Overcoming your fear, you climb up and forward along the rock.
And if your first clumsy steps on a rock route caused tenderness (as when you see a baby taking its first steps in life), now it's time to hone your skills, turning it into professionalism.
The “delicious candy” reward will be a rank that can only be obtained by participating in competitions.
As in many sports highest rank in rock climbing he is an international master of sports.
You need to start the path to such a title from the third category, then second, first, master of sports and master of sports.
It is quite easy to get to the candidate for master of sports, the main thing is desire. As well as participation in competitions, even at the city level you can achieve decent results.
The discharge can serve as motivation to become interested in this sport if you are obsessed with sports interest. Although, in addition to the sporting direction, rock climbing can also be distinguished as simply recreational, as well as extreme.
How climbers compete
Exists gradation of rock routes.
Difficulty determined an Arabic numeral and three English letters (A, B, C).
Route category determined by the complexity and duration of the rock routes. For example, 3A represents vertical wall with convenient holds, a route of category 7A should be easily handled by KMS, and a route 9A can be handled by a very big professional.
Sports competitions that take place on artificial species reliefs (), are quite an interesting and vibrant sight. They can be for speed, for difficulty, so-called bouldering and work in conjunction.
- Compete for speed You can do it individually, in pairs or even in a relay race.
This is a spectacle worth seeing with your own eyes: when climbers perform complex coordination movements at maximum speed.
After what you saw, you yourself want to rush along the rock: after all, it’s not weak and from the outside everything is so easy!
Of course, quite easy routes are laid out for such competitions. The top insurance applies.
- Difficulty competition are done individually.
This is due to the fact that the routes are complex and long. The climber receives a grade for the height of the climb. .
There are two types of difficulty competitions: on-sight And afterwork.
In the first In this case, the athlete passes the route for the first time, without prior acquaintance with it.
In the second– the first meeting with the route takes place before the competition, that is, the route is worked out in advance.
But don't be fooled by the thought that the afterwork option makes life much easier for the participants: the rock will not reveal all its secrets on one date.
- Bouldering- a relatively young direction in sport climbing.
It began to develop somewhere in the 90s of the last century. However, now it is finding more and more adherents.
For competitions of this type climbing wall required. The routes are difficult, but the highlight is the complete lack of insurance. The height of the route is up to 5 meters, below there are mats and complete freedom.
It is believed that in bouldering the skill of an athlete-climber is demonstrated even better than in difficulty competitions.
- Linking competitions more associated with climbers.
Two rock climbers must complete a route for a while or cover a certain height on a rocky route within a certain time. Coherence in the work and movements of both climbers is important here. Competitions are held according to the rules of mountaineering.
But in order to take part in competitions and achieve ranks, you need (no matter how trite it sounds) to work, work and work on coordination of movements. And - how morning exercises– regularly. And you shouldn’t make sad faces, because you can also have fun.
Climbing technique
Each sport has a set of specific human predispositions towards this particular sport. Rock climbing was not spared this either.
Here too many nuances In addition to height and weight, the length and thickness of fingers and toes, flexibility and stretch, as well as tenacity are important.
But don't give up on your dream of climbing a difficult 9A route just because your fingers are short. There is such a thing as " rock climbing technique" This is your key to success.
To master the “sense of relief” you just need to climb a lot, gaining the number of completed (even very simple!) routes.
Walking out onto the rock, imagine the simplest way climbing – like up the stairs. Arms and legs work. So let’s look at techniques for arms and legs in rock climbing.
Be sure to watch the professional climbers, mentally choosing a route (how would I go?). And believe in your climbing talent!
Technique hand work is to grab clues:
- above;
- below;
- from the side.
- all fingers;
- with one or two fingers.
Grip May be:
- open (fingers slightly bent);
- closed (fingers bent, used for small holds);
- pick-up (the hold looks down, the palm is gathered into a handful).
Technique footwork more diverse. However, there are basic techniques:
- step-up (with the help of the strength of the thigh you can reach the hold, a technique of a tough climber);
- rolling on the leg (like “sitting on the leg”, the pros even manage to rest like this);
- spreader (classic of the genre, if between two rocks or in a right corner);
- frog (requires excellent hip stretching).
With these techniques you will develop excellent flexibility, achieve incredible stretching.
Having taken the first confident step vertically, you will want to take a second, even more confident one. Having overcome the easy route, your legs and arms will be asked to move on to a more difficult route.
Or maybe you are destined to become an international master of sports in rock climbing?
Video
Get in the bouldering spirit:
Bit requirements(norms) - a system of characteristics that determine the qualifications of a climber, in which the necessary set of ascents and requirements is determined, upon fulfillment of which the climber is assigned a particular rank or title.
Attempts to establish a system of signs that determine the qualifications of a climber relate to 1934 When were the badges established? "Mountaineer of the USSR" I and II degrees and personal titles "Master of Mountaineering" And "Honored Master of Mountaineering".
Only in 1949 rank standards for mountaineering were included in the Unified All-Union sports classification. Subsequently, by analogy with other sports, it was supplemented with the rank of candidate master of sports of the USSR and the title of international master of sports. For outstanding achievements and sporting feats, climbers may be awarded the title “Honored Master of Sports of the USSR.” This title, for example, was awarded sports staff Soviet expedition "Himalaya-82".
The basis of the rank standards is the principle of gradual systematic accumulation personal experience climbing to peaks of increasing difficulty.
The procedure for assigning ranks, their confirmation, documentation, and in certain cases, deprivation or reduction of a sports rank are regulated by relevant regulations and instructions.
Mountaineering is a non-Olympic sport. Grade standards and requirements are established for a period of 4 years.
Sports categories are assigned from the age of 16, youth - from the age of 14.
Discharge standards 2006. Explanations
Approved by the Federal Agency for physical culture and sports(Order of Rossport dated June 5, 2006, No. 331)
MOUNTAINEERING. Rank standards. Explanations.
Compiled by V.N.Shataev
Difficulty, requirements and number of climbs when performing sports categories:
3rd rank: men and women: 2B - 1, 2A - 2
2nd rank: men and women: 3B - 2, 3A - 3
1st category: men: 4A in double - 1, 4B in double - 1, 5A - 3 (with one being combined (snow-ice, winter) women: 5A - 2
Candidate Master of Sports (CMS): men: 5A in doubles - 1, 5B - 2 (with one being combined (ice-snow, winter), 6A - 1 women: 5B - 2
Master of Sports (MS): men: take 1st or 2nd (twice) place at the Russian Championship or score 25 points, including 6 points in the Czech Republic. Have a 6B category climb. sl. women: take 1st or 2nd or 3rd (twice) place at the Russian Championship or score 12 points, including 3 points at the Russian Championship. Have a climb of 6A difficulty category.
International Master of Sports of Russia (MSMK): men: take 1st place at the Russian Championship three times. Have 3 ascents of 6B difficulty category, women: take 1st place twice at the Russian Championship. Have 2 ascents of 6B difficulty category.
From the draft Mountaineering Rules:
«… 3. Norms and requirements for assignment sports titles and categories, conditions for their implementation.
3.1. Group I competitions include the Russian Championship, subject to completing at least 5 routes of 5B and higher in the class, including three 6th or 5B (first ascent) difficulty categories.
3.2. Group II competitions include the championships of the federal administrative districts of the Russian Federation. Moscow, St. Petersburg and the CIS, subject to completing at least 5 routes of 5B and higher in the class, including 2 routes of the 6th or 5B (first ascent) difficulty category.
3.3. points for competitions: Group I - 1st place - 10 points, 2nd place - 8 points, 3rd place - 7 points, 4th place - 6 points, 5th place - 5 points, 6th place - 4 points, 7th place - 3 points, 8th place - 2 points, 9th place - 1 point. Group II - 1st place - 5 points, 2nd place - 4 points, 3rd place - 3 points, 4th place - 2 points, 5th place - 1 point.
3.3. When the number of routes in groups I – II is reduced according to clause 3.1. and 3.2. the number of points is successively reduced by one point.
3.4. TO competition III groups include all other competitions.
3.5. Points for ascents 5B - 6B: - for difficulty category: 5B - 1 point; 6A - 2 points; 6B - 3 points; - for ascents: in pairs, first ascent, winter and high altitude (from 6900m) - 1 point each.
3.6. For the assignment of sports categories and titles, routes included in the “Classification” book are accepted, provided that ascents are carried out within the framework of registered mountaineering events and unconditional compliance with the “Rules”.
3.7. To assign the titles of MSMK and MS, points scored in competitions and for ascents within four calendar years at the time of awarding the title are taken into account.
3.8. The title of MSMK and MS is awarded to athletes who have a previous title or rank.
3.9. Points for places taken in competitions are awarded for ascents of at least 5B difficulty category.
3.10. An ascent that was previously included in the calculation when assigning a rank (title) is not taken into account when registering a subsequent rank (title).
3.11. If routes are combined at one point of the Classification, one of them is accepted for classification; traverses count towards discharge in any one direction; in the Crimean Mountains, only one climbing route can be accepted for each sports category (title)..."
Climbing events are not accepted for sports classification:
If it is committed in violation of the Rules;
If information about them has not been received by the FAR;
The category requirements were approved by the State Committee of the Russian Federation for Physical Culture and Tourism and have been in effect since September 1, 2001.
Master of Sports of Russia of international class.
Men - score 30 points for placing at the Russian Championship and have 3 ascents (first ascent, winter, high-altitude) of 6B difficulty category.
Women - score 20 points for placing at the Russian Championship and have a climb of 6B difficulty category.
Master of Sports of Russia
Men - take 1st place at the Russian Championship; twice 2nd-3rd place at the Russian Championship; score 20 points, including 6 points for placing at the Russian Championship and have a climb of 6B difficulty category. Women - score 15 points, including 6 points for placing in competitions of groups I-II and have a climb of 6A difficulty category.
Competition points
I group of competitions: 1st place - 10 points, 2nd - 8, 3rd - 6, 4th - 5, 5th - 4, 6th - 3, 7th - 2, 8th - 1.
II group of competitions: 1st place - 5 points, 2nd - 4, 3rd - 3, 4th - 2, 5th - 1.
Notes:
Group I competitions include the Russian Championship, subject to completing at least 5 routes in the class, including at least three 6th or 5B (first ascent) difficulty categories.
Group II competitions include: regional championships (Central Russia, Southern Russia, the Urals, Siberia and the Far East, the Caucasus) of the CIS and the cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg, subject to completing at least 5 routes in the class, including at least 3 -x routes of 6th or 5B (first ascent) difficulty category.
When the number of routes in groups I-II decreases, the number of points is successively reduced by one point
Group III competitions include all other competitions
Points for ascents 5B - 6B
Difficulty and number of climbs when performing sports categories
- Candidate for Master of Sports:
- I category:
- II category:
- III category:
- Badge "Russian Climber":
- I youth category - have the “Russian Mountaineer” badge;
- II youth category - have a mountain hike with climbing a non-category peak.
men: 6A - 1; 5B - 2; 5Ad - 1;
women: 5B - 3;
men: 5A - 2; 4Bd - 1, 4Ad - 1;
women: 5A - 2, 4B - 1;
ZB - 2; FOR - 3;
2B - 1; 2A - 2;
Note: "d" - ascents in twos.
Ice terrain (ice climbing)
It is necessary to take the following places in competitions of the corresponding rank:CMS: Group 1 - 1-3 places for difficulty.
I category: 1st group - 4-6 places for difficulty, 1-3 places for speed; Group 2 - 1-3 places for difficulty, 1 place for speed.
II category: 2nd group - 4-6 places for difficulty, 2-3 places for speed; Group 3 - 1st place for difficulty.
III category: 2nd group - 7-9 places for difficulty, 4-6 places for speed; Group 3 - 2-3 places for difficulty, 1-3 places for speed.
Conditions for meeting discharge standards
1.
For the assignment of sports categories and titles, only routes included in the book “Classification of Routes to Mountain Peaks” (Classification) are accepted, provided that ascents are carried out within the framework of registered mountaineering events and compliance with the “Rules for Ascents in Mountains”.
2.
Ascents are not taken into account for sports categories and titles if information about them has not been received by the Russian Mountaineering Federation.
3.
To assign the titles of MSMK and MS, points scored in competitions and ascents over the last four calendar years at the time of awarding the title are taken into account.
4.
The title of MSMK is awarded to athletes who have the title of MS.
5.
I - III places taken in group 1 count toward the MS, provided they complete a route of at least 6A difficulty category; mastery points for places taken in competitions are awarded for ascents of at least 5B difficulty category.
6.
To assign the category of Master of Sports, one route of difficulty category 5B and higher - “combined”, “ice-snow” - is accepted for testing. "ice" or traveled in winter; for 1 category - one “combined” route of 5A difficulty category.
7.
The ascent report is accepted for consideration only in one competition.
8.
Climbings that were previously included in the ranking when assigning a rank (title) are not taken into account when registering a subsequent rank (rank).
9.
If routes are combined at one point of the Classification, one of them is accepted for classification; traverses count towards discharge in any one direction; in the Crimean Mountains, only one climbing route can be accepted for credit for each sports category (title).
10.
Sports categories are assigned from the age of 16, youth - from the age of 14.
Rank standards for mountaineering
The Unified All-Union Sports Classification establishes rank standards and requirements, the conditions for their implementation and the procedure for assigning titles and ranks to athletes. The main purpose of the system of sports ranks and titles in mountaineering is to promote the achievement of physical perfection, readiness to work and defend the Motherland, the growth of mass mountaineering and stimulating the improvement of the skills of climbers. The level and consistency of the rank standards should contribute to the improvement of training and growth of sportsmanship of climbers, their education in the spirit of communist morality and adherence to sports ethics, successful training and growth of sportsmanship of climbers, their education in the spirit of communist morality and adherence to sports ethics, successful preparation for competitions. Mountaineering is a non-Olympic sport supervised by the USSR State Sports Committee. Grade standards and requirements are established for a period of 4 years (1989-1992, etc.).
Attempts to establish a system of signs that determine the qualifications of a mountaineer date back to 1934, when the “Mountaineer of the USSR” badges of 1st and 2nd degrees and the personal titles “Master of Mountaineering” and “Honored Master of Mountaineering” were established. Only in 1949 were category standards for mountaineering included in the Unified All-Union Sports Classification. Subsequently, by analogy with other sports, it was supplemented with the rank of candidate master of sports of the USSR and the title of international master of sports. For outstanding achievements and sporting feats, climbers may be awarded the title “Honored Master of Sports of the USSR.” This title, for example, was awarded to the sports personnel of the Soviet expedition "Himalayas-82".
And the "USSR Climber" badge is awarded to a person who has completed training under the program initial training and who climbed the qualifying peak along the route 1B category of difficulty (c.s.).
The rank standards are based on the principle of gradual systematic accumulation of personal experience in climbing to the peaks of an increasing category of difficulty.
As the general sports level of Soviet climbers grows, methods of comprehensive sports training, mastering new tactical and technical techniques and special equipment, discharge standards are being revised. The content of training programs and the “Rules of Mountain Climbing” are changing accordingly. This happens taking into account pressing needs and specific conditions.
In addition to fixing the number of ascents of various categories of difficulty, individual additional requirements are introduced into the rank standards that meet the period of development of mountaineering (making first ascents, having instructor qualifications, winter and high-altitude ascents, ascents in various mountain regions of the country, the nature of the routes - rocky, combined, ice-snow ).
The system of rank standards has two internal contradictions. Fulfilling the standards up to and including the candidate master is actually combined with the educational and training process. Almost every ascent is both learning and a step towards fulfilling the category. The only exceptions are such as the first ascent of the season, ascents of similarity, and ascents of instructors with departments. There are no substantiated ways to resolve this contradiction yet. The second contradiction lies in the absence of a single principle: ranks up to candidate master are assigned based on a set of routes completed, and the titles of masters of sports of the USSR and international class are assigned based on points, some of which must be obtained in competitions. The presence of two concepts reflects the contradictory nature of mountaineering as a sport, the contradictory nature of our attempts to classify mountain climbing only as a sporting phenomenon.
Overall a dynamic system discharge standards aimed at increasing the level sports results, achieving a qualification level of training that corresponds to the immediate tasks of the new level, increasing the safety of ascents; helps to improve the organization and methodology of comprehensive training of an athlete, regulate the quality and level of mountaineering competitions.
The procedure for assigning ranks, their confirmation, documentation, and in certain cases, deprivation or reduction of a sports rank are regulated by relevant regulations and instructions.
Approved by the State Committee of the Russian Federation for Physical Culture and Tourism and valid since September 1, 2001.
Requirements for performing categories in mountaineering.
Difficulty and number of climbs when performing sports categories:Badge "Russian Climber":
1B - 1
III category:
2B - 1; 2A - 2;
II category:
ZB - 2; FOR - 3;
I category:
men: 5A - 2; 4Bd - 1, 4Ad - 1;
women: 5A - 2, 4B - 1;
Candidate for Master of Sports:
men: 6A - 1; 5B - 2; 5Ad - 1;
women: 5B - 3;
Master of Sports of Russia:
Men - take 1st place at the Russian Championship; twice 2nd-3rd place at the Russian Championship; score 20 points, including 6 points for placing at the Russian Championship and have a climb of 6B difficulty category.
Women - score 15 points, including 6 points for placing in competitions of groups I-II and have a climb of 6A difficulty category.
International Master of Sports of Russia:
Men - score 30 points for placing at the Russian Championship and have 3 ascents (first ascent, winter, high-altitude) of 6B difficulty category.
Women - score 20 points for placing at the Russian Championship and have a climb of 6B difficulty category.
Note:
"d" - ascents in twos.
Competition points:
I group of competitions: 1st place - 10 points, 2nd - 8, 3rd - 6, 4th - 5, 5th - 4, 6th - 3, 7th - 2, 8th - 1.
II group of competitions: 1st place - 5 points, 2nd - 4, 3rd - 3, 4th - 2, 5th - 1.
- Group I competitions include the Russian Championship, subject to completing at least 5 routes in the class, including at least three 6th or 5B (first ascent) difficulty categories.
- Group II competitions include: regional championships (Center of Russia, South of Russia, Urals, Siberia and the Far East, Caucasus) of the CIS and Moscow and St. Petersburg, subject to completing at least 5 routes in the class, including at least 3 routes of 6th or 5B (first ascent) difficulty category.
- When the number of routes in groups I-II is reduced, the number of points is successively reduced by one point
- Group III competitions include all other competitions
Points for ascents 5B - 6B:
- for category of difficulty: 5B - 0.5 points; 6A - 1.5 points; 6B - 3 points
- for ascent in pairs, first ascent, winter and high altitude (from 6900 m) - 1 point each.
CONDITIONS for meeting discharge standards
1. For the assignment of sports categories and titles, only routes included in the book “Classification of Routes to Mountain Peaks” (Classification) are accepted, provided that ascents are carried out within the framework of registered mountaineering events and compliance with the “Rules for Ascents in Mountains”.
2. Ascents are not taken into account for sports categories and titles if information about them has not been received by the Russian Mountaineering Federation.
3. To assign the titles of MSMK and MS, points scored in competitions and ascents over the last four calendar years at the time of awarding the title are taken into account.
4. The title of MSMK is awarded to athletes who have the title of MS.
5. I - III places taken in group 1 count toward the MS, provided they complete a route of at least 6A difficulty category; mastery points for places taken in competitions are awarded for ascents of at least 5B difficulty category.
6. To be awarded the category of Master of Sports, one route of difficulty category 5B and higher - “combined”, “ice and snow” - is accepted for testing. “ice” or traveled in winter; for 1 category - one “combined” route of 5A difficulty category.
7. The ascent report is accepted for consideration only in one competition.
8. Climbings that were previously included in the ranking when assigning a rank (title) are not taken into account when registering a subsequent rank (rank).
9. If routes are combined at one point of the Classification, one of them is accepted for classification; traverses count towards discharge in any one direction; in the Crimean Mountains, only one climbing route can be accepted for credit for each sports category (title).
10. Sports categories are assigned from the age of 16, youth categories - from the age of 14.
|
This information is intended for mountain climbers who climb in registered AM (climbing events), according to the rules and at the end of the season, want to obtain a sports rank. Therefore, I remind you of the requirements so that there are no misunderstandings in the fall. Please note that it is important not only to make ascents, but also to pass tests, and passing the test is confirmed by an entry in the climber’s book and the AM seal.
1. To apply for 3 certificates of mountaineering, you need:
1.1.age – not younger than 16 years,
1.1. have the “Russian Mountaineer” badge and a certificate of recommendation for further mountaineering, age – not younger than 14 years;
1.2. go through a cycle of training sessions in accordance with the training program for climbers etatpt NP.
1.3. make 4 (four) ascents: 1B, 2A, 2A, 2B as part of the training department.
2.For registration of 2 sp.r. for mountaineering you need:
2.1. age – not younger than 16 years,
2.2. have a completed and confirmed 3 sp.r. in mountaineering, i.e. classification ticket,
2.3. undergo a cycle of training sessions in accordance with the training program for climbers of the SP stage,
2.4. make 6 (six) ascents: 3A, 3A, 3A, 3B, 3B as part of the training department, leading an ascent of category 2.
2.5. pass the test on the topic: “Competition rules, classification of routes, organization and conduct of ascents”,
2.6. pass the test on the topic: “Providing first pre-hospital medical aid in complex cases of injury and illness”, entry in the climber’s book with the AM stamp,
2.7. pass the test on the topic: “Transportation of the victim on various mountainous terrain using improvised means” entry in the climber’s book with the AM stamp.
3.For registration of 1 sp.r. for mountaineering it is necessary:
3.1.have a completed and confirmed 2nd sports category in mountaineering;
have a positive reference-recommendation from the instructor (trainer) of the department of the previous stage for further mountaineering;
pass the test on the topic “movement techniques and belaying the rope on difficult snowy terrain”, n and based on the commission’s protocol, an entry is made in the “climber’s book” about admission to the first ascent of category 5A of difficulty with the AM stamp;
pass the test on the topic “working as a pair on difficult terrain and assisting a teammate alone” to enter a route in a pair; entry in the climber's book with AM stamp;
make 7 (seven) ascents:
Men: 1*4A, 1*4B, 2*5A in a group (one of them is combined, or winter, or ice); 1*4A, 1*4B in a pair, management on the route 3rd category;
Women: 2*4A, 2*4B, 2*5A in a group (one of them is combined, or winter, or ice); management on route 3rd category;
4. To complete the CMS in mountaineering you must:
4.1.have a formalized and confirmed 1st sports category in mountaineering;
4.2. have a positive recommendation from the instructor (trainer) of the department of the previous stage for further mountaineering;
4.3. make ascents:
Men: 2*5B in a group (one of them is combined, or winter, or ice); 1*5A in double, 6A;
Woman: 2*5B in a group (one of them is a combination, or winter, or ice);
5. Climbing not accepted for the sports category:
5.1.if it was committed in violation of the Rules;
5.2.if information about them was not received by the FAR in the reports on alpine activities;
5.3 if the ascent is made alone (solo).
6.For registration sports category documents must be submitted to the appropriate sports organization no later than three months from the date of execution.
7. Any sports category confirmed at least once every two years.
Knyazeva Marina, instructor 2nd category, CMS in mountaineering.
