To easily select a weather-appropriate holding ointment, you need to understand the basics of the collection of ointments, study the main types of snow and its behavior at different temperatures. In the production of modern holding ointments, the best raw materials and formulas are used, and they are prepared using special machines. All this simplifies the process of selecting ointments. When the skier uses his full weight during the take-off phase of the classic stroke, the ski block is pressed into the snow, which grabs the wax and allows for an effective take-off and transition into the gliding phase.
The hardness of snow crystals depends on the temperature; the colder the snow crystals, the harder the ointment must be chosen so that in the repulsion phase the hardness of the ointment corresponds to the hardness of the snow. As the temperature increases, the snow transforms (old snow), the snow crystals become rounded, so you need to choose a softer ointment. When the snow goes through several cycles of refreezing (melts and freezes again), its crystals have a very hard round structure (hard coarse-grained snow), then it’s time to use klister - a liquid holding ointment, which allows the rounded snow crystals to grab and push off the skier. When skiing with a classic stroke on coarse-grained snow, it is the klister that allows you to push off effectively and then glide easily. Problems with selecting an ointment begin at temperatures around zero and fresh snow. The combination of sharp, new crystals of fresh snow and relatively high temperature increases friction during the sliding phase. During friction, heat is released, new snow melts, and a thin film of water is formed, which freezes in a soft ointment. As a result, the skis begin to slip, which interferes with further movement. Ways to avoid such a situation will be discussed further.
A common mistake Swix service reps often encounter is that riders select a wax that is too cold, or too harsh, for the current conditions. The second problem is that the block for holding liquid ointments is chosen shorter than it should be. Racers often pay too much attention to gliding, which is why they choose colder ointments and apply shorter pad lengths. All this leads to ski slipping, which means that the skier loses more energy and time than he saves on sections when moving down the mountain
You can get additional information on how to choose the appropriate ointment using the ointment calculator on the website swixsport.com
Preparing the holding area (pads)
Before applying the holding ointment, the block must be sanded so that the ointment is then absorbed into the base. This does not need to be done every time you apply the ointment - it is enough to clean the block from time to time. Using #100 grit sandpaper, go over the entire length of the block several times in both directions and lift the pile
Tip: to protect the sliding zones from damage by sandpaper, apply a special tape to protect the surface at the beginning of the sliding zone (at the joints with the holding zone).
Processing ointments with a stopper
It is necessary to properly process the ointment with a cork: each layer of ointment must be leveled and polished. Unevenly applied ointment reduces the contact of the pad with the snow, which means worse repulsion. If the ointment is applied correctly using a cork, you can lubricate the skis directly on the ski track with a softer ointment on top of the previously applied one. Pay attention to the groove - the holding ointment there needs to be processed carefully.
Layers of holding ointment
When applying holding ointments, it is recommended to apply several thin layers, each of which is thoroughly rubbed with a stopper. Racers typically use 7-8 layers. The first layer should cover the entire holding area. The holding zone starts from the heel of the fastenings and goes forward 60-65 cm. The last layer should be the shortest and located exactly under the sole of the boot. Thus, the ointment is applied in the form of a pyramid.
Tip: Softer, warmer ointments are easier to apply in several layers if they are cooled first.
Application of holding ointments - Primer
The primer ointment is applied to increase the adhesion of the holding ointment to the sliding surface. Today, dirt is used more and more often in racing. Modern soil does not have a negative effect on sliding, which is why riders use it in races with a distance of more than 10 km.
In very aggressive snow conditions we recommend using VG35 primer as the first coat. For less aggressive snow conditions (cold, fine-grained snow), VG30 soil is used. Usually one thin layer is applied, but if the snow is abrasive and wears off the ointment, then the layer is made thicker. After applying the ointment, you need to warm it up with an iron (iron temperature is about 110 C). If ski processing takes place outdoors, where there is no source of electricity, use a special iron that is heated with a blowtorch. If there is no possibility of heat treatment of the ointment at all, then it is necessary to carefully rub in each layer using a cork - this will improve the adhesion of the ointment to the material of the sliding surface.
V40 is often used as an addition to the base layer. Apply a thin layer of ointment, go over quickly with an iron to lubricate, allow the ointment to cool and rub it in. Blue Extra ointment has a long history, tested in competitions, so many racers cannot imagine treating skis without it. Primer ointments VG35 and VG30 are the ideal base layer for all holding ointments.
How to choose the right holding ointment for current conditions:
First you need to test your skis. You can apply a layer of colder or warmer ointment on top of the originally selected ointment. You should not waste time and effort on tests; the ointment needs time to adapt to the snow conditions. Usually at first (several hundred meters) the ointment slips, this is normal. If the initially chosen ointment works well, then all that remains is to go on the ski track. Additional layers of ointment are only needed if there is a long race ahead.
A: If the skis continue to slip, there are three solutions:
1. Apply several more layers of the same ointment. It may be necessary to extend the pad area forward. A thicker layer of wax will allow the snow to grab onto the wax and give the skier an effective push-off. Remember that the ointment is applied in the form of a pyramid.
2. If the ointment does not provide proper repulsion (too hard, too cold), apply a softer warm ointment on top of the already applied ointment. If this helps solve the problem, apply several additional layers of warm ointment. Again, be sure to apply an additional layer to the last in the sole area of the boot.
3. If too soft (too warm) ointment was initially applied, the block may begin to freeze in conditions of new fine-grained snow. The ski will slip in turns and glide worse. If it is not immediately clear whether the ointment is freezing or not, apply a little more of the same ointment. If it is impossible to apply more ointment (it slips off), then the ointment is too soft and will freeze. In this case, you need to thoroughly rub the ointment with a stopper. Corking will remove ice and excess moisture. After removing the ice, apply several layers of cooler, firmer ointment. If this does not remove the ice, scrape off the previous ointment and apply a harder ointment, rubbing each layer with a cork. As a rule, you can leave the old soil.
Q: If your skis move slowly and you feel heavy when moving, you can do the following:
1. Remove ointment that is too soft or put a layer of harder ointment on it. It is possible that ice formed with the previous ointment (the case described in point A3) or the ointment did not effectively contact the snow. In this case, remove the old ointment and apply a cooler one.
2. Monitor the width of the block. If you apply the holding ointment at a distance greater than recommended, you may lose speed and feel the snow. Scrape off excess ointment with a scraper.
Applying a softer ointment over a harder one is not a problem. Carefully apply thin layers and rub each thoroughly with a cork, but without applying too much pressure. It is also possible to mix a colder, hard klister with a soft one. In this case, the hard klister is applied in dots over the soft one, heated together with an iron and then rubbed together with a cork. This is one way to make the soft klister harder in order to avoid freezing and increase the life of the klister.
For long races during which warming is expected, a wax appropriate to the expected temperature level is applied first, followed by a harder one to suit the temperature conditions at the start.
In conditions of high humidity, sometimes a softer ointment (next in the line) is applied than the temperature conditions require. To improve repulsion, apply more coats than usual.
In conditions of low humidity and dry, fine-grained snow, the best solution is to use a colder ointment than required and apply it in thinner layers
V and VR line holding ointments:
These ointments have a huge number of victories in their history. The main difference between the ointments of the V and VR lines is the absence of organofluorine additives. Thanks to this, it became possible to reduce the price with excellent performance characteristics. V line ointments are used in competitions as a base layer for VR ointments
V line holding ointments are traditional holding ointments intended for both amateurs and amateurs. Even though these ointments do not contain fluoride additives, they work great because... They contain fully refined petroleum components, synthetic rubber and pharmaceutical oils. V line holding ointments are often used in top category competitions, either alone or in combination with VR holding ointments.
Despite the fact that VR line keeping ointments were developed for professional racers, they are of undoubted interest for mass sports and recreation due to their excellent qualities, especially at temperatures around zero. These holding ointments are characterized by a high degree of flexibility in application, each VR ointment has two temperature areas of application, one for fresh or falling snow, characterized by sharp-angled snow crystals with a relatively high degree of penetration, and the other for old snow, with rounded crystals and low penetration power.
The formulas of VR line holding ointments are constantly being improved to improve performance characteristics.
Application of klisters:
We recommend applying the klister indoors and, if possible, at room temperature. Application of klisters under these conditions is most comfortable. Also, using a lubrication table, a ski profile, a lubrication iron and a hot hair dryer gives the best results.
Always start by applying a base klister. The use of the basic KV20 spray klister ensures excellent interaction. The basic klister spray is applied directly to the ski last.
KR20 klister is also used as a base layer. Warm up the tube with a hairdryer. Apply a thin layer of klister (string) to each side of the pad from the groove. Melt the klister with an iron at a heating temperature of 110C. The klister layer should not be in the area of the groove and edges of the skis. Then the klister must be gently rubbed with a stopper to distribute it evenly over the block. Skis must be cooled to room temperature before applying the next coat.
For the middle layer we recommend klisters KR30 and KR40. The purpose of this layer is to hold the next layers of klister and create a stable layer of ointment that will work for a long time. Warm up the tube with a hairdryer and apply the klister in the form of a fishbone pattern. Then use a special flat klister scraper from Swix to spread the ointment on both sides of the groove. The klister should be carefully leveled with your thumb or the heel of your palm, or rubbed with a cork while it is still warm. Warm up the applied layer of klister with a hairdryer. The last layer is applied klister for current conditions.
Just like solid grip ointments, this klister is applied to the entire area of the cross-country ski last. In this case, the holding zone for solid ointments should be shorter than the holding zone for klisters. It is also necessary to remember that the last layer should provide maximum hold. This layer should be much thicker than all the others. In this case, the base klister is applied in the thinnest layer.
Tip: If you need to apply several types of klisters in one layer, you can alternate each “string” in the “fishbone” using different klisters. Then gently rub with a cork to distribute evenly over the block.
How to apply solid ointment to klister
In wet snow conditions, when a klister is required, there may be areas of dry, fine-grained snow, then you need to apply a solid holding ointment over the klister. First you need to choose a suitable klister. Warm klisters (KR60, KR70 and K22n) are too soft to apply a hard ointment over them. Then you need to choose a solid holding ointment. It should be somewhat cooler than the ointment, which is used under the same conditions, if applied without a klister.
Apply a thin layer of klister indoors and heat with an iron (as described above). Cool the klister outside, and then apply a layer of solid ointment on top of the klister. Gently rub the ointment with the stopper, making sure that the klister does not protrude on top of the ointment. At temperatures around zero, it may be difficult to select an ointment, especially if the snow has not gone through the cycle of melting and re-freezing. Changes in the angle of the slope, as well as the transition from a sunlit section of the route to the shade, all affect the condition of the snow. The track may be icy, and the snow off the track or at the top of the climb may be dry and fine-grained.
In the range around zero, “silver” ointments appear in the collection. High air temperatures require a soft ointment, but it may freeze. The “silver” additive makes the ointment more resistant to ice formation. It's worse in fresh snow, when the crystals penetrate the wax and the snow begins to stick to the block until the skier ends up on top of a small hill under the block. There's definitely nothing pleasant about it.
However, a way out of such difficult conditions can be found. The main task is to remove excess moisture; to do this, you need to remove the sticking snow and rub the ointment with your hand or a cork. If you rub with a cork, then droplets of moisture (melted ice) will appear on the surface of the ointment - they need to be removed, and then apply a harder ointment. If the ointment is very frozen or a thick layer of snow has stuck, you will have to remove the ointment and coat the skis with a harder ointment. In this range, Swix offers the following silver-containing ointments VR50, VR55 and VR60, which are intended for drier conditions than the VR65 ointment and the VR70 and VR75 klisters. The last two ointments are intended for new wet snow and icy ski tracks.
In wetter conditions or when the ski track is icy, klisters must be used. If there are still sections of the route with dry snow, you need to apply a hard ointment over the klister (K21, KR50 or KR40)
Examples of combinations
Ointments from VR45 to VR60 can be applied over the universal klister K21.
VR40 or VR5S is applied over the Flexi KR50 klister.
VR40 or VR45 is usually applied over the KR40 klister.
Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that each layer of klister is thin, since several layers of klister form excess ointment on the block, which prevents good gliding.
- The lubrication process depends on what kind of skis you have: plastic or wooden. The plastic is unpretentious and has a high slip rate even without lubrication. Due to humidity, wood can swell and have a high friction index (which leads to damage to the surface on hard or hard snow).
- If you want to apply lubricant less often, then . Although the slip rate is lower, they are more unpretentious. They will appeal to those who are passionate about slow classical walking on the ski tracks.
- Using a candle for rubbing is, of course, an economical option, but it is far from the best. Candle paraffin will quickly wear off (especially on hard snow). The cheapest specialized paraffin will have a much better performance indicator.
- Fans of fast skiing need to prepare themselves for regular ski care, since high speeds can only be achieved with perfect glide. Therefore, you will have to apply a fresh coating each time.
- Masters skiing They have lubricants in their arsenal for cases of sudden weather changes to eliminate external interference in their difficult task. If a simple follower of cross-country skiing is to take part in a marathon, then the choice will also primarily depend on the condition of the snow (old or fresh), humidity, and air temperature at the time of the competition.
- Products aimed only at improving gliding are preferable for skating, and not for all other skiing enthusiasts who are more suited to the classic move.
- New ones are already waxed, but this coating is not suitable for driving. Its purpose is to protect the goods during transportation. Therefore, it is better to remove it immediately.
Types of ointments for skis
Lubrication
This type of lubrication is usually called “lazy” because it requires neither time nor effort. There are the following types of quick lubrication: aerosols, emulsions, pastes, creams. The main disadvantage is the short duration of action; after 6-10 kilometers, re-application is required. Typically, lovers of this type of lubricant use it immediately on the spot, since after application it is enough to wait two minutes and hit the road.
Professionals prefer not to use them, but have them in stock. Sudden changes in weather may require lubrication adjustments. And this can only be done locally in this way.
Paraffin
A more thorough remedy is paraffin. Its hard form gives better protection and lasts a long time.
Paraffin can be fluoride-free (CH), low-fluoride (LF) and high-fluoride (HF). The choice depends on air humidity: the higher it is, the more fluorine should be contained in the lubricant. It is sufficient to use the CH and LF markings as they provide acceptable glide. CH is a simple protection, LF is used as a base onto which weather additives such as HF can be applied if desired.
It is important that the paraffin matches the air temperature. On sale most often it comes in a set of several options with a precise indication of the temperature range used.
How to wax cross-country skis for a beginner
The main task of lubrication for classic move is to prevent slipping (rollback) back while skating and ensure easy sliding forward. This can be achieved by using two types of ointment (sliding and holding).
To prevent the ski from slipping while moving, a grip ointment is used. It should be applied to the area where the boot is located, plus 20-35 centimeters in the forward direction. The distance is usually selected individually, depending on the ratio of weight, height, leg length and skis.
It makes sense to use gliding ointments when the air temperature is above zero or there is severe frost outside. These products are used to rub the toe and heel parts of the ski.
By the way, if you are concerned about the question of plastic skis for classic skiing, then take into account the structure of the coating. Because the material used for the sole itself has good sliding properties (which is why some recommend using plastic for running loads rather than leisurely walks). It would be good if, before applying, you lightly sand the application area with fine sandpaper.
If paraffin waxes are used as a sliding lubricant, then for optimal application it is better to use a special iron (not for household use). Then the lubricant will penetrate well into the coating structure. It is necessary to take into account that even with a special iron you need to make careful, short movements.
How to remove old wax from skis
Removing old ointment at home is not a difficult process. If liquid or aerosol type lubricants were used, then wiping with a remover will be enough. Solid paraffin is removed mechanically: first with a plastic scraper, then with a brass brush. This is done in the direction from toe to heel. The recommended thickness of the scraper is 3 millimeters (then it has sufficient flexibility and will not damage the coating).
Important! Removal of old ointment must be carried out each time before applying a new one.
How to apply holding ointment correctly
First, the design features of the skis themselves are determined by the presence or absence of notches and grooves.
A notch is a certain unevenness on the sole, intended to reduce slippage. And some people think: if there is a notch, then there is no need to apply holding ointment, which is incorrect. Although this element helps to push off the snow (due to adhesion to the surface), a layer of ointment will still be useful.
The groove serves to ensure that the skis do not move apart, but can move in the chosen direction, even if there is no ski track underfoot. There is no need to apply holding ointment inside the groove, since the main emphasis when pushing off is on the edges.
Where should you apply ski wax?
The holding ointment itself is applied under the block (location of the leg) and after, at a distance of 20-30 centimeters forward in the direction of movement. Although, if there is a notch, this distance can be reduced. The area for application is selected experimentally. If the repulsion goes well, you do not experience discomfort, then everything is calculated correctly. Athletes do just that.
What you need to apply the ointment
Holding ointment is applied in small portions to a clean surface. Some people advise applying it in a “herringbone” pattern, with the tip in the direction of movement, supposedly this helps the ski keep its direction better and cling less to the snow.
After placing the ointment on the sole, rub it in an even thin layer. Wipe off the remaining residue with a dry cloth and let the ointment set, after which you can go for a ride. There is one secret here though. The kit includes two ointments: cold and warm. The latter is softer, but less tenacious. Warm can be applied over cold, so take them with you.
Pay attention! If you feel that the skis are not moving well or the repulsion is too strong, then simply apply an additional layer in the same way, which can be done on the spot.
Brushing the sliding surface
It should be noted that removing excess from the sliding surface is just as necessary as applying it. Excess paraffin does not help skis glide. Therefore, brushing has a separate role. Its task is to adjust it to the optimal sliding mode, since the surface of the skis is not perfectly smooth, but has grooves that the scraper cannot clean. A brush, preferably a specialized one, will help you deal with them. Finally, the equipment is ready, all that remains is to hit the road.
And remember winter sport- it's not only physical activity, but also getting a portion of fresh, energizing air, which is so lacking in cities. And also the opportunity to unwind with maximum health benefits!
Experienced skiers know how to properly care for their sports equipment. But not all beginners in skiing are aware that there is a special lubricant for skis that promotes their gliding and maneuverability in mountain sprints.
More recently, about 30 years ago, all types of skis were wooden. They were considered hunting equipment for long distances. To protect them from moisture and preserve appearance They used special resin, pork fat, and beeswax. It was enough to coat the bottom ski surface with resin, and simply apply paint on top.
Modern skis are made from synthetic plastic or combined with wood. or semi-plastic types do not accumulate condensation, glide better and are lighter in weight. Beginners in skiing are sure that plastic or composite skis do not require any maintenance. Indeed, such equipment does not require tarring or polishing. In specialized sports stores you can purchase ski waxes and. They need to be rubbed on the dry sliding surface of ski equipment for better glide on the snow.
Attention: New skis are made of plastic or it is recommended to wax them before going on the ski slopes.
There are several good reasons why you should lubricate your equipment:
- When snow interacts with the surface, a high coefficient of friction occurs on the surface of the plastic. The sliding side is destroyed, as if sandpaper is being passed over it.
- To show good results At competitions, athletes smear the sliding side with special waxes and paraffin ointments. Just a few seconds can play important role in the race.
- For long-term storage of equipment, lubricants are used, which provide the equipment with long-term preservation and protection from aggressive environmental influences and damage during transportation.
- If you don't lubricate ski surface, then over time dirt sticks to it, which will interfere with sliding and easy driving.
Different lubricants for different types of skis
Professional cross-country skiing uses several types of lubricants designed to various types ride.
On hold
The ointment is applied to the pads. The last is considered to be the area under the shoe and 30 cm forward. For each person, the holding area is individual, so you don’t have to adhere to clear markings. At the back, such lubricant should reach a maximum of the shoe heel. If the skis begin to slide poorly, it is recommended to reduce the block. After perfect length pad will be identified and can be marked with a marker.
Sliding
Such ointments can be sold in the form of aerosol sprays. They are quite easy to use for fast riding beginners who are just learning how to use paraffin. The aerosol is not intended for professional skiers, but rather for those who have chosen skiing as a form of fitness. The sliding surface is rubbed with this ointment, then it is rubbed and polished. This product has one drawback - it does not last long (about 15 km), depending on the hardness of the snow.
For clutch
Suitable for running, skating and... The lubricant is useful in wet, wet snow, and it acts as an accelerator. When equipment is on the move, this protective coating prevents slipping. It is recommended to apply lubricant from the heel 80 cm forward to the toe. This type of lubricant is suitable for sliding surfaces made of wood; it is considered the best option.
Adhesion ointment has a sticky structure and is applied in several stages. Each layer must be leveled with a special synthetic cork. After using the equipment, the grease is removed with a plastic scraper or using a solvent.
For connoisseurs skiing and long ski runs, a wide range of lubricants are sold. Beginners can choose inexpensive formulations, and professionals can choose branded paraffins. Lubricants come in two versions: sliding and grip.
Beginners can choose the following brands:
- Wisty;
- Swix;
- Briko
- MVIS Marathon.
Each of these products is color coded to indicate the temperature at which they are recommended to be used.
Classification of markings for certain temperatures:
- from 0 to - 2 - purple;
- from -2 to - 8 - blue;
- from -5 to - 12 - light green;
- from -10 to - 25 - dark green;
- from -15 to - 30 - black.
Worth knowing: When the temperature is above zero, you can use liquid textures.
Knowing the nuances of caring for skis, you can rub them with gel yourself. First, determine your riding style and take into account the material from which the skis are made. The lubricant is applied to a dry, cleaned surface at room temperature.
Basic rules for lubricating plastic skis
Solid texture ointments are applied in several layers. Each layer must be rubbed thoroughly. After application, the surface must be cooled, and the last layer can be applied directly outside.
It is recommended to test the wax before riding. If the product is not suitable and its validity period is short, it should be replaced.
And in the skating style, paraffin is applied to the back or front. The central part can be lubricated with holding agents.
Paraffin is applied in drops and smoothed with an iron. After application, it must be cooled and removed with a scraper. The final stage is surface treatment with a nylon brush.
A ski with a notch does not need to be lubricated, but if it wears off, it is still recommended to apply paraffin.
Features of impurities in paraffin lubricants
Among the large selection of lubricants, it is worth noting the two most popular types:
Wax with hydrocarbon
This composition is often found on the shelves of sports stores. It has water-repellent properties. Easy to use during hot and dry processing. Hydrocarbon lubricants are sold in universal and temperature-controlled formats.
Universal wax is suitable for any sport except competitions. Its advantages include excellent gliding and dirt repelling. But such a coating wears off very quickly and needs to be constantly renewed.
Temperature oriented waxes are often used professional athletes. This lubricant contains certain substances responsible for sliding.
Fluorocarbon wax
Such base compounds are valued for their water-repellent properties, which are responsible for the best gliding on snow. They cost more than paraffin ointments. Fluorocarbon is considered a quality lubricant that needs to be updated infrequently.
Main classification:
- low fluoride is used when snow humidity is up to 60%;
- medium fluoride is suitable for 60-80%;
- high fluoride from 80%.
How to remove wax from skis or snowboards
If the skis begin to glide poorly, then it is necessary to remove the lubricant. To make it more convenient to clean wax from equipment, you need to get a special plastic scraper or solvent.
- The ski must be secured on a special machine.
- You need to move the scraper from toe to heel, working smoothly and without changing the force when pressing.
- The edges and grooves should be carefully processed.
- The remaining paraffin is removed with a stiff brush.
- To remove dirt and remaining paraffin from equipment, a hot method is recommended. To do this you need to purchase a special iron.
- Paraffin is applied using an iron. The surface is treated with a scraper until the composition has hardened.
Why choose liquid paraffins, application
In terms of functional properties, liquid formulations are no different from solid ointments. All paraffin waxes are designed to impregnate equipment for better glide. To ensure the best effect from the treatment, thermal exposure after applying paraffin is recommended.
The use of liquid paraffins exists in two versions:
With heat treatment
As a rule, this operation occurs at home. Skis need to be prepared - they need to be cleaned and dried.
- The iron must be heated to 150°C.
- Paraffin should be smeared on the sliding side.
- Iron from toe to heel.
- Allow the equipment to dry for about 15 minutes.
- Go over the layer with a stiff brush.
Thus, the sliding surface is leveled and smoothed. Heat treatment can be repeated up to 10 times to fix microcracks with wax.
No heat treatment
If it is not possible to heat treat skis, you can use folk method lubrication without ironing. Cold lubrication must be done in a warm room.
- Wipe off dust and dirt from a dry, clean ski with a brush.
- Wipe the sliding side well and let it dry.
- Apply a thin layer of lubricant and leave it for 5 minutes.
- Rub the paraffin with a cork or sponge. Let it brew for 10 to 15 minutes.
- If a thick layer of lubricant has been applied, it must be cleaned with a brush.
Using paraffins for plastic skis
There are some valuable tips for beginners who do not know how to choose the right wax for skis made of plastic.
- It is recommended to use paraffin compounds;
- Only paraffins are used for skating equipment, because the side edges usually collide when riding;
- For long distances, it is better to take holding ointment with you. It wears off the ski very quickly, so it needs frequent updating;
- The low fluoride composition MVIS Marathon has proven itself well. The composition is easy to apply and lasts a long time.
Experienced skiers claim that for a temperature of -7°C, an ointment for -5°C may be suitable.
Conclusion
Lubricants vary, but knowing its features, you can easily select correct option. For mountain sports and professional cross-country skiing Paraffin lubricant is suitable. It will also be relevant for beginners in racing skiing.
Before starting a review of methods for preparing skis and applying grip ointments, it is necessary to get an idea of skis with notches, which can partially relieve the skier from the procedure of applying ointments.
So, should you buy knurled skis? This question cannot be given a completely unambiguous answer. Most non-professional skiers use just such skis. And it’s clear why, because with such skis you don’t need to waste time on lubricating and preparing them. Ribbed skis can be used at any time. Such skis have a huge drawback - they grip well on soft snow, but on hard snow they will not be as effective, and such skis cannot be oiled. Also, any notch, even the highest quality, worsens the sliding and rolling of the ski.
Skis without notches have to be constantly prepared, but they provide fairly comfortable skiing in all weather conditions.
Ski lubrication kit.
The minimum kit for preparing skis usually consists of two or three cans of ointment, cork rubbing and a scraper. To ski in the classic style, you need to lubricate the skis under the block with grip ointment. The block is the part of the ski that starts at the heel of the boot and extends towards the toe of the ski by 15-20 centimeters. The block is lubricated with holding ointments so that when you push off with your foot, the skis do not slide back.
Where to lubricate cross-country skiing?
For beginners, it is quite suitable, which often consists of four briquettes or jars made of foil or plastic. In addition to ointments, you will need a synthetic rubbing plug. Having smeared the middle part of the ski with ointment, you need to rub it. After this you should have an even shiny layer. If you can't make an even layer, don't bother with it for long. It is enough to simply smooth the ointment by rubbing.
Synthetic rubbing stopper for ointments.
When you go skiing, it is advisable to take with you a “warmer” and a “cooler” ointment compared to the one you applied to your skis.
Easy application method ski wax.
The picture on the far left shows sanding the surface - this needs to be done infrequently.
Cases of “missing the right ointment”:
1)The skis don't hold up. This problem can be eliminated by applying a warmer ointment to the block. After application, you need to rub it with a rubbing stopper. You will spend only a few minutes on this procedure, and you will be able to continue riding comfortably.
2)The skis are slowing down. Skis may not ride well or become covered in snow or ice under the pad due to wax applied that is too warm for the weather. The accumulation of snow under the block is called “sludge”, ice - icing. It will take a little longer to resolve this issue. First, you need to remove the ice or snow with a scraper or improvised means. After this, you should rub the pad with a glove, removing any remaining snow and moisture. Then rub with a stopper, drying the ointment. You need to rub more intensively than you rub the ointment indoors. When the ointment is sufficiently dry and warm, it is time to apply a cooler ointment. This simple trick usually fixes this problem.
How to wax skis at -5 degrees?
Let's say it's -5 degrees outside, and your set of ointments consists of five briquettes (according to the number of temperature ranges). Most the right decision will apply blue ointment (-2 -8). But don’t forget that when you go riding, you need to take two more ointments with you. If the weather changes, you can adjust the ski lubrication for comfortable skiing. Returning from a walk, you should remove the old ointment with a scraper (or improvised materials). After this, new ointment can be applied to the remains of the old ointment. If you want to clean your skis well, you can wash off the old gasoline ointment using a piece of cotton wool. If funds allow, you can purchase.
Set of liquid ointments.
In cases where there is still a lot of snow, but the air temperature is above zero, it is best to use universal ones. However, to remove them you will need (either gasoline or kerosene). You will have to tinker with liquid ointments a little longer, but you can ensure comfortable skiing on the spring ski slopes.
Applying klister to cross-country skis.
Two tubes of ointment will be enough for you - for positive temperatures and for zero and slight minus temperatures.
Klister should be applied indoors. You need to squeeze it out in greasy drops onto the ski block, and then rub them with a scraper.
You need to tinker with such ointments a little more because the consistency of the klisters is close to the consistency of condensed milk, which means they easily stain clothes and hands. Therefore, after skiing, you need to immediately clean the skis from the ointment with a scraper and wash. You can also put your skis in a case after skiing and clean them at home. The need to clean skis after skiing is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments.
Express ointments.
So-called ointments in aerosol cans are now gaining great popularity. It has become much easier to apply such ointments. The fact is that it is enough to simply spray such ointment on the specified area of the sliding surface of the ski and after 5 minutes you can get on the ski track. This express ointment does not need to be rubbed with a cork - the ointment is spread in an even layer over the entire area and is almost immediately ready for use. But during initial use, you need to roughen the ski under the pad using fine sandpaper - this way the ointment will adhere better to the surface.
Economy sets.
Many manufacturers produce economy packages for lubricating skis. They include two or three jars of solid ointment and a rubbing stopper. Sometimes several tubes of liquid ointment and a scraper are added to this kit. It happens that these sets come in a convenient belt bag. There are kits that include everything listed plus a can of cleaner. This is very good option, since such a set has everything you need and nothing extra.
Paraffins.
Economical ski kit. (ointments for different temperatures, scraper and stopper)
Do not apply paraffin touring skis. The plastic surface glides well in any weather. For walking, this glide will be enough for you. The surface of the ski above and below the pad does not need to be treated with anything. But if you are going to participate in competitions, then firstly you need more expensive skis and secondly you will certainly have to do it in more detail, and for this you need to purchase a whole set of additional equipment.
The most popular is skiing. To avoid problems while skiing and to make the movement comfortable, you need to take care of the equipment in advance. There are several options for special ski lubricants that need to be selected individually.
Why lubricate your skis?
This question arises among beginner skiers, since many consider this procedure unnecessary. While riding, a frictional force is created, which depends on the quality of the equipment and the condition of the snow. To reduce it, lubrication is carried out. There is another reason why to lubricate wooden skis and equipment made of other materials, so the use of ointment prevents slipping back during the push. Thanks to the application special means The ski sticks well to the snow with its middle part. With constant use of lubricants, the service life of equipment can be extended.
Which skis don't need lubrication?
There are different opinions regarding whether preparing equipment is mandatory. If we turn to the competent opinion of specialists, they, discussing whether it is necessary to lubricate skis, say that if you want to enjoy perfect gliding, then it is recommended to carry out a simple lubrication procedure before each walk. In addition, this will allow you to preserve the equipment for a long time.
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How can you lubricate skis at home?
In stores and other points of sale you can find many different products designed for ski fans. If a person does not plan to engage in it seriously, then there will be no need to spend money on expensive formulations presented in the form of aerosols or branded paraffins. For those who are interested in how to lubricate their skis for better glide, a wide range of different ointments are offered.
Such products are presented in two types: for better glide and grip. Beginning athletes can use universal kits from well-known brands: Visti, Swix or Briko. All products are color coded according to the temperature at which they must be used. If the temperature is above zero, then liquid formulations are used. For negative values, the following classification applies:
- 0 to -2 – purple color;
- -2 to -8 – blue;
- -5 to -12 – light green;
- -10 to -25 – dark green;
- -15 to -30 – black.
When figuring out how to lubricate skis, you need to pay attention to common paraffins, which, according to their properties, are divided into options for sliding and securing. It is worth knowing how to lubricate your skis so that the snow does not stick in the absence of other means, you can use wax and paraffin from candles, but medical grade is better. There is a widespread belief among people that you can use soap, but in reality it will not do any good.
How to lubricate skis at home?
To care for your own equipment, you don’t need to turn to specialists, because, knowing some of the subtleties, you can carry out all the procedures yourself at home. For those interested in how to properly lubricate skis, you should know that it is important to consider not only the material from which the equipment is made, but also the style of intended riding.
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How to lubricate plastic skis?
If such equipment was purchased, then it is necessary to apply lubricant to a clean and dry surface at room temperature. When understanding this, it is worth considering the basic rules:
- When using a solid ointment, apply it in several layers, rubbing each of them. After this, leave everything to cool and apply the final layer outdoors.
- It is recommended to carry out the test after walking a couple of kilometers, and if necessary, the product should be changed. Those who are interested in why plastic skis need to be lubricated should know that without this, the glide will not be as good.
- For classic skating, it is customary to apply paraffin or gliding ointments, but only to the back or front, but the central area is lubricated with holding agents.
- When using paraffin, it is applied in drops, leveling them with an iron. After this, it is cooled and removed with a scraper. Finally, treatment is carried out with a nylon brush.
- There is another important topic - how to lubricate plastic skis with notches. Such equipment does not require lubrication, but over time the notches wear off and then paraffin should be applied.
How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis?
This type of equipment is made of wood, but a plastic plate is applied on top of the sliding surface, which protects against wear. In operation it is the same as for products made of plastic. For those who want to know how to lubricate skis so that there is no kickback, then you should use the recommendations described above for the plastic version.
How to properly lubricate wooden skis?
If you have equipment made of wood, you cannot do without lubricating it, which is applied to a dry and clean surface. First you need to carry out priming, for which paraffin is used and it is better to take a candle-tablet. You need to rub harder, and then run a hot iron on top. Remove any excess that is not absorbed. This procedure should be carried out before each trip to the snow. Instructions on how to wax skis are as follows:
- Lay the equipment downside down on a flat surface and clean them with a rag.
- Hold the heated iron 2.5 cm above the skis and start processing from the edge. Apply a little wax to the iron itself until it melts and drips. Walk it over the entire surface.
- At the bottom, perform back-and-forth movements with light pressure. The resulting layer of wax should harden, and then, using a scraper, remove it, moving away from highest point to the bottom.
- An important step in the instructions on how to lubricate wooden skis is to treat the entire surface with a special brush, making only translational movements and applying slight pressure on the tool.
- Skis should be taken out into the cold for several hours, and then left overnight at room temperature.
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How to lubricate combination skis?
Some manufacturers have created special combination equipment that is suitable for both classic and free style. It is worth noting that you can find them on the market less and less often. To choose an easy way to lubricate your skis, you need to consider what running style will be used in a particular case. Processing schemes will be described below.
How to properly lubricate cross-country skis?
For amateur skiing, you can simply use special ointments that are selected depending on weather conditions. They should be 2-3 degrees higher than the outside temperature. Lubricate the pad area with ointment, applying 2-3 layers, rubbing each layer with light movements. Finally, it is recommended to leave the equipment for 10-15 minutes. cool down. After riding, using a scraper and rinsing, the remaining product must be removed. The diagram on how to lubricate cross-country skis with paraffin is more complex.
- First they need to be secured to a table or machine. At the first stage, the process of “hot” cleaning is carried out.
- Using an iron heated to the minimum melting temperature of paraffin, smooth out the melted lubricant. It is important to avoid delays.
- Without letting the paraffin harden, clean it using a scraper and a stiff brush. The final layer should be 0.5-1 mm.
- After this, paraffin is applied taking into account weather conditions. The procedure is similar to the steps described above, and after removing the residue, the skis should cool for half an hour.
- Using a scraper or nylon brush, remove remaining paraffin, bringing the surface to a shine.
How to lubricate skis for classic skiing?
Fans of this kind of skating should use slip and grip ointments. The first is usually applied to the sliding surface, and the second to the last (the area in the middle, which is determined from the heel of the shoe plus 15-20 cm). For those interested in how to lubricate skis, you should know the following information:
- At the first stages of treatment, cleaning is carried out, and then a gliding ointment is applied.
- After this, treat the block with a holder ointment, which must be selected based on the temperature and humidity of the snow.
- If it’s warm, then use liquid products, and if it’s cold, then use solid ones. In the second case, a grinding plug is used.
- It is important to consider that grip and glide ointments should not be mixed.
- After applying the first layer, the product must be given time to set, and only then re-lubrication is carried out.
- The preparation is completed by polishing with a nylon brush.
- Another important point is how to lubricate skis with paraffin; it is applied only to the ends of the equipment.
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How to lubricate skating skis?
Processing equipment for such riding is simpler, since only gliding ointments are used. Not for professionals, one layer of ointment, selected according to air temperature, will be enough. As in the previously described treatment schemes, the surface is cleaned. After this, you can proceed to the instructions, which concern how to properly lubricate skis at home:
- First, heat the iron to the temperature indicated on the paraffin wax.
- Place the block on the surface of the iron and move it so that the drops of paraffin are evenly distributed.
- After this, run the iron from heel to toe to completely melt the wax. A uniform shine will indicate that everything was done correctly.
- An important step in the instructions regarding how to lubricate skis with paraffin at home is to remove excess with a scraper after the layer has hardened. Move against the direction of the ride. Finish the procedure with polishing.
How to lubricate skis?
Before going out into the snow, it is necessary to hot-treat the equipment, which will help fill the pores. The procedure for lubricating skis is similar to the options described above. First, dirt and existing unevenness are removed. Be sure to lubricate everything with a degreasing compound. On next stage apply the blue ointment hot, and then, after it hardens, remove excess with a scraper. You can also use liquid ointments that are spread with a sponge.