Automatic adjustment of pH in the solution. How to regulate and control the pH level in pool water? Some pH values

Some pH values

Solution acidity (pH) in hydroponics

Why is pH important?

pH check

pH adjustment

Substance pH

Why pH is important

pH check

pH adjustment

Contistabil+

06.11.201927.05.2017

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There are several chemicals used by hobby gardeners to pH adjustment. Probably the most popular are phosphoric acid (to lower pH) and potassium hydroxide (to raise pH). Both of these chemicals are relatively safe, although they can cause burns, and should never come into contact with the eyes.

More often, stores specializing in hydroponics sell pH regulators, which are diluted to a level that is reasonably safe and convenient. Concentrated regulators may cause big changes pH, and can make pH adjustment very frustrating.

Several other chemicals can be used to adjust the pH of hydroponic nutrient solutions. Nitric and sulfuric acids can be used to lower pH, but they are much more dangerous than phosphoric acid. Food grade citric acid is sometimes used in organic gardening to lower pH.

If the pH needs to be adjusted, add an appropriate regulator. Use small amounts of pH adjuster until you become comfortable with the process. Recheck the pH and repeat the above steps until the pH level reaches the desired value.

Each system changes pH in different proportions depending on a variety of factors. Things like the type of substrate used, the weather, the type of plant, and even the age of the plant all affect pH changes.

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The permissible pH level in pool water is 7.0 - 7.6, ideally the optimal value is 7.2 - 7.4.

When the pH level increases from the permissible values, limescale deposits occur, and the water in the pool can cause irritation of the mucous membranes and skin. If the pH value is low, the metal parts of the pool are at risk of corrosion, and other materials and seams are at risk of destruction. It is very important to know that when maintaining a pH value of 7.0, the effectiveness of chlorine-based preparations (sodium hypochlorite, Contichlor-aqua) in disinfecting pool water is 3 times higher than at a pH value of 8.0.

The first step when filling the pool with water is to first measure the pH level (this can be done using indicator strips or a tester), and then adjust pH level(using special chemistry for swimming pools Contistabil- and Contistabil+). Important role The quality of water in the pool is affected by calcium and magnesium salts, the so-called water hardness. When the pH level of water in a pool with a high content of calcium and magnesium salts, that is, with high carbonate hardness, increases, the water in the pool first begins to become cloudy and over time the color of the water becomes milky whitish, after which calcium carbonate settles on the bottom and walls of the pool and forms deposit at the water's edge. On the side of the pool and at the water's edge, this deposit can be removed using Clean-Bass - waterline cleaner from limescale. Calcium and magnesium carbonate deposits can also be observed in the filter itself, which inevitably leads to poor quality water filtration. Monitoring and regulation of pH levels in pool water with high hardness should be carried out at least once a day.

To regulate the pH level in pool water required:

1. After the water becomes cloudy, turn off the pump.

2. Wait several hours for sediment to settle to the bottom (do not shake or stir the water).

3. Remove plaque from the walls of the pool and sediment using a bottom cleaner into the sewer system.

Then start using means for regulating the pH level Contistabil- or Contistabil+.

Lower pH level

Contistabil-

Means Contistabil- dosed into water using an automatic dosing station or manually. To maintain the optimal pH level of the pool water (7.0 - 7.4), it is necessary to measure the pH level using a tester and, if necessary, adjust it. A pH value above 7.6 should be reduced to 7.2 by adding a product. For manual dosing, it is recommended to pre-dissolve granules of the drug Contistabil- in water in a separate container, reducing the initial concentration of the product by 3 - 5 times, add the resulting solution in portions directly to the pool water near the point of supply (triska) or in several places simultaneously (but not in front of the filters) while the circulation pump is operating away from metal details. Means Contistabil - in liquid form It cannot be pre-diluted, so the dosed amount must be divided into several portions and, in the interval between them, the pH value must be measured using a tester to avoid its level dropping too much. Recommended dosage of the product Contistabil- are indicated in the table. The pH value of the water must be constantly maintained within 7.0 - 7.4 and monitored every 2 - 3 hours (during the first 3 days of operation of the pool), then at least once a day.

Main modes of application:

* – hard water, as well as intensive use of the pool, require increasing the concentration and / or frequency of adding the product

Raising pH levels

Means Contistabil+ dosed into water using an automatic dosing station or manually. To maintain the optimal pH level of the pool water (7.0 - 7.4), it is necessary to measure the pH level using a tester and, if necessary, adjust it. A pH value below 6.8 should be raised to 7.2 by adding a product. For manual dosing, it is recommended to pre-dissolve the drug Contistabil+ in water in a separate container, reducing the initial concentration of the product by 3 - 5 times, add the resulting solution in portions directly to the pool water near the point of supply (triska) or in several places simultaneously (but not in front of the filters) while the circulation pump is running. Recommended dosages of the product are shown in the table. The pH value of the water must be constantly maintained within 7.0 - 7.4 and monitored every 2 - 3 hours (during the first 3 days of operation of the pool), then at least once a day.

Dosage of Contistabil+	Pool volume:
Dosage of Contistabil+	10 m 3	20 m 3	40 m 3	60 m 3	80 m 3	100 m 3
Liquid:
amount of product (ml) added to water to reduce the pH value by 0.1
Powder:
amount of product (g) added to water to reduce the pH value by 0.1

* – hard water, as well as intensive use of the pool, require increasing the concentration and / or frequency of adding the product.

Perhaps one of the most overlooked aspects of gardening, pH is very important in both hydroponic, organic, and conventional soil gardening. pH is measured on a scale from 1 to 14, with a pH value of 7 considered neutral. Acids have values below 7, and alkalis (bases) have values above.
This article deals with the pH of hydroponic gardening and nutrient availability at different pH levels in a hydroponic substrate. Organic and soil gardening have different levels so the following diagram does not apply to them.

Technically, the term pH refers to the potential hydrogen - hydroxyl ion contained in a solution. Solutions are ionized into positive and negative ions. If a solution has more hydrogen (positive) ions than hydroxyl (negative) ions, then it is an acid (1-6.9 on the pH scale). Conversely, if a solution has more hydroxyl ions than hydrogen ions, the solution is an alkali (or base), with a range of 7.1-14 on the pH scale.

Pure water has a balance of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl (O-) ions and - therefore has a neutral pH (pH 7). When water is less pure, it may have a pH either higher or lower than 7.

The pH scale is logarithmic, meaning that each unit of change equals a tenfold change in the concentration of hydrogen/hydroxyl ions. In other words, a solution with pH 6 is ten times more acidic than a solution with pH 7, and a solution with pH 5 will be ten times more acidic than a solution with pH 6 and a hundred times more acidic than a solution with pH 7. This is means that when you are adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution and you need to change the pH by two points (for example from 7.5 to 5.5) you must use ten times more pH corrector than if you only changed the pH by one point (from 7.5 to 6.5 ).

When the pH is not at the proper level, the plant will begin to lose its ability to absorb some of the essential elements needed for healthy growth. All plants have a specific pH level that produces optimal results (see chart 1 below). This pH level varies from plant to plant, but in general most plants prefer a slightly acidic growing environment (between 6.0-6.5), although most plants can still survive in an environment with a pH between 5.0 and 7.5.

When the pH rises above 6.5, some of the nutrients and trace elements begin to precipitate out of solution and settle on the walls of the tank and plant tray. For example: Iron may be half precipitated at pH 7.3 and at pH 8 there will be virtually no iron left in the solution. For your plants to use nutrients, they must be dissolved in solution. Once nutrients have precipitated out of solution, your plants will no longer be able to absorb them and will suffer (or die). Some substances also leave solution when the pH decreases. Chart 2 (below) will show you what happens to the availability of certain nutrients at different pH levels.

When you're growing hydroponically, checking and adjusting pH is simple, but these procedures can be a little complicated when growing organically or in the ground. There are several ways to test the pH of the nutrient solution in your hydroponic system.

Paper test strips is probably the most inexpensive way to test the pH of a nutrient solution. These strips are impregnated with a pH-sensitive dye that changes color when the paper strip is dipped into a nutrient solution. Then compare the color of the paper strip with a color chart to determine the pH of the solution being tested. These test strips are inexpensive, but can sometimes be “hard to read” because the color differences can be subtle.

Most high-tech ways to test pH must use digital ones. These meters are available in a huge variety of sizes and prices. Most popular look digital pH meter for amateur gardening - digital “pen”. These pens are made by several different companies and are very comfortable and easy to use. You simply dip the electrode into the nutrient solution for a while and the pH value is displayed on the LCD display.

pH meters are very fast and accurate (when properly calibrated). They need proper care, otherwise they will stop working. The glass electrode bulb must be kept clean and moist at all times. pH meters are very sensitive voltmeters and are susceptible to problems with the electrode.

pH meters are slightly sensitive to temperature changes. Many of the pH meters sold on the market have Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC), which corrects the pH meter reading relative to temperature. On pH meters without temperature compensation, pH should be measured at the same time of day to minimize any temperature fluctuations.

pH meters usually need to be calibrated frequently because the meter can drift and to ensure accuracy, you should check the calibration frequently. The tip should be stored in electrode storage solution or buffer solution. Never allow the tip to dry out.

Because pH meters have a reputation for breaking for no reason, it's a good idea to have emergency pH testing backup (paper strips or liquid pH test kits) just in case.

There are several chemicals used by home gardeners to adjust pH. Probably the most popular are phosphoric acid (to lower pH) and potassium hydroxide (to raise pH). Both of these chemicals are relatively safe, although they can cause burns and should never come into contact with the eyes. More often, stores that specialize in hydroponics sell , which are diluted to a level that is reasonably safe and convenient. Concentrated regulators can cause large changes in pH, and can make pH adjustment very frustrating.
Several other chemicals can be used to adjust the pH of hydroponic nutrient solutions. Nitric and sulfuric acids can be used to lower pH, but they are much more dangerous than phosphoric acid. Food grade citric acid is sometimes used in organic gardening to lower pH.

Always add nutrients to the water before testing and adjusting the pH of your nutrient solution. Nutrients typically lower the pH of water due to chemical compensation. After adding nutrients and mixing the solution, check the pH using available measuring equipment. If the pH needs to be adjusted, add an appropriate regulator. Use small amounts of pH adjuster until you become comfortable with the process. Recheck the pH and repeat the above steps until the pH level reaches the desired value.

The pH of the nutrient solution will tend to rise as the plants use the nutrients. As a result, the pH must be checked periodically (and adjusted if necessary). To start, I suggest that you check the pH daily. Each system changes pH in different proportions depending on a variety of factors. The type of substrate used, the weather, the type of plant, and even the age of the plant all affect the change in pH.

Electrolyte in lead batteries<1.0

Gastric juice 1.0—2.0
Lemon juice 2.5±0.5
Lemonade Cola 2.5
Vinegar 2.9
Apple juice 3.5±1.0
Beer 4.5
Coffee 5.0
Fashionable shampoo 5.5
Tea 5.5
Acid rain< 5,6
Skin of a healthy person 6.5
Saliva 6.35—6.85
Milk 6.6-6.9
Pure water 7.0
Blood 7.36—7.44
Sea water 8.0
Soap (fat) for hands 9.0—10.0
Ammonia 11.5
Bleach (chlorine) 12.5
Soda solution 13.5

After the pool is filled with water, it is necessary to chemically treat the water.

First of all, we need a tester. Let's immediately eliminate the test strips. It’s not in vain that the manufacturer warns that with them “measuring the ph level becomes like child’s play.” Simple, like a child's game, and useful, like a child's game, since there is simply no accuracy. We will need a test kit that is capable of measuring pH and free chlorine content. “Phenol red” tablets are used to measure ph, and DPD1 tablets to measure chlorine. If the tester is capable of additionally measuring total alkalinity and combined chlorine well. And if there is a measurement of cyanuric acid, great. If not, no problem, we’ll get by. I will not repeat what is written in the instructions for the tester; there is nothing complicated in testing. Let me draw your attention to just one point. If you have already added chlorine to the pool and its concentration exceeds 10 g/m 3, then this causes DPD1 to “bleach” and it may seem that there is no chlorine. FAS-DPD is free from this drawback, but it is not sold in Russia. Therefore, carefully monitor the reaction when you throw DPD1 into the water. If color appears for a few seconds and then disappears, then the chlorine concentration in your pool is more than 10 g/m3. To determine the chlorine concentration, dilute the pool water, for example in a ratio of one to five, repeat the test, and then multiply the result by 5.

Measure ph. Ph less than 7.2 may cause eye irritation. Ph less than 6.8 can damage metal parts in the pool. Ph greater than 7.8 can cause calcium deposits. Manufacturers recommend maintaining a pH level of 7.4, stating that at higher pH levels, chlorine loses its disinfecting ability. This is true, but in water that does not contain a stabilizer. In the presence of a stabilizer, the situation changes and chlorine retains its disinfecting ability to higher pH values. But do not exceed the Ph level above 7.6.

In most pools, the pH tends to increase over time. Pool aeration (hydromassage, fountains, active games) raises the pH level. But there are some pools in which the pH level decreases. In order to raise its level, you need to use “pH-plus”. You will need to raise the pH no more than once or twice a season, so you won’t spend a lot of money on it.

To lower the pH, use the “ph-minus” preparation. It is quite possible that having risen to 7.6-7.8 ph will practically stop increasing.

The dosage is indicated on the ph+ and ph- preparations, but in fact the dosage greatly depends on the alkalinity of the water. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations, monitoring the results. If you notice that the pH changes too much, I recommend raising the alkalinity by adding 90 g of regular baking soda (not household or washing) soda per cubic meter of water. This will reduce the consumption of ph-.

This article describes the pH of hydroponic gardening and nutrient availability at different pH levels in a hydroponic substrate. Organic and soil gardening have different levels so the following diagram does not apply to them.

Technically, the term pH refers to the potential hydrogen, a hydroxyl ion, contained in a solution. Solutions are ionized into positive and negative ions. If a solution has more hydrogen (positive) ions than hydroxyl (negative) ions, then it is an acid (1–6.9 on the pH scale). Conversely, if a solution has more hydroxyl ions than hydrogen ions, the solution is an alkali (or base), with a range of 7.1–14 on the pH scale.

Pure water has a balance of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl (O-) ions and – therefore has a neutral pH (pH 7). When water is less pure, it may have a pH either higher or lower than 7.

When the pH is not at the proper level, the plant will begin to lose its ability to absorb some of the essential elements needed for healthy growth. All plants have a specific pH level that produces optimal results (see chart 1 below). This pH level varies from plant to plant, but in general most plants prefer a slightly acidic growing environment (between 6.0–6.5), although most plants can still survive in an environment with a pH between 5.0 and 7.5.

Once nutrients have precipitated out of solution, your plants will no longer be able to absorb them and will suffer (or die). Some substances also leave solution when the pH decreases. Chart 2 (below) will show you what happens to the availability of certain nutrients at different pH levels.

PLEASE NOTE!!!:
This chart is for hydroponic gardening only and is not suitable for organic or soil gardening.

Liquid pH test kits is probably the most popular way for the amateur gardener to test pH. These liquid test kits work by adding a few drops of a pH-sensitive dye to a small amount of nutrient solution, and then comparing the color of the final liquid to a color chart. Liquid tests are a little more expensive than paper test strips, but they work very well and are usually easier to “read” than paper test strips.

Most high-tech ways to test pH are: digital measuring instruments. These meters are available in a huge variety of sizes and prices. The most popular type of digital pH meter for hobby gardening is digital pens. These pens are made by several different companies and are very comfortable and easy to use. You simply dip the electrode into the nutrient solution for a while and the pH value is displayed on the LCD display.

Because pH meters have a reputation for breaking for no reason, it's a good idea to have emergency pH testing backup (paper strips or liquid pH test kits) just in case.

Dosage Contistabil-

Pool volume:

Dosage Contistabil-

100 m 3

Granules:

More often, hydroponics stores sell pH adjusters that are diluted to a level that is reasonably safe and convenient. Concentrated regulators can cause large changes in pH, and can make pH adjustment very frustrating.

The pH of the nutrient solution will tend to rise as the plants use the nutrients. As a result, the pH must be checked periodically (and adjusted if necessary). To start, I suggest that you check the pH daily. Each system changes the pH in different proportions depending on a variety of factors: the type of substrate used, weather, plant species and age; everything is affected by pH changes.