratchets, switches, rear shock absorbers.

Types of bicycle bearings

Based on the type of construction, parts are divided into two types: rolling and sliding.

Rolling bearings are two mating parts with grooves into which rolling elements - balls - are inserted. Their uniform distribution makes it possible to minimize friction in the unit and, accordingly, extend the service life of the entire bearing. The position of the balls is fixed by special partitions - separators. Simple parts without baffles will require more frequent adjustments.

Separated ball bearing

They are used on bicycles in moving parts where high resistance to abrasion and pressure loads is required and slippage is not allowed - steering column, bushings, carriage. They can also be installed in complex mechanisms - shock absorber hinge units and switch rollers.

Sliding bearings are ballless parts. They represent two elements that rotate tangentially relative to each other. Materials for manufacturing are bronze, steel alloys, metal plastics and everything that has a low coefficient of friction.

Compared to rolling bearings, they are less resistant to abrasion, since the two parts interact directly with each other. Wear causes a gap to appear, which causes backlash. Because of this, periodic replacement of the entire assembly or worn components, as well as adjustments, are often required.

This type is used in carriage units of budget models, on switch rollers

Rolling bearings on bicycles are divided into two types: cone-cup and industrial.

The first are bulk bearings - open-type parts. They are represented by a cup in which balls are distributed along a groove, secured with a cone nut. The body is pressed directly into the part itself - steering column or carriage glass.

Industrial bearings are closed parts that are completely inserted into a moving unit. This is their fundamental difference from bulk ones. The system is protected from moisture and dirt, resulting in a longer service life compared to cone-cup designs.

Advantages of loose-type rolling bearings:

• ease of removal and installation;
• can be adjusted in the field;
• It is permissible to change components individually.

Disadvantages include frequent adjustments and the need to clean off trapped dust and dirt.

Industrial bearings do not require adjustment, lubrication or cleaning. The arrangement of the balls and the amount of lubricant in the closed housing remain constant. Water and abrasive do not get inside the cartridge.

Proms are installed on bicycles for aggressive riding.

However, if the bearing is worn out, the entire bearing will need to be replaced. Far from civilization, doing this is problematic. The price of "prom" is significantly higher compared to the cost of bulk.

Separately, it is worth noting ceramic and ceramic-metal bearings. They are made entirely or partially from ceramics, which makes them more resistant to corrosion than their metal counterparts. In addition, they better withstand temperature changes. Parts of this type are installed on high-end bicycles.

Maintenance and replacement of carriage bearings

Periodic cleaning, lubrication and replacement of worn parts will prevent sudden problems with the movement of your bike. Signs of a faulty carriage:

• “clamps” in the pedals – difficult rotation or cranking;
• connecting rods are dangling;
• crunches.

To remove the connecting rods and bottom brackets, you will need special tools - pullers and an internal hex key. The dismantling process is as follows:
1. Turn over and secure the bike.

2. Unscrew the locking nuts using a hollow wrench. You can also use a hammer and chisel, although you need to knock out the nuts carefully so as not to damage the connecting rods.

3. Using a puller, twist them from the axle. This will require significant effort.

4. Using a carriage puller, remove the cups from the glass. The first to unscrew is the cup from the side opposite to the stars. Then remove the axle.

5. Remove the bearings, inspect and replace damaged parts.

6. Clean in kerosene, reinstall and lubricate. When installing, carefully monitor the position: on one side the bearing is placed with the balls facing outwards, on the other – inwards.

After replacing, cleaning and lubricating, reassemble the carriage in the reverse order. After tightening the connecting rods, check their rotation: lack of force and rotation indicate that the cups need to be tightened, and vice versa. In these cases, you will have to repeat the disassembly and adjustment.

Industrial bearings are installed immediately, no adjustment is required.

Disassembling and replacing bearings on the front fork

Wear of the fork hinge assembly manifests itself in play, heavy steering movement and extraneous sounds from the column. It is not recommended to shelve the problem, because the serviceability of the steering along with the brakes is a guarantee of safety.

How to change a fork bearing? At first glance, it is not easy to get close to him. The assembly is securely pressed and hidden in the steering tube. However, in practice everything looks simple:

1. Turn the bike over and unscrew it front wheel.
2. Place the bike in its normal position and remove the handlebars and stem (you will need a wrench or hex for the inner nut).
3. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the locknut and remove the lock washer.
4. Unscrew the cup.
5. After dismantling the housing, carefully remove the bearing itself. The parts on the forks of most bicycles are not equipped with separators, so we make sure that the balls do not fall apart.
6. Carefully inspect all components. Rusty, knocked out balls must be replaced with new ones.
7. Clean the glass, bearing and cup from dirt, and then lubricate thoroughly.

From left to right: Removing the handlebar, locknut and lock washer

Bearing cartridges are completely replaced with new ones. To be fair, it should be noted that partial replacement of bulk joints is not good for the fork, and it is also recommended to install another part. When purchasing a new bearing, you need to know exactly the prescribed dimensions - they may differ for different forks. If they are unknown, the part in the store is selected according to the old one.

Installation of the fork is carried out in the opposite order: after pressing the bearing, the cup is screwed in, then the washer and lock nut are put on. Checking the tightness of the cup: when the bicycle is tilted, the front wheel should deviate from the straight position by 15 - 20 degrees. If it hardly moves, you need to loosen the hinge. A large deflection of the wheel indicates weak tightening, and the glass needs to be tightened.

Replacing wheel hub bearings

The hub is not just the axis of rotation of the wheel. Without the built-in hinge mechanism, the forces would be transferred unevenly to it, and the bicycle would not be able to move. The same symptoms appear when the bearings are worn out.

Disassembling the bushing is as easy as disassembling a fork. For the rear wheel, the procedure will be a little more complicated than for the front, since you will first need to remove the cassette with sprockets. On a single-speed bicycle, the locking ring and the sprocket itself are dismantled.

In general, the disassembly looks like this:
1. Remove the wheels from the dropouts.

2. Remove the stars using a cassette puller and a retaining whip. On the singlespeed, release the stopper with a screwdriver or a special release tool.

3. Using a 15mm wrench, unscrew the fastening nuts. For the rear wheel hub, unscrew the nut on the side opposite to the sprockets.

4. Remove washers and bearing units. Bulk ones are being moved, industrial ones are being replaced with new ones.

5. Clean parts and replace damaged components.

6. Pull out the axles and wipe the internal cavities of the bushings.

Reassemble in reverse order. It is important to correctly install the bearings and press in the cones, just as it was before disassembly. Under no circumstances should distortions be allowed; the parts should fall exactly into their rightful places. When reassembling, it is not advisable to swap them. This threatens backlash and deterioration of wheel travel.

New bearings are pre-selected based on the old ones - they must be the same as they were before the repair. Lubrication – key point bulkheads and replacements (in the case of “embankment”). When installing the "prom", the assembly itself does not need to be lubricated, only the internal cavities of the bushing and the axle. After installation, we check the functionality of the wheels: a smooth ride without play or clamps indicates that the parts are installed correctly.

Conclusion

So, a bicycle bearing, as we found out, is the most important part in every moving unit. Its good condition, timely maintenance and replacement will ensure good performance and safety of movement.

Removing the wheels from the frame is a mandatory procedure maintenance bicycle. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of rim deformations, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or the entire tire, as well as wear on the sprocket system for the rear wheel.

Experienced cyclists welcome repairing wheels themselves, and for good reason: it’s cheaper, and you’ll gain more skills. You can also contact a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not for free. Moreover, the service is unlikely to be located under the windows of the house, so the bicycle will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels of a bike. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from a bicycle, repair it and reassemble it correctly.

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from a bicycle frame will just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle disassembly. But this is a completely different case. Rear wheel removal will be required if the following problems occur:

• noticeable damage to the rim;
• complete wear when the wheel needs to be replaced;
• the tube has gone flat or the tire has burst;
• bushing bulkhead.

This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Replacing a bicycle tube

Before removal, the bike must be turned over and installed on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove canopies in the form of a mirror, a bell and a lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brake brakes are first released and removed, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models everything is simpler - you can immediately remove the wheel.

It must be said that the removal process itself consists only of unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the bushing axis, depending on what it is. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut is loosened with one or two keys.

Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, which is used to remove the nuts one by one. If the hub axle rotates, then the nuts unscrew simultaneously in different sides. It is recommended to use open-end or box-end wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, since its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

Replacing a bicycle tube

To remove the tire and remove the damaged tube, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: unscrew the cap and continuously press the nipple to deflate the wheel. If there is no air in the tire, which often happens with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you will need special mounting blades. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver or even a knife, but it’s better to have a professional tool. Using mounts, the tire is pryed off from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it begins to tighten, you need to pry the beads a little further until there is enough free part of the tire that it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim; you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged tube and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect against the sharp points of the spokes. If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.

Placed on top of the rim outer part tires, this time, from the nipple side. When installing a tire, you need to take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Typically, arrows are drawn on the tires, and when the bike is upside down, the direction forward is backward in the down position. However, it is not difficult to make a mistake with the rear wheel of a high-speed mountain bike, thanks to the cassette on the side. After installation, the chamber is inflated.

Removing the cassette and rebuilding the hub

The hub is one of the parts of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km, which is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already squeaking and there is a decrease in rotation efficiency, in other words, the bike rides worse, then it’s time to remove it and inspect the hub.

The main problem with the bushing is play and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to poor fit or increased friction, parts begin to wear out quickly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may completely fall apart. To gain access to the hub bearings, you will need to temporarily remove the rear sprockets.

The rear speed device is removed using a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette doesn't take long, but it will take a lot of force to unscrew it from the wheel. Step by step it looks like this:

1. The puller is inserted into the cassette nut.
2. The large star of the system is held with a whip so that it does not turn.
3. With the help wrench the puller rotates, unscrewing the spline nut.
4. We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully put them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, you should slightly loosen the tension on the spokes. This can be done using a round key with holes punched out for different diameters of knitting needles. You don't need to loosen it much, a quarter of a turn is enough. If the bushing needs to be replaced, the spokes must be unscrewed enough to be easily pulled out of their engagements.

A complete replacement of the bushing is required if both the axle and bearings have become unusable. However, often when the bushing jams, the axle is in normal condition; it is enough to change the bearings. Often both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.

Speed ​​bike rear hub diagram

Rebuilding the axle part of the wheel involves cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be placed in a solvent for a while, then allowed to dry, lubricated and installed in place. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted to return them to their straight position. However, during the backlash the parts are already faulty, so the best option there will be a replacement.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on a bicycle

High-quality wheel repair is not only about disassembling, replacing, lubricating or adjusting. On last stage all this chaos needs to be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is placed on the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of turns by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the direction opposite to the loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten it correctly. If the drum is loose, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in this order:

• main stars;
• single stars, small stars;
• tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.

All that remains is to place the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it all off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to spin the pedals and see if the chain moves normally along the sprockets. We turn the bike over and start riding calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be quite time consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are for a bicycle, this will not be so much. Moreover, with experience, reassembling a wheel will take a matter of minutes.