The chain is a key element of the transmission unit of a bicycle. Consistently passing through the teeth of the drive stars, it transmits torque to rear wheel, thanks to which the bike moves. During movement, the chain mechanism is subjected to dynamic loads, which eventually leads to its wear.
On singlespeed, as a rule, the chain is designed for its entire service life: when moving along the stars, it runs smoothly and straight, without deviations. The situation is more complicated with chains on multi-speed bicycles: there is no right angle between the front and rear sprockets, which is why it is always located at an angle relative to the frame. The impact on the chain mechanism increases several times compared to parallel transmission, which leads to periodic wear. To avoid damage to the entire transmission unit caused by chain wear, it must be replaced in a timely manner.
Not only “high-speed” chains require removal; quite often they are also removed from single-speed bikes for periodic repairs or cleaning. We will tell you how to remove a chain from a bicycle and put it back in this article.
Symptoms of a problem
First of all, you should pay attention to chain malfunctions on multi-speed bikes. Traditionally, riding time is determined by mileage, but these values are too approximate, because everything depends on the conditions of cycling: the quality of the roads, the selection of gears, speed, the load on the pedals and, accordingly, on the front sprockets.
The first signs of a bicycle chain failure are inaccurate gear shifting and suspicious sounds (provided that the chain has not lost its lubrication). The following method will certainly help you determine the malfunction: bend it away from the largest sprocket and look at the number of free teeth. If the chain moves freely from three or more teeth, replacement is required urgently. Two teeth “warn” that wear is just around the corner, but you can still ride.
Using the same method, you can see if the chain is loose on a single-speed bicycle: bend it away from the front sprocket and look at the number of teeth.
Determination of the degree of attenuation
Another way to determine wear is to measure the length:
- 304.8 mm is the optimal chain length.
- 306.5 – 307.5 – average wear, suitability for repair. You can still drive.
- 308 mm – high degree of wear of both chain and sprockets.
- More than 308 mm – damage to the entire transmission.
Measuring elongation requires removing the chain completely from the bike.
Lock and solid chains
The locking chain is equipped with a special clamping device. It is not difficult to unhook and put it on - you just need to disconnect the lock. To find it, carefully examine the chain on both sides and find a split link. In principle, it will not be difficult to find it on a clean chain: there is a plier on top that fixes the link and does not allow it to move apart. Also, the manufacturer's inscription is usually stamped on the lock link. If you can’t find the lock for a long time, then either the chain is dirty, or it is lockless, or solid.
Bicycle chain with lock
It’s impossible to simply disconnect a bicycle chain without a lock: all the links on it look the same, however, they are also interlocked. This causes great inconvenience during cleaning; for example, it is necessary to carry out “general cleaning” in a solvent. In the case of the keyhole, everything is simple - steal it and put it in kerosene. A solid bicycle chain, even removed from the sprockets, will remain hanging on the frame.
In terms of removal, a chain with a lock is certainly more convenient than its counterpart. However, for some reason the fastening may become loose: the pincer may fly off, and the link itself may come loose. Bicycle chains without locks do not have such weak points, and if it breaks, then the matter is solely in its quality.
Opening the lock and squeezing the link axis
Opening the lock is quite simple: use a screwdriver or other object (for example, a knitting needle) to pry up the pincer clamp. The main thing here is not to damage it, and even better, not to lose it, otherwise you won’t be able to fix the chain later. Next, we uncouple the entire link. That’s it, you can remove the chain and do whatever you want with it: clean it, throw it away or shorten it. However, we'll talk about this a little later.
Lock in disassembled condition
You can disconnect a continuous chain only with a special tool - a squeezer. With its help, you can easily disassemble the link without damage. The procedure is simple, but there is no need to rush:
- First, select a link for disassembly.
- We insert the chain into the position of pressing out and pressing in the pin (link axis).
- We tighten the screw with a handle and pull out the axle. The direction of extrusion is towards the squeeze screw, that is, towards yourself.
You should not remove the pin completely, as it will not be easy to put it back in place later.
Hall chain release device
The release slightly loosens the axle, so when disengaging again, you should select a different link.
Pressing the axle into a link is carried out in the opposite order: connect adjacent links and press the pin with a screw.
Troubleshooting
A common type of wear is sagging of the chain when its length increases relative to the original. Previously, critical values of the length of a bicycle chain were considered at which it cannot be used. Everything is true, but the chain does not have to be thrown away immediately, but can be repaired. Under prolonged loads, the axles become loose, which causes longitudinal and transverse expansion. It is impossible to eliminate the transverse one, but it is quite possible to tinker with the longitudinal one.
The extra links must be removed in such a way that the chain runs smoothly and without tension along the large sprocket. Using a squeezer, excess links are removed, and the axle shafts are completely pulled out from the elements being removed. The main thing here is not to make a mistake and not pull out too many links.
If you have to drive with a stretched chain, then in order to prevent it from falling off, you can install so-called parts that prevent the chain from flying off when driving. There are several types of such devices:
- Roller with two locks.
- With wide casters.
- Frame (or rollerless).
This is what dampers look like on a bike
Using dampers as protection is, of course, good, but it would be better to think about changing the chain.
Installing a chain on a bicycle
To install a chain on a singlespeed, you just need to hang it on both sprockets, press in a pin or snap the lock. With high-speed bikes it will be a little more difficult:
- Fix the derailleurs on the small chainrings.
- Taking into account the location of the tension rollers, put the chain on the sprockets.
- Combine the links.
- Clamp the chain and press in the axle. If the bicycle chain has a lock, we do without squeezing it.
After the installation is completed, you need to check the chain movement: spin the pedals several times. If there is no sagging or difficulty during torsion, then the chain has the optimal length and is installed correctly.
Every owner of a two-wheeled horse can cope with the removal and installation of a bicycle chain. A simple and simple procedure will not take much time, but it will be a great help on future trips!
As I already wrote, bicycle chain - consumables, subject to timely replacement. You can extend its life by regular maintenance. By the way, when installing new system and don’t skimp on cassettes new chain- it will be more expensive!
If you still have a question: “Why do I need to change the chain?”, read about and why it is needed. If there are no more questions left, let's get started.
Bicycle chain with lock
Often, special chain locks are installed on the chain, designed for its quick removal/installation. Locks are produced by almost all chain manufacturers and differ only in the width of the chain (depending on the number of sprockets in the cassette). Using a chain lock has its pros and cons.
+ Advantages of a chain lock
- No additional tools are required to remove/install the chain;
- Makes chain cleaning easier
It is easier to wash a removed chain than one installed on a bicycle. This is especially critical for those who like to wax the chain instead of lubricating it;
- Spare lock
It’s a good idea to have a spare chain lock on the road in case the existing one breaks as the weakest link;
- No repair pin needed
Manufacturers of some chains (for example, shimano) directly indicate in the instructions that after removing the chain, the removed pin cannot be reused for installation. You need to use special repair pins, which cost a lot and are not sold everywhere in Russia;
- Slow movement of multi-speed locks
In reality, not every lock can be removed by hand, without pliers or a special tool for removing the lock. This is especially true for 10- and 11-speed locks;
- Lock failure
The strength of the lock is usually inferior to the strength of ordinary links, and therefore there is a risk of breaking the chain exactly at the place where the lock is installed;
- Broken chain links
Unfortunately, the chain does not always break at the lock, and even in this case, neighboring links may be damaged. In this case, you can no longer do without chain squeezing or artisanal methods;
- A certain number of lock removals/installations
So, the instructions for the KMC lock directly state that it needs to be changed after three installations/removals.
— Disadvantages of a chain lock
By the way! It makes sense to do any operation with a chain, especially on the road, in disposable rubber/latex gloves. Changing a chain without getting dirty will not work, unless you cook it in paraffin.
Bicycle chain without lock
The main device for changing the chain is a bicycle chain. chain squeezing. It is a simple device designed to disconnect and connect chain links by squeezing/pressing a pin.
How to remove a chain by squeezing
It's very simple. I recently performed this operation in just a few minutes with a simple squeeze using a multitool. For some reason, the original KMC chain on the bicycle was without a lock, although the new, similar KMC X9-73 came with a lock.
By the way, before installing the new chain, I had to remove 4 extra links, which in any case will require a squeeze. The remaining links should be left as spares or something like this should be made.
- To disconnect the circuit, you need to press out one selected pin using a squeezer. In this case, you should pay attention that you cannot press out the connecting pin, which is available in some circuits. The connecting pin is different from the rest - so it is quite easy to distinguish it.
Insert the chain link into the tool and secure with the screw. Please note that some chain squeezers have two seats, one space for pressing out the axle (it is located closer to the locking screw), and the second place is used only for adjusting the axle. The chain should be placed closer to the adjusting screw. Carefully tighten the squeeze screw, thereby squeezing out the pin.
- During the pressing process, it is worth checking the alignment: whether the adjusting screw is allowing the link to bend, and whether the tip of the pressing tool is pressing on the pin, and not on the link.
In this case, there should be no distortions or any strange positions of the chain in the squeeze.
- Do not push the pin all the way out if you want to assemble the link with it, otherwise it will be difficult to install it back!
- The chain has been removed.
Remember that each time you press out, you should select a new pin, since the strength of the disconnected and reassembled link is significantly reduced!
- The chain being installed must be suitable in length and width.
The width of the chain depends on the number of sprockets on the cassette: the more sprockets, the narrower the chain. Therefore, be careful and do not buy a 10-speed chain for a 7-speed cassette!
Length adjustment is carried out by removing excess links from the chain in the manner described above. Please note: if you are going to use a chain lock, you need to remove 1 more link.
If a repair pin was included with the chain, or you bought it separately, we use it. Otherwise, we press in the existing pin.
- To install the chain, move the front and rear derailleurs to the smallest sprockets.
Then thread the chain through the derailleur frame. Be careful not to mix up the directions: the upper roller of the chain runs on the right, and the lower roller on the left.
- We connect the open links and install a pin.
We insert the link into the chain squeezer and secure it with a fixing screw. By rotating the chain release handle, press the pin into place; it should be even with the edges of the chain. Remove the chain from the wringer and, if necessary, break off the end of the repair pin.
- Check that this chain link bends freely.
If it moves tightly, you need to adjust the link with a squeeze. Insert the link into the second squeeze seat (farthest from the adjusting screw), and push the pin just a little in the opposite direction. If there is no second seat in the squeeze, simply knead the link with your hands.
How to install a chain by squeezing
Sometimes there are times when you just need to remove bicycle chain. This is, for example, if it is stretched and you need to dismantle one or more links. Or you just decided to thoroughly clean it of dirt (which is what we will do today). And this is not difficult if it has a special removable chain lock, but what to do with a chain that does not have one? Today we will look at how to remove a chain using an example.
Chain components
Before we talk about how to remove a chain, it is important that you understand what we are talking about. To do this, below we will provide an explanatory picture with the constituent elements.
Clean the chain before removing
We put the chain on the middle sprockets (for example, 2 - 5). Take an old dirty rag. We wrap the chain and rotate the pedals back. It will not be possible to achieve perfect cleaning, because some of the oil and dirt is on the sprockets and when rotating, it again sticks to the chain. Therefore, we stop rotating the pedals and clear a small gap (10-20 cm) between the stars. In this section we will disconnect the bicycle chain.
Squeeze out the pin
I use the cheapest chain squeezer available (about $4) and it does the job just fine.
We insert the link into the grooves (as in the picture), tighten it with a clamping bolt (it has a spring-loaded rod in the middle, where the pin will come out) and squeeze out the pin. You should act carefully so that the release rod hits the pin clearly. There is no need to rush and in case of failure, you should correct the chain and repeat the procedure.
After you have set everything correctly, we begin to carefully rotate the knob clockwise. If you do not need to dismantle the link, but just want to disconnect the chain, then the pin should not be pushed out completely. Initially it will be tight, then a little easier, and at the end it will be tight again. Here on last stage you should slow down and act carefully so as not to push out the pin completely (inserting it back will be problematic). You can safely remove the squeeze and see how much more you need to rotate the handle.
After this, we disconnect the chain (you should remember that the chain is under tension, and so that it does not fly away and scratch your bike stays, you should hold it).
Cleaning the chain, front and rear sprockets
After you have removed the chain, you can safely attach it to various water procedures. If a soap solution is used (this also includes other detergents/cleaning agents), after cleaning it should be rinsed thoroughly with clean water. Upon completion of the cleaning stage, we send it to dry. There are no special problems with cleaning the stars either. Please note the following if your bike disc brakes, then the disc must first be removed from the wheel so that when cleaning the cassette, oil and dirt do not fly onto it (if this is not done, you will also have to degrease the brake disc). We rinse everything with clean water and wait until it dries.
Putting the chain back
We pass the chain between the rollers of the rear derailleur and do not forget about the frame of the front derailleur. In the picture we show how the bicycle chain should be positioned.
We insert the links into each other (if everything was done correctly at the disconnection stage, then the chain should hold).
After this, we inspect the junction. The pin should come out evenly from both sides of the chain. We check the link, it should move without any effort (like all the others). After that, all that remains is to lubricate the chain and enjoy cycling.
Conclusion
In this article, you fully learned how to remove a bicycle chain that does not have a lock. Having completed all the operations, you can safely dismantle the chain without fear of incorrect actions.
This is one of the main elements of the transmission unit. It transmits torque to the rear wheel from the drive sprocket. This is what makes the bike move. During travel, it becomes clogged, stretched, and wears out. It must be removed periodically for cleaning and lubrication. And if it is stretched, then the chain on the bicycle will need to be replaced.
Removing a bicycle chain with a lock
On singlespeed and multi-speed bikes, the dismantling process is identical. If the bike has a bicycle chain with a lock, then removing it for cleaning, shortening or replacing is easy. The entire removal process takes just a few minutes.
How to remove a bicycle chain with a lock? To do this, you first need to find a link with a clamp. To do this, you need to carefully examine it from both sides. If it is not very dirty, the lock link can be found almost immediately. There is an inscription stamped on it and a special clip is put on top, which holds the adjacent links. If, upon careful inspection, the lock is not found, then your lock is solid.
Locks from different manufacturers are slightly different, but the removal process is similar. You need to close the adjacent axes together and remove the clamp. You can pry the lock with a screwdriver or any other pointed object. If you still can’t pry the latch, you can use special pliers to open the locks. It is important here not to damage the clamp or lose it, otherwise you will not be able to install the bicycle chain back.
A lockless one is much more difficult to remove. To do this, you will need a special puller - a chain squeezer. You can, of course, remove it without tools. For example, placing the axle on the edge of something solid. Next, using a regular knitting needle, tap the axle (pin) and separate the links. However, it will not be possible to connect them this way. You will still need a puller for this.
To do this, select any link, insert it into the puller, placing it directly opposite the release axis, and secure it with a screw. Next, slowly turn the screw, thereby squeezing out the pin. It is important not to push the axle out completely. Otherwise, it is almost impossible to install it in place later.
If you are installing a new bicycle chain, you should first check whether it matches your bike in length and width. If it does not fit in width, then it cannot be installed on this bike. But the length is easy to adjust. To do this, it is enough to remove the extra links using a squeeze.
If you have, then for installation you need to fix the rear and front speed derailleurs on the smallest sprockets. After this, pass the chain through the derailleur tension frame so that the upper roller passes it on the right, and the lower one on the left. Then you connect the extreme links and insert the pin. After putting on the chain, insert the axle into the squeeze, fix it with a screw and press the pin. When installed correctly, it should be completely flush with the edges of the chain. After this, take it out of the squeeze and break off the end of the axle (if there was one).
It is very important to check the chain movement after installing the pin in place. It should not sag, the pedals should scroll freely. If it walks slowly and bends poorly, then using the same puller, using the second seat, you need to adjust the axis.
If you urgently need to remove a bicycle chain, but don’t have a puller, don’t worry. You can use the old “old-fashioned” method - rivet it, and then rivet it back.
When removing a solid bicycle chain repeatedly, make sure that different links are used each time, since the process of squeezing them out loosens them a little.
If you plan to do it often, it’s easier to install a lock on it. This will make the process of removing and installing it back much easier for you.
