All cyclists, sooner or later, are faced with the need to remove and then install a chain on a bicycle that has a gear selection function. This procedure is necessary for periodic cleaning and lubrication of the chain, repair work related to the rear wheel, or for directly replacing the chain itself when it has exhausted its service life. Despite the fact that this operation is relatively simple, novice cyclists may have a number of questions when performing it.
Since the chain has already been removed from the bicycle, then, most likely, you already know what type of chain the bicycle is equipped with - locking or solid chains, and also have necessary tool, namely a special squeezer for working with solid type chains.
How to put a chain on a speed bike
A high-speed bicycle, unlike a singlespeed, requires a slightly different algorithm of actions.
After installing the chain on your speed bike, you need to check that it is installed correctly. To do this, you need to spin the pedals and try to switch forward and reverse gears. If there are no jams or extraneous sounds, then the chain is installed correctly. How often should the chain be cleaned and lubricated?
It is recommended to clean the chain by removing it from the bicycle and lubricate it approximately every 100-150 km. At the same time, it should be noted that this recommendation is valid only if various types of lubricants are used correctly in accordance with weather conditions. If for some reason you apply a wet weather lubricant and ride your bike in dry weather, there is a high chance that it will become contaminated with dust much faster.
It should also be noted that there are special devices that allow you to clean the chain without removing it from the bicycle.
When the chain needs replacing
To determine the degree of chain wear, you need to use a caliper to measure the distance between the 24 pins (axes) of the chain. The permissible distance value ranges from 304.8 to 306.4 mm. If the distance exceeds the upper limit, the chain must be replaced.
For more even wear on the bicycle transmission, experienced cyclists advise having a set of three chains and periodically alternating them while working on your bicycle.
At the end of the article, we bring to your attention a video that demonstrates the entire process of installing a chain on a high-speed bicycle.
The popularity of two-wheeled environmentally friendly transport is beyond doubt. Bicycles with speeds have become especially popular. But you get pleasure from riding if the bike rolls easily, without making any extraneous sounds. Therefore, the question of how to set the speed on a bicycle correctly is relevant for many cyclists.
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After all, it is the inability to switch and configure them that leads to the creation emergency situations on the roads and getting injured. Buying two wheeler in the store, you can ask the seller for help, who will adjust the speeds, making your driving safe.
If you need to do the setup yourself, you need to read the instructions, which can be easily found on the Internet by entering a specific bicycle model in the search bar.
The cyclist changes the speed depending on the situation, so the coin, the signal from which goes to the speed switch, which transfers the chain to the rear sprocket of the bicycle, must be within his reach, i.e. on the frame or steering wheel.
There are two shifters on the bike, one mounted at the front and one at the rear. Their task is also to maintain optimal chain tension. The switch resembles a parallelogram with springs and rollers that serve as guides for the chain.
It is mounted on the bicycle frame, and is held in place by a device called a “cock” - a metal holder that prevents damage to the derailleur.
The cassette or rear set of bicycle transmission, which consists of gears of different diameters installed on the rear wheel, is directly involved in the selection of gears.
There is also a front transmission set, also consisting of gears that differ in diameter. It is attached with connecting rods that hold the pedals necessary to drive the transmission on the bicycle axle (in the front of the frame).
When should you adjust the speeds?
There are three such cases:
- if the cable is stretched or torn, the transmission of commands from the coin is disrupted and the need for adjustment arises;
- wear of the return spring located on the cassette leads to the functions not being performed fully (failure when switching speed, etc.);
- deformation of the “rooster” or switch that occurs during aggressive driving.
Troubleshooting
In order for the switching of bicycle speeds to always be effective, the switch and cable, on which the operation of the latter depends, must be in good condition.
You need to tighten the cable using the drum located on the coin. For the cable to work properly, it needs to be lubricated periodically. The chain and gears also need to be lubricated to prevent noise while riding the bike, allowing for easy shifting and reducing friction.
The condition of the “rooster” can be determined visually or using a special device. It can be easily repaired or replaced by checking whether the switch, whose weakest point is considered to be a parallelogram, is not deformed.
During use of the bicycle, the screw that regulates the chain tension may fail.
What tools are needed to adjust bike speeds?
Usually all of them come with the bike: pliers, a screwdriver, a set of hex keys or open-end wrenches.
What do you need to know about setup?
Setting the speed on a bicycle begins with adjusting the height and angle of the front derailleur, which should not touch the gears, nor should it be far from them. It is correctly secured if it is 3 millimeters above the largest gear. Adjusting the angle means that the switch must be set parallel to the rotation of the wheels.
To adjust gear shifting, use the following bolts:
Having placed the chain in the extreme left position, disconnect the cable by unscrewing the nut or bolt that holds it. After this, they proceed to adjusting the gears, ensuring that they are on the same straight line, for which they tighten the bolt (marked “High” or “H”) indicated in the picture. Having completed the adjustment, re-tighten the fixing cable with the screw.
For further adjustment, place the chain in the extreme right position, i.e. to the largest one at the back and to the smallest sprocket at the front). The gears are adjusted with the “Low” or “L” bolt until they are in line.
That is, at the first stage they make adjustments maximum speed, using the screw marked “H” and the smallest gear, trying to place the wheel and switch roller in parallel.
In the next step, we configure the largest gear corresponding to the lowest speed. To do this, tighten the screw on the switch, marked with the letter “L,” again trying to position the roller and this wheel parallel.
Then you need to set the switch lever to the position that will correspond to the highest speed.
Next, we adjust the rear gear derailleur, for which we install a chain on the small gear and the largest rear one. After pedaling backwards, adjusting the chain tension with a screw, bring the upper roller (as close as possible) to the gear wheel. This is necessary to ensure smooth gear shifting.
Once the front switch is correctly installed, you can continue with the setup. Now we put it on the large rear sprocket and the small front one.
Achieve a distance of 1 mm between the frame and the chain. To do this, first loosen the control cable for adjusting screw L, then fix it with a screw.
Finally, we move on to fine tuning, moving the chain to the middle position on both sprockets. Use the screw highlighted in the photo. Both gears must be in the same plane.
Important: When the stars are aligned in one line, a deviation of several millimeters is allowed. But because of this, gear shifts worse. A test run will help identify all the shortcomings.
How to set up front gear shifting correctly?
The adjustment is carried out in a similar way to adjusting the rear shift using a metal limiter and two bolts shown in the photo below.
The final gear adjustment is carried out on the front derailleur, when the chain is on the large gear in front, and on the small one in the back. This operation is carried out with screw H until a distance of 1 mm is achieved between the chain and the frame.
A test drive will tell you if the adjustment is correct.
If switching at low speed is difficult, you need to adjust the cable on the front derailleur. If the chain is difficult to move to the large wheel, adjust the cable tension on the same regulator.
How to adjust gears on a mountain bike?
The setup is carried out in five stages. If you need to adjust both switches, it is recommended to start with the rear one. First you need to make sure the cable is working properly. In the second step, inspect the chain tensioner, which must be installed strictly parallel to the cassette sprockets.
This is achieved by tensioning the switch. When the requirements are met, proceed to setting up the gears. Place a chain on the smallest sprocket and set highest speed, after which the High screw is used to ensure that the small star shows the mark of the switch roller.
At the next step, fix the lowest speed, for which, having set a higher one, turn the Low screw until the roller is flush with the large star. The chain is located on the largest sprocket. Tighten the bolt well.
If your bike has a digital display, you can adjust the cable tension while riding. Otherwise, the correctness of the adjustment performed is determined empirically by performing a test ride. If it is difficult to gain speed, the cable needs to be loosened, if it is difficult to reduce it, tighten it.
Finally, step five is to adjust the smooth gear shift. Having placed the chain on the small sprocket in front and on the large one in the back, pedal, bringing the roller and sprocket closer together. This completes the adjustment.
Video: Setting speeds on a bicycle
Bicycle chain
The chain in a bicycle is one of the key components of the transmission. It is the maintenance of the chain in ideal condition that guarantees adequate operation of the entire mechanism. When buying a bicycle, no one will choose a new chain, but over time, replacing a part that has become unusable is inevitable. How to choose the perfect chain for your bike? How many chains do you need to have on a bicycle? How to change the chain yourself correctly, so as not to contact a bicycle mechanic for every trifle? These skills and knowledge will not be superfluous.
Data boxes located in the upper left corner of the video: This block contains two white boxes with a blue line, representing very important data. In the lower window you can see the pattern of oscillation motion on the axis: the blue line indicates the pattern of forces applied to the axis.
This pattern of intense and powerful vibration is directly transferred to the tire contact patches, causing the tire contact patches to shrink and widen along the road like a periodic ball-and-socket pattern, following the same blue line pattern. The same pattern of powerful vibration is also transferred directly to the rider's bony joints, causing fatigue. During unbalanced wheel testing, we also discovered and recorded new and disturbing evidence that the bicycle industry has never seen before.
Chain: choice and proper care
For people who still remember, the sentence “choose a new chain for a bicycle” sounds somewhat wild. For some reason, the chains lasted almost longer than the bicycle itself. The answer is simple: those bicycles had only one speed, so the chain was constantly in a calm state and did not wear out as quickly as on modern bicycles. Nowadays, even the most budget iron bike is equipped with the ability to change gears, which leads to chain wear. Modern chains are undoubtedly stronger and more reliable if they are able to withstand such loads during such use.
We decided to name and terminology some of the negative results we recorded, which can be seen in this test data video, for example. Here we explain the chain of events that can be started by as little as 6 grams of unbalanced wheel weight, which most bike, wheel and tire manufacturers consider minor and harmless.
The entire wheel from the axle to the outer perimeter oscillates and produces centrifugal forces, which can, for example, be equal to 7 kg at the front wheel and 10 kg at the rear wheel - imagine sledgehammers! Now that innocent 6 grams has started several problems cascading through the bike and bike wheels.
- Then a cascade of really bad things starts to unfold.
- Now the tiny 6 grams triggered and became an uncontrollable cascade of energy.
So, it’s time to replace the chain on your own bicycle: what should you pay attention to, which chain to choose? Most popular manufacturers are considered KMC, Shimano and SRAM. In the lines of these manufacturers you can find chains of varying prices and different qualities. All these chains easily replace each other and, if the cyclist has a desire, he can sort through the chains ad infinitum until he finds the one that suits him completely.
If in doubt, put the bike on a stand, have 5 or 10 adults hang on the bike as you spin the rear wheel up to 80 km/h, and have all the adults try to stop the shaking. You will find that this is impossible, since violent shaking goes through all adults like Jello. This only happens to the rear wheel.
Imagine the front wheel doing the same thing at the same time! Dynamic Speed Balance not only eliminates all the detrimental symptoms caused by unbalanced wheels, but increases the level of efficiency, performance, control and rolling safety to new levels never thought possible by the industry. Dynamic speed balance ensures that the mass does not oscillate, so it can continue to move smoothly and quickly without interruption.
ADVICE! For a cassette with 7-8 stars, you should purchase a chain for 8 gears, for 9 – for 9, and so on.
When purchasing a chain, you should pay attention to the markings: usually companies include information about the quality of the chain in the numerical designation of the model. For example, the CN-HG53 will be much simpler than the CN-7701.
If you have determined that this is not the issue, it is time to head to your local bike shop. You may need a new chainring, new chainrings, a new cassette and new rims for the rear derailleur. It will be approximately £100 please. This is what chain wear wears out if you don't catch it early enough: it destroys the rest of the drivetrain. If you notice this early, you may want to replace just the chain.
All chains become very worn sooner or later - sooner if they don't like it. The metal of the bushings and pins wears out, causing the pins to become even more spaced apart. This is not literally stretching, but you will often hear the process referred to as stretching. As the chain lengthens, the gaps in the chain do not engage properly with the transmission teeth.
For adequate operation of the chain, it is important to be able to notice in time the moment when the chain already requires replacement or repair, but the rest of the transmission is still safe and sound. Excessively worn chain not only threatens with driving problems, but also gradually “kills” the sprockets: in this case, you will have to change not only the chain itself, but also a rather expensive mechanism - the cassette, and sometimes the system. The most accurate way to determine chain wear should not be considered mileage (sometimes 100 km of country walks on off-road and muddy roads can pass for 1000 km of quiet city bike rides), but the length of 24 links on the chain:
This is the point of no return: the entire transmission is damaged and needs to be replaced. There is a way to prevent this: measure your chain. Once the chain is 75% longer, it's time for a new one. Once it's more than 1% higher, the rest of the transmission will be worn out and will almost certainly need to be replaced too. Less than 5% wear is excellent, even with 10-speed gearboxes. More than 1% wear and it can still work fine if your bike only has one chain and one sprocket - or e.g.
Measuring wear of less than one percent may seem like the job of lab technicians. All bikes use a half inch pitch chain. This is half an inch from the center of one pin to the center of the other. The distance between two pins, that is, a complete chain link that is hinged and has both inner and outer side plates, is one inch. So 12 links are 12 inches. Place a steel ruler under the chain, with a zero under your "start" pin. The 24th pin should be at the 12" mark, assuming the chain is disassembled.
- in normal condition this figure is 304.8 mm;
- 306.5-307.5 mm is a reason to change the chain;
- 307.5-308 mm - indicates not only chain wear, but also problems with sprockets;
- More than 308 mm - serious difficulties with the chain, cassette and system condition.
Another way to “by eye” find out how worn a chain is is the following: after installing the chain on a large sprocket, you should pull it lightly with your fingers and check how many teeth are visible on the chain. If you can see two teeth on the sprocket, the chain is worn out, but is still suitable for driving, and three teeth indicate that the chain is completely worn out and needs to be replaced immediately. Also, extraneous sounds from a lubricated chain often indicate its wear.
This is a simple measuring tool with pegs to indicate 75% and 1% wear. You will hook one end of the chain and leave the other end of the chain. If it is positioned as shown in the picture, the chain is worn less than indicated on the tool. If the pin falls into the gap so that it is close to the chain, the chain will put on the specified amount - or more. If the chain is 75% worn, replace it. You should be able to continue using sprockets, cassettes and rims for some time to come.
When you measure the chain, make sure it is slightly taut. The rear derailleur will do this for you. On a bicycle with a single chain and sprocket, apply light pressure to one pedal when rear wheel is on the floor. This will stop the top travel of the chain from causing slack in the chain.
Replacing a chain on a bicycle: removing and installing correctly
Experts advise following some simple recommendations that will allow the bicycle owner to avoid possible problems with the chain:
- Do not drive in heavily skewed gears;
- done on time will help you protect it from early breakdown.
- do not use thick lubricants or WD40-type products as chain lubricants;
- use multiple replacement chains to extend their life.
The frequency with which you need to check your chain will depend on your weekly mileage, the conditions you cycle in, and how clean and well-lubricated you keep your chain. Every two weeks should be sufficient. Muddy mountain bikes will go through the chains faster than bikes that are only used on the road. If your bike has a fully enclosed chain, a protected chain can last for years.
Pick up your bike from a local bike shop or do it yourself. it's not difficult. The most important thing is to get the right one. Because the chains use the same half-inch pitch, the width and fine details vary. The 10-speed chain is thinner than the 8-speed chain and meshes with finer transmission teeth.
Chain lock.
If the chain still needs to be replaced, it is important to approach this issue competently and professionally. Before starting work, check which chain is on the bike: with a lock or not. As a rule, chains with locks are only found on children's or cheap bikes. To achieve such a design, you just need to find the lock and remove it with a simple screwdriver.
Count the sprockets on your bike's cassette. This is the whole chain you need. Otherwise, chains up to and including 8 are usually interchangeable - by speed and brand. Gates does not recommend modifying frames because doing so will void the frame manufacturer's warranty and could result in injury or death. The belt cannot be broken and reconnected, so for a standard rear triangle you will need a way to get the belt through the frame. The belts also need adjustment for installation and tension.
Thus the reason for the purpose built frame. Clean - No Grease means no greasy dirt buildup, clean hands, clothes and children. Light weight - the entire system, 2 sprockets and belt, weighs less than a regular chain. This means you don't have to re-tension the belt or replace the belt due to stretching. Consistent efficiency - The carbon drive belt provides constant efficiency throughout the life of the drive. On the contrary, the effectiveness of the chain decreases with wear and dirt.
Chain with pin.
The situation is more complicated if the bicycle has a chain without a lock, that is, with a pin. To work with it, you will definitely need a special tool - a squeezer, which will allow you to quickly and easily remove the chain without damaging the links. The sequence for removing such a chain is as follows:
The belt also requires a center distance adjustment for installation and proper tension. Methods include horizontally adjustable dropouts, eccentric bottom brackets, or eccentric hubs. Carbon drive sprockets are designed to fit many rods and hubs. The front sprockets include both 4-bolt and 5-bolt cranks.
For shared storage, Gates doesn't recommend coiling. It is best to leave the belt in its original packaging until ready to use. However, if you want to carry a spare belt, a suitable wrap is an option. Care should be taken not to damage the belt, please watch this video.
- You need to select a chain segment for disassembly (experts advise choosing different segments for each new procedure with the same chain, since disassembly loosens them).
- Insert the chain into the release device. This can be done this way: either using the seat located at the fixing screw, in which you can press in or press out the axle, or - in the second position, only the inner part of the bushing is adjusted.
- Squeeze the axle towards the strengthening screw (the squeeze screw is tightened using the handle).
IMPORTANT! During work, you should carefully monitor the absence of defects on the axle, because then it will be used in the assembly of the link.
The belt can cause interference when they are pressed against the flanges on the chains. This may be due to sprocket misalignment, wheel misalignment, or run-out in the drive caused by damaged components. Spraying water on the belt can cause the drive to stall within a few minutes, but the permanent solution is to correct the alignment or replace damaged components. Another possible source of noise is a loose front sprocket. Using thread locking on the sprocket bolts alleviates this problem.
In some cases, noise can occur when riding in muddy conditions, especially with mountain bikes, if sand and water temporarily adhere to the waistband. In most cases, simply rinsing the belt and pulleys after a ride will result in noise. If the noise persists, the solution is simple: spray the belt with water, wait until it dries, and apply a thin coat of dry silicone spray to the tooth side of the belt.
Before installing the chain The exact length must be determined for the bicycle: if the length is insufficient, the chain will not allow you to easily change gears, and if it is too long, it will dangle.
Chain installation on a bicycle - the procedure is simple and, with proper skill, is easy to perform, you just need to carefully perform the following steps:
Dry silicone dries instantly, helps drain grit, and does not affect belt durability. To correct this problem, use thread locker on the sprocket bolts. Increasing the belt tension should correct this problem. Consult your bike manufacturer's recommendations or tension information. Typically, jumping a tooth does not cause significant damage to the belt, however, strong riders who jump teeth at very high loads, may consider replacing the belt. Belt slippage with proper tension may be a symptom of belt or sprocket wear and may be a sign that one or both need to be replaced.
- We install the switches on small stars.
- We put the chain on the bicycle, taking into account the correct location of the tensioner rollers - the lower one goes around on the left, and the upper one on the right.
- After the links are aligned and secured with a screw, you can clamp the chain in the squeezer.
- Carefully press the axle in, slowly rotating the release handle: monitor the immersion level relative to the adjacent links.
- We check how the axle works - freely and without jamming, whether it protrudes.
Bicycle chain problems
One of the most common problems is chain slack. This process is due to the fact that the axles gradually wear out during movement, which leads to sagging of the chain. This process actually cannot be prevented, so it is simply necessary to remove excess links as it lengthens.
Chains are often replaced due to scratches and wear rather than actual failure. The drive seat belt does not stretch, so trouble-free operation remains unchanged throughout its service life. When the belt pulls away from the sprockets under tension, it is likely damaged and replacement is recommended. If you're on the trail or away from home, reinstalling the belt can get you back under light load. Keep in mind that if the stretch cords are damaged, the belt may not be able to handle the full load and will break if it is subjected to any significant stress.
In order to shorten the chain you will need a chain and pliers:
- Disconnect the chain and remove the squeezer.
- We determine the number of extra links (the optimal way is to pass the chain through large sprockets).
- We remove unnecessary links according to the principle of disconnecting the chain.
- We connect the chain and check its mobility.
Another difficulty is chain slipping: Depending on the severity of the problem, the cyclist may experience either minor inconvenience while riding or serious difficulties leading to possible loss of parts, injuries and accidents. Among the reasons for chain slippage are the following:
- Caliper adjustment. In middle positions this can lead to the chain jumping over the sprockets, and in extreme positions it can get jammed between the frame and the sprocket. To avoid such difficulties, it is necessary to adjust the calipers in a timely manner: in this case, do not forget about those gears that are not often used (for example, 1-1 or 3-9).
- Wear of the chain or its components. The critical mileage of a bicycle can be from 2 to 8 thousand km: when these indicators are reached, the chain begins to jump off under increased load, then more and more often. In this case, you can notice a certain looseness of the chain, as well as an uncharacteristic sharpness of the sprockets. This problem can only be solved by completely or partially replacing the damaged element.
- Presence of dirt or dirt in the chain. Particles of dirt, ice, grass or soil can cause problems with the circuit. In this case, it is easy to eliminate slippage: you just need to clean and lubricate the chain.
- The chain is twisted or broken. Twisting is an easily solvable problem that occurs when the weave fails or a jammed chain is removed. To eliminate it, you need to find the damaged link, carefully bend the chain and straighten the defect. A rupture, of course, requires more serious efforts: replacing a damaged pair of links or the entire chain.
Chain damper
Chain damper.
When the bicycle moves, which causes it to fall off. This can cause injury. Used for prevention. A number of accessories are called chain stabilizers. Typically, this is a design of two rollers and a rockring. It is placed instead of the front derailleur on the frame, protecting the sprocket and keeping the chain from flying away. Many models are made at home.
The power part that protects the front sprocket from impacts is the rockring. It partially performs the function of a dampener and is mass-produced. Made in the form of a circle, the size is larger than a star. The rockring is attached as standard, but can be used in conjunction with. The main element of “calming” is the roller that supports the chain.
Sedatives are:
- Rollerless. The chain is held in place by a frame. This is a simple option.
- With a pair of rollers - one on top, the other on bottom.
- With wide rollers - for.
Types of mounting dampers:
- ISCG - fastening with screws to the frame in three places.
- ISCG 05 is the most advanced standard.
- BB - fastening to the carriage. She pulls the sedative towards.
There is a damper on the cassette. It is mounted at the rear. It rarely occurs on professional bicycles, more often on ordinary ones. It is easy to make, but it interferes with gear shifting and wastes energy.
Device price depends on the manufacturer and the prestige of the company. It could be 1000 rubles, or maybe 5000 rubles. There are only four normal companies - Truvativ. This is a brand from SRAM, the firstborn of quality, a legitimate product. British Hope - uses the most advanced materials. Funn is a very expensive brand and is overpriced. The most popular company is Shimano. Its products are designed for Russian buyers.
Or for replacement when it is already .
How to remove a chain from a bicycle
With lock
To remove the chain you need to open the lock. There are several types of locks, but the processes for opening them are similar; to do this, you need to close the lock axes and remove the cover.
If problems arise when opening locks, you can use tools, such as special lock pliers.
Without lock
If your bicycle has a chain without a lock, then you will have to press the axle out of the chain link. This process will also need to be carried out in order to reduce the number of chain links when necessary.
To press out the chain axle you need a special tool - a chain squeezer. For this operation, you can choose any chain link, the only condition is that when pressing out again, it is better to use a new one, since after the operation the link becomes slightly looser.
Insert the chain link into the tool and secure with the screw. Please note that some chain squeezers have two seats, one space for pressing out the axle (it is located closer to the locking screw), and the second place is used only for adjusting the axle. Carefully tighten the release screw, thereby squeezing out the axle.
Do not push out the axle all the way if you plan to assemble a link with the same axle, otherwise it will be problematic to install it back!
The chain has been removed.
How to install a chain on a bicycle
Before installing the chain, you need to make sure that it is suitable for your bike. A special axle with a pointed end is usually sold complete with the chain. It serves to facilitate installation; after pressing the axle in, this end must be broken off with pliers. Also, the axle may already be in place if the chain is supplied without a special axle.
To install the chain, move the gear shifters to small sprockets. Then pass the chain through the tension frame of the derailleur, do not mix up the directions, the lower chain roller goes on the left, and the upper one on the right.
We connect the open links and install the axle. We insert the link into the chain squeezer and secure it with a fixing screw. By rotating the chain release handle, press the axle into place; it should be level with the edges of the chain. Remove the chain from the wringer and, if necessary, break off the end of the axle.
Check that this chain link bends freely; if it moves tightly, then you need to adjust the axle with a squeeze. In this case, insert the link into the second squeeze seat, then you will be able to see both ends of the axle.
The chain is installed.
On domestic road bikes of the previous generation, chains are or were made detachable; one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On modern sports and mountain biking They mainly use a one-piece bicycle chain.
And so you have a new one bicycle chain, which must be installed on your bike.
Bicycle Chain Installation
Troubleshooting
Before installing the chain, you must set the front and rear derailleurs to the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets. We put the chain on the bicycle. It is important to correctly place the chain on the tensioner rollers. The lower roller goes around the chain on the left, and the upper roller on the right.
We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axle, then insert it with its pointed end into the holes of the segment.
- We thread the chain into the squeezer (on the left in the photo). Important note - Many squeezers have two chain mountings. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing the axle. This is where the chain needs to be threaded for removal and installation. (As pictures show).
- The other seat is used only to adjust the position of the axle inside the bushing. If you try to press in the axle when the chain is threaded in this seat, you can damage the squeezer or the chain. Press the axle into the chain by rotating the release handle. We stop when the axle is almost completely immersed in the hole (compare with neighboring links). We remove the chain from the squeezer.
- If we use a replaceable axle, then break off the pointed end with pliers. We only check that the chain in the connected segment bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then check how far the ends of the axis protrude different sides chains. If necessary, the axle must be pushed forward by pressing the right side. To do this, thread the chain into another seat of the squeezer (the one that is closer to the squeezer handle). Then both ends of the axis will be visible, and its position can be easily controlled visually.
