We service Volkswagen Golf VI. We service Volkswagen Golf VI Typical problems and malfunctions

23.09.202027.05.2017

As the car moves, increased friction of the elements is observed in its units, which contributes to the generation of energy and an increase in temperature. In turn, the temperature regime in the engine and other mechanisms vehicle regulated by the cooling system. One of the most important components of this system is coolant, or antifreeze. To increase the service life of the vehicle, the refrigerant must be updated regularly

But how often should you change the coolant in a Volkswagen Golf 6? What factors indicate the need for replacement? What antifreeze is suitable for these purposes? How to properly prepare for replacing the coolant in a Volkswagen Golf 6? How is waste drained, the cooling system flushed and fresh antifreeze added in a Volkswagen Golf 6? You can find answers to these questions in the current article.

Which refrigerant is better to choose for a Volkswagen Golf?

Coolants for Volkswagen Golf 6 can be divided into 2 categories:

Original antifreeze- substances developed by the Volkswagen concern and suitable for most models of this brand;
Analog- coolants provided by other manufacturers, but suitable for a number of individual characteristics.

To replace the refrigerant in the Volkswagen Golf 6, the original technical substance is most suitable - antifreeze VAG G13. G13 coolants, moreover, are among the most environmentally friendly, so manufacturers especially insist on this choice.

If it is possible to purchase original coolant, substances marked G12 and G12+ from manufacturers FEBI, VAG, Castrol Radicool Si OAT, Frostschutzmittel A, Freecor QR, Freecor DSC, Zerex G and Glysantin G 40 are suitable for filling into the Volkswagen Golf system. To replace antifreeze in a Volkswagen Golf you will need 2 refrigerant cans of 5 liters each.

Important to consider! Under no circumstances should you mix antifreezes like G12 and G13. When switching from one type to another, the Volkswagen Golf cooling system is flushed. Refrigerants G12 and G12+ are successfully mixed.

Signs that antifreeze needs to be replaced in a Volkswagen Golf

The recommended frequency for replacing refrigerant in Volkswagen is 7 years, or 100,000 - 200,000 kilometers of active driving. However, in practice, situations arise when there is a need for premature antifreeze renewal. The need to replace the coolant in the cooling system of the Volkswagen Golf is detected by the following signs:

Changing the original color of the coolant used to a more rusty color;
The appearance of dirt and metal shavings in the refrigerant used for Volkswagen Golf;
The Volkswagen Golf engine overheats faster;
Some time after the vehicle starts moving, the radiator fan turns on;
Dirty foam forms on the expansion tank cap;
Plumes of whitish smoke are pouring out of the exhaust pipe;
The homogeneity of the coolant is lost and it becomes less fluid.

However, the cause of engine overheating can be not only low quality coolant, but also a decrease in its volume. You can check the amount of coolant in the Volkswagen Golf system using a dipstick. The meter is placed in the antifreeze, then removed to examine the measuring scale. If the level of the coolant fluctuates between MAX and MIN, then it is normal. If the antifreeze level is less than or equal to the minimum value, then additional coolant addition is necessary.

Coolant replacement process

Before proceeding with the basic procedures, the motorist should prepare. In particular, it is necessary to collect the necessary tools. List of tools To replace the coolant in a Volkswagen Golf 6, it is provided below:

Pliers and screwdrivers;
Technical keys;
Container for waste. A bucket with a capacity of 10 liters, a basin of the appropriate volume or a canister will be suitable as such a container;
A tool for filling new antifreeze, which can be a filling syringe, hose or funnel;
Rags or special towels for wiping parts;
To protect your hands - construction gloves.

Volkswagen Golf should be located on a level surface. It is preferable to use an overpass or garage pit with a heavy lift.

Important safety precautions! Before replacing the coolant in the Volkswagen Golf Plus and other models of the brand in question, it is necessary to cool the engine. The fact is that when the engine warms up to the maximum temperature, the coolant also heats up. Hot antifreeze is under high pressure. If you try to unscrew the expansion tank drain plug while the engine is running or hot, the coolant can burn the car owner’s hands. Therefore, before draining the waste, it is recommended to turn off the Volkswagen Golf engine and wait for the engine and all technical substances of the vehicle to cool completely.

First stage

Draining old coolant from the Volkswagen Golf 6 tank is done as follows:

A recycling container is placed under the drain hole of the car's expansion tank;
The drain plug of the expansion tank of the Volkswagen Golf 6 is opened;
After all the waste substance is in the waste container, the container should be moved under the cylinder block;
Residues of antifreeze are released from the cylinder block. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the bottom panel of the block, unscrew the drain plug and allow the substance to flow smoothly into the prepared container;
In the same way, the remaining coolant from the radiator is drained;
The drain plugs close.

After this procedure, you can proceed to flushing the Volkswagen Golf cooling system, or directly to filling in fresh coolant.

Second stage

Flushing the cooling system when replacing antifreeze in a Volkswagen Golf 6 is mandatory only in the following cases:

The existing coolant is replaced with an incompatible type of refrigerant;
The system is heavily clogged;
A complete system repair of the vehicle is carried out.

You can flush the Volkswagen Golf 6 cooling system yourself only in the following way:

Connect the filling hose (you can use a garden hose) to the pipes leading to the cylinder block;
Pass distilled water through the pipes;
Start the engine for 15-20 minutes;
Drain the waste and repeat the procedure several times until the drained substance becomes transparent.

It is impossible to completely flush the system with your own hands - this requires specialized equipment. If the system units are too clogged and the vehicle's drains are clogged, the car owner should contact the Station Technical Service for qualified assistance from specialist auto mechanics.

Third stage

In most cases, after draining the waste on the Golf 6, replacing the coolant is completed by adding fresh refrigerant - without the intermediate stage of flushing the OS. Before filling, it is necessary to check the tightness of all drain holes in the Volkswagen Golf system. After checking, you should fill the new coolant into the car's expansion tank.

Upon completion of filling, the expansion tank cap is tightly closed. If necessary, an additional sealing washer can be used. Then the engine starts to remove any air that has entered the system. After 15 minutes, the Volkswagen Golf 6 engine is turned off and the antifreeze level is checked. If it drops, add the missing amount of coolant.

07.10.2017

Volkswagen Golf ( Volkswagen Golf) is the most successful model of the German concern Volkswagen. This model has been on the market with an unchanged concept for more than 40 years, thanks to which it does not need further introduction. Many of us have already formed the impression that Golf is a reasonable choice and, for the city, just right. It's a pity there are no such statistics. In general, it would be interesting to count how many times when discussing a car the phrase “I’d rather buy a used Golf for that money” was uttered. Well, let’s try to figure it out now how justified such a purchase will be, and what problems you will have to face after purchasing a used Volkswagen Golf 6.

A little history:
Most Volkswagen cars are named after winds or currents, and “Golf” is no exception, this name comes from the name of a warm current - the Gulf Stream (German: Golfstrom). The first generation of the model was released back in 1974 and lasted on the market for almost 10 years, discontinued in 1983. The main purpose of the release of this model was to maintain the status of a reliable public car, as well as to replace the obsolete “Beetle” model, which at one time earned the status of a people's car. The design of the car was developed by the famous Italian designer Giorgetto Giugiaro. The car was produced in four body types - three and five-door hatchback, station wagon, sedan (later called Jetta) and convertible. The second generation of the car was produced from 1983 to 1992. In total, during this time, 6,300,987 hatchbacks and 1,708,390 sedans (Jettas) with various configurations rolled off the assembly line.
The third generation was presented at the Geneva auto show in 1991, and already in 1992 it won the title of car of the year. Starting in the spring of 1992, official deliveries of cars to the CIS countries began. This generation lasted on the market until 1997. Volkswagen Golf 4 was produced from 1997 to 2004. The model received a fully galvanized body, a stabilization system and navigation; in addition, models such as the Audi A3, and are beginning to be built on the basis of the Golf. In total, more than 4,000,000 cars were sold during the production of the model. The Golf IV sedan was created in 1998; on the European market the car was named Bora, and not Jetta IV or Vento II, as one might expect.
The fifth generation of the model was first presented at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 2003. Unlike its predecessors, the new product was built on the new Volkswagen Group A5 (PQ35) platform. Production of the car lasted until 2009. Volkswagen Golf 6 debuted in October 2008 at the Paris Auto Show. Due to the fact that the sixth Golf has a common platform with the previous generation, there is an opinion among car enthusiasts that the new product is a deep restyling of the fifth generation model, but in fact this is not the case. Volkswagen Golf 6 is made in a new way and is not a restyled version of the fifth generation. This generation lasted on the market for only 5 years, which is the shortest among all representatives of this model. The debut of the seventh generation of the car took place in the fall of 2012 at the Paris Auto Show. The car is assembled in Germany, France, the Netherlands, Great Britain, Spain, Austria, Switzerland, Finland, Japan and the USA

Problem areas and disadvantages of Volkswagen Golf 6 with mileage.

Like most modern cars, the body paint is quite delicate (water-based acrylic paints are used). After a couple of years of intensive use, the body becomes covered with scuffs, the bottom of the front doors near the front fender suffers the most. Also, the paint may wear off at the contact points between the door seals and the body and at the contact points between the fenders and bumpers. This problem is not critical and can be easily eliminated by gluing a protective film. As for the corrosion resistance of the body, in general, it is not bad, but rust appears in places where the paint is chipped over time. Therefore, in order to avoid serious problems, the condition of the body must be carefully monitored.

For cars that constantly spend the night outside, after several winters, the sills and lower edges of the doors may begin to corrode. Also, during the inspection, it is worth checking the floor members in the front and near the rear axle for corrosion. Due to the low cost of body parts, it is not always possible to identify damaged elements as a result of an accident (as a rule, the damaged part is not restored, but replaced). When inspecting, pay close attention to the size of the seams and pay attention to hidden cavities. The windshield received a lot of criticism - it is soft and quickly becomes covered with scratches. To extend the life of the glass, it is recommended to install wipers with softer rubber than the original.

With the onset of severe frosts, some vehicles experience malfunctions in the central locking system - the front doors cannot be opened using the key fob (most often the driver's door). To eliminate the defect, the lock drive needs to be replaced; in some cases, the lock had to be replaced. Another cost item may be the gas tank cap; it is quite fragile and can easily be broken off with an awkward movement of the hand. Over time, cracks appear in the hose leading to the rear washer; the presence of moisture in the rear optics will help identify the problem. With the onset of cold weather, the plastic of the radiator grille installed in the front bumper becomes very “hard”, because of this, even from a minor impact it breaks into pieces. The plastic fastenings of the bumpers are also not famous for their reliability (they break even in a minor accident). The sealant on the front glasses loses its elasticity over time and cracks, as a result of which corrosion may appear on the seams.

Power units

Available for Volkswagen Golf 6 large number gasoline and diesel power units:

Disadvantages that are common to all motors:

Poor sealing of the cooling system pipes. Most often, the disease manifests itself in the cold season; a fluid leak appears in the area of the temperature sensor. In most cases, the problem disappeared with an increase in temperature. As a result of the struggle “for environmental friendliness,” engines lost their usual warm-up at idle. You can warm up the engine for an hour, but it’s not a fact that it will warm up. A knocking and slight crackling sound on the right side of the engine compartment after starting the engine is due to poor placement of the fuel pipes. To get rid of annoying sounds, you need to install a special seal.

Atmospheric gasoline engines

The stock 1.4 engine is well known to Volkswagen fans and will be the best option if you are a calm driver and do not expect peppy dynamics from the car. The engine is reliable and will not present unpleasant surprises up to 200-250 thousand km, if you do not try to squeeze all the juices out of it (operation in the “slipper to the floor” mode significantly reduces the service life of this engine). Also, the atmospheric power unit 1.6 in volume, this engine is a little more “vigorous” than 1.4. This engine does not tolerate “bad” gasoline well; when using low-quality fuel, the engine may operate unstably, and problems with starting may also appear. If the symptoms are pronounced, you will most likely have to change the fuel injectors, since a cheaper operation - cleaning the injectors - will not cure the engine. Purchasing one injector from dealers will cost approximately $100.

Another feature characteristic of this engine is increased vibration at idle. Also, weak points include difficulties with the throttle valve (regular cleaning is required). Common problems that are typical for naturally aspirated engines are coking of piston rings, destruction of plastic pipes, increased oil consumption on cars with a mileage of more than 150,000 km (replacement of valve seals is required), oil leakage through hardened crankshaft seals. The average service life of engines before overhaul is 300-350 thousand km; with proper care, the engine can last 500,000 km.

Turbocharged power units

Turbocharged engines of the TSI family have good dynamics with fairly low fuel consumption, but not everything is so smooth with reliability. The weakest 1.2 engine has a timing chain drive that is not renowned for its reliability. Diesel rumble and increased noise during startup will indicate the need to immediately visit a service center. On most copies presented on the secondary market, the chain has been replaced with a modernized one. Also, along with the chain, the front cover of the engine was also replaced; it differs in that the lower gear has bosses that prevent the chain from slipping at the slightest loosening. Since 2011, a modernized timing belt with a completely new chain and gear design began to be installed on engines. Another common problem is the failure of the turbine electromagnetic actuator. At the same time, the turbine itself can last 120-150 thousand km.

Many owners complain about increased oil consumption on almost new cars, but there are also those who, even after 100-120 thousand km, have virtually no oil consumption. Often the cause of headaches for owners are fuel injection pumps (the pusher and roller wear out) and wear on the camshaft cam. Also, the weak point of this power unit is the direct injection fuel equipment, the problem is aggravated by the complexity of diagnostics. If you miss this disease when purchasing, you will have to pay dearly for it in the future. Among the advantages of the engine, we can note a decent piston life, reliability of the cylinder head and low fuel consumption on the highway - about 4 liters per hundred.

The 1.4 engine, like the weaker power unit, is not without problems with the timing chain, increased oil consumption and fuel equipment. In addition, there are problems with turbine reliability. The most powerful version is equipped with double supercharging - a compressor plus a turbocharger, which significantly increases the cost of repairs. To be fair, it is worth noting that on many copies the problematic part was replaced with an upgraded one under warranty. The phase regulator often bothers me, the symptoms are: in the first seconds of starting a cold engine, a strong cracking noise is heard from under the hood. Eliminating the problem does not guarantee that it will not happen again after a couple of thousand kilometers.

Also, common problems include the destruction of pistons. The reasons are the poor design of the piston rings and the pistons themselves, plus the liquid intercooler does not adequately cool the charge air due to contamination of the heat exchanger in the intake manifold (clogged with oil sludge from the ventilation system). Also, the problem can be caused by insufficient engine cooling due to failure of the electric pump (the failure is accompanied by extraneous sounds in the engine compartment, similar to the timing chain jumping, the coolant level decreases, the Check Engine lights up) or a dirty radiator. Quite rarely, but still, sensor failures and malfunctions in the engine control unit do occur. Most often, this trouble befalls owners who like to experiment with firmware.

When using low-quality fuel, the ignition coils wear out prematurely. The most powerful engine has 160 hp. There are frequent cases of failure of the crankshaft liners; due to the heavy load, they wear out quickly. To protect the engine from most troubles, change spark plugs and ignition modules in a timely manner, monitor the condition of the cooling system, clean the intercooler twice a year, monitor the condition of the timing chain and refuel only at proven gas stations.

The 1.8 engine, like the above-mentioned engines, has problems with the oil seal and the timing chain, but, unlike weaker engines, here the chain can jump when the engine is turned off. The 2.0 power unit is available in two types: the old EA113 series unit with a timing belt drive and the new EA888 with a chain. Old engines are quite reliable and free of problems with timing belts and increased oil consumption. But, the new type engines do not have the best reputation. Traditionally, for TSI series engines, there are problems with the reliability of the timing chain (on average, the chain begins to worry after 100,000 km), ignition and injection control systems. Also worth noting are oil leaks, fogging of the dampers in the intake manifold, and the higher cost of maintenance and repairs compared to less powerful engines.

Diesel

Despite the fact that diesel engines have proven themselves to be reliable units, they cannot be called problem-free. In most cases, low-quality diesel fuel becomes the culprit for costly engine repairs. Due to poor fuel, the injectors, EGR valve (sometimes the valve control electronics malfunction), fuel injection pump and particulate filter do not exhaust their service life. Replacing any of these elements is not cheap. Diesel units are equipped with a timing belt drive; the manufacturer recommends changing the belt with tensioners every 160-180 thousand km, but many owners claim that it is better to replace the belt every 120-150 thousand km. At the same time as the timing belt, it is advisable to replace the poly-V belt, since there have been cases when, after a break, it fell under the timing belt, resulting in the pistons meeting the valves.

Transmission

On the secondary market you can find Volkswagen Golf 6 with manual transmission and 6- and 7-speed DSG robotic transmission. A lot has already been said about the disadvantages of DSG, so in this article I will list only the most common ones. Short service life of the clutch and mechatronics (70-100 thousand km, when operating in a metropolis, repairs may be required much earlier). In both cases, you will have to pay more than 1000 USD for repairs. Twitching and jumps in gears are symptoms of the presence of one of the ailments. You can also note a weak differential, the failure of which often leads to the destruction of the automatic transmission. If the gearbox is not serviced in a timely manner, the wear of the satellite axle and its gears accelerates.

The mechanics are reliable, but not flawless. Among the main shortcomings, one can note premature wear of the bearings (the problem was not widespread and in most cases was corrected under warranty). Failure of the 1st and 2nd gear synchronizer clutch, this ailment is manifested by increased noise at idle, when the clutch pedal is pressed, the noise disappears (the same symptoms appear when the release bearing is faulty). Treatment is to replace the coupling. Over time, the Sachs clutch begins to “howl” (rumble) strongly in 1st gear. This problem is a feature of the part and can only be eliminated by replacing the clutch. Not often, but still, on the secondary market you can find a Volkswagen Golf 6 with all-wheel drive. All-wheel drive is implemented using a Haldex 4 electromagnetic clutch, which is installed on most crossovers and has proven itself well.

Weaknesses of the chassis of the Volkswagen Golf 6

Volkswagen Golf 6 has four versions of the suspension - standard, reinforced, sports and adaptive. Most often, cars on the market have standard independent suspension: MacPherson strut at the front, multi-link at the rear. The bushings and stabilizer struts are the first to deteriorate; on average, their service life is 50-70. Wheel bearings can last 100-130 thousand km, but there have been cases when replacing the rear bearings was required after 30,000 km. Silent blocks and ball joints last a little longer, up to 150,000 km. With careful operation, original shock absorbers last 120-150 thousand km. Rear suspension does not require investment more than once every 100,000 km, despite this, it is recommended to do diagnostics and wheel alignment once a year.

The fact is that a “dead” suspension, in most cases, does not rattle, but, on the other hand, quickly finishes off serviceable components. The steering system is reliable, except for minor electrical problems. Steering ends and rods, on average, run about 100-150 thousand km, when using wheels larger size their resource rarely exceeds 50-70 thousand km. The braking system is traditionally reliable, one set of brake pads is enough for 40-50 thousand km, discs are enough for 2-3 sets of pads.

Salon

The interior of the Volkswagen Golf 6 is simple and laconic, but at the same time it is made of quite good materials. As for sound insulation, it is one of the best in the class, the only upset is the presence of crickets in the cabin (they appear in cars with mileage of more than 70,000 km). For drivers weighing 90 kg or more, after a couple of years of use, the foam rubber on the seat is pressed through and the adjustment mechanisms fail (relevant for cars with cheap equipment). Also, there are complaints about the wear resistance of the fabric upholstery of the chairs, so if you want to preserve their presentation, be sure to use covers.

Among the disadvantages of interior equipment, one can note the tendency of the air conditioner condenser to form corrosion; in order to avoid problems, it must be washed a couple of times a year. Often, the heater fan becomes an additional cost item; most often, the cause of fan failure is moisture from melted snow between the hood and the windshield. If the heater fan only turns on when high speed, the resistor needs to be replaced. Rarely, but still, there are cases of failure of the Delphi air conditioning compressor. The electronics are generally reliable, but can experience glitches; in most cases it can be cured by restarting the system.

Result:

Volkswagen Golf 6 is a good car for its price, even despite a number of shortcomings in TSI engines and the short service life of the DSG gearbox. The modern version of the model has long lost its status as a trouble-free German car, despite this, you are unlikely to find a person who, after several years of owning the sixth Golf, will say that this is a bad car.

If you are the owner of this car model, please describe the problems that you encountered while using the car. Perhaps your review will help the readers of our site when choosing a car.

Sincerely, the editors AutoAvenue

Golfs are equipped with a great variety of engines; you can’t cover them all in one article. We have already talked about the CFNA unit ( ZR, 2011, No. 1 ), so this time we are testing a car with an equally popular BSE engine - a 1.6 liter eight-valve (102 hp). It may not be the most sophisticated in terms of technology, but it is less demanding on the quality of Russian fuel, for which we respect it. However, there is always a chance to poison the candles.

NO NEED TO BE AFRAID

According to the official technology, the spark plugs are changed with the intake manifold removed. First you need to turn off the power to the car, and then dismantle many components and parts: the throttle pipe, the air blower into the converter, the rear manifold mounting bracket (suffering from inconvenient access to the left mounting point), as well as all kinds of sensors and communications (you’ll be very lucky, if you can do without broken fastening brackets). Finally, remove the manifold, being careful not to damage the gaskets. In general, half the engine needs to be disassembled.

We will go the other way, fortunately the spark plugs of cylinders 1–2 are inclined to the pulleys, and of cylinders 3–4 - to the flywheel, so with some skill it is still possible to crawl up. First, we remove the spark plug tips by picking them up from under the manifold with the tip of a slotted screwdriver or, which is more convenient, using pliers for the valve stem seals. We move the tips to the side. For the spark plugs of the first and fourth cylinders, a straight wrench is suitable, and for the second and third, located directly under the manifold, we use an extension cord with a cardan. We carefully insert it into the narrow passage, trying not to touch adjacent parts, and put it on the spark plug, correcting the position from under the manifold. When unscrewing spark plugs, pinpoint precision is required so that the tool does not rest on the injectors and their connectors, as well as on the manifold. Otherwise, the injectors will turn and soon begin to leak, and the manifold, being thin-walled, can easily burst. Considering such difficulties, we reduce the rating for this operation. And you decide for yourself - save on the planned replacement of spark plugs in the hope that they will last, or be prepared for repairs if they fail on the road.

You are unlikely to bother with replacing the timing drive. Firstly, it is not required so often (every 90 thousand km), and secondly, it is necessary to hang the power unit and remove the right support. In addition, you have to clear the place by removing the tanks on the right mudguard, the lower part of the fender liner, the V-ribbed belt and protective covers. If you have enough patience for this, then the main thing is not to fuss. The fact is that there is no mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley, it is applied only to the auxiliary belt pulley, therefore, when unscrewing the four bolts of the latter (we do not touch the central one), it is important not to turn the shaft. You can hardly go wrong with the belt adjustment, since the drive has a semi-automatic tensioner.

"HIGH" TECHNOLOGY

There were no difficulties with changing the engine oil, apart from the abundance of fasteners for the standard protection of the engine compartment: six bolts and eight self-tapping screws. And without removing the protection, you won’t be able to get to the drain plug or the filter. The stopper is disposable, with a non-removable sealing ring.

Oil in boxes, regardless of their type, is designed for its entire service life. But only the Universe is eternal, so sooner or later it will have to be replaced, especially if a leak has opened through the seals. The mechanics are simple: there is a drain plug and a filler plug (also known as a control plug). The level should be at the cut of the last one.

With DSG (a robotic gearbox with two clutches) it is much more difficult: there is no control plug, no dipstick. Therefore, if the oil leaks, then there is only one way - to the service. If there is no leak, and you just want to play it safe and replace the fluid, then under no circumstances drain it from the valve body, called the mechatronics. Only from the crankcase of the mechanical part (see photo)! Otherwise, you will ruin the unit. Drain the oil into a measuring container. If everything is in order with the box, we get 1.7 liters - and fill in the same amount of fresh. But how? There is no filler plug, we'll have to get creative. We remove the air filter housing, the battery and its plastic pad, and then the control lever by loosening the terminal fastening to the axle (located in the rear, closer to the front panel). Then we unscrew the four bolts of the cover and, by removing it, we get excellent access to the cavity.

Experts advise not to meddle with the automatic transmission, which is now rare on the Golf, because without a professional scanner that not only measures the temperature, but also captures the so-called control point, you cannot check the correct oil level.

THE GERMANS RETREAT

What we respect about old German cars is the ease of replacing light bulbs. It turned out that everything in the new one was thought out, but not down to the smallest detail. Access to the low beam lamp of the right headlight is blocked by the adsorber, and access to the lamps of the left headlight is blocked by the air filter housing and the fuse box. To avoid fiddling around in tight spaces, it is better to remove them (just remove the cover from the fuse box). Despite the provided catch flag on the low beam socket, replacing the lamp will require dexterity: it tends to fall out when installed in the socket. To access the foglights, you need to remove the wheel and the lower part of the fender liner by removing 11 screws - another minus.

I also didn’t like everything about the lanterns, since the outer sections need to be removed by unscrewing the plastic wing bolt. To make it possible to get to it, cuts were made in the trunk upholstery, but they are so short that you cannot crawl through the gap. The hand did not rise to grab the knife, so the upholstery was bent back, releasing it from under the doorway seal.

If the new lamp does not light, remove the negative terminal from the battery for three minutes to reset the error in the lamp health control unit.

Having Torx-45 for the guides, you can cope with replacing the front pads without hassle. There is a nuance in the rear mechanisms: the outer block is glued to the bed in the bracket, and the inner block is glued to the end of the piston. To do this, an adhesive composition is applied to the metal base of the pads, but before installing them, degrease the surfaces. Although, from experience, they will soon come unstuck and start squeaking. The tightening torque of the front and rear guides is 30 N.m, the wheel bolts are 100 N.m.

WHAT IS GOOD FOR RUSSIANS

There's a remote fuel filter here! It is located on the side of the gas tank, in front of the rear right wheel. Before changing, release the pressure in the tank (unscrew and re-tighten the cap) and in the ramp (press on the spool under the blue cap), then when disconnecting the lines you will not be sprayed with fuel.

To access the cabin filter, unscrew the two plastic thumbscrews securing the trim under the instrument panel (above the front passenger’s feet). Then everything is simple.

This video discusses replacing the rear brake pads on a Volkswagen Golf 6. As you can see, you can change the pads yourself, it’s not that difficult.

What you need to replace Golf 6 pads:

a set of new pads (“COTEC” - TRWGDB 1330);

key to 13;

special tool for pressing in brake cylinder pistons;

lubricant for brake mechanisms.

When to change the pads on a Volkswagen Golf 6

The frequency of replacing brake pads depends greatly on their quality, as well as the terrain, manner and driving style. Exemplary replacement interval- 50-60 thousand km. The thickness of the pads should be checked every 15,000 km. mileage and if the friction linings are worn down to 2 mm, it’s time to change the pads. An impending replacement can also be indicated by a piercing grinding sound produced by a “wear sensor” - a special plate that begins to rub against the metal. If such a sensor is installed, of course.

How to change brake pads on Golf 6

First you need to jack up the car and remove the wheel. Then unscrew the two bolts securing the brake caliper to 13, holding it with a wrench to 15. After this, you need to remove the handbrake cable and remove the caliper.

The caliper should be suspended or laid down so that there is no strain on the brake hose.

Next, you should remove the old pads. To install new pads, you need to press in the brake cylinder piston. For this you need open the brake fluid reservoir cap, so that it has somewhere to go and the piston goes easier. The piston is pressed in with a special tool, since the piston must be pressed in and turned at the same time.

If the brake fluid level is at the maximum level, it must be lowered by removing the fluid with a syringe.

Next you need to replace the pad mounting brackets, lubricate the caliper guides, install new pads and return the caliper to its place. This instruction in video format shows in more detail how to replace the rear brake pads of a Golf 6.