Air guns are more suitable for fans of gaming crafts and homemade weapons. We will tell you the very principle of manufacturing air guns. For an aesthetic appearance of pneumatics, you can treat wooden parts or use other materials. You can also do this.
How to make an air gun?
To make an air gun you will need the following tools and materials:
- Fitting, car or bicycle;
- 3 wooden blocks:
- The first is 30 cm;
- Second - 12 cm;
- Third - 11 cm;
In the smallest block, on one side we drill a hole through with a smaller diameter, then with a large drill we drill it halfway.
- Dishwashing detergent lid;
- Plastic tube;
- Epoxy glue;
- Half liter bottle;
- packaging of metal balls.
Cut a hole on the side of the bottle to fit the diameter of the fitting. We glue it with epoxy glue to seal the bottle. Tighten the fitting with a nut.
We cut off the bottle cap a little and insert a plastic tube and also fill it with glue. We also fill the threaded neck of the bottle and tighten the second part of the cap.
We insert the plug with the tube into the hole in the bar. Fill the remaining space with epoxy.
We connect a long block with a short one. On the middle block, cut the edge at a slight angle. Glue a long block to it back. Then we glue the ring cut from the cap and glue it to the bottom of the bottle.
Final stage
The last step is to connect the bottle to the air gun.
When buying an air rifle, many people prefer spring-piston models due to their low cost and the absence of the need to buy a pump or high-pressure cylinder. But not all shooting enthusiasts know that making a PCP air rifle with your own hands is not such an impossible task. Few owners of fractures like shooting so much that they are willing to pay 15-20 thousand for the purchase of a PCP rifle and another five thousand for a pump (the cylinder costs closer to ten thousand). But many would like to have a PCP rifle at a similar price and are willing to buy a pump. Of course, owning a PCP must start with a high-pressure air source, either a pump or a cylinder with a charging station (which can be refilled from divers or firefighter friends).
So what to do if you want a rifle, but don’t have much money? There is a way out. Air rifle with your own hands is a real opportunity to have an inexpensive air balloon. Quite a lot of different kits are sold on the air gun market (from the English kit - assembly kit, designer). The price of a kit equipped to convert a spring (multi-compression) model into a PCP version is in the range of 6-8 thousand rubles. As a rule, from the technical side of the issue, no difficulties arise. All you need is a file, pliers and a hammer.
Step 1 - search for a donor in stores, flea markets and attics
IZH-60.61 (MR-60.61) rifles are suitable for conversion to PCP. The difference between the IZ and the MR is in the receiver, the IZ is metal, the MR is plastic. It depends on the year of manufacture. The list of rifles also includes: MP-553, MP-553K, Crosman Benjamine Discovery. The pistols being converted have a much wider selection, but they are all Crosman. Models: 1377,1322, 2240, 2300, American Classic Pistole. It doesn’t matter what condition the donor is in, the main condition is a complete receiver and trigger (for pistols there’s also a handle). A suitable model can be purchased both in a store and from individuals in used condition. You can also exchange your existing rifle for the desired donor. Before remaking the air vent, study the theory; on the Internet, many professionals give advice on specialized sites.
Step 2 – Prepare the necessary tools
Assembling the PCP rifle does not require any special tools. However, not everyone has a hacksaw or a set of needle files. Scroll the necessary tool looks like this:
- a set of needle files of different grain sizes;
- thin-nose pliers, pliers;
- hammer;
- metal file (jigsaw);
- drills of various diameters.
Step 3 – Purchasing the kit
It is better to buy a kit from a trusted seller; kit authors have their own threads on forums selling kits (the most popular are Kruger or Kuente). You need to carefully choose the seller; you should not chase the cheapest. The sales topic should have a lot of pages (it should have been created a long time ago), and both moderators and long-registered users should be noted in the comments in the topic. As a rule, sellers indicate payment details in the topic header. If someone asks you in a personal message to pay using other details, they are scammers.
Step 4 - Disassembling the Rifle
Let's look at the assembly of a PCP rifle using the MP-60 (Kruger's Sniper kit) as an example. The most common rifle model. First you need to disassemble the rifle. All you need is a receiver with a compressor pipe, a barrel and a trigger mechanism.
It is necessary to unscrew the buttplate screw and four screws on both sides of the rifle.
Then you need to remove the retaining ring at the end of the compressor pipe.
Pull out the pin securing the cocking lever and the back of the compressor pipe
and, turning counterclockwise, pull out the cocking lever, aligning it with the cutout in the pipe
And first pull out the back (carefully pulling it out counterclockwise), then the spring and all the other giblets.
Step 5 – preparing the donor for kit installation
After disassembly, it is necessary to clean everything from old grease and be sure to use a file to go through all the sharp edges of the compressor pipe (inside and outside). This is necessary for the normal operation of the strike group. It is also better to remove the sear and use a file to process the part that holds the firing pin in the cocked position. It would be a good idea to polish the inside of the pipe.
Step 6 - PCP Assembly
The kit comes in this form:
- high pressure tank
- protective cover (protects pressure gauge and filling port)
- hammer spring tension adjustment device
- drummer
- The disk is no longer included due to the many assembly videos on the Internet
- barrel rail for installing optics (fits onto the barrel)
- connecting figure eight for tank and barrel
- integrated sound moderator
- additional sound moderator (additional option)
- filling connection
- Quick filling fitting (additional option)
- set of sealing rubber products (as spare parts)
- spare safety valve
First, we install the reservoir, it must be lubricated (in the place where the rubber bands are) with silicone grease, carefully twisting it, insert it into the compressor pipe and fix it with two screws (without tightening it all the way). In this case, you need to align the holes for the bolts and the bypass. You need to insert the tank extremely carefully so as not to cut off the rubber seals.
Then the barrel strip and the connecting eight are installed. If the figure eight enters with force, then it is necessary to unscrew the tightening screw and tighten it on the other side, thereby loosening the figure eight. The figure eight should not be fixed after installation, because the stock is attached to it and the holes will need to be aligned.
Next, install the striker and the rear plug with a spring, kit numbers 4 and 3, respectively. When installing the striker, you must first lift the trigger, and then push the striker all the way. To exclude random shot, since the striker has a handle (by which it is cocked), you first need to unscrew it, insert the striker into the pipe and screw the handle back.
Then the spring and rear adjustment plug are inserted. The rear plug is secured with a screw that rests on the cut in the compressor pipe.
Next, we put on the sound moderator. There is a screw on the connecting eight that rests on the sound moderator, thereby fixing it to the barrel. This screw should not be tightened with great force, so as not to damage the coating.
Step 7 – adjusting the stock
The most difficult thing in converting the MP-60 (IZH-60) into the PCP version is adjusting the stock. You need to be patient; technologically there is nothing complicated about this. If you have a Dremel and similar drilling machines, then everything will take about an hour. If you only have a metal file and files, then one evening. The main thing is not to rush.
First, we make a cut in the back of the stock (closer to the trigger), using a grinder, jigsaw, Dremel or hacksaw. If you make cuts with a metal file, you first need to drill several holes in order to insert the file. Then, in a horizontal plane, we cut out all the stiffeners up to the back wall (where the cut was made). On the lower workpiece in the photo, the stiffening ribs are cut off.
We make cuts in the vertical part and break out the cut plastic with pliers. We file the remainder along the edges with a file.
Next, we begin to expand the bed, removing excess. It is necessary to constantly try plastic against metal. It is also necessary to cut down the front part of the stock. Also saw off experimentally, trying it on the iron. It is necessary to achieve such a position of the reservoir pipe so that it enters the stock approximately along the red line.
You need to use a set of files or needle files of different grits. Where to remove more - higher grain size, where to polish - with a needle file. When adjusting the front part of the stock, you need to achieve approximately the same position as in the photo. Next, you should start adjusting the rear part, closer to the trigger. And ensure that the holes for attaching the stock to the receiver match.
In the rear part of the stock, it is also necessary to remove excess plastic with a file in order for the fastenings to match. In the photo the plastic in the back has been removed
After adjustment on both sides, the connecting eight (connects the tank and the barrel) will rest with its beard against the stock. It is necessary to use a chisel or a drill (without going in, flat as a milling cutter), or a milling cutter to make a cut for a figure eight, in the place where the standard hole for attaching the stock is located. In the end it should look something like the photo.
It is best to cut the front part of the stock using a wood crown, with a diameter that matches the diameter of the tank. Or attach a template and make a neat rounding by hand, with a metal file or jigsaw.
The safety margin of the plastic of these rifles is very large; this kind of trimming of the “excess” will not weaken the stock. It will perform its function. After adjusting the stock and matching all the mounting holes, we install the butt. PCP assembly is complete.
Making a PCP rifle with your own hands is not difficult at all. If you have problems with accuracy, you can simply cut the plastic so that the mounting holes meet; this will not affect the accuracy of the rifle. An example of assembly in the photo.
Converting Crosman pistols to PCP is much easier. There is no need to adjust the butt. Just disassemble the gun and reassemble it with a set of spare parts from the kit. Moreover, you can easily make a rifle from a pistol, you just need to buy a long barrel and a butt. In addition, on the air gun market there is a large selection of receivers for building a PCP rifle; it is not necessary to buy a whole rifle. The price of the cheapest PCP rifle starts at approximately 16,000 rubles. The price of the conversion kit is about eight thousand. You can use the difference to buy a high-pressure cylinder or pump. At the same time, there may still be enough for a new stock (so as not to have to worry about fitting). There are many stock options (carbine, bullpup and others) for the PCP version of the MP-60. The price is very different, one of the options in the photo, the price is about 1500 rubles (for a stock for MP-60).
After assembly, the kit has optimal settings; when ordering, you can discuss individual settings. The speed of the bullet, at the initial stage (without making changes to the strike group), is changed by increasing or decreasing the spring preload force (the adjusting screw is located in the rear plug).
The alteration process itself takes a little time, and those who like to tinker with metal are a pleasure. After all, in essence, you create weapons yourself. It's like a transition from compound bows to the arquebuses.
Step 8 - Setup Phase
After assembling the pneumatic, despite the fact that it has initial settings (depending on the caliber), more precise (optimal for air flow) settings will not be superfluous. This is where registering on the forums from step 2 comes in handy. To measure the speed of a bullet, you will need a chronograph; without this device it will be difficult to adjust the rifle; you can borrow it from fellow pneumatic guns; in every region, without exception, there are fans of air guns. Without velocity measurements, you can only select bullets for your rifle. To do this, it is best to buy small packages of different bullets, not only from different manufacturers, but also of different weights and sizes. And shoot them, it is better to shoot them in series of 5-7 shots. Each type will have its own accuracy, and bullets are selected based on this parameter. JSB bullets are considered one of the best for accurate shooting, it’s better to start with them right away. It’s not worth buying cheap bullets - it’s a waste of money, their weight and geometry differ for almost every bullet. Also, if you record the pressure in the tank after each shot, you can identify a plateau in air consumption. A PCP rifle has this property: at a certain pressure value, you can fire a series of shots with minimal air consumption, this is the so-called “plateau”. The airgan community is quite friendly, so you can ask for help fine-tuning in your area. But even without a chronograph and gear adjustment, you can build an accurate and powerful PCP rifle for little money.
Everyone is healthy. I will boast about another homemade product called a pneumatic dart thrower. 
Type of pump. 
And here is the ammunition: a homemade dart made from a nail, 9 cm long and with a total length of 12 cm with feathers. 
Compared to a matchbox. 
Well, a little theory, in short, air is pumped into a balloon from under the polyurethane foam using a bicycle pump (we pump a maximum of 5 atmospheres), then through a water tap we let it into the tube in which the dart is located, under pressure the dart flies out at a very high speed and flies very far. The dart launcher was tested on a chicken and a hare (dead) and I was very pleased as it pierced both right through, while the feathers of the dart remained in the carcass. but today I will show you a test on wood (pine) when shooting from two meters.
open the rubber seal 
insert the dart. 
We close the shutter and shoot at this tree. 
We get there and mark the depth. 
We tear it out with pliers and freak out. 
Here's a comparison with a matchbox. 
So let's sum it up, the results.
There are no photos or videos of production, I was captivated by the assembly process. All connections are made by cold welding. darts made of nails and paper with a joint wrapped in electrical tape.
Well, without the parameters of a dart launcher.
barrel length 70 cm
diameter 20mm
material metal-plastic
aluminum stock, bolt connections
Compressed air cylinder material like tin
the connections of the cylinder with the barrel and the valve are made by cold welding
Well, now the shooting parameters
effective range 100-150 meters
the total flight range of a dart at a barrel angle of 30 degrees is about 400 meters
pressure in the cylinder 4.5 atmospheres
and here are the pros and cons
+simple design, anyone can assemble it; their hands grow from where they need to
+ lethality
+ availability of materials both for manufacturing and for shells
-long recharge
- if the sealing is poor, a rupture will occur (to avoid this, you need to inflate the balloon a little with air and lower it into the water, where bubbles will come from and seal it)
- accuracy varies, but mostly indoors from a distance of 10 meters, accuracy is 15 cm with a 70 cm barrel, and 10 cm with a meter barrel
Of course I'm happy with everything. Here are a couple of tips if you assemble using my technology: do not skimp on cold welding, do not inflate the balloon to more than 6 atmospheres. For technical reasons I can’t upload the video.
In my plans, the design of a pneumatic machine is maturing, so we are waiting.
See you.
Dear readers! The article was published a long time ago and was written for specific videos in the “humor” category. Over time, many creators have chosen to remove their videos from YouTube. Nothing can be done about this, and there is no point in rewriting the article from scratch. So I leave the corresponding inserts in place of the removed rollers. For history, many of the carved examples of manufacturing were quite interesting.
All owners of pneumatics sooner or later have a desire to tune their favorite - increase power, accuracy, make a beautiful body kit. The extreme form of such an activity turns into a desire to create something of one’s own. About how they make it in Rus' air gun with your own hands and we will talk further.
The original idea of the article was far removed from the current content; drawings, diagrams, manuals, the best original works, etc. were planned.
Expected
But after viewing the available information on YouTube, the worldview on this problem has changed; what happens next can contribute to causing nervous paralysis and the wildest criticism. So it’s better for the faint of heart to look for something else. And yes... there will be a lot of videos so that you can experience the same thing that I did. But first, a little educational program on this Wednesday, so that the hearts of seasoned pneumatic pipes certainly don’t skip a beat.
Operating principle
A slight evolution of weapons from our childhood. Surely everyone reading this has thrown a stone at someone at least once in their life? Surely almost everyone had a couple of dozen slingshots? And who made a crossbow with elastic bands and a clothespin? Has anyone used inflated bottles among throwing weapons? Now, if the memory begins to recover, then we continue.
Since homemade pneumatic weapons in our country today are not shown by high masters of this business, the main principles of creating them are simpler and cheaper. Therefore, the basic principles of operation of such weapons:
- rubber(!!!)-piston pneumatics - based on “syringes” and rubber bands
- PCP - no matter how cool it sounds based on plastic bottle and bicycle pump
It is these two classes that describe the entire model range of inexpensive homemade pneumatics on the Internet. There are also options with flammable liquids... but this is another level.
Caliber
Since for the most part craftsmen are not familiar with the standards in the field of pneumatics, the bullets for such weapons are very specific. From the usual ones, 4.5 mm “shots” and 6 mm airsoft balls were seen. Unusual items include cardboard, stones, syringe needles, nails, darts. Here is such a friendly list. By the way, in terms of power, some samples would be worth checking for muzzle energy.
Material
The material used here is also very different. From the most amateurish wood carvings to quite passable, almost jewelry-like metal work. But the main class of items used are plumbing fixtures for various purposes. When you watch the video in the future, you will notice this more than once.
Masters
It remains to be seen who the very magicians of modern cheap pneumatics are. No, gentlemen, these are not plumbers or even Mario. In the video, it’s mostly children who are making samples of light hardball weapons... Apparently, children of hardball players (since a bottle of “Vstrel” was spotted, I really love it). Or airsoft plumbers (judging by plastic trends). Or partially conjugated... Let’s not get carried away with such a terrible “Santo Barbara”, but something is clearly not clean here. I suggest you start getting acquainted with exemplary videos from around the world.
Rubber piston gun
Here's how to make an air gun. Mainly we will show below homemade rifles, but this is where you can see a pistol, and even a RUBBER piston one. I sincerely hope that the audience of this resource will not need diagrams, let’s use our heads. You don’t have to watch the video unless it’s for general education or to lift your spirits.
PCP principle
The author of this video will teach how to make an air gun based on PCP - bottle, nipple, pump, bolt, valve... In general, I am attaching this video as basic principle organizations in in simple form all the following samples.
PCP with metal storage
And in this video, almost the main “terrorist” of this country shows us a new PCP with an installed metal tank. I added the video out of possible interest in the author; in his videos he shows the making of anything and everything, and most importantly, something that explodes (worse than HOGs). The control you need might be interested.
PCP at 4.5 mm
And here is another homemade pneumatic weapon based on PCP under 4.5 mm with a tube-shaped reservoir. The technology is one of the most widespread on the Internet. Along the way, hardball players will soon be re-equipped...
PCP with a "strong one and a half"
And this is a variant of the previous pneuma, but with the most ordinary one-and-a-half-wheeler on board. For some reason I even liked her more for her originality.
Rise of the Plumbers
And here the scope is wider, you can immediately see the “not childish” fun. It feels like the pipes from my bathroom have been dismantled and gone to war. Shoots a nail dart. In general, I recommend watching it, it’s a good vintar. And most importantly, the descent is very entourage.
Airsoft
And here the author offers a do-it-yourself air gun for airsoft... to be more precise, a plumbing machine gun. The video is popular on the Internet, maybe someone has seen it. On foreign language, but I think almost everyone here will understand how to assemble pipes. The most complete manual for assembling a machine gun to destroy visible and invisible enemies.
Bonus!!!
And finally, just a cool video about a homemade pneumatic pistol with a high changeable caliber - potatoes. For those who have something like this lying around in their cellars since winter, I suggest switching to such a projectile. Moreover, production is as simple as shelling pears.
That's all. So we learned how to make air guns in the most difficult and limited conditions. Danila Bagrov with his plumbing sawn-off shotgun simply does not live up to the level. And due to the young age of the main participants, it’s even scary to imagine what will happen to hardball in 10 years. Stay with us, play, shoot, and most importantly, don’t keep all this higher-level nonsense in your head. Have a great weekend everyone!!!
