I made the “Perch-Lite” popper specifically for fishing with my ultralight spinning rod for catching perch on the surface of the water. My spinning rod is from 0 to 5 grams, and these are the criteria I adhered to (size, weight, volatility, stability in the game and starting the game with half a turn, low cost, reliability and ease of manufacture).

To be honest, the popper has shown itself to be excellent in catching perch and pike from the surface of reservoirs, and what is especially important is that it can be placed in hard-to-reach places and carried through a place overgrown with grass and algae, where, as you know, toothy predators and striped robbers like to live.

Materials and tools for making the “Perch Light” popper

• A foam rectangle measuring 25 mm in length and 20 mm in height and width, medium elasticity.
• Super glue.
• Epoxy resin.
• Tee hook.
• Swivels 2 pcs.
• Winding ring.
• Two lead pellets weighing 0.6 grams.
• Awl, needle or pin.
• Stationery knife.
• Needle file.
• Sandpaper, not fine abrasive
• Multi-colored manicure polishes and cured polish.

Manufacturing method

We take a piece of polystyrene foam prepared in advance to size and cut off the excess ends. We smooth the surface of the workpiece with sandpaper, and using a stationery knife, cut out a notch at the front of the number. It will serve us as a sound chamber and we smooth its surface with sandpaper.

Using an awl, make holes along the horizontal axis of the popper.

The smaller angle of the head will serve as the bottom, we make two holes at the bottom for lead pellets (niches), this will serve as a balance for our popper, no matter what position it is in, it will still adhere to a strictly defined slope.

After we have cleaned the workpiece and made holes, we cover the surface with super glue, since the glue is perfectly absorbed into the foam and hardens when dried, and its resistance to water is colossal.

After the glue has dried, use epoxy resin to glue two swivels along the edges and insert the pellets into the prepared grooves, and cover the top with epoxy resin.

Painting the ultralight popper

We give time for everything to dry, clean the surface of the hardened resin with a file and sandpaper and paint as indicated in the photo. This is not the only color. The one that I have now is the one that is often used, and I have two colors: red - silver and fiery yellow - dark green.

After drying and applying the varnish fixative, leave the product to dry. After drying the rear swivel with the help of a winding ring, the hand-made fishing spinning bait “Perch Light” is ready.

Its length is 25 mm and its weight is 2.67 grams.

Use for fishing and posting bait

It is advisable to use it in combination with an ultralight spinning rod, reels size 1000, and fishing line 0.20 - 0.25 mm with a fluorocarbon leader. Depending on the pace of the game, conduct fishing maneuvers from above. That is, up the rod with frequent twitching from side to side or low (smooth). Rod down and a slight twitch of the rod tip, and, of course, the middle, as stated (middle).

Good luck with your fishing, experiment, make crafts, and keep your fishing line tight.

Ryabush Yuri - Especially for the site SamodelkiFISH, Rivne, Ukraine

One of the best spinning baits for surface fishing for predatory fish is a popper.

This attachment is easy to make with your own hands.

What kind of gear is this?

In spinning fishing in recent years, the dominant type of bait has become. Artificial fish are made in various modifications; they are capable of descending into the deepest holes or luring a predator to the surface.

One of the varieties of wobblers loved by spinning anglers has become. This superficial one is an oblong cylindrical fish with a concave nose. During a jerky stroke, the popper makes gurgling sounds and produces fountains of splashes like a follower of the butterfly swimming style.

The bait is most often used when fishing in grassy areas of a reservoir to lure fish from the algae to the surface. At the same time, many baits break off when caught on underwater obstacles.

Since the cost of a popper is quite high, and several models are required for fishing, many people make them with their own hands.

Making a popper with your own hands

There are several approaches to making homegrown poppers. Some of them are modifications of some fishing (and not only) accessories, while other products are made from scratch.

From the float

Many of us can find several abandoned floats in a fishing box or box. Some of them are quite suitable for turning into poppers.

For example, for perch fishing, you can make a surface bait from a match float of length 50 mm and thickness 9-11 mm. It is not so important what symbols are on the body of the float, the main thing is that its shape is similar to a popper. To work you will need a jigsaw, knife, wire, glue and a treble hook.

From a tree knot

It is not always possible to have an unnecessary float with the required dimensions at hand. After all, larger baits are needed.

You can make these poppers from natural wood. And in order to have less trouble with processing, you need to arm yourself with a caliper or ruler and choose a knot of an acceptable size. If a length of 50-60 mm is enough for a perch, then for a pike the bait should be 70-80 mm, and for a trophy predator - 100-110 mm. Ash, linden or birch are suitable materials.

There are many ways to increase your fish catch, but the most effective ones are. Below the site editors share with you the 3 most in effective ways increase in catch:

1. Electronic bait. Unlike conventional bait, which activates taste buds, electronic bait sharpens other types of nerve cells.
2. The new generation bite activator is no less effective. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the new product for 2019 - Fish XXL.
3. Learning different fishing techniques. For example, read about fishing techniques and fishing.

To make a bait you will need wire, a sharp knife, glue, sandpaper, paints and varnishes and tees with winding rings.

1. First, using a knife, file or emery, the required body shape is given. The tail part is made narrow, and an oblique cut is made in the head area.
2. All irregularities and roughness of the natural material are removed using sandpaper.
3. It is important to make a recess in the front part; a large drill or a table knife with a rounded tip is suitable for this.
4. An axial hole is made along the body of the bait using a thin and long drill. A wire structure will pass through it. In addition, when making a medium and large popper, provision should be made for installing an additional tee in the belly area. A neat hole is also made here.
5. The wire is folded into a loop on one side, and the straight end is pulled through the body. After this, an eyelet is made from the other edge. The same loop is screwed into the belly; you can first install a hook in the eye.
6. It is best to fix the wire structure with glue; be sure to soak the wood in drying oil and paint it.
7. After drying, a second tee with a front sight is mounted into the tail loop using a winding ring.

Transparent popper made from cork and syringe

A homemade popper with a rattle made from a medical syringe looks completely unusual. Since you can buy several disposable syringes at the pharmacy that differ in size, you get a whole arsenal of inexpensive poppers.
In addition to the syringe for making bait you will need:

The work consists of several simple steps:

1. The first step is to disassemble the syringe. After this, the spout is dismantled with a knife, and the ends of the stem are cut off.
2. It is necessary to cut out two unique plugs from the wine cork, the thickness of which is selected to match the inner diameter of the syringe. For precise work with a sharp knife, it is better to first mark the cork with a ballpoint pen.
3. One of the cork cylinders should be pierced with a wire and pushed inside the syringe until it stops. The end of the wire should come out.
4. The middle part of the rod is placed inside the syringe, and the balls from the bearing are placed in the resulting 4 sectors.
5. The second plug is also pierced with wire and inserted into the head part.
6. Using a drill, a through oblique hole is made through the belly of the future popper and the plug. Another piece of wire is pulled into it.
7. Using pliers, all that remains is to make three loops. A fishing line will be attached to the front one, and winding rings and tees will be installed in the back and belly eyelets. In addition, you can decorate the hooks with flies or strips of multi-colored foil.

The imagination of fishermen sometimes knows no limits.

To create a popper, both familiar materials and completely exotic things can be used.

With a creative approach to the manufacturing process, a catchy one can be obtained even from unusual objects.

However only the predator will judge which of the fishermen will be right when creating a homemade popper.

Useful video

Video on how to make a catchy popper with your own hands:

Video about making a popper from a birch block with your own hands:

For quite a long time, anglers have had baits such as poppers in their arsenals. This tackle shows excellent results when fishing for pike, therefore it has become widespread among fishermen in our country.

In specialized stores you can purchase a variety of poppers for every color and taste. However, for anglers who like to put their hands to it, I want to offer an example of a popper from a disposable pharmacy syringe.

At minimal cost you can get a homemade, fairly decent catchable popper.

To make a syringe popper you will need the following materials:

• syringe five cubes;
• wine bottle cork;
• two wires;
• two tees with winding rings;
• steel balls that can be removed from the bearing.

The process of making a homemade syringe popper with your own hands:

Let's get down to the task at hand - making a popper. We disassemble the pharmaceutical syringe and cut off unnecessary parts (we cut the nose, the stem into pieces and use only the middle). The actions can be seen in the photographs.

Cylinders are cut out of a wine cork, which are the size of the syringe and will be tightly inserted inside. To do this, use a knife to cut off excess pieces in a circle until the required size is obtained. To avoid mistakes, you can draw the cut location with a ballpoint pen.

Then we push a small cylinder of cork into the syringe to the very end, carefully pierce a hole in it for the wire. Next we send the middle part from the cut rod. We also make holes for the wires in the remaining cylinder, as shown in the photo.

We pour steel balls inside the syringe and push the stopper. We twist the free ends of the two wires and make a ring for attaching the fishing line. We also bend the remaining free ends of the wires and create rings for attaching hooks.

All that remains is to attach the tees with winding rings and a homemade popper - the syringe rattle is ready. You can go to the river and try to catch predatory pike, which loves to attack such baits.

Homemade syringe popper is ready

All that remains is to add that when making a homemade popper from a syringe with your own hands, you can add something of your own and modify the homemade product, which will certainly lead to an improvement in its quality and catchability. You can add red hairs to the tees, you can also put chopped multi-colored foil inside, or you can come up with your own original equipment for this bait, or an original color.

Making a popper is quite an exciting and budget-friendly activity.

Making a popper with your own hands is not difficult. This activity is quite exciting and budget-friendly. The cost of poppers in stores averages 250-300 rubles. per piece. But these are not eternal attachments. They can be lost due to breaks and snags, they are damaged by the teeth of predators, etc. And you can’t get by with just one popper in your arsenal. Today the fish grabs the yellow popper, tomorrow it will like the green one with a red belly, and two days later it will chase the silver bait.

In order to make a popper with your own hands, you will need tools: pliers, pliers, a hacksaw for metal, a drill or screwdriver with drills with a diameter of 1 mm to 2 mm (the longer the drills, the better), a knife, zero-grade and coarse sandpaper, with a grain size of P80 to P120, foam rubber, a brush (from children's paints), drying oil (or any other impregnation for wood), acrylic paint (although watercolor can also be used) and the material itself from which we will make the popper. The ideal raw material for making a popper would be balsa (wood used in aircraft modeling). But it's not so easy to find. I use regular pine, since you can buy 30x20 or 20x40 pine beams at any hardware store. You will also need stainless steel wire with a diameter of up to 1 mm. Such wire can be found through dentists (used in prosthetics). I didn't find this in stores. But string No. 2 from the guitar fit very well. Now let's go in order.

DIY popper making process

1. Let's make a popper. First, let's decide on the size of the popper. For catching perch, a length of 5-6 cm is sufficient, for pike - 7-8 cm, for large predators, for example for asp - 10 - 11 cm. Having decided on the size, we saw off a block of the required length and draw with a pencil the silhouette of the future popper.

We saw off along the line with a hacksaw, not necessarily very accurately, because the unevenness will be smoothed out later with sandpaper. From the bottom of the future popper we make a longitudinal cut in the center, as in the figure below. The cutting depth is to the middle of the resulting workpiece. The main thing is to get a straight line from the center of the front end of the workpiece to the center of the rear end of the workpiece. We make the cut with a hacksaw, as we get an even cut 1mm wide.

After that, we take a knife (I bought a cheap shoe knife for this) and begin to cut off the corners of the workpiece, giving it a rounded look. We make the front (cut obliquely) end thicker, gradually narrowing towards the tail. The cut we made earlier serves as a beacon by which we control the symmetry of the future popper. The result should be a semi-finished product like this.

Now we take coarse sandpaper and give the product smooth shapes.

Now we make a notch in the front end. I bought a special set for this for 90 rubles. The picture shows both the resulting recess and the set itself. But if you don’t have such a set at hand, then an ordinary round file will do, with which you can make a recess across the popper in the nose.

2. Let's start making the wire frame. For this, it is best to use orthodontic stainless wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm or a guitar string No. 2. The frame looks like this.

But for my first popper I used a thin wire frame. I just didn’t find the wire I needed, and I really wanted to do it quickly. I saw this cable in a hardware store:

I unraveled the cable into several threads approximately 0.8mm thick and about 25cm long. (I made the popper 10 cm in size. So I cut off the cable with wire cutters, taking into account two lengths of the popper plus 5 cm as a reserve.) At one end I made a loop and coated the twisted end with glue.

When the glue had dried, I coated the twisted part again, only this time with super glue, and without waiting for the glue to dry, I inserted it into the cut, as in the picture.

The cable is not very convenient for the frame, because... too springy and doesn't hold the desired shape when laying. To fix it, I inserted a piece of lead into the cut at the base of the cable loop. I squeezed the lead with pliers, then cut off a small piece with scissors. The main thing is that the thickness of the inserted piece of lead is about 1mm. If it is thicker, then when inserted into the cut it will simply split the popper in half lengthwise. And if it is thinner, it simply will not lock into the cut and will jump out. Although for the popper I would still use a wooden wedge rather than lead, because... popper is a surface attachment, and overweight she doesn't need it. The end result should look like the picture below. An inserted piece of lead holds the loop in position.

Then we lay the cable in the cut to the back.

We make a loop at the end of the back of the popper, grease it with super glue and insert it into the cut. On top, as in the front part, we insert a piece of lead to secure the rear loop.

Now we approximately divide the length of the popper into three parts, and make a loop somewhere at the level of the end of the first third from the head.

We bite off the excess end of the cable, lubricate the cable with glue and place it in the cut. You can tamp the cable into the cut with a knife or any other tool of suitable thickness. To fix the loop, insert a piece of lead again. Next, fill the cut with PVA glue mixed with sawdust. If the emptiness of the cut allows, you can insert pieces of wood left after planing the workpiece into it.

Now we leave the workpiece for a while. After the glue has dried, we treat the future popper with sandpaper (zero sandpaper) and impregnate it with a protective compound. I didn’t spend much money and bought regular drying oil for this. I poured some drying oil into a plastic container and let the popper blank float in it for a day, turning it over periodically. Then I hung it to dry on the balcony. The drying process took me about 2-3 days. Only after complete drying can you start painting, having first gone over the popper again with sandpaper, because after impregnation the wood becomes a little frayed.

3. Painting. Now many fishermen are divided into two camps. Those who believe that color is important for fish and those who believe that color is not particularly important. I myself am inclined to believe that beautiful coloring is more important from an aesthetic point of view. For fish, the size and action of the bait itself are of greater importance. Although in the dark and light hours of the day the overall tone of the nozzle probably has its own meaning. Therefore, I paint the fish to my taste, but for surface baits (poppers, some wobblers and walkers) I use two types of belly colors - light and dark. And for deep-sea ones, I use the same gradation (dark and light) - only for the backs.

To paint the popper I use acrylic enamel

To tint enamel I use universal tinting paste

To draw the eyes of the fish, I use watercolors and black ink.

To paint our workpiece we will use a foam sponge. You can invent the color and design yourself or copy it from store poppers, the Internet, etc. I'm not an artist and I won't teach you how to paint. Let me just say that I applied one color and waited for the layer of paint to dry. Then I applied a second layer (if there was such a need), waited for it to dry and moved on to applying a different color. On final stage I painted white circles in place of the eyes with watercolor paint, waited for the paint to dry (very quickly) and painted black dots (pupils) on the white circles. As a result, our workpiece began to look like this.

I painted some blanks even easier. I dipped the whole fish into a can of paint and hung it on a nail to drain off the excess and then dry it over a rag. But for the first hour I controlled and periodically removed excess paint from the loops, especially the lower ones. the excess paint is collected on the bottom loop.

4. After complete drying, you can proceed to varnishing our popper. In principle, you can use any varnish. But I prefer yacht varnish; it is more reliable and adheres well to the workpiece.

We do the varnishing ourselves in a simple way. Dip the popper into a jar of varnish and hang it by the head loop on a nail. The main thing is not to forget to remove drops of varnish from the loops. After complete drying, repeat the procedure. After the first and second layers, I go over the workpiece with sandpaper (zero sand, of course) to smooth out the remaining roughness. Then I coat it with varnish a couple more times. Three or four layers of varnish are enough. And our fish is almost ready.

All that remains is to hang the winding rings with tees on the tail and bottom loop of the popper.

Vladislav Grushko

If you have built castles in the air, this does not mean that your work was in vain: this is exactly what real castles should look like. All that remains is to lay a foundation for them.

(Henry Thoreau)

Is it possible make a catchy bait with your own hands at home with minimal material costs and minimal woodworking skills? The answer is simple - you can! Using this homemade popper I managed to “persuad” predators of four species, thereby catching the Rapala Skitter Pop and more.

Dear spinning friends, we will make and assemble this truly catchy bait with our own hands, called a popper, from scratch. Its original purpose, first of all, is to catch perch, since the total size of the popper will not exceed 7 cm. Well, I think pike and other fish will also not refuse to taste it.

Stage 1

First, we need a branch of a “living” tree (preferably without knots). Fresh wood is easier to process than dry wood, which is why it is preferable. Any of the available ones will do - birch, linden, walnut or, like mine, maple (I just couldn’t find anything else at that time). We choose a tree with the smallest core diameter. Birch, for example, is a very sticky tree, and therefore it is not afraid of pike teeth, and such a popper will fly far. Linden, on the contrary, is very soft and pliable, it is much easier to process. Choose for yourself. We immediately estimate by eye or using a ruler what diameter we would like our popper to be (mine’s diameter is 1.6 cm). We make a choice in favor of the appropriate size - and go ahead.

We saw off, cut off all the leaves, branches, twigs we don’t need using a penknife or some other cutting object. The main advantage of working with a stick like this is that the shape of the future popper is almost ready, we just need to adjust it a little. And it’s very convenient to hold a piece of wood at one end, and at the same time plan out your “Pinocchio” from the other.

Stage 2

We clean the tree - remove the bark from it. Then, again by eye (as I do) or using a protractor, using a hacksaw we saw off the excess part of the wood at an angle of 45 degrees - this will be the head of our popper. If you can’t do it symmetrically, straighten the bevel with sandpaper. Next, using a small wood chisel (a penknife is also suitable), we make a small notch in the front part of the future popper (you can do this with a drill), the so-called “spitter”, which our popper will directly use to attract different fish. A more concave hole will give us a loud and “juicy” “gurgle”.

Having measured the length that suits us, without cutting off the other end of the branch (for convenience), we sharpen the tail part of the popper to the core, like a pencil. Now you can cut off the extra piece of wood. The length of my popper, from edge to edge, turned out to be 5 cm. The place where the popper began to narrow began after 3.3 cm, counting from the head. Now you can “sand” the popper blank with sandpaper with a grain size of 0.1 mm.

Stage 3

Now we need hard stainless wire. The diameter of the one I used is 0.8 mm (this thickness will be enough). And now the second advantage of working with knots as a material. Along its core (along), without any drills, drills or cuts, very easily and naturally, starting from the head of the workpiece, we pierce the popper through with wire. When the wood is fresh and the steel rod is fairly even, it won’t be too difficult to do everything very carefully and accurately.

At the head of the bait we make a small ring to connect to the leash. Applying a slightly metal rod to the tail, we hide the entwined, fixing turns of wire in the body of the popper. Leave the other end of the wire (no shorter than 3.5 cm) for now. Almost in the center of the popper (or rather, a little closer to the head), on its lower side, we pierce it again with another piece of steel rod, but we just do it even more carefully, since there is no core here and this will definitely be difficult to do.

Even if you didn’t get everything right the first time, that’s okay. Remove the wire and try again. We make a ring for the tee in the popper’s belly, and hide the excess in the body. On the back, we bend a small bracket from a protruding rod of wire (no larger than 1 cm in size) with round nose pliers and drive the end into the wood with a small hammer so that it is not noticeable.

Stage 4

Now, so that our popper is completely dry from the remaining juice (moisture), depending on the season, place it on the balcony or near the radiator (where it is warm and dry). After our popper is completely dry, we proceed to the next stage. Let's drop a drop of waterproof glue, which is good for both metal and wood, into all the junctions of the popper with the wire. This way, all the joints of the popper will be strong, water will not leak through and no predatory fish will tear out the wire. Leave to dry. After drying, so that our popper does not absorb moisture, we need to treat it. This can be done using nitro paints, alkyd varnish, or much easier and cheaper - drying oil. If you find it difficult to find this product, I suggest sunflower oil. You just need to heat it up a little (you can do it in a frying pan) and soak our popper thoroughly in it (5 minutes is enough). Once you remove the popper, it will darken. After one minute, instantly absorbing the remaining oil, the popper will become dry and non-greasy to the touch.

Stage 5

Next you can start painting the bait. I paint my poppers with quick drying fluorescent fishing varnish. This really saves a lot of time. After impregnating our popper with oil, it is no longer afraid of being chewed by pike teeth and you can easily, even while fishing, tint it with such fishing varnish. Regarding the color of the popper, I will say that the fish, due to the fact that the popper is located above it, cannot distinguish it. For her it is something dark, gurgling and very tasty. I painted my popper bright yellow and orange. They are very visible on the water and I just really like them. After several layers of varnish, the surface of the popper begins to resemble a soft eraser to the touch. Make a choice in favor of those colors that you like, and the fish will definitely bite, the main thing is not to doubt the color. Anyone who wants can draw or glue eyes on the popper to make it look more like a fish, personally I don’t do this.

Stage 6

The next step is to make the propeller for the popper. Most poppers do not have it, but I decided to increase the impact on predatory fish and attached a propeller. To do this, we need a sheet of hard metal about 0.4 mm thick, the main thing is that it is not too soft and does not have to be adjusted after each pike bite. It could be brass, copper, aluminum, galvanized or polymer-coated steel, like mine. Using a marker, draw the outlines of the future blades (not too thin - they will be deformed, not too wide - they will make it difficult for the popper to move). Using large and sharp stationery scissors (if you have metal scissors, that’s good)

cut out the propeller blank. Use a small nail or awl to make a hole for the wire, placing a wooden block under the screw. The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the steel rod for easy rotation of the propeller. Then smooth out all roughness with a file. Bend the blades in opposite directions so that they can rotate. The length of the propeller is 2.8 cm. This value was chosen for a reason, because if the propeller were shorter, the turbulent flows behind the popper would not allow its free rotation. A longer one, with such proportions, is also undesirable - the mass will increase (it will sink) or it may simply scare away the fish.

Stage 7

Now we need two beads or seed beads, but not too small. You can also use metal balls; of course, no pike can bite through them, but due to their weight they can pull the popper under the water, and we initially intended to design a floating one. Therefore, let’s focus on decorative beads. We string the first bead onto the part of the wire sticking out from behind, thanks to which we put a screw on our propeller, then another bead. We make a fastening ring for the threesome, wrap it around it,

wire in a spiral, bite off the excess end. The distance from the curled wire to the end of the popper itself was 1 cm. Longer is worse, this part may alert the fish, the propeller will not work well, and the same buoyancy may change. In short, it is also not advisable, because the propeller will be squeezed between the beads and will not rotate at all. The length from the beginning of the popper bevel to the end of the ring is 6.5 cm. I put a piece of thermophyte tube on the wound wire near the fastening ring and, holding it a little over the lighter, fixed it tightly (the thermofit shrinks in size by half when it is heated). As an alternative, a piece of cambric can serve. I do this so that the bead does not break on the hard wire; I hide unnecessary unwanted elements from the eyes of fish and simply for aesthetic reasons. This step is optional.

Stage 8

For this step I use colored rooster feathers as the fly. You can also use all kinds of cambrics, twisters, etc., but my experience shows that feathers are best option. I consider this stage mandatory. Some fish, especially perch, grab the popper exclusively by the fly; it irritates them very much. The tee must be taken very sharp and of high quality, because when fishing with surface baits there are many gatherings. There is no need to skimp on this element. Very good threesomes from Owner.

The final stage of making a popper is to attach the three-pieces using winding rings to the popper and the catchy bait is ready. The total weight of the popper was 7 grams.

This popper can be fished as a torpedo-type bait, just by rotating the handle of the reel, and like a regular popper, reviving it with the movements of the spinning rod. This kind of popper can rightfully be called an active bait. Due to the propeller and the fly at the back, it will not behave like a walker, yawing from side to side.

Have a nice catch!