- Alexander Alexandrovich, have you been associated with Fisher skis for a long time?
Yes, a long time ago, since 1977, i.e. for more than 30 years.
Then, probably, your experience will be useful to those amateur athletes who ski a lot, in different weather conditions and at the same time select their own skis. Are you interested in the question of the preferred use of Fisher skis in the COLD and WARM temperature ranges in the Moscow region?
Here the situation is as follows. Warm and cold skis naturally have different bases. Warm base – 28th. There is a 5th base, but it is mainly on the water, and athletes of these skis usually have one pair each. What is the difference between plastic? Warm skis have a higher percentage of graphite. This is done so that there is no so-called moisture leakage, since a higher percentage of graphite creates greater porosity sliding surface which prevents moisture from suction. In the Moscow region, athletes predominantly use skis with a warm base due to high humidity and the fact that the slopes are almost always soft, and warm skis also have softer toes and heels. This allows the ski to glide better on soft trails. In cold skis, the percentage of graphite is lower, their sliding surface is smoother and has a slightly grayish tint. The design of cold skis is more rigid, designed for frosty and, therefore, tougher slopes, and this is done so that the ski does not collect this snow underneath. In the Moscow region, the routes are prepared mainly light equipment- snowstorms, so you should choose warm skis.
So how can you use Fisher skis to solve the problems of different weather conditions during the winter, and yet you also mentioned “water” skis with a 5th base. What advice can you give here?
Here the situation is as follows: if we take “warm” skis - with a 28 base (not every amateur athlete can afford to have “warm”, “cold”, and “super-warm” skis at the same time), then with the help of knurling and creating the appropriate structures can solve the problem for different temperature conditions. It is very desirable, of course, that the knurling be pressing and not cutting. The result of the knurling work disappears after two or three treatments (applying and removing paraffin), and again the factory grinder remains. On “cold” Fisher skis there is a cold grind, on “warm” skis there is a universal one. Fisher skis are considered universal - you can easily cover the entire season with one or two pairs using knurling. Skis from other companies, for example, Madshus, are also very good, but they have a narrower temperature range. National team athletes can afford to have a large number of different pairs of skis, but for amateurs with their limited financial resources this is difficult.
Three years ago, when there were severe frosts in Moscow, during which plastic skis practically did not slip, I noticed that those who were on the Fisher classic at temperatures below minus 30 degrees still rode very well. Do the Fisher company and you, as a practitioner, have any recommendations on how to prepare skis for such frost?
Here everything depends on the structure of the ski - a “cold” ski should be almost smooth. In severe frost, the snow is dry, and if we apply a small structure to the ski, then the snow powder will fill this structure, and the so-called suction will result due to the structure being clogged with snow powder. If you take a smooth ski and at the same time cover it with cold, “glassy” paraffin, for example, the previously produced green SWIX or STAR, and then properly treat the ski, the paraffin will cover the entire structure and there will be no suction due to snow powder. In this case, you can even use “warm” skis, but they must be without structure. If you do not close the structure, the snow powder clogs the structure and the ski begins to slow down, as if it were driving on sand.
From conversations with athletes, it seems that for skating, Fisher skis should be chosen a little longer than what is suggested by standard recommendations. Are these features of their design?
No, the Fisher skis do not have any design features in terms of length selection. The new ski sizes seem to carry a slightly smaller size, i.e. to a size of 177 cm you need to add another 3 centimeters. Previously there were sizes of 180, 185, 190 cm. Now the longest length skating skis"Fisher" 192cm. The choice of ski length should be determined by the athlete’s height and qualifications. If the athlete is well coordinated, then he chooses longer skis. Now skating move divided into sprint and distance. Sprinters choose shorter skis. This is necessary in order to “not get confused” at a distance with a very high frequency of steps, which is positively influenced by short equipment. If a person runs distance races, he has good coordination, a powerful push, then he chooses longer skis. If coordination is insufficient, and this can be attributed, for example, to veterans, then in this case shorter skis should be chosen. When choosing the length of skis, the parameters of the route also play a role in skating. Now the slopes are well prepared, but where this is not the case, where the ski tracks are narrow, the skis should be shorter. Therefore, I repeat, everything depends on how the athlete is prepared, how the track is prepared and what kind of competition it is.
- Please tell us about the new Soft Track ski model?
Fisher began production under the Soft Track brand classic skis for warm weather large quantities snow on the ski track. In our country, such skis are often called “defective” - when the first such skis appeared, their tips and heels diverged when squeezed. This is the 902 model, which, like the 812 model, differs in “warm” and “cold”. 902 skis are generally stiffer than regular skis. When there is a lot of snow on the track, at the moment of pushing off the tip of the ski rises, and the ski does not collect this snow. A ski of a conventional design in such conditions collects a little snow in front of it and, as a result, slows down. In the 09/10 season, the same Soft Track model will appear among skate skis.
Since last season, Fisher has been installing the NNN platform on its top-level skis. Many hobbyists continue to use shoes with SNS soles and install appropriate bindings on top of the NNN platform. How do you think the increase in the overall stiffness of the ski should be taken into account in this case?
When an NNN platform is glued to a ski, the stiffness of the ski increases minimally. When we install the SNS platform on screws, the final rigidity of the ski increases, and in my practice I have repeatedly had to take this into account, but, I emphasize, this difference concerns specifically the glued NNN platform.
- Thanks for the answers!
Over the course of many days winter hike Tourists constantly have to make multi-hour ski treks over flat and rough terrain, slide down and climb slopes of varying steepness, walk on virgin soil, walking in a thickness of snow that reaches up to one meter. Experienced tourists and skiers know very well that they don’t ride or even run on tourist skis, but walk. Yes, yes, they do! Therefore, you should not be surprised that the speed they are capable of developing is by no means their main quality. What's the main thing?
Much more important are reliability, maneuverability, lack of kickback and sticking (snow sticking to the “sole” of skis), as well as correct selection skis for a specific person.
How to choose touring skis for hiking?
Touring skis are a personal sports equipment, they are selected individually, and the comfort of the entire trip depends on how correctly this is done, both for their owner and for the entire group. It is generally accepted that skis should be as long as a person with his arm raised up, and the poles should reach the armpits.
But I have a different opinion. I choose skis according to the formula - height plus 10 - 15 cm. And then it becomes more convenient to control them on descents and ascents, as well as in the bushes. The poles should be shoulder-length, because... they are partially buried under the snow, because, unlike a ski trip, the hike most often takes place off the beaten track. These selection rules apply to all models and types of skis, both plastic and wooden.
Useful articles:
Traditional, wooden skis
Skis "Beskid". In Soviet times, “Beskid” - tourist skis, were almost impossible to buy in a store. I bought them secondhand, already in “similar” condition, and appreciated them on my first trip. Well-tarred and rubbed with silver ointment, they roll no worse than cross-country racers through the forest and mountains.
Their advantages are reliability and excellent controllability on the ski track and on the descent due to the steel edge. I walked through all the Khibiny mountains, I can say that better skis I don’t know for tourism yet. Their “average” width of 75 mm is also pleasing - they are not as wide as the “Forest” ones and not as narrow as the running ones. Of the shortcomings, probably, the only thing that can be noted is that during a thaw it can become sticky, like all wooden ones.
update from 12/03/2013 After all, Mayak launched the production of Beskid skis. True, they are sold only by the manufacturer itself upon order and with prepayment. The application can be left in the ski factory group “VKontakte”. Cost 4500 rub. + delivery cost transport company(for example, delivery to St. Petersburg costs 500 rubles.)
Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 75 mm
Price: approx. 4500 rub.
Recommendations: best skis for tourism
Skis "Forest". I walked a lot on these skis, both through the forest for which they were intended, and across the mountains, and across the bare, endless tundra. If the line of the route passes through the forest, then “Forest” in this case is one of the most best options, especially if there is a lot of trail. But on rough terrain they are heavier. When descending, they are almost uncontrollable, so there is a chance of sliding not only in front, but also sideways or backwards. The herringbone rise is also complicated - due to the width, “Lesnye” is difficult to place on its edge. Because of it, problems arise when moving on the ski track - you simply cannot fit into it.
I went to Lesnye and along the Pansky tundra on Kola. On the third day, their sliding surface turned into a slab - the wood from which they are made is too soft. And one more drawback - “Forest” often bursts from the heel side - along, along the glued layers. But, nevertheless, “Lesnye” served their purpose with dignity. In a situation where there was a shortage of Beskids, there were no other options other than choosing Lesnye tourist skis. Previously, they were produced in Novgorod, today they are made in Kirov, at the Mayak plant, as well as at the Vologda ski factory. I didn’t have a chance to go to the last two manufacturers’ “Lesny” ones. Currently, this model is practically not used by tourists I know.
Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 110 mm
Price: 1500 - 1900 rub.
Recommendations: hiking in the forest, fishing, hunting
Touring skis "Tourist - Mayak". Skis “Tourist - Mayak” are essentially the same “Beskid” remake, but without edges. I have already tested them. I can say that the skis are good for their price - 1500 rubles. Quite strong. The correct width is 75 mm, there are three types: 180 cm, 190 cm and 200 cm. The first two “heights” are actually 176 and 186, the latter I have not seen in stores, but it is in the Mayak price list. Just like there is a wood-plastic variety of “Tourist”, which costs 100 rubles. more expensive than the wooden one I use.
Skis are suitable for those who are going to buy them for one to one and a half seasons. Then, the edges of the skis will be rounded. If, of course, they even survive until then. In general, a normal budget option.
Characteristics
Material: wood, wood-plastic
Width: 75 mm
Price: 1500 – 1700 rub.
Recommendations: for those who want to try their hand at ski tourism
Soldier's or, as they are also called, army skis are another miracle of the defense industry. These are ordinary touring skis made of soft wood, i.e. their edges wear off quickly. I had to be a little like them. I was surprised that I have never seen them smaller than 220 cm. Probably, the army, when ordering these skis, believes that our soldiers are just grenadiers. In general, because of such a length, it is very difficult to walk through the forest in them, and when climbing like a herringbone, you step on your own heels.
Characteristics
Material: wood
Width: 75 mm
Price: issued free of charge to defenders of the fatherland
Recommendations: use only if there are no alternatives
As a rule, “seasoned tourists” - adherents of the “old school” - walk on the “wooden trees”, noting their main advantages - the almost complete absence of recoil and the absence of the need to use expensive and capricious ointments. Young people and innovators are advocating a departure from ossified tradition, believing that the future of ski tourism lies in plastic. However, my personal experience, says the opposite.
Useful articles:
- Skis "Beskid"
- Skis "Forest"
- Skis "Tourist"
- Ski tour
- Camus for skis
Hiking on plastic tourist skis
Cross-country skiing. Cross-country skis are sometimes used as touring skis. And they are quite suitable if it is a simple hike - a weekend or lasting a couple of days, through a wooded area with well-established ski tracks. You just need to take into account that if the skis are plastic, then you need ointment for the appropriate temperature (especially ointment for recoil), which you also need to be able to select, and also quickly change when the weather changes. Otherwise, the ski trip will be remembered “not in a kind way” and for a very long time.
Characteristics
Material: plastic
Width: 60-65 mm
Price: from 1500 rub.
Recommendations: You can go on short and easy hikes
Alpine skiing. In those days when it was impossible to buy high-quality tourist skis, mountain skis were adapted for hiking. Experience of use alpine skiing I have a small one. I went to see them in Khibiny a couple of times. The skis were called "Polsport". They handle well, but like all plastic ones, there is a danger of “missing the ointment.” In general, it’s not bad if you carry around a set of anti-recoil ointment and a cycle to remove the old ointment.
My use of alpine skis on hikes ended when, while crossing a hole washed out by a stream, I stood with all my weight on the ski and broke it in the block. But the problems didn't end there. Having decided to use its front part, I began to rearrange the mount. But that was not the case. It looks like the ski was reinforced with a metal plate on top. The screws didn't work.
Characteristics
Material: plastic and metal edging
Width: 70-75 mm
Price: from 8000 rub.
Recommendations: only classic alpine skis are suitable (almost not fitted), ointments for all weather conditions or a skin are required.
Touring plastic skis with scales. This is another option for plastic touring skis. They are produced under several trademarks, for example, under the “Equipment” TM. I would like to note that the scales only work on ski tracks or crust; on loose snow they are of no use, but the problem with ointments is also relevant. There are several standard “sizes” - 170, 180, 190, 200 mm.
Characteristics
Material: plastic sliding surface and plastic decorative coating
Width: 70, 100 mm
Price: 3800-4500 rub.
Recommendations: ointments and camus are required
Dressy skis like ski touring with camus. I've only used ski touring skis and boots once, maybe I didn't try them out the first time, but I wasn't comfortable. The leg stands very rigidly, as in ski boot. Apparently, a special step needs to be developed. But there are also obvious advantages: the kamus holds even on a steep climb, you can forget about the “herringbone” and “ladder”. The descent is almost like skiing. Well, another significant drawback is the high price of the kit.
Dmitry Ryumkin especially for
Tips and instructions
Introduction
Below is a text that is a summary of amateur experience. Nothing more. Consider this an invitation to discussion.
Part 1
Does plastic dry?
The wettability of plastic by paraffin is a phenomenon in the thinnest boundary layer. The presence of contaminants and oxidation can prevent contact between plastic and paraffin. The paraffin film will not be continuous, and therefore will not be durable. It is often recommended to scrape new skis immediately. This is an unnecessarily harsh method. New skis can be fuzzy, can be rubbed with greasy hands, and will not take wax. However, the store structure is more good than bad, and it is advisable to preserve it. There is a gentle method for updating the sliding surface (SP) - using a thin steel brush. Then wash the skis with service paraffin and carry out basic preparation.
Pile
The joint of the new ski is smooth, beautiful, the structure is visible, but... it doesn’t roll at all. Perhaps they were unlucky in the weather. But the most likely reason is lint. Cheap (and expensive!) plastic skis, when applied to the structure, can be covered with thin elongated particles of plastic. The edges of the grooves of the new structure are uneven and torn. Alas, it is impossible to feel the character of a ski if there is pile on the joint. In order for the skis to perform well in the weather, the pile must be cleaned.
Options:
- Alternating treatment of skis with soft and hard paraffins, cleaning with rotary brushes. The best brush for cleaning lint is steel very fine racing (very thin steel, very expensive).
- Ride, apply paraffin and ride. Skis can take a long time to go, sometimes after 500 km.
- Cycle new skis. You can lightly remove the lint with a razor scraper, or you can completely demolish the store structure.
- Polishing with a synthetic dishwashing cloth without abrasive crumbs - an analogue of branded fibertex - can help. A combination of methods works.
Ski profile
For Atomic they write that they have a Worldcup Speed profile, for Fisher - Worldcup Skate, and so each manufacturer has its own words. So what is it? Modern skis can have different widths at the tip and tail, and in the last. The distribution of the width of the ski along its length is called the profile. It came from alpine skiing. Skis that are narrowed in the last have a “fitted” profile. These skis are more comfortable to push on hard, icy slopes. Now the skating stroke itself has changed, everyone has become concerned about directional stability when skating on one leg. An “arrow-shaped” profile appeared. But they often write one thing, but if you measure a ski with a ruler, you will see something else. In any case, the profile is not a reason to prefer a certain brand of skis. After all, it is not the profile itself that works, but the connection between torsional rigidity and profile. If the tip of the ski is made soft, then there is no point in loading it when pushing off; it needs to be narrowed. At the point where the ski's force plate begins, which determines its torsional resistance and rigidity, it is wise to widen the ski. We get the Rossignol Cobra and Worldcup Speed Atomic. And Fisher does the same. Further, depending on the internal structure, the relative rigidity of the central part of the ski, it is advantageous to narrow it or leave it flat... That is, any profile of top skis is good. It corresponds to the diagram, the diagram corresponds to the weather/ski track. Madshus produces skis with three different contours for different slopes and corresponding profiles.
How to measure the immeasurable?
It's very interesting to find out how different skis interact with snow. It is not possible to directly observe the process; models are built. Skis are measured in laboratory conditions. The problem is that it's hard to model everything. For example, a skier skates on one ski, putting his weight close to the heel of the boot, and pushes somewhere near the toe of the boot. That is, during each step it rolls from heel to toe. In the laboratory, the snow was replaced with a solid base, and the point of application of the skier’s weight was recorded. When they talk about the diagram of a ski, one must understand that this is just a model. And measuring skis for soft snow on hard ground is wrong. But it's simpler.
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What are “warm” skis and “cold” skis?
The diagram of a ski is how the ski distributes the weight of the skier model onto the snow model (solid base). The most obvious characteristic of a ski that determines gliding in different conditions. There is a B-shaped diagram, typical for frosty skis, and there is a C-shaped diagram for warm weather. Mentally put the letters B and C on their side and you will understand what we are talking about. The difference is in the sharpness of the pressure peaks and the length of the pad. The B-shape has long, smeared pressure peaks under the anterior and rear parts skis, evenly distributes the weight of the skier. This is good for frost and soft skiing. The C-shaped one has sharp pressure peaks, which reduces the phenomenon of “suction” in wet conditions, convenient on hard ski tracks.
Skis with a combined BC pattern are common. The anterior pressure hump is sharp (C) and the posterior hump is smooth (B). There is also an A-diagram. The last is very long, the ski is like a spring, the tip and tail are very rigid. In order to make skis with different contours, the design of the ski is changed. Madshus does skis of three designs (three different diagrams): SC, R, HP. For soft, regular and hard snow, respectively.
Fisher produces skis of the 610 and 115 designs for soft and dense slopes, Atomic simply writes warm or cold (warm or cold) diagram. Not to be confused with plastic and structure! The letters on the sticker w or c - the type of diagram determined by the design of the ski (warm, cold), y or d - the type of plastic (warm, cold). For non-sports skis, warm plastic is applied to the warm structure. In the sports shop you can find ones that are cold in design, but with warm plastic, and vice versa. Those. a ski with any diagram can have warm or cold plastic (graphite content depends) and a huge variety of structures on the sliding surface. It is not surprising that professionals carry bags with 20 pairs of skis. It's also difficult for amateurs. After all, no amount of lubricant can change the design of the ski, but you want to go fast both in the cold and in the spring... Talking about the “versatility” of Fisher and the “narrow range” of Madshus are marketing tricks. More than better manufacturer masters the technology, the more “sharply” he “sharpens” his skis for specific conditions of use. You have to have a lot of skis. Different brands. Specialization of skis according to the type of diagram is a correct and inevitable process.
What is "suction"?
When you try to ski on “cold” skis in warm weather, you notice how the ski starts to slow down and sticks when accelerating. Although at the lowest speed the glide can even be ideal. This inhibits the viscosity of excess water created by friction. This is dealt with in the same way as in seaplane floats (they use redan) - by reducing the contact area. To reduce the area of contact of the joint stock with the water film, skis with a special diagram, structure, and knurling are used. The purpose of fluoride lubricants is the same, but when a lot of water is formed, the lubricant does not cope.
Structure
The structure is a three-dimensional pattern cut or extruded onto the joint venture. Depending on the properties of the snow, it is designed to drain or retain water generated by friction under the ski. In warm conditions there is a surplus of water, in frosty conditions there is a shortage. Structures can be linear or discontinuous, for example, the “intermittent herringbone” type. There are several explanations for why they work. (And they work!) According to one of the options, the structure is a drainage, with the help of which water is displaced to a less loaded place in the joint venture. The wetter the snow, the deeper and longer the drainage must be to remove water from under the pressure humps. According to another explanation, the structure is “drainage in reverse.” The snow under the furrow experiences less pressure than under a flat surface and does not melt; the water rushing along the ski runs into a snow island and breaks away from the joint. That is, the furrows are not conductors of water, but vice versa. I think that both options correctly explain the operation of different types of structures (linear and intermittent) for different weather conditions.
The colder and drier the weather, the shallower the drainage. There are extruding knurls for applying a frosty structure with rollers that form almost transverse dents on the joint (herringbone) without any longitudinal grooves at all. The opposite is also true. On water, the Super Riller from SWIX is often used, which cuts wide linear furrows on the SP. Even the small amount of lint that is formed does not interfere with (help?) improve gliding.
Please note that the structure does not eliminate the need for a special diagram. The possibilities of the structure are limited.
I've heard many times that cold skis went for warmth, and warm skis for frost. There is nothing surprising about this. This once again proves that the shape of a ski is more significant for gliding than the type of plastic and structure. Atomic's warm skis have sharp, short contact zones with the snow, which helps on hard skiing. Hard ski track - there hasn't been any snowfall for a long time, the ski track has been rolled up. But when it’s cold, precipitation is least likely. So the warm ski rolls on the hard frosty snow. Cold skis distribute pressure more evenly across the snow, which sometimes allows you to avoid sinking on a broken track in fresh snow. When it's warm, precipitation is more likely than when it's cold. That's right, when choosing skis you need to look at the density of the track before the temperature. At Fisher, you should not rely on the plus - cold inscriptions at all. The inscriptions indicate secondary parameters! Marking the structure on the tip of the ski is necessary and it is this that has the greatest relation to gliding! In shop skis, plus - cold is a type of plastic and structure and says nothing about the design. One Rossignol divides its skis depending on the density of the skiing into S1 and S2 types into dense and soft tracks. (the type of plastic is the same!) All professional skis have a distribution by design.
What are rolling skis?
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The ones that go the farthest down the hill? Or those that are easier to roll uphill? There is a contradiction between sliding skis down the mountain and working the skis uphill, when the weight of the entire body is transferred to one ski. In both cases, the ski profile must match the track/weather, despite the very different load (as well as snow density and speed). On the descent, the weight is distributed over two skis; excessive rigidity is harmful. During the climb, each ski must support the weight of the entire body. Yes, plus the force of the foot push. Here only a compromise is possible; it is impossible to fully satisfy both requirements, although there are attempts. Fisher makes skis with very low initial flex. As compression increases, the rigidity increases sharply; we rest against a non-bending block. It cannot be pushed through by either ½ or the full weight of the skier. And often nothing at all! The skis behave like boards, but are easy to fit because they cover a wide range of weights. Skis go under almost everyone. But not in the best way. After all, the block should touch the snow at least when pushing with your foot. They are trying to make such skis in a sports workshop. Based on the barcode of each ski, you can find out its hardness in kilograms! This does not mean that they are suitable for all skiers with this weight and for all conditions. There are also preferences in technology, there is a specialization of skis according to the conditions of use. The amateur proportion between ski stiffness and skier weight is 0.9-1.0. For professionals it can be 1.1 (For pros, this hard pair is far from the only one). In any case, the coefficient depends not so much on the level of training of the athlete, but on the density of the route and its relief. There is no point in choosing hard skis for amateur skiing. (There is an exception - spring racing on coarse snow.) But too soft skis will not allow you to easily roll into climbs. Fisher is the best brand for the amateur who can only afford one pair of skis and chooses it without equipment, by feel. The Fisher PLUS 610 design with NIS has been a best seller in recent seasons. Many people prefer the old RCS to the new RCS Carbonlite. For the Atomic Worldcup, the cold design is recommended as the only pair, as the most universal.
How many skis should an amateur skier taking part in competitions have?
If your competitions take place in one region, then you need skis with the following qualities:
- “Asphalt” skis for low snow conditions. As a rule, former combatants, honored ones.
- “Medium frost”, -1° -10°, soft track. B-plot.
- “Warm” for hard snow. The choice between super-stiff skis with a BC-pattern and standard (your weight) skis with a C-pattern. In both cases, fitted skis are better. SP with fine structure. With additional knurling they are useful for water and coarse-grained snow, without it - for very dense, rolled-up “concrete” ski tracks, frost.
- “Frosty”, colder than -12°, on a prepared ski track of medium density, without loose snow and “concrete”. Such skis must be carefully selected for the weight of the skier. After all, if for “warm” skis a change in load leads to a change in the position of short pressure humps, and may not worsen the glide at all, then for “frosty” skis the shape of the humps can be distorted, which, in fact, makes the skis frosty. It is always more difficult to obtain a diagram with flat, uniform humps than with sharp ones.
Point 2 is most in demand for amateurs, and it is advisable to duplicate it with exactly the same pair for testing lubricants. Total: 5 pairs, 3 of them combat. You won't be able to save on quantity, but you can save on money. When purchasing TOP skis from collections of previous seasons, we get savings of up to 50% without loss beneficial properties. The plot of the old model may be better than the new one. Even extra grams of weight will not overshadow the pleasure of good performance and excellent gliding of skis that suit the weather. You can make it a rule every year to buy a pair of last year's skis for the weather in which you skied poorly last season. It happens that a model of such and such year is unsuccessful; the company changed technology, but did not fully master it. This was the case when Fisher switched to the CAP design. Everything is already known about last year’s skis: a successful or unsuccessful model!
And of course, success is not measured by the number of medals. Only amateur reviews! The failure of your favorite company is a good reason to try other skis. There is no need to be afraid that a stale pair is obviously unsuccessful - if the store does not use complex measuring devices, then the percentage of winnings in the lottery where rolling skis are played out does not fall over time. After all, it’s difficult to understand the character of a ski without testing it on snow. In this regard, the emergence of the NIS system and factory filling of joint ventures with paraffin plays against amateurs. You can run into professional rejection of skis that look like brand new, but have already been tested on the ski track, especially since someone’s sports season may begin earlier than yours.
The diagram of a ski is how the ski distributes the weight of the skier model onto the snow model (solid base). The most obvious characteristic of a ski that determines gliding in different conditions. There is a B-shaped diagram, typical for frosty skis, and there is a C-shaped diagram for warm weather. Mentally put the letters B and C on their side and you will understand what we are talking about. The difference is in the sharpness of the pressure peaks and the length of the pad. The B-pattern has long, smeared pressure peaks under the front and rear of the ski, evenly distributing the skier's weight. This is good for frost and soft skiing. The C-shaped one has sharp pressure peaks, which reduces the phenomenon of “suction” in wet conditions, convenient on hard ski tracks.
Skis with a combined BC pattern are common. The anterior pressure hump is sharp (C) and the posterior hump is smooth (B). There is also an A-diagram. The last is very long, the ski is like a spring, the tip and tail are very rigid. In order to make skis with different contours, the design of the ski is changed. Madshus makes skis of three designs (three different diagrams): SC, R, HP. For soft, regular and hard snow, respectively.
Fisher produces skis of the 610 and 115 designs for soft and dense slopes, Atomic simply writes warm or cold (warm or cold) diagram. Not to be confused with plastic and structure! The letters on the sticker w or c - the type of diagram determined by the design of the ski (warm, cold), y or d - the type of plastic (warm, cold). For non-sports skis, warm plastic is applied to the warm structure. In the sports shop you can find ones that are cold in design, but with warm plastic, and vice versa. Those. a ski with any diagram can have warm or cold plastic (graphite content depends) and a huge variety of structures on the sliding surface. It is not surprising that professionals carry bags with 20 pairs of skis. It's also difficult for amateurs. After all, no amount of lubricant can change the design of the ski, but you want to go fast both in the cold and in the spring... Talking about the “versatility” of Fisher and the “narrow range” of Madshus are marketing tricks. Moreover, the better the manufacturer masters the technology, the more “sharply” he “sharpens” his skis for specific application conditions. You have to have a lot of skis. Different brands. Specialization of skis according to the type of diagram is a correct and inevitable process.
What is "suction"?
When you try to ski on “cold” skis in warm weather, you notice how the ski starts to slow down and sticks when accelerating. Although at the lowest speed the glide can even be ideal. This inhibits the viscosity of excess water created by friction. This is dealt with in the same way as in seaplane floats (they use redan) - by reducing the contact area. To reduce the area of contact of the joint stock with the water film, skis with a special diagram, structure, and knurling are used. The purpose of fluoride lubricants is the same, but when a lot of water is formed, the lubricant does not cope.
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