Pedal axle. Types of bicycle pedals

17.11.201927.05.2017

Perhaps fans of simple periodic bicycle rides are not familiar with this term, but those who often use a bicycle as vehicle and, especially, cycling professionals know what a carriage mechanism is.

Like any mechanism, this part is subject to wear and tear over time. external influence, wears out or becomes completely unusable, which requires maintenance, complete or partial replacement. In any case, you first need to remove the carriage, determine the suitability of the part, and then decide whether to repair it or replace it with a new one.

The carriage is a unit located in the middle part of the frame, placed in a special cavity - a glass. Where to look? It's simple: it is hidden where the connecting rods with pedals and stars are located. The main functions of the carriage are to connect the connecting rods to the frame of the bicycle and provide torque when pedaling.

A completely reasonable question may arise: is it absolutely impossible to do without this device? There is no bicycle without a carriage. If you still get one, it means that it is not in use now.

Depending on the bicycle model, the carriages differ in size and maintainability. Most widespread received 68 mm units, but other diameters can be found. Carriage shaft length range: 110mm, 113mm and 122.5mm.

Types of carriage units:

cartridge (disposable);
dismountable, which can be repaired.

The first type includes carriages that are installed in a frame and cannot be disassembled. Obviously, the service life of such a mechanism is equal to the time of complete wear of the bearings or axle. Complete sealing of the unit allows it to be used for a long time even in extreme conditions, not to mention measured driving.

Collapsible mechanisms will require periodic inspection and maintenance from the owner. The latter consists of replacing worn bearings and lubricating the entire assembly. We’ll talk about them further: how to remove the carriage, fix the problem and reassemble the unit.

Troubleshooting

The fact that the carriage has become “glitchy” can be found out only when the pedals are rotated. It is difficult to determine visually the problems of the assembly, so it is better to prick up your ears and move your attention to the area of the lower part of the frame. You shouldn't listen too much, especially if you're driving on a busy road. However, if the condition of the carriage is unimportant, it will “scream” about itself without delay.

A faulty carriage will prevent you from riding your bike quickly. Clogged dirt, worn bearings and lack of lubrication will constantly impede movement. All this is accompanied by an unpleasant creaking and a characteristic knock from below. Also, the unit may begin to play (broken bearings and axle misalignment).

You can finally check whether it is really worth disassembling the carriage using the “standing drive” method. To do this, you need to accelerate a little, stand up from the seat and spin the pedals. When the carriage mechanism jams, the sounds and deterioration in pedal travel will only intensify.

Removing the carriage: doing it right!

It is absolutely logical that in order to fix the problem, you first need to remove the unit from the bicycle frame. To be precise, take it out of the glass. The conversation will be about how to do it yourself.

So, before you begin the removal procedure, you will need a set of tools:

Connecting rod squeeze.
Spanner. If the nut size is unknown, then an adjustable wrench will do.
Flathead screwdriver.
Small hammer.
Carriage remover for removing from the glass.

Before disassembling, you should clean the entire area around the carriage. Use a damp cloth to remove all dirt and dust from the frame, the area of the carriage cup and connecting rods. This will be enough to prevent excess dirt from getting inside during disassembly. But it will be better if you wash the whole bike. Cleanliness is the best assistant in repairs. Proven!

The plugs are removed from the connecting rods. Basically, these are plastic covers that can be easily pryed off with a screwdriver and just as easily inserted back. Next, you need to unscrew the nuts securing the connecting rods to the carriage. A squeeze tool will help in this matter: put it on the nut, then take the key and unscrew it. Depending on the type of thread, the direction of loosening and tightening the nuts may vary. There is an option where on the left side the thread is right-handed (counterclockwise - loosening), and on the right - left-handed (counterclockwise - tightening). There may be only right-hand threads on both sides; it won’t be difficult to figure it out.

The next step is removing the connecting rods. The squeeze is inserted at the other end and screwed into the connecting rod. The squeeze bolt is screwed into the connecting rod with force, as a result of which it gradually moves off the axis. It is recommended to start removal from the side where there are no transmission sprockets.

The bicycle carriage is held using special cups secured with rings. A screwdriver is placed on the ring so that its end points to the left. By lightly tapping the hammer on the screwdriver, the ring smoothly turns to the left and pops off. Similarly, by turning to the left, using the percussive method, the cup is also removed.

So, we finally got to the carriage bearings. These small parts can be removed with the same screwdriver: pry them and they will pop out.

And finally, using a removable device, the carriage shaft is pulled out of the glass - a rotating part that plays main role in the mobility of bicycle connecting rods.

Troubleshooting: maintenance, cleaning, replacement

We disassembled the carriage, pulled it out of the frame and what do we see? The condition of the carriage cup depends on how much dirt has gotten into it and how much the bearings have worn out. Sometimes bearings simply break into pieces and require complete replacement. This often happens if the carriage assembly has been in use for more than three to five years.

First, all parts must be checked for defects. First of all, this applies to bearings. Then we inspect the carriages, cups with clamps. If any component has visible damage, then you need to replace it with a new one. The remaining parts are cleaned in solvent. The most difficult thing to clean will be the bearings: the dirt is very firmly held between the balls.

The space inside the carriage glass is cleaned with a rag. It is better to spray fine dirt with a lubricating spray (WD-40, for example) and wipe the walls with a soft, dry cloth.

Lubrication and carriage assembly

Using a screwdriver, the walls of the glass are processed. The product should be applied in an even, thin layer. No need to put mountains of lubricant inside. This is of no use. Lubricant is then applied to the bearing, which is inserted from the sprocket side. The flat frame should face outwards. Then you need to lubricate the carriage shaft and insert it so that the long end is on the transmission side. In general, assembling the carriage occurs in the reverse order.

The bearing on the other side is inserted in reverse, with the frame into the glass. The cups are lubricated from the inside and then put on. It is necessary to tighten until the axial play is completely eliminated. In this case, the rotation of the shaft should be slightly constrained. Once the fastening rings are installed, the cup will move slightly and the axle will rotate freely.

All that remains is to assemble the connecting rods. The most important thing here is to put them on so that, God forbid, they don’t fall off when pedaling. Procedure for effectively assembling connecting rods:

The square is lubricated with a small amount of grease, this will help to fit it deeper onto the axle.
Processing the screw with a thread locker.
Tighten the connecting rod nut with maximum force until it stops. You can even lengthen the key - the thread will not break.
Inserting plugs.

A bicycle is an extremely unstable unit, so it must be carefully secured when carrying out any repair work. The frame will not swing back and forth, which eliminates the risk of the bike falling on your feet or hands.

The carriage is assembled and ready for use. In general, the procedure is simple even for the first time, and in the future, disassembling and installing the mechanism will not be difficult at all.

Bicycle pedals are a part that allows the cyclist to move the bike by pressing on them. Using pedals and a connecting rod system, the carriage shaft is driven and torque is transmitted through the flail to the rear wheel hub.

The pedals themselves do not determine the speed or handling of the bike, but the better the pedals, the more comfortable it is for the rider to pedal. And some modern pedals not only save energy, but also give you a better feel for the bike. Although the design of all existing pedals is generally the same, they can still differ in purpose and types of platforms. Further in the article we will look at how a bicycle pedal is designed, what types there are, how they are attached to the bicycle and what sizes they come in.

Pedal structure - bushing, axle, platform and bearings

The design of a bicycle pedal is quite simple, and we will look at it using the example of a regular road pedal. Free rotation of the pedal is ensured by a bushing, which consists of a body and an axle. The axle has threads on both sides for attaching to the connecting rod on one side and screwing on the cone with a lock nut on the other. The cone on the connecting rod side is part of the axle. Free rotation is ensured by loose bearings, caged or industrial bearings. The body and pads form the pedal platform.

Types of pedals by purpose and types of platforms

Walking - the simplest and cheapest type of pedals. The platform of such pedals is made of plastic. They are vulnerable to impacts and often break when dropped on their side. The advantage of walking pedals is the cheap price, and the higher it is, the stronger the plastic used. The platform of such pedals does not provide normal traction with shoes, as a result of which the feet may slip. Walking pedals are used on children's, recreational and the cheapest sports bikes.

Universal - these pedals are suitable for all types of bicycles and are mainly used for walking and cross-country. The body of such pedals is made of metal, most often aluminum, which provides good shock resistance. Almost all bikes average price equipped with such pedals. The universal pedal platform is equipped with cleats for better grip on shoes.

- these are the same universal pedals, only better and more reliable. Aluminum is predominantly used as a material. There are often studs for better grip, and the area of the entire platform is increased. Tramps are not very suitable for aggressive skating; they are most often used in cross-country and racing. BMX bicycles. The picture below shows professional aggressive pedals with removable cleats.

- these are pedals that provide excellent grip of the foot on the pedal and allow you not only to press the pedals, but also to pull them, which solves the problem of dead spots. Toe clip pedals not only have a regular platform, but also straps to secure your feet. The disadvantage of such pedals is the difficulty in quickly releasing the feet. For them effective use need to practice. Toe clips are not used in extreme disciplines, but are well suited for hiking trips and track racing.

Contact - these are the most modern and technologically advanced pedals, the prototype of which are toe clips. Clipless pedals have all the advantages of toe clips, but at the same time releasing the legs is much easier. Perhaps the only drawback of such pedals is the need for special shoes. These shoes are equipped with special cleats that come with the pedals. These cleats fit into a special mechanism on the pedal and thereby provide the maximum possible grip. To quilt your leg, just turn your heel. The quilting time is almost instantaneous and after a little practice you quickly get used to them. Clipless pedals are the most expensive of all, and special shoes are partly to blame for this.

Semi-contact - these are pedals with a regular platform on one side and a contact platform on the other. The advantage of such pedals is that you can first buy the pedals themselves and buy the shoes later.

Road - these are the same contact pedals, but optimized for the needs of road bicycles, namely, a more rigid and precise fastening, reduced weight of the pedal itself. In addition, the contact area between the pedal and the shoe has been significantly increased. Road pedals are always single-sided, this is done to reduce weight due to the complex design of the pedal. All these features make these pedals highly targeted, which is why they are used exclusively on road bikes.

Folding - This is an exotic type of pedal and is extremely rare. Most often, folding pedals are used on folding bicycles for ease of transportation and indoor storage. These pedals are very convenient if you store your bike in your apartment; fold the pedals and won’t touch them as you pass by. The axle of folding pedals is shorter than all other types. Despite the fact that it is short, it must withstand normal loads, so it is most often made of high-strength alloys.

Dimensions, threads and fastening of pedals.

The size of the pedal depends on the purpose of the bicycle on which it will be used. There are two threads on the pedal axle, one for attaching the pedal to the crank and the other for adjusting the tightness of the bearings. For fastening to the connecting rod, it is customary to use M14-0.1 thread, less often M14-1.25. At the other end of the axle, the thread is most often M7-1; the bearing adjustment cone is screwed onto it. It is worth noting that the thread for attaching the pedal to the connecting rod is versatile. On the left is a left-hand thread, on the right is a right-hand thread, this is done so that the pedals do not unscrew during operation.

Thanks to their thoughtful design, servicing Shimano pedals is a pleasure. Moreover, this prolongs their life and reduces rolling resistance in the bearings, which ultimately affects pedaling efficiency.

The following instructions apply to all SPD pedal models, road and mountain, as well as Saint, XT and DX models.

What you need to know

Bearings: All Shimano SPD pedals still use bulk bearings, so if you have some difficulty assembling the bulk bearings, it is best to never completely disassemble the pedals.

Housing material: SPD pedal bodies are made of aluminum alloy or special carbon composite (in premium country versions), so don't worry about any cosmetic damage. It is very difficult to break the insides of pedals.

Springs: Spiral wound steel springs are perhaps the main characteristic feature of all Shimano SPD clipless pedals. It is impossible to confuse clipping into them with any other pedals.

Axles: Shimano prefers the rigidity and reliability of steel axles. All Shimano SPD pedals use 6 or 8mm hex sockets or 15mm open end wrenches for installation.

Adjustment screws: All Shimano SPD clipless pedals have a 3mm hex to adjust the release force of the pedals. Everyone can choose the effort to their liking.

To begin with, we will tell you how to carry out super-fast service, and after that we will describe the full service algorithm, don’t switch!

Tool:

7, 10 and 17 mm spanners
Hexagons
Grease
Degreaser
Chain lube
Spline puller (if needed)

Clean the pedals

To avoid the possibility of dirt getting inside the pedals and to make your work more pleasant, clean the pedals from dirt. You can use a degreaser or hot water with liquid detergent from your kitchen (just don’t take too much so that it doesn’t come from your wife/mother). Ideally, you should let the pedals dry or dry them using compressed air from a compressor.

Remove the axle

Unscrewing the axle from the pedal body is not at all difficult, use 17mm spanner or a spline puller if you have splined pedals. Be careful! The right pedal has a reverse thread and must be unscrewed clockwise!(Don't use an adjustable wrench, the author is just a lazy ass and couldn't find a 17mm wrench).

Clean the axle and its seat

After unscrewing the pedal housing, simply remove it from the axle. If the grease is black, then it's time to change it. Remove old grease and dirt from the axle, and if you are not lazy and have a degreaser or kerosene, then rinse the axle in it. After the procedure, thoroughly wipe the pedal with a rag.

Pedal assembly

Use grease, fill the inside of the pedal housing with it, and return the axle to its place. Tighten the axle, taking into account the direction of the thread. There is a mark on the body with the direction and the inscription TIGHTEN, but if you have erased it, then know that the axis is twisted clockwise for the left and counterclockwise for the right.

Grease will seep out of the cracks between the housing and the axle, don’t worry, this is normal. If dirty lubricant comes out, then clean lubricant squeezes it out, and that’s good! Repeat the procedure of filling the pedal housing cavity with grease until clean grease comes out. This will mean that you have almost completely replaced the old grease.

Do not forget to tighten the axle with the required torque (10Nm). If you don't have a torque wrench, know that you don't have to push it too hard. Simply screw the axle into the pedal body with the required force.

Lubricate the spring

It's a good idea to lubricate the spring that holds the cleat off your boot on the pedal. Chain lube works great. Don't overdo it or use too much lube, you don't want excess dirt sticking to the pedal, right?

Clean the threads

Clean the threads in the connecting rod and pedal axle using a degreaser. And don’t forget to lubricate it, you don’t want the pedal to get stuck, do you?

Full pedal release

Now let's talk about a complete analysis of the axis itself. If you have any play, or you suspect that the bearings are already quite worn out and want to check it, then you should completely disassemble the axle.

Unscrew the locknut

Using a 7mm wrench, unscrew the locknut, and then use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the cone that holds the bulk bearings on the axle and regulates their preload.

Visually assess the condition of the bearings. Be careful! If you grab the bushing in which the bearings are installed, they will most likely fly out of it in bulk.. There is nothing holding them inside the bushing, and the bearing balls themselves are located both at the adjusting cone and on the opposite side, where this bushing connects to the axle itself. If the bearings still run loose, then use the method described in paragraph 8 of the article “How to eliminate play in the pedal.” Alternately, assemble the “inner” part of the bearing, and then the outer one.

Eliminate play

Lubricate the bearing and tighten the adjusting cone so that the bearing rotates freely around the axis, but does not play. Secure the result with a locknut.

Assemble the pedal

Return to " Pedal assembly"and complete the repairs.

Additional lifehacks

The axle nut on older and budget models of Shimano SPD pedals can be made of nylon and, instead of the usual 17mm wrench, can be disassembled using a special tool TL-PD40. Use it if you want to disassemble the pedal.

If your boots do not fit well into the pedals, then find the place on the sole where exactly the “conflict” occurs. Most often, it is some kind of rubber spike that prevents you from fastening properly. Using a sharp blade, remove part of the thorn until you are happy with the result.

To prevent the mechanism that holds the cleat from the shoe in the pedal from creaking, regularly lubricate it with a lubricant containing paraffin. You can use the same lube for your chain. We have already written about its advantages in the research article “”.

Bicycle pedals are the most important mechanism, providing not only reliable support for the biker, but also transmitting the energy of mechanical movement. This mechanism converts reciprocating motion (piston) into torque.

It is the expression “pedaling” that not only most accurately conveys not only the biomechanics of the movement of a bicycle, but also simply replaces the words “went for a ride.”

Components of a bicycle pedal

Whatever the innovations of this unit, the main components remain unchanged:

Axis. Attention! The pedals are the only bicycle assembly that has symmetrical threads, with the help of which the axle is firmly screwed into: the right one for the right one and the left one for the left one. If the threads are of the same name, then sooner or later one of the pedals will unscrew by itself and fall. In ordinary bikes, the axle is made of simple steel, but better - chrome-molybdenum or chrome-vanadium.
The actual body on which the shoe sole rests. It is the body that provides inexhaustible food for designers and allows bicycle pedals to look beautiful and unique.
Bearings ensure easy rotation of the pedal body around its axis.

Classification

The bicycle pedals seem identical only to the uninitiated eye. In fact, they are divided both by purpose and design. To choose the right pedals, you need to know their main types:

Regular walking tours

The name “walking” is not entirely correct. Rather, they should be called “Auchan pedals” by analogy with “Auchan bikes.” As a rule, they are included in the package of the cheapest bicycles. Consists of 100% plastic. They often split when hitting an obstacle, have a small area, and do not have a good “aggressive” texture or spikes, which is why the foot often slips. By and large, these are not pedals at all, but “temporary equipment”.

Pedals for a mountain bike or mountain bike (MTB)

These pedals are of higher quality and can last for many years and go thousands and tens of thousands of kilometers if you do not use aggressive riding styles. They are lightweight and are based on aluminum alloys. Their second, everyday name is “trampling”. And this is the right word: they are literally “trampled on”, different areas of the sole are loaded without fear, standing on them they are “screwed” into a hill (after all, they are for mountain bike). They have reliable wavy treads around the perimeter, and sometimes spikes.

Elite, best pedals for mountain biking must meet the following criteria: have the correct shape and a well-thought-out clutch and fastening system, reliable bearings that can and should be changed, an impact-resistant platform and balanced weight. For example, the Burgtec Penthouse MK4 model, pictured below, is a masterpiece costing up to £150 per pair.

Clipless pedals

The popularity of contact pedals is very high. They have a mechanism for fastening, are light and compact, but they require special cycling shoes. The contacts attach to shoes in two ways, and there are two fastening systems, Look and SPD.

Contact pedals are needed primarily to ensure that the foot works with greater efficiency. During normal pedaling, only when you press the pedal, work is done, and lifting to complete a new cycle is accomplished by working with the second leg.

When riding in contacts, the leg works in both phases; when climbing, it pulls the pedal up, or, what is the same, helps the second leg press. In addition, the knee is relieved and the bike is secured when jumping in cross-country.

The Look binding system is used by professionals for road racing. The thing is that the leg is very rigidly fixed according to the “put it in and forget it” principle, but you can’t unfasten it so quickly. If you have a track in front of you without obstacles or oncoming traffic, this system is for you.

The SPD fastening system was developed by one of the cycling leaders, Shimano. An excellent compromise for a hybrid, road bike and mountain biking.

Quality contacts should not come loose when going uphill if you are standing on straight legs, but if there is the slightest danger of falling, the feet should release as quickly as possible.

Semi-contact

Finally, there are compromise semi-contact pedals. On one side there is a contact plate on the surface, on the other side there is a regular pedal surface.

Toe clips

Good old toe clips, that is, straps. Although they are inferior to contact and semi-contact ones in terms of fixation, they are better than regular ones. Their cost is lower than contact ones. They can easily be used by enthusiasts on both track, touring and mountain bikes.
The second killer argument comes from cyclists with shoes size 49-51. In Russia, and abroad, it is extremely rare to purchase cycling shoes with contacts in these sizes.

It is enough to equip the pedals with a reliable rotating mechanism, and ordinary stools turn into folding ones. The purpose of folding pedals is to make it easier to transport and store the bike. As you can see in the photo, good folding pedals with aggressive treads are hard to find. Therefore, it is easier to use them while walking.

How to properly remove and change pedals

In order to remove the pedals, unlike the carriage assembly, various tools can be used: an adjustable wrench, a regular 15 mm open-end wrench, a special pedal wrench. When using an adjustable wrench, pay attention to its thickness: the distance between the pedal mount and the pedal itself is small.

Rules you need to know when changing pedals:

You need to change it so that the wheels touch the ground. If the bike is on its backside, you can get confused as to how the pedals should be named: right (on the side of the sprockets), left on the other side.
Which way should I unscrew? The right one must be unscrewed like a regular thread - counterclockwise, and the left one, on the contrary, must be unscrewed clockwise.
You need to screw in the pedals, keeping in mind the different thread cuts. The left pedal is screwed in counterclockwise.

Maintenance

The pedal assembly is one of the most heavily loaded, so it is advisable to check the condition of the bearings every season. Both without load and under load, rotation should be easy. Under load - no play along or across the axis, no crunching or squeaking. Full service boils down to this:

disassembling the unit, cleaning the pedals from old grease and dirt;
changing bearings and filling places with bearing grease;
lubrication of components.

In conclusion, it should be said that engineering does not stand still, and to increase the coefficient useful action bicycle and increasing speed, a prototype bike has been developed that also uses hand power, that is, it has ordinary pedals and hand levers.

The figure shows a prototype of a bicycle that uses foot and hand drives for movement, created by Dutch specialists from the company TSG Essempio. As they say, even in such a simple topic as bicycle pedals, there is no limit to perfection.

Edited: 04/19/2019

A situation has arisen that you need to unscrew the pedals from the bicycle, but you don’t know how to do it correctly. Let's look at how to perform this operation quickly and easily.

When You May Need to Remove Bicycle Pedals

To carry out maintenance. For example, there is a crunching or squeaking sound and you need to clean and lubricate them.
When replacing old pedals with new ones, or replacing connecting rods.
When packing a bicycle in a case or to reduce the space it takes up when transporting it in transport.
When preparing a bike for . Again, to minimize the space occupied by the bike
How . The method is very effective - well, where can you go on such a bike. The trick here is that they should be removed easily and simply. You should always have a tool for this and a small bag in which the removed pedals will be placed with you. You won't carry them in your hands all the time.

The peculiarity of the pedals is that they have symmetrical threads.

Each of them must have a label: which is left and which is right. Usually these are the English letters L - Left (left) and R - Right (right), respectively, for the left and right pedals.

The left pedal is always manufactured with a left-hand thread. This means that it screws in counterclockwise and unscrews clockwise.

On the right there is a regular right-hand thread. It twists clockwise and unscrews counterclockwise.

This was done so that when the pedals are twisted while the bicycle is moving, they do not unscrew.

It’s easier to remember the rule: the pedals are unscrewed against the direction the bike is moving - turn towards rear wheel, and twist in the direction of travel - twist to front wheel.

What tool do you use to remove the pedals?

Open-end wrench 15 mm
Various ones that have a 15 mm key.
Adjustable wrench.
Some models can be removed and installed with 6/8/10 mm hex keys
There are special pedal wrenches that combine a 15mm open-end wrench and hex wrenches in one tool.

When using an adjustable wrench, be sure to pay attention to its thickness. The fact is that the distance between the pedal mount and the connecting rod is not large, and not every adjustable wrench will fit there. Some types of these wrenches come with thin jaws that can be used. Open-end or special pedal wrenches are excellent for this operation.

How to remove the pedals

It is best to do this when the bike is on wheels. Why? The fact is that sometimes it takes quite a lot of force to unscrew it and you have to use the weight of your entire body. This is easier to do with the bike standing on its wheels than with it hanging on a rack.
Remove the right pedal. The best way to do this is to place the right crank in the 3 o'clock position: the crank is horizontal to the ground and facing the front wheel. Considering that the right pedal has a normal thread, unscrew it like a regular carving - counterclockwise.
Then remove the left pedal. Place the left crank arm at the 9 o'clock position. It is again horizontal to the ground and facing the front wheel. Remember that the left pedal has a left-hand thread and, unscrew it clockwise.

If the thread on the axle is “stuck” to the connecting rod and cannot be removed

You can apply WD-40 to the joint for 10-15 minutes and try to unscrew it again.
If WD-40 is not available, you can use other products (analogs of WD-40) or, for example, kerosene (you need to wait 2-3 hours).
If it is still difficult to unscrew after this, try increasing the length of the lever. Just take a longer wrench or put a metal pipe on it to increase the arm (no one has yet canceled Archimedes' law).
Some bike mechanics offer another method. Water from a boiling kettle is gradually poured into the junction of the axle and the connecting rod, causing the metal to warm up a little and, as a result, reduce the tightness of the fit. Personally, I have not tried this option and it seems to me that a boiling water temperature of 90-100 degrees will not heat the connecting rod very much, although it will definitely wash it.
It is more logical to try to heat this place with a hair dryer or a powerful soldering iron. When working with a hair dryer, heat the junction of the axle and the connecting rod and monitor the temperature of the pedal body, especially if it is plastic.

It’s definitely not worth heating this place with an open fire.
Honestly, you can also try hitting the key with a hammer several times to at least move the thread from the “dead point.” It is useless to strike the pedal itself and, moreover, the connecting rod - you will only bend them.

How to put a pedal on a bicycle.

One more little tip.

How to check the pedal

It is advisable to check the condition of the pedals, their tightness, the absence of play and the condition of the housing before each trip. You can simply stand on it with your foot, and then spin it, watch and listen to how it spins on its axis. If there is no visual beat or unnecessary sounds, everything is fine, you can go.

Remember, if while driving the pedal gets unscrewed, breaks or gets lost, you are unlikely to be able to go anywhere, and the risk of injury is quite high.