For 35 years, Fox Racing Shox has been a leading manufacturer of shock absorbers for SUVs, ATVs, ATVs, motorcycles and snowmobiles. Initially shock absorbers

Fox was developed for racing motorcycles, and a little later the company began producing high-tech shock absorbers for cars participating in off-road competitions. In particular, using a car equipped with Fox Racing Shox shock absorbers, Roger Mears won the legendary American Baja 1000 race. And Jean-Louis Schlesser, using Fox Racing Shox shock absorbers, became a two-time Dakar winner. The Fox Racing Shox company produces shock absorbers, both for non-lifted cars, and sets of struts for cars with serious tuning. It should be noted that even the cheapest and simplest Fox shock absorbers provide much more capabilities than traditional products from competing companies.

This photo report is about rebuilding, oil changing and servicing the rear shock absorber of a Fox DHX 5.0 bicycle. This shock absorber began to make unpleasant slurping sounds when the suspension was activated. Also changing the settings did not work properly. The shock absorber must be serviced at least once a year. Moreover, it is quite simple and requires a small number of tools. Fresh oil and the absence of air in it will return its former softness and distinct operation. your bicycle shock absorber Fox DHX 5.0.

Well, let's get started, study the diagram and instructions for the Fox DHX 5.0 bicycle shock absorber

Remove the shock absorber from the bike and clean the bushings. Then remove the spring and clean the housing with a brush.

Bike Trip bicycle repair shop, bicycle repair, bicycle mechanic, fox rear shock absorber rebuild, fox rear shock absorber maintenance, fox rear shock absorber repair, fox rear shock absorber spring, fox rear shock absorber for bicycle, bicycle shock absorber

Before servicing, clean the rear shock absorber from dirt and sand. I use brake cleaner; it dissolves hardened grease and reagents from winter roads well. It does not corrode the rubber seals of forks and shock absorbers. Before servicing the Fox shock absorber, release the pressure from the air chamber. Then tighten the spring adjusting ring until it stops.

Unscrew the two small screws securing the blue Botton Out adjustment knob. Let's remove it and put it away along with small parts so as not to lose it.

Fox DHX 5.0 Coil


Fox DHX 5.0


Changing the oil in a Fox DHX 5.0 bicycle shock absorber

We clamp the shock absorber in a vice, carefully so as not to damage the seats of the bashings. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the air chamber cover. We unscrew it and see the IPF valve in front of us.

Bicycle repair St. Petersburg


Fox DHX 5.0


shock absorber bulkhead

Remove the air chamber piston. And underneath we see oil with air. This is what causes poor performance. And it has long been in need of replacement with a fresh one.

Then unscrew the cap-nut with the rod and piston. Wipe and degrease. Then we turn the shock over and drain the used oil from it.

Bicycle repair St. Petersburg


Fox shock absorber repair


Overhaul and repair of forks and shock absorbers Fox Racing Shox St. Petersburg

Drain the foamed oil and wash the insides of the shock absorber with cleaner. We wipe everything dry. This is not a complete overhaul of the shock absorber, so far we have done without disassembling the piston. Let's clean the oil seal on the rod and remove sand from there. Then we’ll prepare fork butter, any good kind will do. We will replace the used oil with Motul synthetic fork oil, viscosity to taste 7.5-10W.

Fox shock absorbers reviews


Fox DHX 5.0 bike shock absorber rebuild


Changing the oil in the shock absorber, Fox DHX 5.0, bicycle repair, bicycle workshop, bicycle service, St. Petersburg

Unscrew the screw from the Ipf valve. And we set it to a certain depth. Below is a table for various shock absorbers depending on stroke and axle length.

Size Shock Depth
190mm 50mm =32mm
200mm 50mm =32mm
200mm 57mm =33mm
215mm 64mm =34mm
222mm 70mm =36mm
241mm 76mm =38mm

Fox DHX 5.0


Fox DHX 5.0


bicycle mechanic

Pour fresh oil into the right chamber. We wait until the oil fills the volume completely and begins to flow out of the hole for the screw in the air chamber. We control the depth of the piston. By the way, if you vary this depth, you can play with the progression of shock absorption.

OverhaulFox DHX 5.0 overhaul, bicycle shock absorber maintenance, bicycle repair, bicycle repair, oil change, suspension tuning. bicycle shock absorber maintenance, bicycle repair, bicycle repair, oil change, suspension tuning.


Fox DHX 5.0 overhaul, bicycle shock absorber maintenance, bicycle repair, bicycle repair, oil change, suspension tuning.

We insert the piston very carefully, the oil will spill out, and air bubbles must not get inside. Otherwise, the shock absorber will again champ and make unpleasant sounds. We tighten the nut, having previously lubricated the rubber bands with red room. Then wipe the air chamber dry.

fox shock absorber lubrication fox rear shock absorber bulkhead


fox dhx 5.0


bicycle workshop in St. Petersburg, bicycle repair in St. Petersburg, bicycle repair, bicycle repair, do-it-yourself bicycle repair, bicycle repair, biketrip, bike trip, bicycle mechanic, bicycle doctor, bicycle mechanic,

Add Red Rum grease to the air chamber to taste. Also lubricate all threads and rubber seals with it. By the way, if there is air left in the system, the shock absorber will squelch when compressed. And you will need to re-pump it again, but without setting the IPF.

We assemble the shock absorber and put on the spring. We pump the required pressure under our weight into the air chamber. We install it on the bike and check all the adjustments. All the knobs turn softly, the rebound and compression have become much clearer. The shock absorber is much softer when starting off and handles small irregularities very well.

Step 1 Make sure the snowmobile is securely supported on a jack or stand and the skis are clear of the ground. Before you begin removing the original shock absorbers, you need to make sure that the suspension is fully extended. Install FLOAT 3 EVOL shock absorbers so that the location of the air chambers corresponds to the figures above.

Step 2 Tighten the original fasteners according to the manufacturer's recommendations. The air chambers on the FOX FLOAT 3 shocks are pre-set in pressure, but it is recommended to check the pressure during initial installation before driving.

ADJUSTING FLOAT 3 EVOL SHOCK ABSORBERS

Step 1 Make sure the snowmobile is securely supported on the undercarriage. jack or rack, and the skis are torn off the supporting surface. Remove the filling valve cap of the EVOL air chamber.
NOTE:
BEFORE ADJUSTING MAIN PNEUMATIC CHAMBER PRESSURE, ALWAYS ADJUST EVOL PNEUMATIC CHAMBER PRESSURE FIRST.

Step 2 Screw the pump onto the charging valve of the EVOL air chamber until it is fully seated and the pressure reading appears on the pump's high pressure scale.
NOTE:
WHEN YOU CONNECT THE PUMP, THE HOSE AND PRESSURE GAUGE WILL BE FILLED WITH AIR COMING FROM THE PNEUMATIC CHAMBER. AS A RESULT, YOU WILL SEE LOWER PRESSURE READINGS THAN WAS ACTUALLY INSTALLED IN THE SHOCK ABSORBER CHAMBER. THIS IS NORMAL.

Step 3 Inflate the shock absorber to set the required pressure. You can relieve pressure by pressing the black release valve located on the pump. ( WARNING: Do not exceed the maximum allowable EVOL PNEUMATIC CHAMBER pressure (300 psi).
By pressing the bleeder valve halfway and holding it there, air will be continuously released from the pump and shock absorber. By fully pressing the bleeder valve and then releasing it, only a small amount of air will escape and the pressure will drop slightly (fine adjustment). When unscrewing the pump from the Schrader valve, you will only hear the sound of air coming out of the pump hose and not from the shock absorber. The pressure in the shock absorber will not change.

Step 4 Screw the pump onto the MAIN air chamber charging valve until it is fully seated and the pressure reading appears on the pump low pressure dial.

Step 5 Inflate the shock absorber to set it to the required pressure. You can relieve pressure by pressing the black release valve located on the pump. ( WARNING: Do not exceed the maximum allowable pressure IN THE MAIN PNEUMATIC CHAMBER - 150 psi)

Step 6 Lower the snowmobile to the floor and remove the jack. Push the front bumper down three times to lower the front of the snowmobile. Measure ground clearance snowmobile with the driver sitting on it from a previously selected chassis point. This is size “C” (for example, 177.8 mm is the suspension height).

Step 7“B” - Suspension height with fully extended shock absorbers (For example, 247.65 mm) Suspension height with fully extended shock absorbers - suspension height = Suspension sag.
B - C = new drawdown value. For example, 247.65 mm - 177.8 mm = 69.85 mm (drawdown).

Step 8 In our example, you might want to increase the pressure in the air chamber, which-
increase the suspension height and reduce suspension sag by repeating the steps described above
from fourth to sixth. However, if the suspension height is too high and the pro-
pressure is too small, you will want to reduce the pressure in the air chamber

Step 9 Reinstall the air element charging valve caps.

OPERATION MANUAL

To install rods on the shore in carp fishing, three types of devices are used: rod-pod, counters and buzz bar. This variety of rod stands is due to the fact that carp fishing is predominantly so-called “stationary” fishing. During this type of fishing, the rods are on the shore for a long time. It’s hard to imagine that you will be holding three or four working rods in your hands for two days of fishing, waiting for a bite, while also feeding the point and recasting. Therefore, in carp fishing, there are various options for installing rods on the shore, and various technical means for this.

Conventional flyers, even as a compromise, are not suitable for installing carp rods, since an electronic and mechanical bite alarm is attached to the rod stand. In addition, the rod on such a stand will not be securely fixed.

Rod-under

A rod-pod is a special design that allows for the simultaneous installation of several working rods along with bite alarms. Rod pods are very convenient because they can be installed on any surface, and they have a significant degree of stability.

Rod-pods can be divided into two large classes - three-legged and four-legged. The former have a tripod as supports, the latter have four support legs, usually arranged in pairs.

Photo 2. Rod-pod on a Fox Eclipse tripod

Photo 3. Four-legged Fox Horizon Pod

Four-legged rod pods have greater stability, while three-legged ones have more freedom in terms of the ability to adjust the angle of installation of the rods (vertically - tips up or tips towards the water). Also, the three-support rod-pod allows you to lower the tips of all rods into the water in one movement, which creates certain convenience when landing fish - the risk of tangling neighboring fishing lines is reduced. But all these advantages are offset by the low stability of the three-legged rod-pod. Rod-pods such as Fox Ranger, Fox Sky Pod, Cygnet allow you to install the rods with their tips pointing to the sky, and the height adjustment of the legs makes it possible to lower the rod tips to the water as much as possible.
The problem of mixing up neighboring lines is easily solved with back-lead weights.

The different materials from which rod pods are made at different price ranges affect both their cost and their reliability and durability. Also, cheaper rod pods have a smaller range of adjustments (some are not adjustable in length, some have very little adjustment in the height of the buzz bars, and so on).

All rod pods have crossbars, also called “buzz bars” - front and rear. The front buzz bar has a thread for mounting electronic and mechanical signaling devices, the rear buzz bar has a thread for special “backs” that secure the rods by the butt. Buzz bars may or may not be adjustable in width. In some rod pods - for example, Fox Ranger, the rear buzz bar is slightly narrower than the front one, due to which the rods are installed like a fan (this is convenient from a practical point of view).

Photo 4. Alarms on the buzz bar

The buzz bar is usually attached to the rod pod using special stands. The racks are placed in special sockets and fixed there. In order to lower the tips of the rods to the water, the rear buzz bar is installed slightly higher than the front one - this is achieved due to the smaller depth of the posts into the sockets.

These sockets in most rod-pods are located in the crossbar. It can be single or double. The presence of a double crossbar makes the rod-pod more stable.

Photo 5. Fox Ranger rod with double crossbar

The rod-pod supports are attached to the crossbar.

Some rod pod models have a special crossbar design - for example, one of the representatives of such models is Fox Quattro Pod.

Photo 6. Fox Quattro Pod

Typically, the more expensive the pod, the greater the variability of installation it assumes. Variability is important because by customizing the rod pod for a specific situation, it can be installed reliably in any environment. For average fishing conditions, it is quite enough to have a rod-pod, which has legs adjustable in angle and height, and buzz bars adjustable in height.

Rod-pods are produced by many carp tackle manufacturers: Fox, Nash, Daiwa, Cygnet, Spro and others. Some consider the Fox Sky Pod, Fox Ranger Pod, Jag rod-pods to be the best of those currently presented on the Ukrainian market. However, their price is quite high. The Fox company also produces rod-pods in the mid-price category, and even on the verge of budget, such as the Fox Stalker or Fox Eclipse rod-pods. Also, the Nash H-Gun and Nash Pocket Pod rod-pods are not too expensive.

Photo 7. Rod-pod Nash H-Gun
Good rod pods are produced by Cygnet. The photo shows a model that has a wide installation variability, high stability, and at the same time belongs to the middle price segment.

Photo 8. Rod-under Cygnet

Among the budget rod-pods, Carp Pro and Golden Catch rod-pods are popular among our fishermen. These rod-pods are indeed much cheaper than branded ones, but they are also significantly inferior in quality.

Photo 9. Rod-pod Carp Pro

Buzz bar

A buzz bar is a crossbar to which bite alarms and rod holders are attached. Usually two buzz bars are used, one located in the front, the other in the back. On the shore they are installed using racks that are attached to them. The buzz bar is a light and aesthetic design. Some models of buzz bars offer width adjustment, which allows you to install the rods in a wide “fan”.

Photo 10. Buzz bar Cygnet

Buzz bars are quite stable, but can only be used in limited conditions: in the same place where separate racks can be installed. This is the shore of a reservoir, in some cases a walkway (then you need to buy special parts for attaching buzz bars to wooden walkways).

High-quality buzz bars are produced by Jag, but they are not cheap at all.

Photo 11. Buzz bar Fox Black Label

Rod-pod elements can be used in the same way as individual buzz bars with stands.

Separate rod racks

Separate rod racks are also manufactured and used to mount rods on the shore if the conditions of the fishing area allow it. They have appropriate threads for mounting alarms and backdrops, as well as height adjustment. Separate racks are more convenient than a rod-pod, firstly, because they allow the rods to be spaced a considerable distance from each other, and secondly, they take up little space during transportation (unlike a rod-pod). But they are significantly inferior to the rod-pod in functionality.

Photo 12. Chub rod racks

Anastasia Afanasyeva especially forribalkaforum. com

Use of site materials only while maintaining an active link to the source.